By Roxanne Reid
We’re walking across a low bridge over a water channel to Duba Explorers Camp. Elephants are browsing in the reeds to our right, a striped kingfisher perched on the railing. On a raised deck ahead are the smiling faces of Duba’s staff. It’s the start of another Okavango Delta safari here in Botswana and we couldn’t be happier.
We’re walking across a low bridge over a water channel to Duba Explorers Camp. Elephants are browsing in the reeds to our right, a striped kingfisher perched on the railing. On a raised deck ahead are the smiling faces of Duba’s staff. It’s the start of another Okavango Delta safari here in Botswana and we couldn’t be happier.
Duba Explorers Camp lies in the 33 000-hectare Duba Plains Concession in the north-east of the Okavango Delta. The Delta is a special ecosystem of marshlands and seasonal flood plains, fed by waters that come all the way from the Angolan Highlands. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s home to an abundance of wildlife like lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant, cheetah, wild dog, zebra, giraffe and a profusion of antelope.
Water is the lifeblood of the Okavango Delta and the Duba Plains Concession
So why should you include Duba Explorers Camp on your visit to Okavango Delta lodges? Duba Explorers is basically the old Duba Expedition Camp renamed and relocated. Once the premier Duba Plains Camp was expanded, Great Plains Conservation decided it would be too ‘crowded’ to have maybe four or five vehicles from two camps sharing the same patch of the concession, so they moved Duba Expedition to the north of the concession and renamed it Duba Explorers. As a result, you won’t see vehicles from any other camp on your game drives – something that preserves the special wilderness ambience of your Okavango Delta safari.
The main area
The main area of Duba Explorers Camp consists of a lounge and dining room under an elegant curve of canvas marquee. The lounge is a comfy space of couches and chairs in harmonious brown leather and neutral-toned upholstery, of wood-and-brass campaign chests, wine barrels turned into stools, carved tables and small sculptures.
The main area
The main area of Duba Explorers Camp consists of a lounge and dining room under an elegant curve of canvas marquee. The lounge is a comfy space of couches and chairs in harmonious brown leather and neutral-toned upholstery, of wood-and-brass campaign chests, wine barrels turned into stools, carved tables and small sculptures.
The main sitting area
Crowning it all are black and white photos of elephants and a wild dog by Beverly Joubert, who apart from being a National Geographic wildlife photographer, is also the driving force behind every piece chosen for the camp. Use the lounge to relax or enjoy high tea before a game drive or mokoro trip down the water channel.
There’s a large raised deck in front with a fire pit where safari chairs are set in a semi-circle in the evening before dinner. The weather was good when we visited so we enjoyed our lunches and dinners here under jackalberry trees, sometimes with a view of elephants feeding to the tune of branches cracking not far away.
There’s a large raised deck in front with a fire pit where safari chairs are set in a semi-circle in the evening before dinner. The weather was good when we visited so we enjoyed our lunches and dinners here under jackalberry trees, sometimes with a view of elephants feeding to the tune of branches cracking not far away.
High tea before the game drive
It’s also here that we enjoyed an amazing five-course tasting menu one night, with many sophisticated touches. Think vegetable sushi roll with ginger and chilli syrup, wasabi mayo and squid ink tuille. Think Chinese sticky duck breast with granadilla sauce, and chocolate fondant with curried chocolate sauce and pine nut semifreddo. As you can tell, food is a highlight here at Duba Explorers.
As a special treat after dinner, the staff mounted a show of singing and dancing. It was perfect, from the rhythms and warmth of the performance to the smiling faces and evident delight of both dancers and their audience – the two of us, a family of four Americans on their first trip to Africa, and a honeymoon couple from Edinburgh, who had never been to Botswana before. All were thrilled with their experience, not just the food and the singing, but the wildlife sightings on their Okavango safari too. The Americans were already planning a return trip.
As a special treat after dinner, the staff mounted a show of singing and dancing. It was perfect, from the rhythms and warmth of the performance to the smiling faces and evident delight of both dancers and their audience – the two of us, a family of four Americans on their first trip to Africa, and a honeymoon couple from Edinburgh, who had never been to Botswana before. All were thrilled with their experience, not just the food and the singing, but the wildlife sightings on their Okavango safari too. The Americans were already planning a return trip.
