By Roxanne Reid
We’re sitting on our stoep in the middle of a wildlife area, watching mountain zebras and red hartebeest shuffle through the dust to drink at our own private waterhole. A black-backed jackal is calling in the distance as the sun sinks below the horizon and sets the clouds on fire. Read on to discover why you’ll love Afsaal Cottage in the Karoo National Park.
We’re sitting on our stoep in the middle of a wildlife area, watching mountain zebras and red hartebeest shuffle through the dust to drink at our own private waterhole. A black-backed jackal is calling in the distance as the sun sinks below the horizon and sets the clouds on fire. Read on to discover why you’ll love Afsaal Cottage in the Karoo National Park.
Perhaps my favourite things here at this off-the-beaten-track cottage are the wide-screen views from the stoep and that once the main rest camp gates close, you have the entire landscape and animals all to yourself, not a single other person in sight. The cottage is rustic rather than luxurious, but it’s special to be out in nature on our own while a procession of zebra, hartebeest, springbok, and gemsbok slake their Karoo thirst at the waterhole. And in the absence of any light pollution nearby, it’s a thrill on a clear night to drink in the sight of a dark sky dazzled with a gazillion stars.
Mountain zebras at our waterhole; note how close it is to the braai unit (bottom right)
See how close your private waterhole is to Afsaal Cottage
So where and what exactly is this magical place? Afsaal is an old shepherd’s hut along the Afsaal Loop on the Nuweveld 4x4 route in the Karoo National Park near Beaufort West, South Africa. It’s about 35km north-west of the main rest camp and accessible only to those in a 4x4 or high-clearance vehicle. It was opened in 2010 after SANParks renovated and upgraded it into rustic Karoo-style accommodation. It sleeps two adults and two kids. Although space inside would be tight once the folding stretcher beds are up for the kids, it’s just perfect for the two of us.
Afsaal Cottage showing the stone perimeter wall and the viewing deck to the left
This might be my new favourite Karoo National Park accommodation, even though I’ve always loved the Cape Dutch-style cottages in the main rest camp. But here, you can keep an eye on the waterhole from the comfort of your stoep and that beats even the glorious mountain views from the main camp’s cottages. I’m too short to see over the low perimeter wall while sitting, but standing near the braai unit or climbing the wooden ladder to the elevated viewing deck were both super options to watch the animals come to drink.
Viewing deck up a wooden ladder for great views of the waterhole and stars
Game drives from Afsaal Cottage
After our first love-struck night at Afsaal, the next morning made clear the advantages of early access to the western side of the park. Although you’re here on your own, you still need to adhere to the normal camp gate times – i.e. April to September 7:00-18:00 and October to March 6:00-19:00. But this gave us a head-start on visitors staying in the main rest camp, who take an hour or more to get here.
After our first love-struck night at Afsaal, the next morning made clear the advantages of early access to the western side of the park. Although you’re here on your own, you still need to adhere to the normal camp gate times – i.e. April to September 7:00-18:00 and October to March 6:00-19:00. But this gave us a head-start on visitors staying in the main rest camp, who take an hour or more to get here.
Part of a large herd of eland making their way to a waterhole
Some of the sightings we had to ourselves were a large herd of eland approaching a waterhole, three mature kudu bulls keeping a wary eye on us as they browsed, mountain zebras having an early morning frolic while a still-fluffy foal suckled, as well as tracks of two of the Big Five. We did see both animals a bit later. The one I shan’t mention, the other was a lioness under a thorn tree, though by then the magic of the golden hour had passed and we had to share the sighting with a sprinkling of other vehicles. After a while, she got up and appeared very interested in some springbok not far away, but didn't hunt.
A lioness we saw on a drive from Afsaal Cottage
From Afsaal, you have quick access to the 4x4 routes – De Hoek Loop, Nuweveld Loop, Kookfontein Loop, and Sandrivier Loop. For more about the conditions you can expect on these tracks, see the ‘tips for your visit’ section below. You can also easily get to the western leg of the Potlekkertjie Loop (a graded gravel road suitable for normal sedan vehicles), where a stop at Doornhoek picnic site for coffee or a packed breakfast is a pleasant way to take a break from sitting in the car.
Doornhoek picnic site on the Potlekkertjie Loop makes a nice pitstop
After your game drives, it’s a thrill to get back to the serenity of Afsaal for another night of Karoo enchantment. You’ll be as sad to leave the peace and solitude as we were. It rained on our last day (always a celebration in the Karoo), but the wind dropped late afternoon for a perfect evening while we had dinner and it was clear again the next morning. We enjoyed a last breakfast in tranquillity and dragged ourselves away at the last possible moment at 10:00.
