By Roxanne Reid
We’d spent a morning in Etosha National Park, listening to the low rumblings of elephants, the frenzied i-hah, i-hah of zebras and the loud tink, tink, tink of blacksmith lapwings. Now we were listening to the tinkling of ice in our gin and tonics and watching from the sunset deck at Etosha Safari Lodge as the sky caught fire.
We’d spent a morning in Etosha National Park, listening to the low rumblings of elephants, the frenzied i-hah, i-hah of zebras and the loud tink, tink, tink of blacksmith lapwings. Now we were listening to the tinkling of ice in our gin and tonics and watching from the sunset deck at Etosha Safari Lodge as the sky caught fire.
The terrace at Etosha Safari Lodge is enormous, bigger than an Olympic swimming pool I’m sure. But its finest feature is a wooden deck on stilts that pokes out about ten metres into the mopaneveld and gives a great view of the setting sun. That evening it seemed as if every guest had gathered there to enjoy the spectacle. Below the deck is a small waterhole where bokkies and birds can come to drink.
Find the lodge just 10km south of Andersson Gate, which makes for easy access to Etosha National Park. Stay here and make daily forays into the park, or treat yourself to a few nights before or after your stay inside the park.
The main entrance to the reception and dining areas
Etosha Safari Lodge is a sister to Etosha Safari Camp, only a hop, skip and jump away. But it couldn’t be more different. Gone is the funky township vibe, replaced here with classic safari elegance.
The huge reception area roosts on a koppie, giving a 180-degree view from the dining area and terrace across the natural bush towards Etosha National Park. Four giant fireplaces make a statement in the inside dining and bar area, though they weren’t lit when we were there, the winter nights still being warm enough to eat outside in May.
The huge reception area roosts on a koppie, giving a 180-degree view from the dining area and terrace across the natural bush towards Etosha National Park. Four giant fireplaces make a statement in the inside dining and bar area, though they weren’t lit when we were there, the winter nights still being warm enough to eat outside in May.
A ribbon of chalets looks out over the mopane woodland towards Etosha National Park
Separate chalets are laid out in clusters below the hill, along winding roads and paths. Inside you’ll find dark wood and crisp white linen, midnight blue throws, a small writing desk, a tea station that includes the luxury of a coffee press, and a leather armchair. Beaten metal lamps in the shape of elephant heads add a safari touch, with blue-and-yellow tiles and a huge shower in the bathroom.
Each chalet is a separate entity among the natural bush
Our room looking towards the stoep
Double doors at the front lead to a narrow private veranda where we sat the next morning as the first fingers of dawn flushed the sky and the early birds began to chirp.
Things to do at Etosha Safari Lodge
1. Go on a guided drive to Etosha
Things to do at Etosha Safari Lodge
1. Go on a guided drive to Etosha
Black-backed jackal in the early morning golden light
The Big Kahuna around here, of course, is Etosha National Park – and the Andersson entrance gate is only about 10km away. Go on a half-day guided game drive into Etosha, either early in the morning or in the afternoon. Your fee includes refreshments and entry into the park.
We headed out with guide Otto straight after an early breakfast. Our first sightings inside the gate were two jackals soaking up the morning sun, a red hartebeest and two secretary birds stomping through the veld in search of breakfast. We found and followed black rhino tracks for a few kilometres along the dusty road until they disappeared into the bush where we couldn’t follow. (You’re not allowed to go offroad in the national park.)
Small herds of zebras grazed here and there and we watched two northern black korhaans take to the air with a clattering of noise. We saw a kori bustard – Namibia’s largest flying bird – stomp through the veld towards some oryx (gemsbok), which to me are among the most beautiful antelope, so African with their strong black, white and grey markings.
We headed out with guide Otto straight after an early breakfast. Our first sightings inside the gate were two jackals soaking up the morning sun, a red hartebeest and two secretary birds stomping through the veld in search of breakfast. We found and followed black rhino tracks for a few kilometres along the dusty road until they disappeared into the bush where we couldn’t follow. (You’re not allowed to go offroad in the national park.)
