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Ngoma Safari Lodge, Botswana: a view to lust after

30/8/2016

4 Comments

 
Ngoma Safari Lodge, Chobe, Botswana
By Roxanne Reid
Ngoma Safari Lodge lies in the Chobe Forest Reserve, outside Ngoma Gate in the west of Chobe National Park, Botswana. We visited to see Chobe’s wildlife, but discovered something equally special: a view to lust after. If you can stay here without falling madly-wildly in love with the view, then you’re either near-sighted and should be wearing specs, or you simply have no soul that can be stirred.

​Ngoma Safari Lodge has an elevated position on a rock koppie and a sweeping outlook over the Chobe River and floodplains. A baobab tree forms a natural sculpture in the foreground. Whether you plant yourself on the main deck at the top or the lower pool- or fire-pit decks doesn’t matter. From any of them you can watch zebras come to the nearby waterhole to drink or hear an impala ram snorting to warn off other males. Buffalo, giraffe and elephant may visit too.
Ngoma Safari Lodge, Chobe, Botswana
One of the loveliest views you'll find at Chobe
Best of all is that the river backdrop changes colour according to the time of day, from pale pink in the early morning to deep crimson at sunset. 

​For dinner on our first night, we had an intimate little deck to ourselves as if we were honeymooners. Small baobab trees made from wire with romantic fairy lights on them stood in for candles or paraffin lamps.​
Ngoma Safari Lodge, Chobe, Botswana
Early morning splendour over the Chobe River
Ngoma Safari Lodge, Chobe, Botswana
Late afternoon on the main deck; note the wire baobab trees on the tables
Our free-standing thatched chalet had tall windows and its own small splash pool and sun deck, so we didn’t have to give up the view even for a moment. Apart from an outdoor shower on the sundeck, the rest of the airy bathroom – including shower, large oval bath and twin basins – was on a raised platform behind the bedroom.
Ngoma Safari Lodge, Chobe, Botswana
Ngoma Safari Lodge, Chobe, Botswana
You can go on a full-day excursion that begins with boating near Kasane in the morning, followed by a picnic lunch at Serondela inside the park and a game drive back to Ngoma. Or, as we did, you can do a morning and afternoon game drive, and spend the middle of the day relaxing in all the inviting spaces at the lodge.
Ngoma Safari Lodge, Chobe, Botswana
Friendly staff having some photo fun (from left): Dorcas Tawana, Bonnie Abueng, Peter Rukuro and Zita Longwane
Sunset in the park
During our afternoon drive into Chobe National Park with guide Bevan Machira it didn’t take long to see that he had a special affinity for trees. For instance, we learnt about the knobthorn, jackalberry and brown ivory, which has a sweet raisin-like fruit. The local people also use it as a dye for decorative basketwork. ​​
Ngoma Safari Lodge guide, Chobe, Botswana
Guide Bevan Machira talking about trees on the private concession around the lodge
In the old days, there used to be a logging operation at Chobe and Zambezi teak trees would be sent along the river to what’s now Zimbabwe. ‘The loggers would shout in their local language “Chobe, Chobe”, which means to push, and that’s where the name of the Chobe River comes from,’ said Bevan.

Whether this is history or local legend is unclear. Google tells me the origin of the name is ‘unknown’.
Giraffe, Chobe National Park, Botswana
​Chobe’s 11 700 square kilometres are chockfull of elephants. Because elephants come and go depending on the season and the park isn’t fenced, it’s hard to know how many there are at any one time. I’ve heard estimates from 40 000 to as many as 120 000. But if you look for them in the morning you might not find them because they’re still feeding in the bushes. ‘By late afternoon they leave the warmth and protection of the bushes,’ said Bevan. That’s when they come to the river to drink, bathe or both. 
Sunset, Chobe River, Botswana
A glossy sable bull walked along a dry ridge and by the time we saw a tower of giraffe the sun was sinking and the air cooling. It was time to go to what here in Chobe they call a ‘stretch point’ where you’re allowed to get out of your vehicle and dive into the goodies in your cooler box.

​
The sun melted into the horizon on the other side of the river, a breeze rippling its reflection. After a long hot day, there’s really nothing as riveting as an African sunset in the wild with an ice-cold drink in your hand.

Note: I was a guest of Africa Albida Tourism for two nights, but the had free rein to write what I chose. I paid for all travel costs.
​
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A View to lust after: Ngoma Safari Lodge, Chobe Botswana
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
4 Comments
Colleen
1/9/2016 10:08:08 am

Just this story stirred my soul. What a magnificent looking place.

Reply
Roxanne
1/9/2016 11:03:28 am

That's so good to hear, Colleen, because it did mine too. So much beauty there.

Reply
Tom Spak
2/9/2016 12:24:48 am

Loved your review/article-- could not have said it better myself (and we talked about it a lot)-- and still talk about it! We just stayed at Ngoma Safari Lodge in early August 2016 for 3 nights. Bevan was our guide as well. The staff could not have been more friendly and accommodating. That view is special and the lodge is incredible. (We considered every lodging option around Kasane before choosing Ngoma, trust me.). The sunsets from the lodge deck(s) and from sundowners on the Chobe were very anticipated each evening. Would not hesitate to recommend it. The floodplain has more water in your pics than in early August so perhaps you stayed there a few months ago (just curious)-- kinda interesting to see more water which would change up the animal viewing. Really enjoy your articles/opinions-- I have been a subscriber to your blog for a few months now just before we left for Africa in mid-July. We cannot wait to return to Southern Africa-- really affected us in a positive way.

I read with interest the link to the houseboat that trolls the Chobe/Zambezi esp given my interest in photography. Very intrigued.

Keep going, Roxanne. (and here I thought skiing was an expensive hobby!)

Reply
Roxanne
2/9/2016 07:44:17 am

Thanks for your lovely comments, Tom, and glad you're enjoying my blog. Yes, we were at Ngoma in late May, nearer the start of the dry season. So nice to 'meet' another Southern Africa enthusiast - hope you get back soon. Oh, and I can't recommend the Pangolin houseboat or its tutored photo safari highly enough. We learnt a lot from the ace-photographer-guide and then were able to put it to good use while we were on the houseboat later.

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    About 

    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
    My travel buddy and husband Keith is the primary photographer for this blog.
    We're happiest in the middle of nowhere, meeting the locals, trying something new, or simply watching the grass grow.
    Use this website to discover new places to go, revisit places you've loved, or take a virtual tour of destinations you only dream about.

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