An unmatched setting for delicious meals like you'd expect in a top restaurant
Tucked below the deck and the dining area is a small ‘beach’ of river sand on the edge of the water, with easy chairs and an upside-down mokoro (traditional dugout canoe) forming a barrier that you shouldn’t wander beyond. Each space in camp has its own special qualities, and this one was particularly peaceful.
Good news for anyone interested in supporting sustainable travel is that like all Great Plains Conservation camps across Botswana, Zimbabwe and Kenya, Duba Explorers Camp uses clean solar energy. You won’t find single-use plastic here either (you get a refillable metal water bottle, for instance), and if the camp were to be taken apart today there’d be no trace of it within a few months.
Good news for anyone interested in supporting sustainable travel is that like all Great Plains Conservation camps across Botswana, Zimbabwe and Kenya, Duba Explorers Camp uses clean solar energy. You won’t find single-use plastic here either (you get a refillable metal water bottle, for instance), and if the camp were to be taken apart today there’d be no trace of it within a few months.
Friendly staff on the bridge in front of Duba Explorers Camp (from left): Yarobi Shoma, Gakedlebale Mothibi, Ipontsheng Ndando and Forembi Salepito.
The tents
Duba Explorers has an appealing intimacy, with just five expedition-style canvas tents built on raised decks under woodland waterberry, jackalberry and mangosteen trees that provide shade for at least part of the day.
Like the main area, each is designed and furnished with an impeccable eye for detail by Great Plains Conservation photographer and film maker duo Dereck and Beverly Joubert. The style is reminiscent of safari expeditions of the old days, with dark wood, brass and pewter finishes. Think king-size bed with crisp white linen and blue accents as well as an enveloping mosquito net for a four-poster look, a large wooden chest at the foot of bed, a wood-and-brass writing desk and tea chest. In the bathroom, you’ll find double brass basins and sweeping curtains with leather tie-backs to separate a giant shower and flush loo from the dressing area.
Duba Explorers has an appealing intimacy, with just five expedition-style canvas tents built on raised decks under woodland waterberry, jackalberry and mangosteen trees that provide shade for at least part of the day.
Like the main area, each is designed and furnished with an impeccable eye for detail by Great Plains Conservation photographer and film maker duo Dereck and Beverly Joubert. The style is reminiscent of safari expeditions of the old days, with dark wood, brass and pewter finishes. Think king-size bed with crisp white linen and blue accents as well as an enveloping mosquito net for a four-poster look, a large wooden chest at the foot of bed, a wood-and-brass writing desk and tea chest. In the bathroom, you’ll find double brass basins and sweeping curtains with leather tie-backs to separate a giant shower and flush loo from the dressing area.
Our tent overlooking a water channel
Each tent has a wide deck with sofa (or day bed) where you can look out over a water channel filled with water lilies. It’s a cool and peaceful place to rest for a while and – since the camp is unfenced – you won’t be surprised to get a visit from some wildlife. From our deck we saw red lechwes feeding, impalas bounding through the water, baboons cavorting in mid-morning madness, and lots of birds. We also heard hippos trumpeting from the channel in front of our tent at night.
From the bedroom looking out towards the deck and the water
Double brass basins and dark wood in the bathroom
We loved it, feeling enveloped by nature and wildlife without the barrier of a fence. It’s quite safe to walk from your tent to the main area during daylight if you keep your eyes open, but after dark you need to wait for a escort from one of the guides who is trained to be alert to wildlife signs and sounds at all times. Sometimes, they explained, porcupine, hyena, leopard or lion wander through the camp at night, but we felt totally safe in their hands.
Afternoon drive
On our first game drive with guide Lets Ngoma we started out gently with sightings of green woodhoopoe, zebras, red lechwe and common reedbuck, then escalated to buffalos and elephants.
Then, there in a dry tree, a leopard lay draped on a branch, legs and tail dangling. The soft late afternoon sun lit her perfectly.
We watched entranced for 15 minutes. Suddenly her gaze focused on a reedbuck not far away. She stared and calculated for a while, then climbed down the tree and began stalking with intent. After a few metres during which she calculated the wind direction, she started to make a wide arc around the buck so it didn’t smell her approach. We lost sight of her in the long grass. There were some tense moments – wanting it for the leopard but not wanting it for the reedbuck. Then the reedbuck trilled a few high-pitched whistles and bounded away. It had spotted or smelled her and the game was up.
