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17 things to do in Nieu Bethesda in the Karoo

18/4/2018

17 Comments

 
Two Goats brewing, Nieu Bethesda, Karoo
​By Roxanne Reid
The small village of Nieu Bethesda in the Eastern Cape Karoo was once a dusty little place no one had heard of. Then it rocketed to fame on the reputation of Helen Martins’ strangely compelling Owl House and Camel Yard. But there’s much more to it than the Owl House. Here are 17 things to do in Nieu Bethesda in the Karoo. 

About 50km from Graaff-Reinet in the Karoo heartland, Nieu Bethesda began life as a church town in 1875. Its biblical name was the inspiration of Graaff-Reinet’s Reverend Charles Murray. Once famous for Karoo lamb and angora goats, today it’s better known for the ‘outsider art’ of the Owl House. Although there are lots of things to do, don’t miss out on some stoepsit – just sitting chilling on the verandah, watching the passing parade.

1. Visit the Helen Martins museum
No, this is not the same as the Owl House. Visit the Helen Martins museum in Martins Street before you visit the Owl House around the corner. Here you can watch an introductory video about Helen and the Owl House, and browse old photos and letters. See how pretty she was when she was young and get an understanding of how having what is now thought to be undiagnosed bipolar disorder affected her. A letter to her lover Johannes Hattingh says: ‘I am in hell, the days get heavier and darker.’ She committed suicide by drinking caustic soda in 1976, but not before creating the Owl House and Camel Yard as her creative legacy. 
Helen Martins' Owl House Nieu Bethesda, Eastern Cape Karoo, South Africa
Outside Helen Martins' Owl House, Nieu Bethesda
2. Experience the Owl House
Opened to the public in 1996, Helen Martins’ Owl House is unique, an outpouring of her creative drive. Inside, walls and ceilings are painted in bright colours and patterns, all covered with glass chips that she used to grind in a coffee grinder and spray onto the paint while it was wet. There are lots of mirrors too. The Camel Yard outside is chockfull of cement and glass figures, inspired mainly by the bible, and the poetry of Omar Khayam and William Blake. They include humans, owls and camels, as well as churches and strange creatures that are half man, half beast.

​Read more about the Owl House and Camel Yard

3. Explore the water mill and water furrows
Take a stroll up and down some of Nieu Bethesda’s streets and you’ll see the old leivore (water furrows) that provide water to the village. Locals direct water into their gardens and plots by using smaller gated channels. All the water comes from a spring above the village, and if you cross the bridge to the other side of the river opposite the Owl House you can still see the watermill that was built in 1860.
Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre, Nieu Bethesda
At the Kitching centre, you can see how fossils are exposed from rock
4. Go to the Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre
The Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre uses info boards, models and videos to tell the story of early mammal-like reptiles in the Karoo in the Permian period 253 million years ago – way before the first dinosaurs ever walked the earth. It’s named after James Kitching, who grew up in Nieu Bethesda and later became famous because of his knack for discovering fossils. He became professor in palaeontology at the University of the Witwatersrand. From the centre, you can also go with a guide to see fossils still embedded in the rock of the nearby riverbed.
Bethesda Arts Centre of the First People
See the work of local artists at the Bethesda Arts Centre
5. Explore the Art Route
There’s an active art scene and you can visit various art, sculpture and pottery studios in the village. The Bethesda Arts Centre of the First People celebrates local art by showcasing the work of various artists working with clay, glass and wood, with the tapestries illustrating /Xam (a Khoisan group) mythology as a centrepoint. There’s usually someone on hand to explain the culture and beliefs that inspired them.
Dustcovers bookshop, Nieu Bethesda
The tiny but well-stocked bookshop
6. Duck in to Dustcovers 
If you love quirky bookshops full of buried treasure, duck into Dustcovers in Hudson Street. It’s stuffed full of pre-loved books, from collectable Africana to good fiction and light reading – or, as their Facebook page puts it, ‘damn fine reads’. You might meet one of the owner’s dogs as a bonus.
Nieu Bethesda restaurants: The Ibis Lounge
Try to visit The Ibis Lounge on your first day so you can go back again before you leave
7. Enjoy a meal at The Ibis Lounge
Don’t miss a visit to The Ibis Lounge. Chill on the sofas and read a book with a cup of coffee, or have lunch inside or outside on the stoep. They do dinners too, but there are only a few tables so it’s best to book ahead to avoid disappointment. We stopped with few expectations and left wishing we had discovered this lovely place before our last day in Nieu Bethesda.

