Roxanne Reid - Africa Addict
  • Home
  • Book author
    • Travels in the Kalahari >
      • Photo gallery: Travels in the Kalahari
      • Book reviews: Travels in the Kalahari
    • A Walk in the Park >
      • Photo gallery: A Walk in the Park
      • Book reviews: A Walk in the Park
    • The Essential Guide to Self-Editing >
      • Book reviews: Essential Guide to Self-Editing
    • Betrayed
    • Book reviews online
  • Editing & proofreading
  • In the media
    • Travel features
    • Health features
    • Online media
  • Blog
  • Testimonials
  • Links
  • Contact

Highlights of Kenya’s Maasai Mara

12/7/2017

18 Comments

 
Hot air ballooning in Kenya's Maasai Mara
By Roxanne Reid
To lovers of safari and wildlife, the words Maasai Mara conjure scenes of abundant game and endless plains dotted with trees. This national reserve in southwest Kenya is some 1510 square kilometres, or 2500 square kilometres if you count the surrounding conservancies – a riot of cinematic vistas, plains game and big cat sightings. Here are some highlights of our visit to Kenya’s Maasai Mara.

Little Governors Camp
Little Governors Camp in Kenya's Maasai Mara
When you stay at Little Governors Camp (part of the Governors Camp Collection) inside the Masaai Mara National Reserve, you get the excitement of crossing over the Mara River in a little ferry to get to camp and then again to return to your vehicle for game drives. The steep steps on either side of the river are good exercise, helping to work off the abundance of good food you gobble in camp. Lunch was served under green-heart trees overlooking a plain where you might watch waterbuck, giraffes and elephants finding their own food, and our tent had a private deck overlooking a marsh area where hippo and warthogs came to visit.

Mini migration
Wildebeest, Kenya's Maasai Mara
​Being surrounded by hundreds of wildebeest on the plains, all grunting to assert their dominance in this rutting season, gave us a taste of what the noise must be like with some 1.5m wildebeest during the peak of the migration (but luckily without peak season’s crowds of people). We also saw how even these resident wildebeest wavered about crossing the river; if one went left the others followed, but then a zebra would go right and they’d turn to follow the other way. To and fro they went, not sticking with a decision, not really getting anywhere.​

​Hot air balloon
Hot air ballooning in Kenya's Maasai Mara
Photo courtesy of Governors Balloon Safaris
We were lucky to fly in a hot air balloon with Governors Balloon Safaris over Kenya’s Maasai Mara, over antelope, spotted hyena, buffalo and giraffe. People who went the following day even saw a leopard. The balloon set off from behind Little Governors Camp where we were staying. This meant we could wake up a bit later than people coming from other camps, in time to be airborne at first light. We flew low enough to spot animals from above, see hippos in the winding Mara River, but climbed to 1000 feet at the end for a 360-degree turn that showed off the scale of this reserve, with the Oloololo escarpment to the west. That’s where we had a champagne breakfast after landing, an amazing spread cooked up in a tiny makeshift kitchen on site.

Mara Expedition Camp
Mara Expedition Camp in Kenya's Maasai Mara
Great Plains Conservation’s Mara Expedition Camp is a wonderfully intimate place with just five tents looking out over lush riverine vegetation and the muddy Ntiaktiak River in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy bordering the national reserve. We had a wooden deck with safari chairs and wine-barrel tables, old-fashioned safari cases masquerading as bedside tables and tree branches serving as hooks in bathroom. It was still warm in the evenings so we ate our meals under forest mahogany, magic gwarrie and African green-heart trees.

River crossing point
River crossing point in Kenya's Maasai Mara
Guide Nick Ratia took us to one of the crossing points on the Mara River, where we found eight giraffes, some elephants, a huge raft of hippos basking half submerged in the water, and some large crocs. This is where all the action of the migration would be in a few weeks’ time (we were there in early June), but we were glad to experience it without the mayhem of dying animals and a multitude of vehicles all jostling for position. Instead, we had a peaceful picnic lunch set up on the edge of the river.

A feast of lions
Lions in Kenya's Maasai Mara
Twelve members of the Topi Plains pride of lions on the move, including various sub-adults and a small cub of about two-and-a-half months, struggling to keep up. Two young male lions on a wildebeest kill near camp. Fourteen lions with seven cubs of varying ages, wrestling, play tackling and having a tug-of-war with a stick. And finally, a pair of mating lions oblivious of our presence. This was a typical day or two for us in the Mara.

Leopards
Leopard in Kenya's Maasai Mara
We had two fabulous leopard sightings in the Maasai Mara. One leopard had an impala kill in a tree, the other we found walking around in the bushes before she climbed a dead tree for a better view of her surroundings, three legs and her tail dangling. Our guide said she had two young cubs hidden away in the bushes somewhere, not quite old enough to come out into the wider world. This came on the heels of sightings of lions and cheetahs – all in our first 24 hours in the Olare Motorogi conservancy area, where one of the biggest advantages is being allowed to drive off-road to get closer to great sightings.

