Dining room By Roxanne Reid
Crack! An elephant was breaking trees about 20 metres away from our campsite. The next night it was hippos crunching grass even closer by while hyenas whooped in the distance. That’s how it went at Croc Valley campsite at Mfuwe, just outside Zambia’s premier South Luangwa National Park.
Crack! An elephant was breaking trees about 20 metres away from our campsite. The next night it was hippos crunching grass even closer by while hyenas whooped in the distance. That’s how it went at Croc Valley campsite at Mfuwe, just outside Zambia’s premier South Luangwa National Park.
The manager told us that two nights earlier a leopard had killed a baboon and strung it up a tree about 200 metres away from where we were camping. The camp, you see, was within the conservancy area (or Game Management Area) and therefore unfenced. Brilliant.
The setting along the Luangwa River was perfect, allowing us to sit looking out onto water birds, hippos and a few crocs lazing in the sun on a dry bank.
Our campsite at Croc Valley consisted of a patch of green grass under a big Natal mahogany tree, a thatched shelter with a wooden picnic table and a plug point. With clean ablutions and a swimming pool nearby, there was nothing else any self-respecting camper could have wanted. If we felt sociable, there was even an open-air bar at the other end of the campsite where we could chill and mix with other travelers from all over the world.
The setting along the Luangwa River was perfect, allowing us to sit looking out onto water birds, hippos and a few crocs lazing in the sun on a dry bank.
Our campsite at Croc Valley consisted of a patch of green grass under a big Natal mahogany tree, a thatched shelter with a wooden picnic table and a plug point. With clean ablutions and a swimming pool nearby, there was nothing else any self-respecting camper could have wanted. If we felt sociable, there was even an open-air bar at the other end of the campsite where we could chill and mix with other travelers from all over the world.
Shady campsite with a view
Hammocks hung here and there under the trees, and vervet monkeys got their kicks by jumping on them as if they were trampolines, getting thrown off and coming back for more. It was like watching a breakfast show on TV, only better. You had to guard your food around them though, because a turned back would draw out their kleptomaniac tendencies.
The mahogany trees provided welcome shade in the afternoon heat. We’d been careful not to pitch camp under a sausage tree dripping two-foot long pods that may have been about to drop to ground. We didn’t want one bashing us on the head or making a huge dent in our car. They are useful, though. They provide food in the dry season for hippo, baboons and buck, and they have antiseptic properties and an extract is used for skin cancer. A local guide also hinted delicately that Zambians use it for ‘male potency’ – a kind of bush Viagra.
The mahogany trees provided welcome shade in the afternoon heat. We’d been careful not to pitch camp under a sausage tree dripping two-foot long pods that may have been about to drop to ground. We didn’t want one bashing us on the head or making a huge dent in our car. They are useful, though. They provide food in the dry season for hippo, baboons and buck, and they have antiseptic properties and an extract is used for skin cancer. A local guide also hinted delicately that Zambians use it for ‘male potency’ – a kind of bush Viagra.
The view from our campsite
For people who weren’t into camping, there were chalets at Croc Valley too, with an attractive thatched A-frame dining area, open-air lounge and bar area that overlooked the river. There were comfy chairs and benches for spending some time watching the river too.
On our first night a TV set was blaring Mythbusters, which I enjoy at home but seemed so wrong in the middle of natural Africa. Fortunately, there was a power outage and we had 20 minutes of blissful silence and starlight until the staff got the backup generator going.
On our first night a TV set was blaring Mythbusters, which I enjoy at home but seemed so wrong in the middle of natural Africa. Fortunately, there was a power outage and we had 20 minutes of blissful silence and starlight until the staff got the backup generator going.
You can get excellent Mosi beer or even a meal at the bar which overlooks the river
Luckily we’d come prepared with gas cookers and battery lights, because it was our second of five power outages in our fortnight in Zambia. But it seemed so insignificant at the time, besotted as we were with the friendly people, the colourful villages and the wildlife at South Luangwa National Park.
Have you been to Zambia? And did you fall under its spell too? I’d love to hear about your experiences – good or bad – in the comments below.
Have you been to Zambia? And did you fall under its spell too? I’d love to hear about your experiences – good or bad – in the comments below.
An open-air area for lounging in
Need to know
1. South Africans don’t need a visa to enter Zambia.
2. Anyone going to Zambia via South Africa needs a yellow fever inoculation.
3. Croc Valley camping costs US$11.20-13.40, depending on whether you travel in green season or peak season (July to October). If self-catering camping isn't your thing, there are also chalets, rooms and bush tents from around $20-$60 per person sharing per night. Meals are also available in the restaurant. [Prices updated in December 2017.]
4. Find out more about Zambia.
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1. South Africans don’t need a visa to enter Zambia.
2. Anyone going to Zambia via South Africa needs a yellow fever inoculation.
3. Croc Valley camping costs US$11.20-13.40, depending on whether you travel in green season or peak season (July to October). If self-catering camping isn't your thing, there are also chalets, rooms and bush tents from around $20-$60 per person sharing per night. Meals are also available in the restaurant. [Prices updated in December 2017.]
4. Find out more about Zambia.
Like it? Pin this image!
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