Small herds of zebras grazed here and there and we watched two northern black korhaans take to the air with a clattering of noise. We saw a kori bustard – Namibia’s largest flying bird – stomp through the veld towards some oryx (gemsbok), which to me are among the most beautiful antelope, so African with their strong black, white and grey markings.
The lodge's safari vehicles match the white pan and have zebra-like stripes
After a toilet stop at Okaukuejo where we checked the famous in-camp waterhole for anything exciting, we struck out at a fair lick along a corrugated road in the direction of Okondeka. Otto heard lions had been on a wildebeest kill and we were going in search of them. By the time we got there about 30 minutes later, there was nothing left but a slick of blood and a lone jackal picking through the stomach contents. No lions in sight.
Otto thought they might still be in the area so we continued north for a few more kilometres, eagerly scanning the veld for any sign of them. We found them sleeping in the shade of some mopane trees near a large depression with the remnants of rain water. Wildebeest snorted nearby, gemsbok crossed the road towards the water, and a small group of zebras obviously wanted a drink too. But none dared come too close to the predators. The lions – a female and four young males sprouting the beginnings of manes – ignored the wildebeests’ moaning; they didn’t care if the animals wanted to drink, their stomachs were too full for them to move.
You can also do a full- day guided game drive, which lets you to range a little further afield in the park.
2. Self-drive into Etosha
Otto thought they might still be in the area so we continued north for a few more kilometres, eagerly scanning the veld for any sign of them. We found them sleeping in the shade of some mopane trees near a large depression with the remnants of rain water. Wildebeest snorted nearby, gemsbok crossed the road towards the water, and a small group of zebras obviously wanted a drink too. But none dared come too close to the predators. The lions – a female and four young males sprouting the beginnings of manes – ignored the wildebeests’ moaning; they didn’t care if the animals wanted to drink, their stomachs were too full for them to move.
You can also do a full- day guided game drive, which lets you to range a little further afield in the park.
2. Self-drive into Etosha
Elephants at Nebrownii waterhole take on the whitish colour of the mud in the area
We also love to self-drive into Etosha. This gives us the freedom to visit some of our favourite waterholes in the area like Ombika, Okaukuejo, Gemsbokvlakte (great for plains game), Homob and Nebrownii (with a chance of seeing elephants like white stone statues from the mud, as well as six or seven other species at the same time). The camp at Okaukuejo – where you’ll want to stop to check the camp’s famous waterhole for any action – is usually buzzing with tour groups and coaches, so it’s a relief to return to the peace of Etosha Safari Lodge.
3. Go for a guided nature walk
Go for a guided nature walk on the lodge’s 23 000-hectare section of the Etosha Conservancy. The walk lasts about two hours and is a gentle nature ramble rather than a march, a time to reconnect with nature, spot tracks and signs of giraffe, zebra, black-faced impala and the tiny dik dik. You’ll also learn about some of the trees and shrubs like mopane, thorn trees and purple pod terminalia, as well as some of their medicinal uses.
4. Walk around camp in search of birds
3. Go for a guided nature walk
Go for a guided nature walk on the lodge’s 23 000-hectare section of the Etosha Conservancy. The walk lasts about two hours and is a gentle nature ramble rather than a march, a time to reconnect with nature, spot tracks and signs of giraffe, zebra, black-faced impala and the tiny dik dik. You’ll also learn about some of the trees and shrubs like mopane, thorn trees and purple pod terminalia, as well as some of their medicinal uses.
4. Walk around camp in search of birds
Go birding for a chance to see one of these sparrowhawks or other birds
If you like, you can walk on your own to enjoy the surrounding mopane woodland. Birds you might see along the way include weavers, waxbills and hornbills, as well as spurfowl, northern black korhaan and the odd small raptor.
5. Go for a swim
5. Go for a swim
The swimming pool at the main area
If you’re hot when you get back from your drive or walk (and believe me, the area can be hot during the day even in winter), cool off in one of three swimming pools. There’s one at the main area below the sunset deck and one each among the chalets that unravel on either side of the main area.
