Best things to do at Etosha National Park, Namibia

​By Roxanne Reid
Etosha National Park in northern Namibia is one of my favourite places for a wildlife safari. The huge white salt flats of Etosha Pan and the wide open spaces make it very different to the bushveld of many other national parks in southern Africa. Fairly easy to spot game too. Here’s my pick of the best things to do at Etosha.

Etosha is massive, spanning over 22 700 square kilometres (that’s nearly three-quarters the size of Belgium). And it’s packed with almost 115 species of mammals, including four of the Big Five. There are also around 340 species of birds. All this makes for a very special safari experience. Here are ways to make the most of it.

1. Join a guided game drive

A guided sunset or night drive is a chance to see nocturnal creatures like owls

If you’re staying at Dolomite, Okaukuejo, Halali, Namutoni or Onkoshi camps, you can join a guided drive in park vehicles early in the morning and/or late in the afternoon for an extra fee. Night drives are also possible. These guided drives are a good way to see the park from a different point of view, and a chance for the guides to share their knowledge about what you’re seeing. They’re ideal if it’s your first time in Etosha. Plus, if you’ve rented a regular car for your trip, these open game vehicles give you a higher vantage point for better views.

If you’re on a budget and can only do one guided drive, I’d recommend the late afternoon one. Why? Well, you get to see the sunset across the Etosha landscape. Also, it usually wraps up well after dark, when you’re not allowed to be driving around in your own vehicle, so it’s an opportunity to catch sight of nocturnal animals like hyena, small-spotted genet, serval, African wild cat, aardwolf, and black rhino – even lion and leopard.

2. Drive yourself around to see wildlife

Big cats like leopard are always a thrill to see

The real fun at Etosha is getting out there and finding some of its wildlife and stunning landscapes for yourself. I love self-driving, and it seems like lots of other visitors do too – you’ll also see loads of people driving around in rented sedans, 4x4s, and campers. If it’s your first time, you’ll definitely want to spot the big guys like elephants, lions, rhinos, leopards and cheetahs. (You won’t find buffalo, wild dogs, hippo, or crocodiles in Etosha though.)

But don’t skip over the smaller creatures like banded mongooses, monitor lizards or honey badgers, which are all fascinating to watch. On the way to Klein Namutoni waterhole, look out for the tiny Damara dik-dik, which is Namibia’s smallest antelope, and usually occurs in pairs. At the other end of the scale, look for the largest antelope, the eland, at waterholes like Chudob and Kalkheuwel.

For the best chance of spotting predators like lions and leopards, head out early in the morning or just before sunset. Mid-morning is prime time for animals like elephant, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, and antelope coming to drink at the waterholes, especially in the dry season.

Pro tip: take it slow (around 30km/h) so you can really scan the surroundings for wildlife; you don’t want to miss anything.

3. Go bird-watching

If you're a keen birder, you'll love spotting some of the raptors in Etosha

Etosha’s not just about big mammals; it’s a wonderland for bird lovers too. With over 340 bird species, there’s a lot to catch your eye while on your drives around the park. Among my favourites are the massive flamingo colonies that breed here. When there’s water, you can spot them on Etosha Pan or at Fischer’s Pan near Namutoni along with a bunch of other water birds like pelicans, avocets, African spoonbills, black-winged stilts, teals and ducks.

There are loads of raptors like lappet-faced and white-headed vultures, secretary birds, sparrowhawks, and tawny and martial eagles. If you’re into big birds, keep an eye out for kori bustards strutting across the veld too. Smaller treasures include black-collared barbets, puffbacks, violet woodhoopoes, cuckoos, and prinias. Take a walk around the camps and listen for their calls to help you find some of the small birds. And don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled for owls hanging around the camps at night.

4. See the vast Etosha Pan

The wide, flat Etosha Salt Pan

You can’t visit Etosha National Park and not spot the massive Etosha Pan, which is 120km long and up to 50km wide in places. Most of the time, it’s just a dry, white salt flat, but when it rains heavily, it gets covered by a thin layer of water and looks like a giant lake. Even when it’s dry, the mirage effect can trick you into thinking there’s water when there actually isn’t.

Onkoshi camp is right on the edge of the pan, so you get the best views of the wide-open, empty landscape. But if you’re not one of the lucky guests overnighting there, don’t worry. You’ll still get plenty of chances to see the pan on your game drives. Waterholes like Ondongab, Sueda (which is too salty for most animals, but a great spot for views), Salvadora, and Okerfontein all offer views of the pan. Or head to Etosha Lookout north of the main road between Okaukuejo and Namutoni (near Nuamses) where you can drive right out onto the pan. Quick heads-up, though: some people think you can get out of your car for a selfie, but you’re not allowed out of your vehicle here.

5. Stop at Etosha’s waterholes

Dried white mud on elephants at Nebrownii makes them look like stone statues

When you’re out on your game drives, make sure to stop at waterholes and just chill for a bit – you never know what might show up and how the animals will interact. For the best photos, aim for early morning or late afternoon, when the light is golden and predators are more active. Mid-morning is also a good shout because the animals are usually thirsty and will head straight for the water, especially in the dry season (May to October). In the wet season (November to April), the park is lush and green, and there’s water pretty much everywhere, so animals don’t feel the rush to hit the waterholes as much.

Check out this handy guide to 12 of the top waterholes at Etosha, plus another ten or so we’ve found that offer some killer sightings.

6. Hang out at Okaukuejo’s waterhole

Watch animals from the comfort of a bench at Okaukuejo waterhole

Okaukuejo camp’s floodlit waterhole is probably the best-known spot in Etosha, even for folks who haven’t seen it in real life but might have caught it on the webcam (though let’s be real, that thing’s often down). There’s a thatch-roofed viewing platform with some tiered seats for a great view. You’ll also find a bunch of benches in a semi-circle behind a rock wall around the waterhole. There are low electric fences to keep the animals on their side without messing with your view or photos.

