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8 things to do in the Tankwa Karoo from Gannaga Lodge

2/5/2018

10 Comments

 
Gannaga River Gorge, Tankwa Karoo
​By Roxanne Reid
South Africa’s Tankwa Karoo is remote, way out in the sticks between nowhere and nothing. But that doesn’t mean you can’t drink in the open spaces, the big blue skies and the booming silence. It also doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do. Here are things to do in the Tankwa Karoo from Gannaga Lodge.

1. Drive the gravel Gannaga Pass, stopping here and there to admire the view over the wide Karoo landscape and open skies. Try to do it in both directions, because the views are different; my favourite is the descent, when the view is laid out below you and you don’t have to crick your neck. If you approach your Tankwa Karoo accommodation at Gannaga Lodge from the Ceres/Sutherland or Calvinia entrances of the Tankwa Karoo National Park, you’ll have to drive up the pass to get to the lodge anyway. But if you approach from Middelpos, it’s worth driving the pass as an outing during your stay. If you’re fit and energetic, you could ride it on your mountain bike or hike it. Note that the pass can become slippery when it rains or snows, so check first at the lodge or at the Roodewerf offices in the park about conditions along the way.
Gannaga Pass, Tankwa Karoo National Park
Gannaga Pass
2. Take a drive to the Gannaga River Gorge 5.5km away from the lodge along a tweespoor track. It says 4x4 only, but as long as you have high clearance, you’ll be fine. When we visited recently, the river had last had water in it four-and-a-half years before. There’s an expansive view to left and right, looking down on the winding riverbed, the deep gorge and over the Langkloof campsite in the Tankwa Karoo National Park, its ablutions like matchbox toys in the distance. 
Gannaga River Gorge, Tankwa
Gannaga River Gorge
3. To make the most of your Tankwa Karoo accommodation, walk around the farmstead and enjoy the peace and silence. One of the lodge’s dogs might join you. Enjoy the small tribe of unusual wire and cement figures that dot the area, as well as rusted farm implements from another time.
Gannaga Lodge, Tankwa Karoo
Old stone buildings and rusted farm implements abound in the farm yard
4. Give in to laziness and pick a spot to read a book – the library and the lodge’s stoep are two of the best places, but I enjoyed time on the farm house’s verandah too.
Library, Gannaga Lodge
The sitting room and library
5. Go for a swim in the lodge’s pool, which has wraparound views of the Karoo.
Swimming pool, Gannaga Lodge
Swimming pool with a view of the Tankwa veld
6. After dinner, when the skies are dark, don’t forget to look up to enjoy the stars that sparkle in all their brightness here in the clean, dry air. If you walk a little way from the lodge area, down the path towards the entrance gate, the sky will open up further without buildings and trees in the way, and you should be able to see the Milky Way, more spectacular than it will ever be over any big city lights.

7. If you’re a fan of South African-born Shakespearean actor and writer Anthony Sher, visit Middelpos 28km north of the lodge to see the setting of his novel by the anglicised name Middelpost. Established as a trading post in 1860, Middelpos today is South Africa’s smallest village. It’s a dozy and dusty little place that’s not particularly pretty, with just the Middelpos Hotel, a general dealer, school, police station and garage. Don’t miss going into the general dealer to buy a chocolate or cold drink; it’s like walking through a wormhole into the past.
Middelpos Hotel, Middelpos
Middelpos Hotel in the one-horse town of Middelpos
8. Go plant-spotting. You’ve struck it lucky if you visit between August and October, when the veld might be covered in wild flowers. Some 615 species occur in the Tankwa Karoo National Park, and this Succulent Karoo biome is the only arid area in the world to be declared a biodiversity hotspot. Look out for the pinkish flowers of the Hoodia gordonii, known to the San to curb hunger. Take photos but don’t flout park rules by taking cuttings, digging up, picking or damaging the plants in any way.
Wild flowers in the Tankwa Karoo National Park
Come in September to October for the best wild flower displays
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You may also enjoy
Gannaga Lodge at the top of Gannaga Pass in the Tankwa Karoo
The Tankwa Padstal in the Karoo

Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
Gannaga Lodge at the top of Gannaga Pass in the Tankwa Karoo National Park is remote, but there are lots of things to do in the Tankwa Karoo. See wild flowers in spring, go on a game drive, see the Gannaga gorge, drive Gannaga Pass, visit the town of Middelpos, go for a swim or enjoy an evening of star-gazing. #Tankwa #Karoo #Gannaga
Gannaga Lodge at the top of Gannaga Pass in the Tankwa Karoo National Park is remote, but there are lots of things to do in the Tankwa Karoo. See wild flowers in spring, go on a game drive, see the Gannaga gorge, drive Gannaga Pass, visit the town of Middelpos, go for a swim or enjoy an evening of star-gazing. #Tankwa #Karoo #Gannaga
10 Comments
Lanette Smit
3/5/2018 08:17:53 pm

Wonderful to read all you articles filled with interesting facts Thank you

Reply
Roxanne
4/5/2018 02:23:22 pm

Thanks, Lanette. I do try hard to add in interesting little bits of info as well as to make the posts useful, so I appreciate your comment hugely.

Reply
Renate Wilke-Launer
3/5/2018 11:53:23 pm

Dear Roxanne,

Thank you for your postings on Gannaga Lodge. We have been there twice and can highly recommend it.

Another of your recommendations made us visit the old goal in Willowmore...

Kind regards from Berlin
Renate

Reply
Roxanne
4/5/2018 02:21:13 pm

Thanks for your comments, Renate. Gannaga is special indeed. I love to inspire people to visit new places, so I do hope you enjoy the Old Jail.

Reply
Amalia link
5/5/2018 05:03:16 pm

Really beautiful pictures! Those wild flowers with the mountain background are stunning! How hot is the weather there during summer though?

Reply
Roxanne
7/5/2018 01:22:13 pm

Thanks, Amalia. Wild flowers occur in spring (August to October), which is a good time to visit. At the height of summer temperatures are usually in the high 30s, and can get up to nearly 50.

Reply
Harold
25/4/2023 06:26:55 am

Are there camping sites in the Tankwa Karoo

Reply
Roxanne Reid
26/4/2023 04:42:55 pm

Yes, quite a few, some with facilities and some with none. Get the lowdown in this post https://www.roxannereid.co.za/blog/tankwa-karoo-national-park-everything-you-need-to-know

Reply
Sarie Louw
28/12/2024 02:31:58 pm

Hi ek en 3 senior burgers wil graag die Gannagapass gaan ry met n 1500 golf sedan ons is baie lief vir natuur en berge en passe is ons kos kan ons die pass ry

Reply
Roxanne Reid
30/12/2024 07:47:04 am

Sarie, it depends when you want to go. If the pass is dry and there have been no washaways it shouldn't be a problem. If it has been raining or snowing I wouldn't advise you to try with that vehicle. The best would be to contact the lodge before you plan to go and ask them. See the contact details right at the bottom of this web page https://www.gannagalodge.co.za/contact/

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    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
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