Afternoon drive
On our first game drive with guide Lets Ngoma we started out gently with sightings of green woodhoopoe, zebras, red lechwe and common reedbuck, then escalated to buffalos and elephants.
Then, there in a dry tree, a leopard lay draped on a branch, legs and tail dangling. The soft late afternoon sun lit her perfectly.
We watched entranced for 15 minutes. Suddenly her gaze focused on a reedbuck not far away. She stared and calculated for a while, then climbed down the tree and began stalking with intent. After a few metres during which she calculated the wind direction, she started to make a wide arc around the buck so it didn’t smell her approach. We lost sight of her in the long grass. There were some tense moments – wanting it for the leopard but not wanting it for the reedbuck. Then the reedbuck trilled a few high-pitched whistles and bounded away. It had spotted or smelled her and the game was up.
Leopard in a tree
Rumbled, the leopard turned and walked calmly off, used to this outcome. Only 14% to 38% of leopard hunts are successful. We followed her for another 10 minutes to a small patch of water where she drank. Thirst slaked, she returned to the track and padded steadily forward to mount a termite mound to scan for other prey. Nothing. Down she came and made a beeline for a fallen tree branch. Again she climbed for a better vantage point. Again she saw nothing.
By now it was almost dark and we had a long way to go back to camp even though Lets said she’d probably hunt something else that night.
On the drive back, Lets spotted two honey badgers right on the side of the road, frantically digging with their long claws under a bush. Using the spotlight with its red filter to minimise disturbance to the animals, we saw sand fly backward until one badger almost completely disappeared down the hole it was digging. Rump and back legs were all that were visible. When it reversed out again, it had caught a snack. We could hear the crunching but couldn’t see properly what it was – perhaps a scorpion with a crispy exoskeleton.
By now it was almost dark and we had a long way to go back to camp even though Lets said she’d probably hunt something else that night.
On the drive back, Lets spotted two honey badgers right on the side of the road, frantically digging with their long claws under a bush. Using the spotlight with its red filter to minimise disturbance to the animals, we saw sand fly backward until one badger almost completely disappeared down the hole it was digging. Rump and back legs were all that were visible. When it reversed out again, it had caught a snack. We could hear the crunching but couldn’t see properly what it was – perhaps a scorpion with a crispy exoskeleton.
Despite the 2019 drought, there was still lots of water in the northern part of the Duba Concession
Morning drive
It was dawn and a thick cloud of dust stretched across the veld in front of us. An enormous buffalo herd was on the move. The buffalos crossed the track ahead of us, silhouetted against the rising sun, pink and red shades behind them as they walked through the tall yellow turpentine grass. They don’t eat turpentine grass, but were nibbling on shorter green grasses as they moved. Surrounded by them, we noticed how many calves there were. ‘See how the males are in front, at the back and to the sides, to protect the females and calves,’ said Lets.
It was dawn and a thick cloud of dust stretched across the veld in front of us. An enormous buffalo herd was on the move. The buffalos crossed the track ahead of us, silhouetted against the rising sun, pink and red shades behind them as they walked through the tall yellow turpentine grass. They don’t eat turpentine grass, but were nibbling on shorter green grasses as they moved. Surrounded by them, we noticed how many calves there were. ‘See how the males are in front, at the back and to the sides, to protect the females and calves,’ said Lets.
Duba Explorers Camp guide Lets Ngoma
He estimated the herd was about 200 strong. With tsessebe to our left and the call of an African fish-eagle in the distance, this is what an African safari is all about; moments when things come together with a synergy that makes them magical.
Meyer’s parrots flitted from tree to tree calling out with their high-pitched whistle, coppery-tailed coucals hopped about in the marshland and a malachite kingfisher flashed its jewel-like colours as we stopped to listen to a black-collared barbet and a crested barbet calling from the same tree.
Before long we found a second big herd of buffalos drinking at a large patch of water, elephants with calves forming a counterpoint in the background. Seeing two Big Five animals at one sighting is always special. We watched the buffalos for a long time, mostly peacefully drinking, some of them with all fours in the water. Once or twice a mooing scuffle broke out but was soon over. There must have been about 400 buffalos between the two large groups of buffalo we saw that morning. ‘There are lots of buffalo in this area now,’ Lets nodded, ‘because water has dried up elsewhere in the drought.’
Meyer’s parrots flitted from tree to tree calling out with their high-pitched whistle, coppery-tailed coucals hopped about in the marshland and a malachite kingfisher flashed its jewel-like colours as we stopped to listen to a black-collared barbet and a crested barbet calling from the same tree.