Our lunch was a veg quiche with salad, and possibly the best lamb burger we’ve ever had – a fat lamb patty that was all meat with no extenders in sight, served on half a traditional roosterkoek and topped with a delicious minty yoghurt sauce. Yum. Presentation was on long rectangular white plates, and everything was freshly made from locally produced, seasonal ingredients, thanks at least in part to the restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden. 
Staff at The Ibis Lounge, Nieu Bethesda
Chat to the staff at the Ibis Lounge and you'll learn all sorts of interesting things
​For dessert, bubbly co-owner Barbara Weitz, chief magician in the kitchen, convinced us to try sorbet made from the queen of the night cactus. It was reminiscent of prickly pear or cucumber in taste, but white in colour with tiny pips like a kiwi fruit. Very refreshing, so don’t miss this delicacy if it’s on the menu when you visit. Our second pud choice was a deliciously creamy chocolate crème brûlée that was superb (and yes, we’re crème brûlée fanatics!).

I loved Barbara’s idea of a ‘masterchef’ competition with her staff, whereby they’re encouraged to create new dishes, the best of which are tried out on the regular menu, with a profit-share from each plate sold going to the recipe’s originator. Keeping staff inspired and motivated is so important but it’s not everyone who goes the extra mile.

Barbara and husband Johan took over the Ibis Lounge in September 2017 after spending 14 years in the safari industry in Tanzania. They also offer Nieu Bethesda accommodation, with the Karoo room, the Happy room and the Amore room looking out over a garden courtyard with swimming pool. 
Nieu Bethesda restaruants: Antie Evelyne se Eetplek in Pienaarsig township
Antie Evelyne's restaurant may be small, but portions are hearty
8. Have lunch at Antie Evelyne se Eetplek
This restaurant in the settlement of Pienaarsig is in Evelyne Olifant’s front yard, with a corrugated iron roof for shade. It seats around 20 people and you might meet other South Africans or guests from overseas. Enjoy traditional boerekos like chicken pie, Karoo lamb chops, caramelised pumpkin and vetkoek. It’s good old home cooking at an affordable price, and a chance to support a local. Antie Evelyne has created the restaurant as a way of to be self-sufficient. She also runs a free soup kitchen and does her best to keep the local kids away from alcohol, drugs and violence. Phone 083-8735526 to book ahead so she knows how many to cater for.

Read more about Antie Evelyne se Eetplek
Sneeuberg Brewery or Two Goats brewing has nice cheese platters and craft beer South Africa
Cheese platter for two at the Two Goats
9. Relax with a beer and cheese tasting
Cross the river from the Owl House to find the Sneeuberg Brewery and Two Goats Deli. Order a sample tasting of Karoo ale, honey ale and dark beer, with a cider thrown in for good measure. Then order a glass of the one you like best. You can order toasted sarmies or – my favourite – a bread, cheese and kudu salami platter, all made by owner Andre Cilliers. There are chairs inside or under trees in the garden at the back, so the kids can entertain themselves while you enjoy a casual and relaxing hour or two. There’s freshly roasted coffee too.
Nieu Bethesda restaurants: Tower Cafe
Probably the most intriguing little building in Nieu Bethesda
10. Visit the Tower Café 
Next to the Bethesda Arts Centre (see point 5) is the quirky three-storey Bethesda Tower that has accommodation at the top and a shop and café on the ground floor. I haven’t tried the food here but it deserves a second look even if only to admire the fairytale tower. Other popular restaurants in the village include the Karoo Lamb and Bruno’s Alfresco Pizzeria.
Dutch Reformed church, Nieu Bethesda
Nieu Bethesda's church was built in 1905
11. See the village church 
Back in the 1870s, when Graaff-Reinet was still about seven hours away by ox wagon or donkey cart, the locals decided they needed their own church. The building that was used from 1878 is now known as the Old Church Hall. The splendid ‘new’ church we see today dates back to 1905. Unless you’re there on a Sunday, you won’t get to see the inside, which has seating for about 700 and still has its original gas chandeliers from the days before electricity came to the village. It’s one of the prettier churches of the Karoo, with an elegant tower and a clock that still chimes to remind locals and visitors of the passing of time.
Donkey cart rides are great for Nieu Bethesda tourism
Jakob with two of his donkeys
12. Take a donkey cart ride around the village
Chances are that if you visit the Owl House over the weekend, you might see Jakob van Staden and his donkey cart resting under a shady tree nearby, or walking along the streets of Nieu Bethesda. Climb aboard for a gentle stroll through the village as Jakob fills you in on some of the history and points of interest along the way – the old church, the new church, Compassberg mountain which looms over the village, Athol Fugard’s house. Listen to his tales of the old days, when Helen Martins was still alive, or about when his donkey cart participates in local weddings. His contact number is 072-9879831.