For other things to do in the wider park, see my post 17 things to do in the Karoo National Park.
For other things to do in the wider park, see my post 17 things to do in the Karoo National Park.
Afsaal gives wide-screen views of magnificent sunsets (and stars at night)
What you get at Afsaal Cottage
Inside
Inside
- sealed cement floor
- double bed
- 2 folding stretcher beds for kids
- 2 bedside tables
- potty (for those who’d rather not take a walk to the outhouse in the dark)
- waste bin
- gas cooker
- gas kettle
- large gas fridge/freezer
- 2 dining chairs
- large metal folding table
- small plastic folding table
- folding camping chairs to take outside
- wardrobe with extra blankets, towels, loo paper, candles, hot-water bottles
- hanging rack with hangers for clothes
- mirror
- three small ‘windows’ – basically insect screens with wooden shutters you can open from the inside
- 2 solar/battery lights and 2 paraffin lamps
- rietdak ceiling
Afsaal has a double bed
The interior is simple but it had everything we needed for a lovely stay
Outside
- water-flushing loo in a separate outhouse at the back (visible in the intro pic)
- small shower room with gas-heated hot water
- outdoor wash basin
- stoep housing an outdoor kitchen
- picnic table and benches on stoep
- cupboard with all the usual SANParks cookware, cutlery, crockery and glassware
- 3-burner gas cooker
- afdakkie to provide shade for the stoep and kitchen
- solar outdoor lighting
- big waste bin
- fire extinguisher
- braai unit (bring your own firewood)
- braai utensils
- viewing deck up a wooden ladder – definitely the best view of the waterhole and surrounding landscape
- cool little winch to pull your drinks and snacks up to the viewing deck
- bench on the viewing deck
- low stone wall to enclose the yard, and a fenced area around the loo and viewing deck
- floodlit waterhole in front; the switch is on your stoep
The stoep and outdoor kitchen (right)
What you don’t get at Afsaal
- It’s not accessible unless you have a 4x4 or high-clearance vehicle.
- There’s no Eskom power here and no plug points to charge phones or cameras (you can do that in your car on your game drives); all appliances and lights work on either solar or gas.
- The unit isn’t serviced during your stay, only before you arrive and after you leave – for obvious logistical reasons.
- There’s no cellphone reception at Afsaal; use the time to connect with nature.
Did you know a steenbok buries its poo to prevent predators detecting its presence?
A few tips for your visit to Afsaal
- Fuel up before entering the park as there’s no fuel station inside, but Beaufort West is just a hop, skip, and jump away.
- Remember to bring firewood with you to Afsaal. You can buy it at the shop at the main rest camp when you check in.
- Bring everything else (food, etc) you will need to self-cater, including drinking water.
- If you’re visiting in winter, bring lots of layers as it gets seriously cold.
- It can get very windy here, so I’d advise making a plan for an alternative way to cook your meal at Afsaal if the wind makes a braai impractical or dangerous. You definitely don’t want to start a veldfire.
- For the 4x4 trails, deflate your tyres enough to soften the ride (for your own comfort and the benefit of the track) but not so far that you’ll get sidewall punctures from sharp stones.
- The 4x4 routes are rough and stony in many places, but you’ll also cross a few sandy sections in dry riverbeds. There’s nothing hugely technical, but you do need to negotiate around rocks and dips that make high clearance essential so the going can be slow. Leave early to allow enough time to complete your chosen loop/s.
- Be self-sufficient: there’s no cell reception at the cottage and only very weak signal here and there along the 4x4 routes so carry water, snacks, first-aid kit, spare tyre, tools, and recovery equipment.
- If it has been raining, always check the accessibility of the 4x4 routes with reception when you book in. Some of them may be closed after rain.
- Use the park map you get when you check in, and note that some 4x4 routes are one-way only. Intersections are marked by numbers that relate to the GPS co-ordinates printed on your map so if you have a GPS device, make sure to take it along.
Rocky tweespoor 4x4 route in the Karoo National Park
How to book for Afsaal Cottage
You can book – a minimum of two nights – directly through the park’s reception, tel 023 415-2828 (not through SANParks central reservations). When you arrive, you’ll check in at reception at the main rest camp before driving to Afsaal Cottage. Make sure you arrive with enough time to get there by official gate closing time (April to September 18:00 and October to March 19:00); I’d recommend checking in by the latest at 16:30.
