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How to choose a campsite at South Luangwa, Zambia

16/1/2013

33 Comments

 
Elephant at Croc Valley, Zambia
By Roxanne Reid
When you’re looking for accommodation via the Internet, happily ensconced at home a million miles away, it’s so hard to know how to choose between the available options. And so it was when we were choosing a place to stay at Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park.

First we had to understand that the only  accommodation available inside the southern park gates near Mfuwe village were lodges with a price tag of around US$500 per person per night – no camping at all.

Then we started to look at campsites just outside the park, but within the Game Management Area. The fact that Flatdogs no longer offers camping narrowed our choice to just three places: Croc Valley, Track & Trail Camp and Wildlife Camp (which all also offer chalet accommodation if camping isn't your thing).
Croc Valley campsite, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
Croc Valley offers shady campsites
1. We chose Croc Valley near Mfuwe Gate, which had shady campsites along the river, a bar restaurant and pool. By luck we thought it turned out to be the best choice (see why here). [Update] The rate per person for camping here in 2018 was US$12 per person per night. If you preferred, you could get a chalet for about US$150 per person per night. We also went on a sunset drive into the park with their resident guides.
Croc Valley campsite, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
Croc Valley's campsites overlook the Luangwa River
2. Although Track & Trail River Camp’s  attractive main lodge and chalets are perched on green grass with a great view of the river, the small campsite itself isn’t on the river so campers don’t have much of a view. For me that's a spoiler, but if it doesn't bother you and you're keen on photography, this might be an option as Track & Trail offers specialised photography safaris.
3. The campsite at Wildlife Camp is set out along the river, and there are thatched shelters for shade, a bar and pool. When we visited in the dry season it had less green grass than Croc Valley. It's also further away from the gate into the park, but only by about 10km. A point in its favour is that 60% of all accommodation and camping fees are donated to the Wildlife and Environmental Conservation Society of Zambia, which supports the wildlife and people of the Luangwa Valley.
Entrance to South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
All the camps mentioned here are within 5-20km of the entrance gate to the South Luangwa National Park
4. Our final investigative foray took us to Flatdogs, which no longer offers camping, but is a slightly more affordable option for people who can afford around US$50-250 but not US$450+ at places like Mfuwe Lodge and a herd of other upmarket lodges inside the park. Flatdogs has the ‘international Africa’ feel of a well-oiled machine and seems to be popular with British tourists on package holidays.

5. Just after our visit, Zikomo Camp opened in the game-rich Nsefu section just outside the park near Milyoti Gate. The campsite is small and set along the Luangwa River for good views. There's also a bar, restaurant and pool.

Whether you want to camp or go the posh route doesn’t matter; what’s important if you’re keen on wildlife is just to go. South Luangwa is a beautiful park with fabulous opportunities for photography. It also makes a divinely peaceful change from the eternal crowds at the Kruger National Park.

Need to know
1. South Africans don’t need a visa to enter Zambia.
2. Anyone going to Zambia via South Africa needs a yellow fever inoculation.


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How to choose a campsite at South Luangwa National Park, Zambia #Africa #safari #camping
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33 Comments
Bwana Mitch
7/3/2013 09:12:06 pm

I would prefer Zikomo (www.zikomosafari.com) - far away from the crowded area around Mfuwe Bridge.

Reply
Roxanne
8/3/2013 12:13:37 am

That's in the Nsefu sector in the north, right? Good to know.

Reply
Bwana Mitch
8/3/2013 03:16:08 am

Actually it's in the GMA on the boundary to Nsefu.

Reply
Gray link
20/2/2014 08:34:08 am

Hi Roxanne, I really like your blog! There is one other option for budget accommodation that you may have missed: Marula Lodge (http://marulalodgezambia.com/). It's on the same stretch of river as croc valley and has safari tents for $10 (if I remember correctly) they also have chalets. We have stayed there a couple of times and it is fantastic - the staff are the best we've found anywhere in Zambia!

Reply
Roxanne link
20/2/2014 09:49:41 am

First, thanks for your kind words, Gary. And thanks for the tip about Marula Lodge. It looks nice and it's certainly reasonable, though they seem only to offer backpackers (dorms) and "shared furnished tents" for $10, not what we in Africa call camping - i.e. where you bring your own tent or trailer to pitch on their land. Or am I wrong? It's useful in any case to hear of alternative affordable accommodation.

