By Roxanne Reid
In the old days, before 20 stop-and-go roadworks blossomed on the N7 and R27 between Clanwilliam, Calvinia, Brandvlei and Kenhardt like Namaqualand flowers in a good year, we used to drive from Cape Town to Twee Rivieren in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in 10- to 11-hour comfort. Now, with the stop-and-go’s pruned to about a dozen, 10.5 hours will still only get you as far as Keimoes in the green Kalahari.
In the old days, before 20 stop-and-go roadworks blossomed on the N7 and R27 between Clanwilliam, Calvinia, Brandvlei and Kenhardt like Namaqualand flowers in a good year, we used to drive from Cape Town to Twee Rivieren in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in 10- to 11-hour comfort. Now, with the stop-and-go’s pruned to about a dozen, 10.5 hours will still only get you as far as Keimoes in the green Kalahari.
We've learned that trying to rush is pointless. If you fight it, you’re going to get really stressed. So we try to go with the flow and pretend that stopping in a long line of traffic for up to 20 minutes in mid-summer heat that can easily melt and buckle a tar road is fun rather than a pain in the arse. What helps is knowing we have a nice place to stop over near Keimoes, ready to start refreshed again the next morning.
Give campers green grass, shady trees and a braai and they'll be happy ...
... Throw in attractive, clean ablutions (and a view of the river) and they'll come back again and again
Oranjerus Resort at Kanoneiland northeast of Keimoes in the Northern Cape has become our source of sanity. It lies on the banks of the Orange River just over 20 kilometres downstream from Upington. We’ve stopped over there three or four times now and have never been disappointed.
We’ve pitched camp on one of the shady, grassed sites with excellent ablutions, braais, taps and river views (R110 per adult). If you do this in the winter months and you camp next to the river, just be prepared for a really cold start to your day. But if you’re seasoned campers, not sissies, this is just part of the process and you’ll appreciate the campsite’s 4-star grading.
We’ve pitched camp on one of the shady, grassed sites with excellent ablutions, braais, taps and river views (R110 per adult). If you do this in the winter months and you camp next to the river, just be prepared for a really cold start to your day. But if you’re seasoned campers, not sissies, this is just part of the process and you’ll appreciate the campsite’s 4-star grading.
The business chalets – not just for business travellers
A clean, attractive en suite room – what more can you ask for?
On our last midsummer visit to Kgalagadi, we weren’t carrying a tent so we booked into a ‘business chalet’ (R675 for both of us, including breakfast). The tiled en suite double room came with an air-conditioner – very welcome on a day that reached 39oC – bar fridge, DSTV (4 channels) and an easy chair as well as a braai. It was good value for the price and reflected Oranjerus’ 3-star grading in the self-catering category.
Enjoy a drink or light meal under a shady tree on the restaurant's stoep
The deck over the Orange River is a perfect place for drinks as the sun sets
We enjoyed sundowners on the wooden deck at the river’s edge, listening to the water gurgle over rocks and then sweep past us as we sipped on ice-cold beers. We watched egrets, sacred ibis and a giant kingfisher before dusk settled over the river and the fairy lights along the deck came on.
It was so pleasant that we couldn't tear ourselves away and ordered supper from the Ibis restaurant. My Greek salad (R45) was enough for a table of four and hubby’s chicken schnitzel and chips wasn’t bad either, though he’d have preferred the chicken to be slightly less well cooked.
It was so pleasant that we couldn't tear ourselves away and ordered supper from the Ibis restaurant. My Greek salad (R45) was enough for a table of four and hubby’s chicken schnitzel and chips wasn’t bad either, though he’d have preferred the chicken to be slightly less well cooked.
Permanent tents for budget travellers who don't want to pitch their own
Other accommodation options include permanent tents, 4-sleeper chalets, luxury chalets, and a log cabin.
Some people stop over closer to Cape Town, perhaps at Calvinia, on the way to Kgalagadi but we prefer to get the longest part of the journey over on the first day, leaving just under 300 kilometres for the next morning so that we arrive inthe park still fresh and enthusiastic enough to go for a game drive. Stopping at Oranjerus helps us to do just that.
You may also be interested in:
A lush stop-over for tired travellers in the green Kalahari
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs may be used without written permission from roxannereid.co.za
Some people stop over closer to Cape Town, perhaps at Calvinia, on the way to Kgalagadi but we prefer to get the longest part of the journey over on the first day, leaving just under 300 kilometres for the next morning so that we arrive inthe park still fresh and enthusiastic enough to go for a game drive. Stopping at Oranjerus helps us to do just that.
You may also be interested in:
A lush stop-over for tired travellers in the green Kalahari
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs may be used without written permission from roxannereid.co.za
