By Roxanne Reid
Even when you have a slow day of game viewing at Namibia's Etosha National Park, you’re in the pound seats back at Okaukuejo camp. In our experience it’s a great place in the dry season to see elephants on an Etosha safari.
Even when you have a slow day of game viewing at Namibia's Etosha National Park, you’re in the pound seats back at Okaukuejo camp. In our experience it’s a great place in the dry season to see elephants on an Etosha safari.
We were camping under a stunted camel thorn tree at the sandy and busy Okaukuejo campsite in Etosha National Park. Manic chatter from a large sociable weavers’ nest woke us, but our early-morning game drive yielded only the usual suspects – black-faced impala, zebra, springbok, wildebeest and a sprinkling of gemsbok.
Okaukuejo campsite
In the afternoon we made a beeline for Nebrownii waterhole, where we’d had consistently busy sightings in the past. Not one elephant, gemsbok or giraffe, not even an ostrich. It was like the bar had closed and the patrons had taken their business elsewhere.
This is what Nebrownii waterhole can look like on a good day - but this wasn't a good day
Another common sight at Nebrownii, but not on this day
Back at Okaukuejo waterhole in camp just before sunset, things were looking up. We perched on a bench behind a protective stone wall and game-proof fence to watch two large bull elephants drinking on one side and a small herd of zebra on the other.
As the sun set, two herds of elephants arrived until some nearly 50 of them encircled the large waterhole. There were quite a few calves of various sizes and they’re always entertaining, especially when they haven’t yet learnt to control those flopping-flapping things that are their trunks.
As the sun set, two herds of elephants arrived until some nearly 50 of them encircled the large waterhole. There were quite a few calves of various sizes and they’re always entertaining, especially when they haven’t yet learnt to control those flopping-flapping things that are their trunks.
Okaukuejo waterhole, accessible from Okaukuejo rest camp
One of them was really tiny and he looked tired after his long walk; mom probably took one step to every six of his. He kept sinking to his knees and melting on to the sand to rest, but mom would nudge him with her foot to get him up again. When she was finished drinking she guided him towards a game trail and made him wait about ten minutes until the rest of their herd was ready to leave.
By now the floodlights were on and three giraffes had joined the throng. One of the elephants, its thirst quenched, stepped into the middle of the water and rolled over onto its side till every part of its dust-grey skin was wet.
It was playtime.
By now the floodlights were on and three giraffes had joined the throng. One of the elephants, its thirst quenched, stepped into the middle of the water and rolled over onto its side till every part of its dust-grey skin was wet.
It was playtime.
The elephant sprayed with its trunk, rocked, rolled and splashed, enjoying the cooling water after a hot day. This water ballet played out to the soundtrack of double-banded sandgrouse that flew in at sunset to drink. One of the sub-adult elephants – often mischief makers determined to prove their mettle – flapped his trunk and ears to chase them away in a flurry of wings, but most of them settled again before long.
Then a black rhino came slowly across the barren rocky expanse around the waterhole, stopping occasionally as if listening or smelling for clues of danger. We’ve seen quite an audible battle between a bull elephant and a rhino here in the past, neither wanting to give way. But this time the breeding herd simply walked around the rhino, the remaining ones gathering to drink on one side while the rhino drank peacefully on the other.
Then a black rhino came slowly across the barren rocky expanse around the waterhole, stopping occasionally as if listening or smelling for clues of danger. We’ve seen quite an audible battle between a bull elephant and a rhino here in the past, neither wanting to give way. But this time the breeding herd simply walked around the rhino, the remaining ones gathering to drink on one side while the rhino drank peacefully on the other.
On previous visits we’ve also seen spotted hyena and lions here at night, even lions take down a zebra about 10 metres from the waterhole and stay on the kill for a few days – much to the delight of everyone staying at Okaukuejo rest camp and determined to see lions.
But tonight was peaceful, just the rumble of elephant tummies, the trickle of water, and a few soft exhalations. By now even the whistling sandgrouse had left in one last flurry.
But tonight was peaceful, just the rumble of elephant tummies, the trickle of water, and a few soft exhalations. By now even the whistling sandgrouse had left in one last flurry.
Sometimes watching wildlife is all about energy and movement, speed and noise – a pronking springbok, a cheetah chasing down a steenbok. And sometimes it is quiet moments like these, when you can empty your mind of clutter, embrace the silence and soak up the magic of Africa’s animals going about their daily routine.
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
12 of the best waterholes at Etosha National Park
Olifantsrus campsite in Etosha National Park
Anderssons at Ongava Game Reserve bordering Etosha
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