Cheetah cub
Cheetah with cub in Kenya's Maasai Mara
We found a mother cheetah and her cub lying in the open, the late afternoon sun just right. Over the next three days we spent about four hours watching them, the cub suckling, chewing on a baby gazelle mom had caught, blood up to its eyebrows until mom licked it clean again. Frisky in the early morning cool, the cub pounced on what was left of the carcass, a small rock, a tuft of grass, then rolled over and bit mom’s tail. 

​Mara Plains Camp
Dinner setting at Mara Plains Camp in Kenya's Maasai Mara
To get to Great Plains Conservation’s Mara Plains Camp in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy, you cross a wood-and-rope suspension bridge over the Ntiaktiak River. As you mount the stairs to the main area, the widescreen view of open Mara plains smacks you in the face. There’s a library stuffed with books about natural history, comfy leather couches in the lounge and a large deck. Our ‘tent’ (if such a grand space can be called a tent) had red rugs, a leather desk, old travelling chests as bedside tables, and a folding steamer chest as a wardrobe – all old pieces that have been refurbished. A carved Lamu door formed the backing for the shower with its copper and brass pipes while a copper bath looked out over the river and the plains beyond. It was a joy to sit on the deck and enjoy the sounds of hippos snuffling below, leaves rustling and birds calling.

Hyena cubs
Hyena cub in Kenya's Maasai Mara
Spotted hyenas are amazing animals and good moms too. What better than a sighting of a group of 15 of them in the late afternoon sun, including some cubs of around six months and one of less than four months (you could tell because it was still brown, without spots). We watched the greeting and subservience behaviour, with lots of sniffing at the hind quarters. We spent about an hour with them while the smallest showed its curiosity about the world, sniffing the vehicle, investigating termite mounds and small shrubs, biting and playing with a stick.

Picnic meals on the plains
Picnic in Kenya's Maasai Mara
When you go out on an early morning game drive from Mara Expedition or Mara Plains camps, your guide takes along a packed breakfast. Then the plains of the Maasai Mara become your restaurant as you find a safe place in an open area, under a lone tree. And so the feast begins, to celebrate the morning’s sightings of cheetah, elephant, topi, buffalo, grunting wildebeest and more lions than you could have imagined. Definitely a safari to remember.

​Did you enjoy the article? Pin this image!
Highlights of Kenya's Maasai Mara nature reserve and conservancies, its wildlife, camps and hot air ballooning
You may also enjoy
Highlights of the Chyulu Hills, Kenya
Highlights of lakes Naivasha and Nakuru in Kenya
10 reasons to visit the Serengeti in Tanzania on safari

Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
18 Comments
Stefan
12/7/2017 11:17:48 pm

Did you find it worth the effort. Kenya is such a long way from the States. From your blog the game viewing and the camps seems excellent. I follow you on Facebook and enjoy your journeys.

Reply
Roxanne
13/7/2017 08:51:49 am

Stefan, it was definitely worth the effort and we had some amazing sightings and experiences. We didn't travel quite as far as you would have to from the States, but Kenya is a fabulous safari destination that you shouldn't miss. Make the most of your time and combine it with Tanzania's Serengeti, and a gorilla trek in Rwanda or Uganda.

Reply
Andy
13/7/2017 10:47:33 pm

Cool ballon pic. Looks like a part of "around the world in 80 days". You were lucky to get so close to the cheetah mother and cub. Good photographic material.

Reply
Roxanne
15/7/2017 12:17:28 pm

Indeed, Andy, "around the world in 80 days" came to my mind up there too. I felt like some 19th century princess. As for the cheetah cub, it was fab - I had to stop myself from squeaking, and squeaking is not usually my thing :-)

Reply
Liza
13/7/2017 10:50:56 pm

What a trip. Roxanne, when are you ever at home? You certainly lead an interesting life! Your blogs are awesome.

Reply
Roxanne
14/7/2017 10:26:05 am

Ha ha, Liza, we're at home more often than we're away! Thanks for reading my blogs posts and also for your positive comment. It means a lot.

Reply
Jade
15/7/2017 10:31:54 am

Every time I see a post about Africa and particularly Kenya I am instantly drawn to it. I was fortunate enough to have lived in Kenya for over 2 years and there is something so magical about the place that it stays in your soul forever. One of my most favourite trips was to the Maasai Mara. Just a few nights there will give you memories to last a lifetime.

Reply
Roxanne
15/7/2017 10:34:28 am

Ah, Jade, how I envy you those two years in Kenya. Although I live in Africa, this was my first time to Kenya - after a lifetime of dreaming about it - and it sure didn't let me down.

