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Motswedi campsite at Mokala National Park

1/4/2015

22 Comments

 
Motswedi campsite, Mokala National Park
By Roxanne Reid
Rain clouds were gathering when we arrived at Mokala National Park about 75 kilometres southwest of Kimberley in the Northern Cape. We smelled the hot earth and watched the sky darken as we set up camp before the first big splats fell. Although we were by no means newbies at this Kalahari thornveld park, it was our first time at Mokala’s Motswedi campsite.

Motswedi is a special space, just six sites in a semi-circle around a waterhole, with your own private ablutions and kitchen under gas/solar power. A low solar-powered fence around the perimeter provides safety from animals like buffalo so you don’t need to keep looking over your shoulder.

Our site was on one end, with a fine view out over the waterhole. A stately kudu bull and a few warthog came to drink while we were setting up camp. A wagtail came to see what we were up to, a barbet and a woodpecker flitted through the camelthorn that provided some shade. Luckily, the rain held off till we were organised. 
Motswedi campsite, Mokala National Park
Each site looks out over the waterhole, a perfect place to sit and drink in the view
But it wasn’t all good luck; on our first night we had to share what should have been one of the most peaceful campsites in the country with a big group that included five noisy small kids, sprawling between two sites next to us.

Because we have no small kids of our own, we resent the noisy intrusion when we go to a place of nature. We also resent their parents for not teaching them about the magic of nature and how to respect its quiet. If we had our way, kids under 12 wouldn’t be allowed at camps like Motswedi. End of rant. 
Motswedi campsite, Mokala National Park
Each site has its own private kitchen, shower and loo, screened off from that of the neighbours
After a night of unrelenting rain we woke to a world washed clean, the red dust settled and the skies still brooding. We took a game drive towards Lilydale camp, wanting to stop at the Stofdam bird hide that overlooks a small waterhole. No luck; it was still closed for repair after flood damage. From here the route took us along the Doornlaagte and Kameeldoring loops, where we saw roan – a rare and endangered species – as well as tsessebe, springbok and steenbok.
Motswedi campsite, Mokala National Park
Campsite no. 6 at sunset, with the waterhole in the distance on the right
Back on the main route to Lilydale a throng of hartebeest were drinking at a small dam while a warthog family enjoyed a mud bath. We stopped for a simple lunch at Lilydale and the skies had cleared by the time we started the drive back to Motswedi, when we added buffalo, kudu, blesbok and waterbuck to our tick list. A staffer told us waterbuck shouldn’t actually be in the park because they didn’t occur here naturally in the past, so they’ll be phased out over time. 
Motswedi, campsite, Mokala National Park
The true luxury of Motswedi is having only five neighbours and your own private waterhole
Our second night at Motswedi was how it should be, quiet, peaceful and beautiful, just the sound of jackals yipping and ostriches booming lion-like in the distance. A rustle might announce the arrival of an antelope at the waterhole, but the sounds of people were blissfully understated and suitably reverent, so we could all enjoy the privilege that is Motswedi.

The next day we had the joy of watching busy little meerkats near the main Mosu camp, with a second meerkat sighting late in the afternoon as we returned from the Matopi picnic site. We also shared a peaceful interlude with a pair of giraffe on the Tsessebe Loop. The road to the Haak & Steek cottage is now closed with a boom, which makes sense to give you peace if you’re staying there. If you’re not, like us, it was frustrating not to be able to gain access to the great little waterhole at the old campsite down that road.
Mokala National Park
Adult red hartebeest match the red Kalahari sand at Mokala, but calves are born much lighter
On our last morning, we had to pack up in the rain – soft at first and then bucketing down, till I was wet and hubby dripping and sloshing. As a reward for that inconvenience we spotted two eland dash across the gravel road and another small family of meerkat on our drive to the exit gate. Our final fabulous sighting was outside the park, at the Kamfersdam near Kimberley – thousands of flamingo spread out over the shallow water like a pink carpet.
Mokala National Park
Mokala has big game like rhino and buffalo, but look out for smaller animals, tracks and signs too
Do you agree or disagree with my rant about small children at a 'wilderness' campsite like Motswedi? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

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Related posts
First timer’s guide to Mokala National Park

Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
Motswedi Campsite, Mokala National Park #SouthAfrica #nationalparks #travel
Motswedi Campsite, Mokala National Park #SouthAfrica #nationalparks #travel
22 Comments
Mary
2/4/2015 04:59:15 am

It's a hard one. If kids are not allowed them as parents we can't enjoy those special outdoor places. I suppose it depends on what your reference point of peaceful is.

Reply
Roxanne link
4/4/2015 04:36:23 am

Point taken, Mary, but if parents don't teach their children to be quiet and respectful, then the rest of us "can't enjoy those special outdoor places" either.

Reply
Sakkie
2/4/2015 07:50:54 am

Roxanne, We stayed at Haak-en-Steek a few days after Christmas in 2012. From the moment we arrived we could feel the special ambience of the place. Motswedi must have a special ambience too. It is a pity that people do not understand the value and purpose of a place like Motswedi. There is nothing more upsetting when humans break the peace and quiet to ruin the intimacy of your connection with nature. Maybe campsites should be rated in accordance with aesthetic values that allow for stricter rules to be applied at camps or campsites that have high aesthetic values. I agree that children under a certain age should not be allowed at campsites like Motswedi.

Reply
Roxanne link
4/4/2015 04:43:12 am

Ah, Sakkie, it's such a pity that you can't camp at Haak-en-Steek anymore unless you book the cottage as well (though I do understand why management has made that decision). It's a very special spot - as is Motswedi. Thanks for being in my corner. But I suppose the real issue is not so much small children themselves as parents who aren't teaching them about what you call "the intimacy of your connection with nature" and therefore spoiling it for others.

