Etosha Safari Lodge: classic safari style

By Roxanne Reid
Tinkle, tinkle. After a day in Etosha National Park, listening to the low rumblings of elephants, the frenzied i-hah, i-hah of zebras and the loud klink, klink, klink of blacksmith lapwings, I turned, expecting to find a new bird. But it was the tinkling of the drinks trolley being wheeled out onto the sunset deck at Etosha Safari Lodge.

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The terrace at Etosha Safari Lodge was enormous, bigger than an Olympic swimming pool I’m sure. But its finest feature was a wooden deck on stilts that poked out about 10 metres into the mopaneveld and gave a great view of the setting sun. That evening it seemed as if every guest had gathered there to enjoy the spectacle. Below the deck was a small waterhole where giraffe, kudu, zebra and bokkies can come to drink. 

The sunset deck in the morning, no hint yet of the magic to come

Drinks on the deck at sunset are a special tradition here

Etosha Safari Lodge is a sister to Etosha Safari Camp, only a hop, skip and jump away. But it couldn’t be more different. Gone is the funky township vibe, replaced here with classic safari elegance. The huge reception area perches on a koppie, giving a 180-degree view from the dining area and terrace across the veld towards Etosha National Park. 

The deck in the late afternoon sun, solar lights lined up and ready to light up the darkness

The chalets are laid out in clusters below the hill, along winding roads and paths. Inside we found dark wood and crisp white linen, two small writing desks with safari chairs. There was also a narrow private veranda where we sat the next morning as the first fingers of dawn flushed the sky and the birds began to chirp.

Classic safari style came complete with wide views over the conservancy

The rooms are laid out in clusters among the natural vegetation

Dinner was served buffet style on the veranda. And it was good. My favourites were the pita-bread with melted cheese, the roast kudu, beef in piquant gravy, gratin potatoes, delicious avo salad, mushroom salad and the berry cheesecake dessert. All of it was as fresh as you could find anywhere, even though we weren’t exactly near a big city. The Gondwana Collection has a secret weapon at Stampriet – a self-sufficiency centre that apparently supplies 70% of all Gondwana lodges’ needs for veggies, meat, cheese and yoghurt. Cool.

Cool off in a pool where you can see forever

What’s there to do?
The lodge is on a 23 000-hectare section of the Etosha Conservancy. There are some short walks if you want to enjoy the surrounding mopane woodland; you can even do the 3km trail to Etosha Safari Camp. If you’re hot when you get back (and believe me, even in winter the area can be hot during the day), cool off in one of three swimming pools. 

Elephants at Okaukuejo waterhole, Etosha National Park, just a short drive away

But of course the big kahuna around here is definitely Etosha National Park, and the Anderson entrance gate is only about 10km away. The lodge offers half-day or guided game drives to Etosha, but we chose to go in our own car. This gave us the freedom to visit some of our favourite waterholes in the area like Ombika, Okaukuejo, Gemsbokvlakte, Nebrownii and Homob. The camp at Okaukuejo was buzzing with tour groups and coaches, so it was a relief to return to the peace of Etosha Safari Lodge. 

Another view of the gigantic deck, with the dining area on the left and the sunset deck off to the right

Warm, friendly atmosphere
Despite the chic sophistication of this classic safari lodge, there was nothing stuffy about it. Lodge manager Simon Andreas moved around checking that everything was running smoothly. He’s been with Gondwana for 16 years and feels strongly about the need for good service in tourism. ‘We play games with the staff to teach and motivate them,’ he said. For staff who want to further their careers, there’s plenty opportunity to grow too. 

Lodge manager Simon Andreas (top centre) and guest relations staff members Hilya Gotlieb and Helvi Amukwa (bottom right), with a few of the lodge's decor touches, such as wood carvings and bright safari-themed cushions

This leadership style is clearly working if the friendly smiles and warm welcome we experienced are anything to judge by. I enjoy it when members of staff have the self-confidence to engage in chat with us; it makes my day. And here it was a particular pleasure that everyone – from reception staff to waiters, chefs and barmen – was happy to shoot the breeze when they weren’t busy.

Let’s face it, when accommodation and food are good, it’s only people and personality that make your visit one of a kind.

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