Read more about the donkey cart ride

​
13. Ride a bike
Another good way to experience the village in all its quirkiness is to take a lazy ride around on your bike, stopping here and there for shopping or coffee. If you’re more energetic (and fitter), there are mountain bike trails at Ganora Guest Farm and a Compassberg trail.
Visit Ganora Guest Farm in search of Karoo fossils
Ganora's JP Steyberg is an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide to the ancient fossils of his farm
14. Find fossils and Bushman paintings
A good place for your Nieu Bethesda accommodation is Ganora Guest Farm about 7km from the village. Even if you don’t stay there, you can visit for the day but you need to book this in advance, so you can be fitted in with overnight guests for the activities. Ganora’s website says it all: ‘Give us one day and we will give you 250 million years.’

During your visit, you’ll see JP Steynberg’s amazing collection of fossils in the farm’s museum, all of them pre-dating the time of dinosaurs, with most of the mammal-like reptiles, from big to small, being around 250 million years old. JP and his sons have found all of these fossils on the farm over the past 20 years. He will infect you with his enthusiasm for these ‘stone bones’ and take you on an excursion into the veld to find fossils still embedded in the rock.

Other activities on the farm include hiking, biking (see point 13), and visiting a shelter with 7000-year-old Bushman paintings, 600-year-old Khoi paintings and some Anglo Boer War engravings.
 
Read more about the Ganora experience

​
15. Climb the Compassberg
The Compassberg is the highest free-standing peak in the Eastern Cape at 2502m and a climb to the top is popular with hikers who like a challenge. The drive from Nieu Bethesda village to the starting point of the hike will take about an hour. It’s on private land so call Brenda or Alf James on 087-1504922 beforehand to get permission and directions. The hike, classed as moderate to difficult, starts at their farmhouse and takes about 90 min to the base of the mountain, and another 90 min to the summit, depending on your level of fitness. The reward is a wonderful 360-degree view of the surrounding Karoo from the top. The descent back to the farmhouse also takes about three hours.

​Note: Do not attempt this hike in bad weather – it’s much colder on the mountain than in the village, and rain, snow and wind are not your friends.
Some of the oldest gravestones in Nieu Bethesda cemetery
16. Wander through the cemetery
If you’re like me and have a fascination with the history that lies buried (see what I did there?) in cemeteries, go for a walk through Nieu Bethesda’s cemetery. You’ll find old and new headstones, some elaborate and others much simpler. Read stories of a month-old baby, a soldier felled in action near Nieu Bethesda during the Anglo Boer War. Some of the older graves have tombstones made from rock slabs and the oldest I found was from 1830. Apparently there’s one that goes back to 1786, though time has faded the carvings on many of the rock tombstones and lichen eaten into them, making them hard to read.

17. Go stargazing
Without street lights, the stars stand out brighter than ever in the clean, dry Karoo skies over Nieu Bethesda, so don’t forget to look up for some star gazing and to marvel at the brightness of the Milky Way.

Like it? Pin this image! ​
Helen Martins’ Owl House is the most famous draw card to Nieu Bethesda in South Africa’s Eastern Cape Karoo, but there are lots of other things to do. Find out about the Kitching Fossil Explortion Centre, fossils, Nieu Bethesda restaurants, Nieu Bethesda accommodation, the Compassberg, Nieu Bethesda hiking, Nieu Bethesda cycling, Nieu Bethesda’s art route, donkey cart rides, Two Goats brewing at the Sneeuberg Brewery, and other things to do in Nieu Bethesda. #travel #africa
Helen Martins’ Owl House is the most famous draw card to Nieu Bethesda in South Africa’s Eastern Cape Karoo, but there are lots of other things to do. Find out about the Kitching Fossil Explortion Centre, fossils, Nieu Bethesda restaurants, Nieu Bethesda accommodation, the Compassberg, Nieu Bethesda hiking, Nieu Bethesda cycling, Nieu Bethesda’s art route, donkey cart rides, Two Goats brewing at the Sneeuberg Brewery, and other things to do in Nieu Bethesda. #travel #africa
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12 things to do in Graaff-Reinet in the Karoo
​
Kliphuis at Sneeuberg Nature Reserve near Nieu Bethesda, Karoo


Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
17 Comments
Mary
18/4/2018 11:14:26 am

The town is a gem. I found it well worth a visit. It’s quaint and interesting. What Greyton was like years ago before all the development. Enjoyed all the info in your blog.