Before long we found a second big herd of buffalos drinking at a large patch of water, elephants with calves forming a counterpoint in the background. Seeing two Big Five animals at one sighting is always special. We watched the buffalos for a long time, mostly peacefully drinking, some of them with all fours in the water. Once or twice a mooing scuffle broke out but was soon over. There must have been about 400 buffalos between the two large groups of buffalo we saw that morning. ‘There are lots of buffalo in this area now,’ Lets nodded, ‘because water has dried up elsewhere in the drought.’
Buffalos drinking, part of a herd of about 200
He knew of a wild dog den not far away; would we like to see if they were there? Of course we would. ‘If they ate last night they should be relaxing at the den,’ he said. We found the alpha female and alpha male near the den where, according to Lets, they were protecting three-week old pups that wouldn’t come to the surface for at least another week or two.
The rest of the pack hunts then regurgitates food for them all, including the alpha pair. Lets said he’d seen them come back a few days earlier with no food to regurgitate. ‘The alpha female was lowering her head and making the call to regurgitate but they had no food.’ When they didn’t produce the goods, she started nipping and biting them, not pleased. She knows she needs food to make milk for the pups.
The rest of the pack hunts then regurgitates food for them all, including the alpha pair. Lets said he’d seen them come back a few days earlier with no food to regurgitate. ‘The alpha female was lowering her head and making the call to regurgitate but they had no food.’ When they didn’t produce the goods, she started nipping and biting them, not pleased. She knows she needs food to make milk for the pups.
Alpha female wild dog near the den where she had stashed her puppies
Wild dogs use the old burrows of aardvark as their dens, but dig them bigger. For safety, the pups are kept quite far from the entrance. The adults tend to close up the entrance hole to make it smaller and harder for predators to get in while they’re out, then dig it open it again when they want access.
While we were watching the two alphas, we heard the alarm calls of baboons further away so Lets decided to investigate. ‘It could be a lion,’ he said. ‘Usually, when they bark with five-second intervals it could be a lion or wild dog or hyena. If it’s a leopard they just keep barking nonstop.’
While we were watching the two alphas, we heard the alarm calls of baboons further away so Lets decided to investigate. ‘It could be a lion,’ he said. ‘Usually, when they bark with five-second intervals it could be a lion or wild dog or hyena. If it’s a leopard they just keep barking nonstop.’
One of a coalition of four lions
We found some waterbuck and impala very alert. We were nosing around looking for lion tracks when the guide in the camp’s other vehicle radioed to say they’d followed tracks and found the lions. Four males lay in the shade of a few blue bushes, two of them with very fat tummies, the other two not so much. Whatever they’d killed hadn’t been big enough for all four, so the less dominant two got only a small share.
It had been a great morning, with sightings of wild dogs and three of the Big Five. It’s one of the reasons we love the Okavango Delta and are in awe of the Great Plains Conservation guides, who deliver time and time again.
Things to do at Duba Explorers Camp
Go on a game drive
It had been a great morning, with sightings of wild dogs and three of the Big Five. It’s one of the reasons we love the Okavango Delta and are in awe of the Great Plains Conservation guides, who deliver time and time again.
Things to do at Duba Explorers Camp
Go on a game drive
Game drives here are as much about the landscapes and waterscapes as about the wildlife
At Duba Explorers Camp, you have a chance to go on a game drive twice a day – first in the early morning and then late in the afternoon. These are the times when animals are most active. My favourite kind of morning drive is when the chefs pack ‘breakfast on the go’ in the vehicle, and you take a mid-morning break to enjoy the muffins, muesli, fruit, croissants and eggs before continuing with your game drive.
The late afternoon game drive might include sundowner drinks somewhere with a great view, or you might be enjoying so many wonderful sightings that you all agree to skip the drinks and keep watching animals. (That’s what happened on our drive when we saw the leopard.) You usually arrive back at camp after dark, so you fit in a little bit of a night drive as well. This is the time when you might spot nocturnal animals like lion, leopard, spotted hyena, genet, honey badger and owls. If you don’t enjoy spending time in the open safari vehicle on the lookout for wildlife, you don’t deserve to be here!