Reply
Sakkie
3/4/2015 08:20:42 pm

Haak-en-Steek and Motswedi have a special ambience. Nothing more to dislike when camp users disturb the peace by their behaviour. Camps and camping areas should be categorised based on their aesthetic values. Those with higher aesthetic values should have stricter criteria in terms of the dynamics of the people using it - at least children under a certain age should not be allowed at places such as Motswedi.

Reply
Adam
28/6/2017 12:17:21 am

Hi Roxanne, Thanks for the great description and photos of Motswedi Camp Site. I have a 4 year old son who we took to Kruger for the first time when he was 2. It was of course mostly for us but he loved it. The issue with trying to teach a child to do something that doesn't come naturally to them is that its damn hard work and impossible to do 24/7. Much less difficult in a bungalow or camp site than on the 14-hour flight from Australia where there's no escape from annoyed adjacent passengers. I had some great success with my daughter (now grown up) when she was three and we took her on a one hour tour of the Yellow-eyed Penguins in Dunedin NZ. It was essential to be quiet and I promised to leave the tour if she played up, which she didn't. But my son is a totally different proposition. I can usually encourage him to be quiet in a bird hide when other people are present, but only for 10 minutes or so. But if there's no one there we take the opportunity to stretch our legs and let off steam. We couldn't keep him quiet at a camp site in fact the opposite we'd need to encourage him to let off some steam. So I take your point that perhaps there probably should be some "quiet" camp sites.

Reply
Roxanne
28/6/2017 09:42:08 am

Thanks for your comments, Adam. I do understand the difficulties you mention. Thanks for recognising, though, that quiet campsites should be an option for those not travelling with small kids.

Reply
Brenda
19/7/2017 01:36:15 pm

Hi Roxanne. Is the campsite ok for caravans to get to? And not the rugged off road caravan, just a standard caravan? Or would you not recommend it?

Reply
Roxanne
19/7/2017 02:09:11 pm

I would say so, Brenda. The road isn't bad but you may have to go really slowly in patches if it has been raining. Hard for me to tell because I've only used a 4x4 caravan at Motswedi. If anyone else has made it with a normal road van, please leave a comment here for Brenda.

Reply
hester van eeden
6/1/2018 02:14:41 pm

If people cant keep their children in control. They must rather visit ATKV resorts, whith a swimming pool and entertainment for their noisy kids

They are very irritating. I have grand children. But will definetly teach them how to appreciate Nature

Reply
Roxanne
6/1/2018 02:25:41 pm

Good for you, Hester, if everyone taught their kids and grandkids to appreciate nature and be considerate of other people, there would be no problems in our beautiful national parks.

Reply
Thys
27/2/2018 08:08:55 am

We do have a motorhome (not 4 x4) and want to visit Mokala campsite. Is it possible?

Reply
Roxanne
27/2/2018 08:51:39 am

No problem, Thys. There are a few 4x4 trails you won't be able to do in the park and the other roads are a bit rough in places, but you'll be fine if you take it slowly. You won't regret it - the campsite is magnificent.

Reply
D Olivier
29/9/2018 10:26:03 am

Were do i do Bookings

Reply
Alan Lee link
25/12/2018 06:14:46 am

I live on a nature reserve with my two young children, 7 and 5. Because I am an ornithologist and of where we live, these 2 children appreciate nature probably more than most children anywhere: we interact with nature every day from dawn to dusk. However, they also make a noise because they are children. They make noise BECAUSE they appreciate nature ‘DADDY DADDY COME LOOK AT THIS… OOOH A PAINTED LADY!!!’ ‘A CRAB SPIDER…’. Yes, sometimes they make noise because they are doing something else. Telling children to keep quite to appreciate nature really isn’t teaching an appreciation of nature. The noise is an expression of excitement and fun, real interaction with the world around them rather than watching it tv like through a car window. Telling children to suppress their excitement will create resentment which will manifest in a lack of appreciation of nature. Regarding making noise at Mokala: well, it doesn’t appear there is another camping option? And more of a bite at SANPARKS: there don’t seem to be any energy using hikes or activities that will allow youngsters to blow off a bit of steam that will have to be let off at the campsites, especially after the long drives required to get to these destinations. As such: I look forward to annoying you on our next camping holiday ;)

Reply
Roxanne
25/12/2018 08:10:04 am

Thanks for sharing your opinion, Alan.

Reply
Thys
27/12/2018 08:42:16 am

Alan, it is not only to teach your children to appreciate nature but also to respect others and to considerate other people who loves to be in nature. I refer to your last sentence "looking forward to annoying you". It sounds like you do make it your business to annoy other people. I rest my case!

Reply
Roxanne
27/12/2018 10:50:10 am

Thanks for the support, Thys.

Reply
Hannah
7/1/2021 06:47:39 pm

Roxanne, I agree with you, big camps for people with kids, small secluded camps adults and children over 12.

Reply
Roxanne
11/1/2021 08:21:16 am

Very much my feeling too, Hannah. Thanks for reading and engaging with the post.

Reply
Eve Steyn
9/5/2021 08:15:37 pm

We have just returned from an extensive Parks holiday. We choose these because of the like minded folk who visit. Small kids find it difficult to be quiet so...dear parents, please wait till they have grown a bit! Believe me, you will also enjoy the experience more.
On our recent experience, it wasnt children that made the noise but the 'boom-boom-thump-thump' of visitors' boomboxes! All requests for quiet were ignored and the park staff seemed to avoid getting involved. How unfortunate:(
I am always amazed at how the few are allowed to spoil things for the majority

Reply
Roxanne Reid
9/5/2021 08:29:14 pm

Sorry to hear about your experience, Eve. I agree it's frustrating but luckily it's not the norm, just those few people here and there.


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    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
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