By Roxanne Reid
We were completely off the grid in an area more beautiful than a rainbow. Surrounded by pinkish mountains and open plains speckled with camel thorn trees, we couldn’t see another human or hear even an echo of the hustle and bustle of normal life. We were camping in the Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia, our surroundings flawless.
We were completely off the grid in an area more beautiful than a rainbow. Surrounded by pinkish mountains and open plains speckled with camel thorn trees, we couldn’t see another human or hear even an echo of the hustle and bustle of normal life. We were camping in the Namtib Biosphere Reserve, Namibia, our surroundings flawless.
Our day had started at Aus, where the wild horses of the Namib inspired us with a sense of freedom. We’d taken the winding D707 through the Tirasberg mountains. While hubby clutched the steering wheel and tried to avoid corrugations in the gravel road or bottoming out in potholes, I watched entranced as the scenery reshaped itself around me, layer upon layer of mountains unfolding, some of them sparse and rocky, others green or gold with vegetation.
I’d long wanted to travel this road, not exactly a shortcut between Aus and Sossusvlei, and I was thrilled to find it well worth the detour.
I’d long wanted to travel this road, not exactly a shortcut between Aus and Sossusvlei, and I was thrilled to find it well worth the detour.
The Namtib Biosphere Reserve about 50km along this road was going to be home for a couple of days. We opened a farm gate and bounced along a rough track wide enough for a single vehicle, hemmed in by tall grass and wondering what we’d do if we met a car coming the other way. To our right were red rocks, to our left a greenish valley with knuckled mountains – two completely different worlds on opposite sides of the narrow track.
Booking in could have been friendlier and more helpful, but once we backtracked and turned off to the campsite we couldn’t have been happier.
Booking in could have been friendlier and more helpful, but once we backtracked and turned off to the campsite we couldn’t have been happier.
The ‘biosphere’ story
I imagine that commercial farming on the edge of the Namib Desert can be challenging, and the Thiele family who own the land here have decided to use guidelines laid down for biosphere reserves to promote sustainable use and management of natural resources. The aim is for all farming and tourism activities to be sustainable while conserving the biodiversity of the delicate environment.
I imagine that commercial farming on the edge of the Namib Desert can be challenging, and the Thiele family who own the land here have decided to use guidelines laid down for biosphere reserves to promote sustainable use and management of natural resources. The aim is for all farming and tourism activities to be sustainable while conserving the biodiversity of the delicate environment.
The campsite
Our campsite was called Little Hunter’s Rest; artefacts found under the camel thorn trees revealed that San hunters must have rested here when they were out hunting long, long ago. There were only six sites spread far apart, and simple ablutions with a donkey boiler for hot water. Each site had a built-in braai and there was a rudimentary washing up sink in the ablution area. There was no power – and just a single candle in the ablutions – but we’d done our homework and had our own solar/battery power for our fridge and lights.
Our campsite was called Little Hunter’s Rest; artefacts found under the camel thorn trees revealed that San hunters must have rested here when they were out hunting long, long ago. There were only six sites spread far apart, and simple ablutions with a donkey boiler for hot water. Each site had a built-in braai and there was a rudimentary washing up sink in the ablution area. There was no power – and just a single candle in the ablutions – but we’d done our homework and had our own solar/battery power for our fridge and lights.
We chose a spot between two camel thorn trees, ringed by red sand with soft golden grass and a necklace of mountains in the distance. A few horses were grazing on the plains not far away but otherwise we had the place to ourselves. Perfect.
About an hour later a German couple arrived and occupied another site so far away that their vehicle looked like a matchbox toy. They had no clue what a donkey boiler was or how to work it so we volunteered to make the fire for them. Ten minutes later they went for their showers, not realising that the fire would take at least 45 minutes to get the water hot. But they didn’t complain about their cold shower; they were too happy being wrapped in wilderness to care.
About an hour later a German couple arrived and occupied another site so far away that their vehicle looked like a matchbox toy. They had no clue what a donkey boiler was or how to work it so we volunteered to make the fire for them. Ten minutes later they went for their showers, not realising that the fire would take at least 45 minutes to get the water hot. But they didn’t complain about their cold shower; they were too happy being wrapped in wilderness to care.
The ‘biosphere’ philosophy of the farm has created a stunning camping place for anyone who loves off-the-grid simplicity. Surrounded by nature, by rugged mountains rising from vast open plains, there’s a stillness and solitude that creeps into your heart. No need to get up early unless you want to, no need to do anything but go for a walk to explore or just chill at your campsite and drink it all in.
Palewing starling, redeyed bulbul and whitebrowed sparrowweavers chattered around us through the day or tried to attack their reflections in the car bumper or side mirror, but there were no other interruptions. The wind came up in the afternoons but died down by sunset so we could enjoy the flush of pink and mauve on the distant mountains, the shades of warm red and butternut that lit up the rocks behind our camp.
What to do
If you’re feeling energetic, there’s a hiking trail and a botanical trail, or you can ask at reception about going on a nature drive. But for us the two highlights were the joy of doing nothing but absorb the peace in a pristine environment, and gazing at the gazillions of bright stars far away from any sources of light pollution.
Sure, the Namtib Biosphere Reserve is a little out of the way, but that’s a turn-on for me. If you feel the same and you’re self-sufficient when you camp, I can highly recommend the setting.
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If you’re feeling energetic, there’s a hiking trail and a botanical trail, or you can ask at reception about going on a nature drive. But for us the two highlights were the joy of doing nothing but absorb the peace in a pristine environment, and gazing at the gazillions of bright stars far away from any sources of light pollution.
Sure, the Namtib Biosphere Reserve is a little out of the way, but that’s a turn-on for me. If you feel the same and you’re self-sufficient when you camp, I can highly recommend the setting.
Like it? Pin this image!
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
Desert Horse Campsite and Namibia's wild horses
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More about Namibia
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