Over the years, we’ve seen everything from lions and hyenas to elephants, zebras, giraffes, and all sorts of antelope. You might even get lucky and spot a black rhino coming to drink after dark. And if you’re super eager, there’s nothing stopping you from hanging out there all night – except maybe the chilly winter air. One time, we ditched the game drive and spent the whole day at this waterhole because a bunch of lions had made a kill and were scoffing and chilling under a tree on the left.

7. Catch sunset and more at Halali’s waterhole

A herd of elephants drinking at Moringa waterhole, Halali

Halali camp’s floodlit Moringa waterhole is the spot for sunset views, but don’t head off right after the sun dips below the horizon. Stick around, and you’ll catch the beguiling call of hundreds of double-banded sandgrouse as they come in for a drink. If you’re lucky and patient, you might even spot a black rhino, leopard or spotted hyena at dusk or once it’s full-on dark. During the day, you’ll probably see elephants, zebras, and all kinds of antelope coming to drink.

One of my favorite things about camping at Halali is how easy it is to pop by the waterhole multiple times a day. Sometimes while you’re chilling at the campsite, you’ll hear hyenas whooping or elephants trumpeting, and that’s your cue to dash out for another epic Moringa sighting.
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8. See the old German fort at Namutoni

The German Fort at Namutoni was built in 1905

Take time to stroll around the outside and courtyard of Fort Namutoni in the far east of Etosha. The original fort was built as a rinderpest control station back in 1889, but it didn’t exactly have a peaceful time. The relationship between the German military and the local tribes was understandably tense and in 1904, 500 Owambos attacked and destroyed the fort. The fort you see today was rebuilt in 1905. Around 1950 it was declared a national monument and restoration started to turn what was by then a dilapidated building into one with tourism potential. It was ready to welcome visitors in 1957.

Don’t miss climbing up the tower at Namutoni Fort to see the sunset. The view from up there gives you a real sense of just how flat and wide the landscape is. Watching the sun dip below the horizon is special, especially as the sky erupts in splashes of orange and crimson. Even after the sun has disappeared, the eastern horizon glows with soft mauves and pinks.

Heads up that there’s also a floodlit waterhole here at Namutoni but to my mind it’s not nearly as magical as those at Okaukuejo or Halali.

9. Chill out at the pool

The swimming pools at Okaukuejo

All the camps, except for Olifanstrus campsite in the west, have a swimming pool. You’ll love getting back from a hot, dusty game drive and jumping straight into the pool to cool off. Chill by the pool for a bit and you’ll be reinvigorated when it’s time to head out again for some late-afternoon wildlife spotting.

10. Stay overnight in Etosha accommodation

Premier waterhole chalet, Okaukuejo - great views of the waterhole at a premium price

Some people like to stay just outside the park and travel in each day, but I prefer to be inside the park, especially to take advantage at night of the floodlit waterholes at Olifantsrus, Okaukuejo, Halali, and Namutoni, and to be immersed in the sounds of owls, spotted hyenas, blackbacked jackals and maybe even a lion roaring as you lie in bed.

Onkoshi camp northwest of Namutoni lies at the edge of Etosha Pan

Etosha has a variety of accommodation options. There are two luxury, fully catered camps – Dolomite in the far west and Onkoshi in the far east. There’s no camping at these two camps, and no self-catering. If you have the budget, they are both good choices, with good game drives and waterholes not too far away. Also in the far west is Olifantsrus, the only camp that is exclusively for campers, with no chalets. There’s a nice double-volume hide over a waterhole at Olifantsrus. ​

Namutoni campsite

​Okaukuejo in the central region of the park closest to Andersson Gate offers both camping and chalets or rooms. It’s the site of a rewarding floodlit waterhole (see point 6). That said, it’s not my favourite Etosha campsite since there is little shade, especially in the dry season. Halali further east also has both chalets/rooms and camping, with a short walk from the campsite to the floodlit Moringa waterhole (see point 7). Namutoni, closest to Von Lindequist Gate in the east, has chalets, rooms, and campsites. The campsite is smaller than Okaukuejo’s or Halali’s, but has the advantage of some grass and shade. This is where you can see the German fort (see point 8).

Note that the chalets and rooms at Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni are not really equipped for self-catering. Some chalets and rooms may have a braai, but not all, so if that’s important to you I recommend you check when booking.

Bookings for all these camps is through Namibia Wildlife Resorts, email [email protected].

Best time to visit Etosha 

An endangered black rhino in the late afternoon sun

The dry season is hands down the best time for an Etosha safari, especially from May/June to September. Since it doesn’t rain much during these months, animals flock to the waterholes to drink, so just park off there and wait for the action to unfold. July and August can get super busy with tourists though, so expect a crowd.

Dry season temperatures are slightly cooler, especially in the winter months of May to August, with temperatures of 7-10 degrees Celsius in the early mornings and evenings, but warming nicely to around 26 degrees in the middle of the day.

The summer months of October to February/March are very hot in Etosha, with temperatures reaching into the high 30s. It’s also quite humid, given that these months are in the rainy season.

If you’re into bird-watching, the rainy season (from November to April) is the time for you. That’s because all the summer migrants show up around September/October. And if you’re lucky, you might even catch sight on Etosha Pan or Fischer’s Pan near Namutoni of flamingos that breed in the area.

You may also enjoy
Etosha National Park: the ultimate guide
Why Moringa is my favourite Etosha waterhole
Places to visit and things to do in Namibia: south & central
Places to visit and things to do in Namibia: the north

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