Embizweni Cottage – another remote experience
You can book – a minimum of two nights – directly through the park’s reception, tel 023 415-2828 (not through SANParks central reservations). When you arrive, you’ll check in at reception at the main rest camp before driving to Afsaal Cottage. Make sure you arrive with enough time to get there by official gate closing time (April to September 18:00 and October to March 19:00); I’d recommend checking in by the latest at 16:30.
Embizweni Cottage – another remote experience
Embizweni Cottage is a remote, off-the-grid experience for up to seven people
If you’re looking for a similarly remote experience for up to seven people, look at Embizweni Cottage further north on the De Hoek Loop off the Nuweveld 4x4 trail, about 45km from the main rest camp. The remoteness and alone-in-the-wilderness feel at what used to be a farmhouse are the same, but there’s something romantic about Afsaal that Embezwini just can’t compete with, although it is more well-appointed.
The large living room at Embizweni Cottage
It accommodates seven in two bedrooms: one has a double bed, the other has a double bed and a single sleeper couch. There’s also a double sleeper couch in the large living room, which has an indoor fireplace. Embezwini has solar lighting, bathroom with flushing loo, bath/shower with gas-heated hot water. There’s a full kitchen with the usual SANParks cookware, crockery, cutlery and glassware, as well as a four-plate gas stove with oven, and large gas fridge/freezer. There’s a large verandah with a built-in braai overlooking a small waterhole. There’s no cellphone reception.
As with Afsaal, you need to book a minimum of two nights at Embizweni, and must book through the park’s reception, tel 023 415-2828 (not SANParks central reservations). It’s recommended to check in at the main rest camp by 15:30 to allow enough time to drive the 4x4 route to Embizweni by official gate closing time (April to September 18:00 and October to March 19:00).
As with Afsaal, you need to book a minimum of two nights at Embizweni, and must book through the park’s reception, tel 023 415-2828 (not SANParks central reservations). It’s recommended to check in at the main rest camp by 15:30 to allow enough time to drive the 4x4 route to Embizweni by official gate closing time (April to September 18:00 and October to March 19:00).
Embizweni has a well-equipped farm kitchen
Best time to visit the Karoo National Park
The Karoo National Park is all about extremes, so the ‘best’ time really depends on what you can handle – scorching heat, freezing cold, or something more comfy in between. Summer (October to March) gets seriously hot, with temperatures cranking up to 40°C or more, though random thunderstorms can cool things down a bit. Rainfall is low overall, averaging around 200mm a year, mostly in those quick summer downpours.
Winter (especially June and July) flips the script – super cold, with nights dipping below zero and the odd sprinkle of snow dusting the high Nuweveld peaks. Winds can howl too; nearby Beaufort West holds South Africa’s wind speed record at 186 km/h, so brace yourself for some biting gusts.
Because I’m not a fan of temperature extremes, the sweet spot for me is spring (August/September) or autumn (April/May), when days are warm but not brutal and nights stay mild. You might catch wildflowers popping up in spring if the rain that year has been decent. Wildlife spotting is much the same year-round, but for me milder weather makes your stay – and your drives – way more comfortable.
You may also enjoy
Karoo National Park: everything you need to know
17 things to do in the Karoo National Park
Tankwa Karoo National Park: everything you need to know
Like it? Pin this image!
The Karoo National Park is all about extremes, so the ‘best’ time really depends on what you can handle – scorching heat, freezing cold, or something more comfy in between. Summer (October to March) gets seriously hot, with temperatures cranking up to 40°C or more, though random thunderstorms can cool things down a bit. Rainfall is low overall, averaging around 200mm a year, mostly in those quick summer downpours.
Winter (especially June and July) flips the script – super cold, with nights dipping below zero and the odd sprinkle of snow dusting the high Nuweveld peaks. Winds can howl too; nearby Beaufort West holds South Africa’s wind speed record at 186 km/h, so brace yourself for some biting gusts.
Because I’m not a fan of temperature extremes, the sweet spot for me is spring (August/September) or autumn (April/May), when days are warm but not brutal and nights stay mild. You might catch wildflowers popping up in spring if the rain that year has been decent. Wildlife spotting is much the same year-round, but for me milder weather makes your stay – and your drives – way more comfortable.
You may also enjoy
Karoo National Park: everything you need to know
17 things to do in the Karoo National Park
Tankwa Karoo National Park: everything you need to know
Like it? Pin this image!
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