Reply
Ella link
15/7/2017 10:57:26 am

This post takes me back 2.5 years when I did a safari in the Maasai Mara. It was such an incredible experience and I even was lucky enough to have seen the Big 5! The hot air balloon ride looks amazing and I'm sure the views of the Maasai Mara were spectacular :)

Reply
Roxanne
15/7/2017 12:15:15 pm

Ah, Ella, that will be me two years from now! So many wonderful sightings and people to remember, and a special balloon trip as the cherry on top.

Reply
Anna link
15/7/2017 12:09:33 pm

This is fantastic! I've been looking for places to stay in the Masai Mara that are quite boutique, and you've given me loads to look at! Thanks so much for sharing.
Oh and! You are SO lucky to have seen cheetah cubs!

Reply
Roxanne
15/7/2017 12:13:59 pm

Always happy to be of inspirational value, Anna! And yes, the cheetah cub was possibly my favourite highlight of all.

Reply
Susan Portnoy link
15/7/2017 03:12:07 pm

I'm a huge fan of the Masai Mara. I've enjoyed it immensely every time I've gone. You did a great job of encapsulating a visit. Thanks for sharing!

Reply
Roxanne
15/7/2017 03:32:22 pm

Thanks for reading, Susan. It was my first time in the Mara but I certainly don't intend for it to be my last. It's a classic destination for anyone who's mad about wildlife and loves beautiful landscapes.

Reply
continentalsafaris link
2/11/2017 03:34:41 pm

Good to see this amazing post here, Thanks for sharing with us....

Reply
Roxanne
2/11/2017 03:37:28 pm

You're welcome, it's an amazing place.

Reply
Kenya safari link
27/2/2018 03:47:23 pm

An excellent article which definitely reinforces that Masai Mara is an African magical gem. Worth a visit while on a visit to Kenya.

Reply
Roxanne
27/2/2018 03:52:07 pm

Thanks, I couldn't agree more. A classic safari destination.

Reply

Your comment will be posted after it is approved.


Leave a Reply.

    Get email links to the latest posts

    Buy my books
    Travels in the Kalahari, amazon.com e-book
    E-book 2012​

    A Walk in the Park, amazon.com e-book
    2nd ed e-book 2015
    The Essential Guide to Self-Editing, amazon.com e-book
    E-book 2017

    About 

    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
    My travel buddy and husband Keith is the primary photographer for this blog.
    We're happiest in the middle of nowhere, meeting the locals, trying something new, or simply watching the grass grow.
    Use this website to discover new places to go, revisit places you've loved, or take a virtual tour of destinations you only dream about.

    Categories

    All
    Baviaanskloof
    Books
    Botswana
    Camping
    Cape Town
    Chobe
    Conservation
    Drc
    Eastern Cape
    Etosha Namibia
    Food
    Free State
    Garden Route
    Gauteng
    Issues
    Kalahari
    Karoo
    Kenya
    Kruger National Park
    Kwazulu Natal
    Lesotho
    Limpopo
    Linyanti
    Madagascar
    Malawi
    Mozambique
    Mpumalanga
    Namaqualand
    Namibia
    Nature Parks
    Northern Cape
    Okavango
    Overberg
    People
    Photography
    Richtersveld
    Tanzania
    West Coast
    Western Cape
    Wild Creatures
    Zambia
    Zimbabwe

    Archives

    March 2025
    February 2025
    January 2025
    November 2024
    October 2024
    September 2024
    August 2024
    July 2024
    June 2024
    May 2024
    April 2024
    March 2024
    February 2024
    January 2024
    November 2023
    October 2023
    September 2023
    August 2023
    July 2023
    June 2023
    May 2023
    April 2023
    March 2023
    February 2023
    January 2023
    November 2022
    October 2022
    September 2022
    August 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    May 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    November 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    June 2013
    May 2013
    April 2013
    March 2013
    February 2013
    January 2013
    December 2012
    November 2012
    October 2012
    September 2012
    August 2012
    July 2012
    June 2012
    May 2012
    April 2012
    March 2012
    February 2012
    January 2012
    December 2011
    November 2011
    October 2011
    September 2011
    August 2011
    July 2011
    June 2011
    May 2011
    April 2011
    March 2011
    February 2011
    January 2011
    December 2010
    November 2010
    October 2010
    September 2010
    August 2010
    July 2010
    June 2010
    May 2010
    April 2010
    March 2010
    January 2010
    November 2009


Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without written permission from roxannereid.co.za

Privacy Policy, GDPR and POPIA compliance
​* We promise that we take data safety seriously and use your private data only to offer a personalised experience
* If you subscribed to our newsletter, you will receive our newsletters. You can always unsubscribe by following the link in email or by emailing us
* If you gave us your name, it will only be used to personalise the newsletters
* We have never sold, we are not selling, and we will not sell any of your personal data provided to us
* The blog uses cookies to track activity. It is anonymous except for telling us your location and what you did on our blog
​
Photos from berniedup, Lucy_Hill