Luderitz, Namibia, is wedged between the Namib Desert and the icy Atlantic, a colourful hamlet in a windswept landscape. To get there you must drive 340km from Keetmanshoop on a straight road that takes you through forbidden diamond territory. When you crest the last dune, the town appears out of a barren landscape like a mirage, as misplaced as any tiny German hamlet could be.