By Roxanne Reid
Rain clouds were gathering when we arrived at Mokala National Park about 75 kilometres southwest of Kimberley in the Northern Cape. We smelled the hot earth and watched the sky darken as we rushed to set up camp before the first big splats fell. Although we were by no means newbies at this Kalahari thornveld park, it was our first time at Mokala’s Motswedi campsite.
Rain clouds were gathering when we arrived at Mokala National Park about 75 kilometres southwest of Kimberley in the Northern Cape. We smelled the hot earth and watched the sky darken as we rushed to set up camp before the first big splats fell. Although we were by no means newbies at this Kalahari thornveld park, it was our first time at Mokala’s Motswedi campsite.
Motswedi is a special space, just six sites in a semi-circle around a waterhole, with your own private ablutions and kitchen under gas/solar power. A low solar-powered fence around the perimeter provides safety from animals like buffalo so you don’t need to keep looking over your shoulder.
Our site was on one end, with a fine view out over the waterhole. A stately kudu bull and a few warthog came to drink while we were setting up camp. A wagtail came to see what we were up to, a barbet and a woodpecker flitted through the camelthorn that provided some shade. Luckily, the rain held off till we were organised.
Our site was on one end, with a fine view out over the waterhole. A stately kudu bull and a few warthog came to drink while we were setting up camp. A wagtail came to see what we were up to, a barbet and a woodpecker flitted through the camelthorn that provided some shade. Luckily, the rain held off till we were organised.
Each site looks out over the waterhole, a perfect place to sit and drink in the view
But it wasn’t all good luck; on our first night we had to share what should have been one of the most peaceful campsites in the country with a big group that included five noisy small kids, sprawling between two sites next to us.
Because we have no small kids of our own, we resent the noisy intrusion when we go to a place of nature. We also resent their parents for not teaching them about the magic of nature and how to respect its quiet. If we had our way, kids under 12 wouldn’t be allowed at camps like Motswedi. End of rant.
Because we have no small kids of our own, we resent the noisy intrusion when we go to a place of nature. We also resent their parents for not teaching them about the magic of nature and how to respect its quiet. If we had our way, kids under 12 wouldn’t be allowed at camps like Motswedi. End of rant.
Each site has its own private kitchen, shower and loo, screened off from that of the neighbours
After a night of unrelenting rain we woke to a world washed clean, the red dust settled and the skies still brooding. We took a game drive towards Lilydale camp, wanting to stop at the Stofdam bird hide that overlooks a small waterhole. No luck; it was still closed for repair after flood damage. From here the route took us along the Doornlaagte and Kameeldoring loops, where we saw roan – a rare and endangered species – as well as tsessebe, springbok and steenbok.
Campsite no. 6 at sunset, with the waterhole in the distance on the right
Back on the main route to Lilydale a throng of hartebeest were drinking at a small dam while a warthog family enjoyed a mud bath. We stopped for a simple lunch at Lilydale and the skies had cleared by the time we started the drive back to Motswedi, when we added buffalo, kudu, blesbok and waterbuck to our tick list. A staffer told us waterbuck shouldn’t actually be in the park because they didn’t occur here naturally in the past, so they’ll be phased out over time.
The true luxury of Motswedi is having only five neighbours and your own private waterhole
Our second night at Motswedi was how it should be, quiet, peaceful and beautiful, just the sound of jackals yipping and ostriches booming lion-like in the distance. A rustle might announce the arrival of an antelope at the waterhole, but the sounds of people were blissfully understated and suitably reverent, so we could all enjoy the privilege that is Motswedi.
The next day we had the joy of watching busy little meerkats near the main Mosu camp, with a second meerkat sighting late in the afternoon as we returned from the Matopi picnic site. We also shared a peaceful interlude with a pair of giraffe on the Tsessebe Loop. The road to the Haak & Steek cottage is now closed with a boom, which makes sense to give you peace if you’re staying there. If you’re not, like us, it was frustrating not to be able to gain access to the great little waterhole at the old campsite down that road.
The next day we had the joy of watching busy little meerkats near the main Mosu camp, with a second meerkat sighting late in the afternoon as we returned from the Matopi picnic site. We also shared a peaceful interlude with a pair of giraffe on the Tsessebe Loop. The road to the Haak & Steek cottage is now closed with a boom, which makes sense to give you peace if you’re staying there. If you’re not, like us, it was frustrating not to be able to gain access to the great little waterhole at the old campsite down that road.
Adult red hartebeest match the red Kalahari sand at Mokala, but calves are born much lighter
On our last morning, we had to pack up in the rain – soft at first and then bucketing down, till I was wet and hubby dripping and sloshing. As a reward for that inconvenience we spotted two eland dash across the gravel road and another small family of meerkat on our drive to the exit gate. Our final fabulous sighting was outside the park, at the Kamfersdam near Kimberley – thousands of flamingo spread out over the shallow water like a pink carpet.
Mokala has big game like rhino and buffalo, but look out for smaller animals, tracks and signs too
Do you agree or disagree with my rant about small children at a 'wilderness' campsite like Motswedi? Share your thoughts in the comments below.
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
First timer’s guide to Mokala National Park
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