6. Don’t miss sundowners on the sunset deck
6. Don’t miss sundowners on the sunset deck
Sunsets from the sunset deck are always spectacular
Don’t miss sundowners on the sunset deck on stilts for a wrap-around view over one of Namibia’s epic sunsets; colours range from deep red and hot orange to warm apricot, softening to blush-pink before it fades to grey and then black. We tried some of the locally made craft gins called Desolate – a name that reflects the stark landscapes of this beautiful country. My favourite was the one infused with hints of marula fruit.
7. Enjoy dinner on the deck
7. Enjoy dinner on the deck
Romantic lighting on the deck where you enjoy a good dinner
Enjoy a fairy-light illuminated dinner on the deck after sunset and listen to the lyrical sound of double-banded sandgrouse as they fly in to the waterhole just after dark. Dinner is served buffet style so you can choose what you like best from the vast array of salads, veggies and meats. My favourites were the vegetarian lasagna, springbok ragout, beetroot with sesame seeds, butternut salad, and lemon cheesecake dessert. All of it is as fresh as can be, even though you’re not exactly near a big city. The secret is that The Gondwana Collection has a few of its own veggie patches that supply their lodges.
8. Watch the sunrise
Get up early one morning and make a cup of coffee in your chalet. Then sit on the deck to watch the sunrise creep up on you. Half the joy of being on safari is seeing wildlife; the other half is slowing down to become attuned to the rhythms of nature.
9. Go glamping
8. Watch the sunrise
Get up early one morning and make a cup of coffee in your chalet. Then sit on the deck to watch the sunrise creep up on you. Half the joy of being on safari is seeing wildlife; the other half is slowing down to become attuned to the rhythms of nature.
9. Go glamping
Each glamping tent has four beds so is perfect for either couples or families
Fancy the idea of camping without the hassle? Go glamping in one of the permanent tents that stand among the natural bush a short distance from the chalets at Etosha Safari Lodge. You get everything you need for a happy stay, from proper beds and flushing toilets to a braai and kitchen equipment so that you can self-cater. If you prefer, there’s a Camping2Go menu to do some of the hard work for you. It includes garlic bread, braaibroodjies really for the fire, salads, and a meat pack. You’re also welcome to book for dinner with the lodge guests if you prefer. If not, surrender to the quiet and admire the stars that fill the night sky.
10. Pitch your own tent
10. Pitch your own tent
Traditional pitch-your-own-tent camping is available at the sister camp next door
If you’d prefer to pitch your own tent, then Etosha Safari Campsite next door – also within a few kilometers of Andersson Gate into Etosha National Park – is the place to do that. You get a shady, grassed campsite with all the necessary communal kitchens and ablutions, but you need to bring everything else yourself, from your food and utensils to your tent.
Warm, friendly atmosphere
Despite the chic sophistication of this classic safari lodge, there was nothing stuffy about it. The staff are warmly friendly, with ready smiles. I enjoy it when members of staff have the self-confidence to engage in chat with us; it makes my day. And here it was a particular pleasure that everyone – from reception to waiters, chefs and barmen – was happy to shoot the breeze when they weren’t busy.
Let’s face it, when accommodation and food are good, it’s only people and personality that make a visit one of a kind.
You may also enjoy
How to enjoy Etosha Safari Camp’s energetic township vibe
Etosha National Park, Namibia: the ultimate guide
12 of the best waterholes at Etosha National Park, Namibia
Etosha King Nehale: feel like royalty at Etosha National Park
Like it? Pin this image!
Warm, friendly atmosphere
Despite the chic sophistication of this classic safari lodge, there was nothing stuffy about it. The staff are warmly friendly, with ready smiles. I enjoy it when members of staff have the self-confidence to engage in chat with us; it makes my day. And here it was a particular pleasure that everyone – from reception to waiters, chefs and barmen – was happy to shoot the breeze when they weren’t busy.
Let’s face it, when accommodation and food are good, it’s only people and personality that make a visit one of a kind.
You may also enjoy
How to enjoy Etosha Safari Camp’s energetic township vibe
Etosha National Park, Namibia: the ultimate guide
12 of the best waterholes at Etosha National Park, Namibia
Etosha King Nehale: feel like royalty at Etosha National Park
Like it? Pin this image!
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