How to get stuck in the Richtersveld

By Roxanne Reid
‘Knock, knock, anyone there?’ It was our last afternoon at the Tatasberg wilderness camp in the Richtersveld Transfrontier Park and a young woman with a toddler in her arms had come to ask if we had a tow-rope. Her overconfident hubby had ventured into the riverbed with a 2x4 and discovered how to get stuck in deep sand. We were about to find that no good deed goes unpunished.

---

That this man had got stuck is a reminder that no one should take the Richtersveld lightly. It’s all too easy to think you’re invincible, but making a mistake here can be deadly so it doesn’t pay to be stupid or too much of a risk taker. 
 
Although you may be just 50 or 60km from the park’s offices, there’s no cell phone reception so you can’t call for help. Even if you had the foresight to bring a satellite phone (and you definitely should), it may take them a good few hours to get to you, that’s how rough and slow the 4x4 tracks are here.

If you get stranded inland in summer, when daytime temperatures regularly get above 50ºC, you’d better be carrying lots of water. If not, you’re going to get seriously dehydrated before the rescue party arrives.

If you don't have a GPS and good map, these route markers are all that lie between you and getting lost

In fact, unless you’re a Nama herder who has lived in the area your whole life, it’s not a good idea to venture here without sturdy 4x4 vehicle, some recovery equipment, plenty of water and a good GPS loaded with appropriate software. Although the route markers have improved since we were last here about eight years ago, it’s still best to have a reliable GPS, and to plot the waypoints before you go.

The Richtersveld is arid mountain desert where sunsets are vivid and flowers grow out of rock

Luckily for this young family, they got stuck within sight of the Tatasberg camp, so mum could walk the 400m or so to get help while dad tried to dig his way out. Hot and red in the face, she had already asked around at the three other cabins without success. Now she was pinning her hopes on us.

Stuck fast in deep sand, he was trying to dig himself out

Anyone who knows my hubby has usually mocked him at least once or twice for all the spares and emergency recovery equipment he carries in the middle of nowhere. Funny, though, how often others have had to rely on him to get them out of a hole. This crisis made five the number of people he’s bailed out of trouble – without once having to use that equipment for his own needs (touch wood).

Neither of these vehicles was carrying a tow rope. Using ours, the bakkie was soon pulled out of trouble

Off he rode, a knight in shining armour. What he found was a bakkie stuck fast in thick sand along the dry riverbed, and the driver digging with his hands. Nearby he also found a ranger with a vehicle but no tow-rope. 
 
So he hauled out his tow-rope and his shovel and they set to work. In no time, the bakkie was free and racing over the sand for the camp, not daring to stop to say thank you in case he got stuck again.

Free at last, he revs at high speed up to the camp, too scared to lose momentum

Later, mum brought a beer to say thank you; she was the most grateful of the three. The toddler obviously didn’t have a clue, and dad was too busy laughing and saving face by blaming the vehicle, the ranger, anything but himself for coming here in a 2x4 in the first place.

Luckily, the incident ended well for them. But as so often happens, no good deed goes unpunished; hubby tore the crotch of his jeans when he bent down to render help of the digging variety.

Pity he hadn’t thought to pack a spare pair in his toolbox!

The jeans torn in the service of others

More about the Richtersveld

Copyright © Roxanne Reid. No words or photographs may be used without written permission from www.roxannereid.co.za