Reply
Roxanne
19/4/2018 10:33:59 am

Thanks for your comment, Mary. Yes, it has remained a small town without overdevelopment, which is great for visitors.

Reply
Bea Sampson
22/11/2018 07:09:38 pm

My apologies for this inquiry but I know not where to direct my request.
I am looking for a dear friiend of many years ago with whom`i have lost contact. Iwonder if you can help in my search for Idil Sheard, who settled in your precious village, is all `i know. I would be ever so grateful. Many thanks Bea Sampson

Reply
Roxanne
3/12/2018 10:10:02 am

Hi Bea, the best thing I can suggest is trawling Facebook for any sites to do with Nieu-Bethesda. Like the page and then submit your query there. It's a small community so word is sure to get round quickly. For instance, you could try: https://www.facebook.com/Nieu-Bethesda-174369439261891/ Good luck!

Karen Terblanche
13/3/2019 10:54:44 pm

Hi there! I grew up in Nieu-Bethesda... On the farm, Ganora. There is fb pages for Nieu-Bethesda... They will be able to assist you with her telephone number! I do know her, but unfortunately doesn't have her number. Good luck.

Hannes van Loggerenberg
21/4/2018 11:17:19 am

I have very fond memories of many visits throughout the eighties to the Buddhist retreat that was then operating in Nieu-Bethesda. People visited from Port Elizabeth and Grahamstown, also from Cape Town, and even from Joburg, Pretoria and Durban to meditate under guidance of teachers like Akong Rinpoché, Godwin Samararatna, Rob Nairn and Edie Irwin for weekends or week long retreats during Easter and Christmas, also other times of the year. It was pure magic. The retreat has since relocated to Groot Marico and Botrivier. This town and its people are very special. The best times of my student years.

Reply
Roxanne
23/4/2018 05:15:47 pm

What wonderful memories, Hannes. But then I often think some of the best memories are from when we're students, and more free than we thought we were at the time.

Reply
Wendy
22/4/2018 07:55:16 pm

I love the Karoo towns. They always have an interesting history.
You often get some very different and eccentric people in them. I suppose they exist in cities but they are more hidden!

Reply
Roxanne
23/4/2018 05:14:10 pm

You're right about Karoo towns, Wendy, and probably also about strange people being more hidden in the city. I love that people who live in the Karoo feel they can be who they really are.

Reply
Moira Odendaal
5/9/2018 08:21:12 am

What a beautiful place ... A must visit!!!

Reply
Roxanne Reid
5/9/2018 08:35:54 am

It's small but very special.

Reply
Annette le Roux
11/3/2019 06:28:29 pm

I wonder if anyone remembers the full moon festival in 1993? It was so epic. One of the locals approached us and asked who are you people? The guy I was with, Sascha, said we are the happy happy people. The next day, there was an article in the local rag about a group who called themselves ' the happy happy people ' Still giggling at that.

Reply
Roxanne
13/3/2019 03:47:35 pm

What a fun memory, Annette. 1993 is way before I visted Nieu Bethesda, but it sounds like an idea that should make a comeback, a sort of traditional like the New Year's Eve party.

Reply
Petra Boshoff
15/10/2020 09:31:17 pm

An experience I will never forget..........a must see.

Reply
Roxanne
17/10/2020 09:03:49 am

I agree, Petra, both the Owl House and the rest of the village are well worth a visit.

Reply
Chantel Harris
29/10/2020 12:48:49 pm

Good Day

Can we visit these places on a Sunday are they open at all

Reply
Roxanne Reid
29/10/2020 12:52:24 pm

Some places would be open on Sundays, you'd have to check the links to their websites to e sure. Also, I don't know what effect Covid has had on Nieu Bethesda businesses.

Reply

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    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
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