By Roxanne Reid
Mamre village lies about 30km north of Cape Town, between Darling and Atlantis in the Western Cape. As lovers of old buildings, we’d visited the historical centre of Mamre before, but this time we had a heritage map with us when we set off to experience the Mamre sights and sounds on the West Coast.
Mamre village lies about 30km north of Cape Town, between Darling and Atlantis in the Western Cape. As lovers of old buildings, we’d visited the historical centre of Mamre before, but this time we had a heritage map with us when we set off to experience the Mamre sights and sounds on the West Coast.
We parked our car and stepped into the sunshine. The sound of singing wafted from the old Moravian mission church that’s the centre of the historical part of Mamre. At first we thought the choir was rehearsing for Sunday service the next morning. But a few moments later people poured through the church doors and stood in the sun to sing a last hymn before a coffin draped with a white cloth was hoisted onto strong shoulders.
Mourners leaving the Mamre mission church
Then the long walk to the cemetery on top of the hill behind the church began. Signs stuck to the walls declared that no vehicles were allowed up there, so although a hearse had brought the coffin to the church, it was carried all the way up by people on foot. A slow draggle of mourners followed, splitting into small groups as they climbed, then reassembling around the grave.
It was a reminder that, historic though the Mamre church is, it’s still a vital part of everyday modern life here.
It was a reminder that, historic though the Mamre church is, it’s still a vital part of everyday modern life here.
Walking to the cemetery on the hill
It was a lovely day to explore, to appreciate the old and stately Mamre werf (yard or precinct). Unlike some parts of old Stellenbosch, where restorations can be almost too perfect, here the patina of age on the paintwork and the grizzled thatch made Mamre seem more authentic, more lovable.
Horses grazing in the green fields of Mamre
A horse whinnied nearby; over the road in a green field sprinkled with arum lilies three of them were grazing under the oak trees. Two skinny women, drunk as can be, wobbled up the road towards the church shouting and swearing at a scruffy grey dog that didn’t seem to care.
A motorbike roared noisily across the veld as two young men showed off their skills. Young boys, desperately trying to be cool, were shooting the breeze as they smoked on top of a rock between the watermill and the cemetery. Others, still happy to be children, were using the main road near the mill as a go-kart track, their shouts and laughter filling the air. Just another Saturday afternoon in Mamre.
A motorbike roared noisily across the veld as two young men showed off their skills. Young boys, desperately trying to be cool, were shooting the breeze as they smoked on top of a rock between the watermill and the cemetery. Others, still happy to be children, were using the main road near the mill as a go-kart track, their shouts and laughter filling the air. Just another Saturday afternoon in Mamre.
Local kids having fun on a Saturday afternoon
The Mamre heritage walk
Mamre was established as a Moravian mission station in 1808, the second in the Western Cape after Genadendal near Greyton (1738). Other well known Moravian mission stations in the province include Elim near Bredasdorp (1824) and Wupperthal in the Cederberg (1830).
Mamre was established as a Moravian mission station in 1808, the second in the Western Cape after Genadendal near Greyton (1738). Other well known Moravian mission stations in the province include Elim near Bredasdorp (1824) and Wupperthal in the Cederberg (1830).
The parsonage
The parsonage is Mamre’s oldest building, dating back to 1679. Willem van der Stel lived here when he came to Groene Kloof to establish a military outpost for the Dutch East India Company. Groene Kloof was renamed Mamre (altar to the Lord) in 1854.
The long house
The long house (1697) behind the parsonage served as a military barracks during the days when the Dutch East India Company (DEIC) had a military outpost here. The DEIC thought it necessary to try to keep the peace between the indigenous Khoikhoi and the Dutch farmers they’d given permission to graze their cattle here.
The Moravian mission church, Mamre
The Moravian mission church (1818) is the fifth-oldest church building in South Africa. For the first decade of the mission station’s existence, sermons were preached outside under the trees. The church, parsonage and the other buildings that make up the Mamre werf – like the old school, bakery, long house, shop and mill – were declared national monuments in 1967.
The 'ou winkel', now a restaurant
The old shop (ou winkel) next to the parsonage was built in 1880 and today it’s home to the Tori Oso restaurant. We stopped there for milkshakes and carrot cake, served in enormous slices we could easily have shared. It offers meals too, and it’s open from Tuesday to Sunday. On our Saturday afternoon visit only two tables were taken, but after church on Sundays it’s usually busy so you should book ahead, tel 072 9723539.
The mill
The mill was originally built in 1830 as a horse mill but converted to a water mill in 1839.
Want to enjoy your own self-guided heritage walk in Mamre? West Coast Way has produced a handy little map showing the main attractions. Download the map here before you go.
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Want to enjoy your own self-guided heritage walk in Mamre? West Coast Way has produced a handy little map showing the main attractions. Download the map here before you go.
Like it? Pin this image!
More about the West Coast
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