Reply
Laura
14/2/2017 05:22:05 pm

Hi
Thanks for the info .. please can you tell me if we are allowed to drive our own cars in the park ? Are the roads good ?
Looking forward to hearing from you ..
From Laura

Reply
Roxanne
15/2/2017 09:16:16 am

Yes, Laura, we drove our own vehicle in the park. I can't remember what the daily park fee was but it was quite expensive - something like the equivalent for R600-700 for two of us plus our vehicle. As for the roads, it depends on when you go. When we visited in May/June it was the dry season so we were ok, but I believe that in the wet season some of the roads flood completely or get gungy and more difficult to drive.

Reply
sarel Alberts
15/3/2017 11:41:03 am

Hi Roxanne.First off all thank you for sharing your info with us.Did you visit Kasanga from Luangwa ,if how does the road go from there? I am planning a trip in 2018 for myself and a group of friends.

Roxanne
15/3/2017 04:36:18 pm

Sorry I can't help you about conditions to Kasanka, Sarel, as we didn't visit. Kafue and Kasanka are still on our to-do list one day.

Reply
Rian Herselman
15/4/2017 12:49:48 pm

hi guys...so nice to come across this info! Can you give me more info regarding Zambia parks. We are planning a tour for 2019 and are thinking of crossing between Botswana (Moremi, Chobe and Savuti), Zimbabwe (Mana Pools) and Zambia. I am in a bit of darkness concerning what Zambia offers. Much appreciated.

Reply
Roxanne
15/4/2017 08:49:41 pm

Hi Rian, I'm not sure exactly what kind of info about Zambian parks you're looking for. Have a look at the two pages of the Zambia category on this blog (http://www.roxannereid.co.za/blog/category/zambia/) for a good idea of why to visit South Luangwa. It's the only Zambian park I've visited. Then let me kknow if you have any specific questions.

Reply
Dave Drewett
20/6/2018 09:02:59 pm

Roxanne, I liked your blog and the information about Croc Valley until I saw the date, 2013! What is it like now and where do we camp in September 2018? We were last in South Luangwa in thev1990's and will be on our way up to Tanzania/Kenya early Sept so thought to call in there on the way. Regards from inveterate traveller.

Reply
Roxanne Reid
21/6/2018 11:21:37 am

As far as I know, Croc Valley is still a good place to visit. It's on the river and in the conservation management area just outside the entrance gate to the park. Or you could try Googling campsites in the area.

Reply
Bwana Mitch
22/6/2018 06:31:06 pm

Hi, I recommended Zikomo when it had just opened (see above). In the meantime I had the opportunity to visit the place (though not as a self-driver; I stayed in one of the camps inside Nsefu Sector). Biggest surprise: Zikomo has a private access road into the park. You just cross dry Kauluzi riverbed in front of camp and you are in the park. As far as I remember this access road is also available to self-drivers staying at Zikomo campsite. Check it out! Game-wise Nsefu Sector is as good as Central Area but it lacks the crowds - only 3 camps share the whole area!

Reply
Debbie
2/10/2019 02:03:37 pm

Hi there i came across your thread and see you have mentioned that there are 3 campsites in the Nsefu region . Can you tell me the other two, i have camped at Zikomo a few years ago but i believe they no longer have camping only lodging.

Reply
Roxanne
2/10/2019 02:13:24 pm

I'm hoping Bwana Mitch will answer your question, Debbie,but I think when he says "camps" he may also be including non-camping lodges, many of which call themselves camps although they only offer chalets, not camping per se.

Roxanne Reid
23/6/2018 09:29:49 am

Thanks for the update, Mitch. It sounds super - definitely one to experience in future.

Reply
Howard Wakefield link
1/8/2018 01:55:55 pm

Hi Roxanne hope you can assist. The campsites you refer to are just outside the SL Park. What makes Moremi and other campsites thrilling is the access to animals inside the camp area. Do the park animals come thru the campsite area?
Many thanks

Reply
Roxanne
16/8/2018 04:06:27 pm

Indeed they do, Howard. Croc Valley and other campsites just outside SLNP are still part of the Greater Management Area (GMA) and we had animals walking through the camp, including elephants. You also get a great view of the river from the campsite.

