It had been a long day of travelling when we arrived at Ngepi Camp near Divundu in the Caprivi, Nambia. It was dark by the time we'd pitched camp. So I had to take an open-air shower. In the dark. By torchlight. Among all those bushes and mozzies and creepy-crawlies. It wasn’t my best moment. But I soon succumbed to the view and the zany humour of the place.