Enjoy a guided walking safari
Getting out of camp on foot is rewarding, especially if you’re staying in one place for three or four days. Change up the activities by opting for a morning walk instead of a game drive one day. Safe in the hands of your guide, you’ll learn about some of the small wonders of the bush, plants that are used by locals as food and medicine. It’s also a time to smell the wild sage, feel the texture of leaves, and listen for the alarm calls of baboons and birds, telling you (or at least your guide) what’s going on around you.
Don’t miss a mokoro ride
The late afternoon game drive might include sundowner drinks somewhere with a great view, or you might be enjoying so many wonderful sightings that you all agree to skip the drinks and keep watching animals. (That’s what happened on our drive when we saw the leopard.) You usually arrive back at camp after dark, so you fit in a little bit of a night drive as well. This is the time when you might spot nocturnal animals like lion, leopard, spotted hyena, genet, honey badger and owls. If you don’t enjoy spending time in the open safari vehicle on the lookout for wildlife, you don’t deserve to be here!
Enjoy a guided walking safari
Getting out of camp on foot is rewarding, especially if you’re staying in one place for three or four days. Change up the activities by opting for a morning walk instead of a game drive one day. Safe in the hands of your guide, you’ll learn about some of the small wonders of the bush, plants that are used by locals as food and medicine. It’s also a time to smell the wild sage, feel the texture of leaves, and listen for the alarm calls of baboons and birds, telling you (or at least your guide) what’s going on around you.
Don’t miss a mokoro ride
Experience the sounds of nature on a mokoro ride
A mokoro ride is a must on every Okavango Delta safari – the iconic Okavango experience. Take to the water in your dugout canoe and slip effortlessly along, gently poled by your guide in a fashion reminiscent of the gondoliers of Venice. It’s a time to slow down and notice small things like water lilies on the surface of the water, water birds like African jacanas, and tiny frogs clinging to the reeds. You may also pass some elephants feeding on a nearby bank. Take your camera and binos to make the most of your time on the water, the change of pace and the new perspective of Okavango wildlife that it gives you.
Go bird-watching
The Okavango Delta is home to more than 460 species of birds, including Pel’s fishing-owl, African fish-eagle, wattled crane, slaty egret, African skimmer and saddle-bill stork. You can enjoy birding during your game drives, mokoro ride or walking safari, but keeping your eyes open around camp is also a chance to spot birds. Even from the deck of your tent you might see birds like bee-eaters, African jacanas, kingfishers and more.
Indulge in superb food
Go bird-watching
The Okavango Delta is home to more than 460 species of birds, including Pel’s fishing-owl, African fish-eagle, wattled crane, slaty egret, African skimmer and saddle-bill stork. You can enjoy birding during your game drives, mokoro ride or walking safari, but keeping your eyes open around camp is also a chance to spot birds. Even from the deck of your tent you might see birds like bee-eaters, African jacanas, kingfishers and more.
Indulge in superb food
If you love good food, executive chef Ernest Masambo (centre) and chefs Forembi Salepito and Onosi Keeditswe are your best friends in camp
I’ll say it again, the food at Duba Explorers is top-notch. Executive chef Ernest Masambo and chefs Forembi Salepito and Onosi Keeditswe consistently wowed us with the flavours, the variety and the presentation, meal after meal. And there’s lots of it too, so the temptation to overeat is huge. As if breakfast, lunch and dinner aren’t enough, there’s high tea before your game drive and snacks with your sundowners too. This is another reason you may want to burn off some energy on a guided walking safari (see above).
Immerse yourself in nature
Take some time to sit and take notice of your surroundings and the sounds of the wild that envelop you. Whether you park yourself in the main area or on the deck of your tent, try to tune out everything but the natural surroundings and you’ll be surprised by how much you can hear, smell and see, from birds to tiny lizards and skinks, from the sound of hippos arguing to that of red lechwe gently splashing through a water channel.
Immerse yourself in nature
Take some time to sit and take notice of your surroundings and the sounds of the wild that envelop you. Whether you park yourself in the main area or on the deck of your tent, try to tune out everything but the natural surroundings and you’ll be surprised by how much you can hear, smell and see, from birds to tiny lizards and skinks, from the sound of hippos arguing to that of red lechwe gently splashing through a water channel.
Sit on your deck and enjoy nature (photo by David Rogers for Great Plains Conservation)
Note: We were guests of Duba Explorers Camp for two nights, but I had free rein to write what I chose. We paid for all travel costs.
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