Reply
Celine AM
8/8/2018 03:15:29 pm

Hi Roxanne,
thank you so much for your trip report ! We went to South Luangwa last year, staying at Thornicroft Lodge Chalet as part of a package. Last month we spent 3 week self-driving around Namibia, awesome, but Zambia is definitely above. So for Summer 2019 we plan to return to South Luangwa, also including Kafue, self-drive and camping. I have already included Zikomo for the Nsefu sector which we did not visit (we sticked to the Mfuwe bridge sector last year) and thanks to your report we will also go to Croc Valley so that we can enjoy again this part of the park. One question though, that might seem a bit stupid... When we were doing guided game drives, we used to do morning - afternoon drives, meaning we had to pay the park fees twice, and were stopping for breaks - stretching legs, having a coffee, bush toilet etc... as far as I know there are no rest stops like in Etosha for instance, and it seems leaving your vehicle is not allowed. How did you manage it with the self-drive ? Did you go for all-day-game-drive ? If so, where were you able to have breaks and lunch ? Or did you manage to "negociate" paying the fee only once a day ? Thanks a lot !
Céline

Reply
Roxanne
16/8/2018 04:04:32 pm

Interesting question, Celine. When we went, the park entrance fee was charged once for a full day, so we would self-drive in the morning and return to the campsite around lunchtime (some lovely animal visits there too!) and then either go back to self-drive in the afternoon or join a guided drive from Croc Valley. All we had to do was produce our stamped entry fee from the morning and we weren't charged entrance again. All national parks I've ever been to around Africa charge a daily fee so you can do multiple entries. I've never heard what you're talking about. And no, you're right, there don't seem to be any picnic/stretch stops in SLNP. Check with Croc Valley about multiple entries; I think wherever you stayed last time might have ripped you off. Croc Valley charged a flat fee for a guided drive and that included the entry fee; when we showed our entry fee paid that morning they simply subtracted that amount from their fee. Hope that helps.

Reply
Winston
14/1/2019 04:53:36 pm

I have heard there are wild camping spots inside South Luangwa park or on the northern border. Is this true? Does anyone know how to access them, whether I need a permit from the dept of wildlife, and if these camps truly are wild, or if there are "facilities" at them?
Thanks

Reply
Roxanne
22/1/2019 06:02:07 pm

That sounds interesting, Winston. I'm afraid I know nothing that can help you. I suggest you Google the Zambian Department of National Parks & Wildlife and try to find out through them. They also have a Facebook page that might be responsive: https://www.facebook.com/Department-of-National-Parks-Wildlife-420351424735202/

Alternatively, join the group forums on http://safaritalk.net/ and ask your question there; there's bound to be someone on that group who knows something or where you can get more info. Good luck!

Reply
Ben link
22/1/2019 08:29:20 pm

Many thanks. Good info.

Marius Kuipers
10/2/2019 04:42:00 pm

Great, informative website you have. We want to visit South Luangwa NP and The Bangweulu Swamps. According to my MapStudio mapbooks' map of South Luangwa there is a road/track through the park going north which connects to the RD49. This way is of course much shorter than returning to Lusaka and then going up north via Kapiri Moshi. Is this indeed a passable way?

Reply
Roxanne
10/2/2019 05:56:17 pm

Depends when you're going, Marius. I think it's definitely an option in the dry season (winter) but not in the wet season. Another place to check is Tracks4Africa.com and their maps.

Reply
Roxanne
10/2/2019 06:32:52 pm

Just talked to someone who lived in South Luangwa for 18 and he said it MAY be possible in August to October, but it would be hard and he wouldn't attempt it. Hope that answers your question.

Dawie Maree
16/6/2019 10:43:28 am

Hi there, I live and work in South Luangwa. The road through the park is called the O5 rom the south if the Mupamadzi on the northern border is low enough (usually from June/July up to end October) you can cross. The next challenge is to drive the road up Muchinga Escarpment which I recommend only experienced 4x4 drivers try out. It is a incline of a few kilometers and no place to turn around or pass other vehicles.

Reply
Roxanne
16/6/2019 12:07:17 pm

Thanks for your insights, Dawie. I hope this is useful for Marius and others thinking about taking this route.

Marius Kuipers
18/2/2019 10:34:11 pm

Thanks for your answer(s)

Reply
Natalie geleschun
12/5/2019 03:26:21 pm

Hello Marius did you try the road .? We are looking at trying the same route in July. Thank you

Reply
IAN ESLICK
4/10/2023 11:21:06 am

We are planning a trip into Zambia, South Luangwa, late August 2024. What are your latest recommendations for camp sites.
Many thanks

Reply
Roxanne
6/10/2023 07:05:45 pm

I would still recommend Croc Valley as the nicest and nearest campsite to the gate at Mfuwe. If you don't mind travelling then Wildlife Camp is also good. If you prefer to try the Nsefu section then Zikomo is popular though I still haven't experienced it myself.

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    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
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    We're happiest in the middle of nowhere, meeting the locals, trying something new, or simply watching the grass grow.
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