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Camping in the Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia

23/3/2016

10 Comments

 
Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia
By Roxanne Reid
We were completely off the grid in an area more beautiful than a rainbow. Surrounded by pinkish mountains and open plains speckled with camel thorn trees, we couldn’t see another human or hear even an echo of the hustle and bustle of normal life. We were camping in the Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia, our surroundings flawless.

Our day had started at Aus, where the wild horses of the Namib inspired us with a sense of freedom. We’d taken the winding D707 through the Tirasberg mountains. While hubby clutched the steering wheel and tried to avoid corrugations in the gravel road or bottoming out in potholes, I watched entranced as the scenery reshaped itself around me, layer upon layer of mountains unfolding, some of them sparse and rocky, others green or gold with vegetation.

​I’d long wanted to travel this road, not exactly a shortcut between Aus and Sossusvlei, and I was thrilled to find it well worth the detour.
Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia
The Namtib Biosphere Reserve about 50km along this road was going to be home for a couple of days. We opened a farm gate and bounced along a rough track wide enough for a single vehicle, hemmed in by tall grass and wondering what we’d do if we met a car coming the other way. To our right were red rocks, to our left a greenish valley with knuckled mountains – two completely different worlds on opposite sides of the narrow track.

Booking in could have been friendlier and more helpful, but once we backtracked and turned off to the campsite we couldn’t have been happier.
Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia
The ‘biosphere’ story
I imagine that commercial farming on the edge of the Namib Desert can be challenging, and the Thiele family who own the land here have decided to use guidelines laid down for biosphere reserves to promote sustainable use and management of natural resources. The aim is for all farming and tourism activities to be sustainable while conserving the biodiversity of the delicate environment.
Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia
The campsite
Our campsite was called Little Hunter’s Rest; artefacts found under the camel thorn trees revealed that San hunters must have rested here when they were out hunting long, long ago. There were only six sites spread far apart, and simple ablutions with a donkey boiler for hot water. Each site had a built-in braai and there was a rudimentary washing up sink in the ablution area. There was no power – and just a single candle in the ablutions – but we’d done our homework and had our own solar/battery power for our fridge and lights.
Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia
​We chose a spot between two camel thorn trees, ringed by red sand with soft golden grass and a necklace of mountains in the distance. A few horses were grazing on the plains not far away but otherwise we had the place to ourselves. Perfect.

About an hour later a German couple arrived and occupied another site so far away that their vehicle looked like a matchbox toy. They had no clue what a donkey boiler was or how to work it so we volunteered to make the fire for them. Ten minutes later they went for their showers, not realising that the fire would take at least 45 minutes to get the water hot. But they didn’t complain about their cold shower; they were too happy being wrapped in wilderness to care.
Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia
​The ‘biosphere’ philosophy of the farm has created a stunning camping place for anyone who loves off-the-grid simplicity. Surrounded by nature, by rugged mountains rising from vast open plains, there’s a stillness and solitude that creeps into your heart. No need to get up early unless you want to, no need to do anything but go for a walk to explore or just chill at your campsite and drink it all in.
Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia
Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia
​Palewing starling, redeyed bulbul and whitebrowed sparrowweavers chattered around us through the day or tried to attack their reflections in the car bumper or side mirror, but there were no other interruptions. The wind came up in the afternoons but died down by sunset so we could enjoy the flush of pink and mauve on the distant mountains, the shades of warm red and butternut that lit up the rocks behind our camp.
What to do
If you’re feeling energetic, there’s a hiking trail and a botanical trail, or you can ask at reception about going on a nature drive. But for us the two highlights were the joy of doing nothing but absorb the peace in a pristine environment, and gazing at the gazillions of bright stars far away from any sources of light pollution.

Sure, the Namtib Biosphere Reserve is a little out of the way, but that’s a turn-on for me. If you feel the same and you’re self-sufficient when you camp, I can highly recommend the setting.

Like it? Pin this image!
Campin in Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Tirasberg, Namibia #Namibia #Namtib #Tirasberg
You might also enjoy:
Desert Horse Campsite and Namibia's wild horses
​5 campsites in Namibia: the southwest
​More about Namibia


Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
10 Comments
Andries Hoek
23/3/2016 01:05:49 pm

Pragtige plekke. Mooi saamgestel

Reply
Roxanne
23/3/2016 02:15:50 pm

Dankie Andries, ek waardeer dit.

Reply
lesley
29/3/2016 08:41:18 pm

That's my ideal campsite. When your neighbours are not on your doorstep. Looks fantantic. Will Keep it in mind when we visit in 2017

Reply
Roxanne
30/3/2016 10:17:29 am

Ah yes, Lesley, the magic of places with space to breathe. Enjoy your visit in 2017!

Reply
Jenny Reid
31/3/2016 12:42:46 am

Roxanne, it looks amazing, was this a recent trip & what time of the year was it. I am busy reading your ebook Travels in the Kalahari. So inspiring that we have a trip planned for Sept this year. Love your views on these vast areas.

Reply
Roxanne
31/3/2016 09:30:52 am

Hi Jenny, thanks for your kind comments. We visited Namtib and southern Namibia in May last year, going on to the north in June.

I hope you enjoy the Kgalagadi - it's lovely in September because all the migrant birds should be back, although it's often very dry. But there have been good rains this summer so September this year should at least be better than last year when there was very little rain in Jan-April.

Reply
Frans Bothma
17/3/2017 03:26:13 pm

Want to book campsite.

Reply
Roxanne
19/3/2017 07:24:30 am

Sorry Frans I can't help you with that. Google Namtib or Little Hunter's Rest to find the camp's website. I just visited and wrote about our experience but I have no connection to the camp or its bookings.

Reply
Jacqui
4/11/2020 08:28:03 pm

Thank you Roxanne

Loved this blog, beautifully captured and accurately written. We have just returned from Namtib Biosphere & Namibrand Nature Reserve.
Both awesome campsites.
We couldn't have asked for more, loved both for their differences and similarities.
Thank you so much for leading us there.

Reply
Roxanne
5/11/2020 12:06:37 pm

Ah, that's so good to hear, Jacqui. Both Namtib and NamibRand hae been Namibian highlights for us - and we've visited that beautiful country more than 30 times! That's how addicted we are to its space and silence.

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    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
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