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Palmwag campsite: an oasis in Kunene, Namibia

6/9/2017

6 Comments

 
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
By Roxanne Reid
Himba settlements. Desert-adapted black rhino, elephant and lions. Fierce 4x4 routes. Austere desert landscapes. And your gateway to all of this is Palmwag campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia.

​You’ll find Palmwag about 80km west of Kamanjab, over the Grootberg Pass through the Etendeka mountains. The volcanic Grootberg (or big mountain) stands 1540m above sea level and forms a U-shaped plateau. Spread out below you is a winding green ribbon that hints at a river bed. Down the pass to the other side and you’ll arrive at the Palmwag Lodge and Campsite on the Uniab River.
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Torra Conservancy, Kunene, Namibia
Here in what is part of the Kunene area, Palmwag pops up as a surprise oasis in the dry, rocky landscape. Makalani palm trees wave in the breeze and there’s green grass and reeds along the riverbank. 
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Things haven’t changed all that much since we first visited 20 years ago; back then most of the chalets were painted black and white, whereas now they’re a creamy yellow, and the camp has grown a little. There’s also a nice veranda outside the lodge’s main restaurant that I don’t remember, and it’s the best place to get WiFi, which wasn’t even dreamed of back then.
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Bar lunch at the campsite’s pool
​After setting up camp on the hot sand, we were sizzling, tired and hungry. So instead of making our own lunch, we treated ourselves to crumbed chicken, chips and salad at the Makalani Pool Bar next to the campsite – a great place to take refuge in the heat of the day. 

​Some youngsters were cooling off in the pool and two older guys were trying to impress four giggly teenage girls at the bar with stories of their travels and macho exploits. Not much changes, no matter how far from ‘civilisation’ you travel. 
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Pool next to the campsite
Pool bar, Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Pool bar
Camping
​We’ve camped at two different sites at Palmwag. Campsite 5 overlooked the reeds in the riverbed and although there was a pergola to sit under, the car and trailer sat all day in the sun until late afternoon brought relief in the form of a puddle of shade. 
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Campsite 5
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Campsite 2
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Campsite 4
We preferred campsite 2, where mopane trees provided deeper shade during the middle of the day. One drawback was that it was close to the pool/restaurant/bar area so if there had been a rowdy party (which, luckily, there wasn’t) we might have found it hard to have an early night.

​Each campsite has its own power point, braai, tap and sink with cold water and drying grid/work top. The ablutions are good, with hot water showers and flush toilets. 
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
​The first time we came to Palmwag we went for a walk among interesting-shaped rocks and stones and even came across a lone desert elephant quietly eating on the edge of the river. This time, we’d been tracking desert rhino and other animals in the Torra Conservancy, so we’d had our nature excitement and were just looking to chill before heading further north into Kunene to meet the Himba.
Torra Conservancy, Kunene, Namibia
The day we were due to leave, we had a flat tyre. It couldn’t have happened in a better place. A day later and we’d have been in Middle of Nowhere, Kunene, without access to Palmwag’s helpful mechanics who fixed us up efficiently and with a smile – that’s the Damara way.
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Yes, this bench was already broken before I sat on it!
What to do
1. Sign up at reception for a nature walk with a guide, to enjoy the beauty of the surrounding landscape and the chance to meet some of its wildlife.
2. If you don’t feel energetic, choose a guided game drive instead, with a chance to see zebra, kudu, gemsbok, springbok, ostrich, jackal, hyena, and maybe even black rhino and elephant.
Rhino, Torra Conservancy, Kunene, Namibia
3. You can also go on a half- or full-day excursion to track desert-adapted rhino on the Palmwag Concession of the Torra Conservancy. A guide from the lodge and a tracker from Save the Rhino Trust Namibia will lead your outing.
4. Take your binos and look for birds such as Herero chat, Rüppell’s korhaan, Rüppell’s parrot, Benguela longbilled lark, white-tailed shrike, Hartlaub’s spurfowl, bare-cheeked babbler, rockrunner and violet woodhoopoe.

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Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
Palmwag Campsite, an oasis in Kunene, Namibia
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
6 Comments
Herbert Evans
6/9/2017 09:47:51 pm

I agree. It's a must stayover if your want to travel to Sesfontein or Epupa falls. It's like an oasis. Stayed over numerous times.

Reply
Roxanne
7/9/2017 12:42:15 pm

Thanks for reading, Herbert. It's definitely well situated for a stopover on the way to the destinations you mention. Glad you've enjoyed your time there too.

Reply
Robert Proudfoot
19/3/2019 12:21:54 pm

Hi Roxanne, I’m off to Namibia in June for 3 weeks to explore and take photographs. I’ve read all of your articles at least once regarding Namibia and find them well written and engaging.
Our route starts in Windhoek where we pick up a bushcamper from savanna before stocking up and driving south for an overnight at Oanab then onto fish river canyon the next day. We then travel up to Aus, Sesriem, Swakopmund, Cape Cross, Palmwag, Grootberg, 10 nights in Etosha, one night in Waterbury and back to Windhoek.
We are a mid fifties couple who both LOVE wildlife and are getting to grips with photography. Our previous trips have included Zambia, Uganda, Kenya and SA.
My wife and I have the same cameras for ease of use and adaptability (Nikon d7100). My question is, if I had to take just one lens with me, which would it be in your opinion.
Or to put another way, which is the best all round Nikon suitable lens for animal and landscape photography in your opinion, for this type of trip.
I should add that I will be taking at least 3 or 4 lenses but am looking for advice.
Robert Proudfoot

Reply
Roxanne
19/3/2019 12:39:08 pm

Sounds like a wonderful trip, Robert. We have Canon equipment so I don't think I can advise you! Only kidding. We always take two lenses, no matter what. 24-105mm full frame for landscapes and lodges, etc, then a 100-400mm cropped specifically for wildlife. Have fun!

Reply
Gwendoline Nel
17/8/2020 12:28:53 pm

Hi, Please assist me, in 2008 there was a tourist group, Nielsen or Hayat, or Lyth, have you any information on them, i need this for an investigation, It was in June 2008, I would really appreciate it, if you acn let me know, any information regarding there visit, camp site number or anything else, deeply appreciated Gwen

Reply
Roxanne
21/8/2020 07:47:59 pm

I'm sorry, Gwen, but I have no information for you. Perhaps if you contacted the lodge and campsite directly they might be able to help you (although it's different owners now). Find their contact details here: https://store.gondwana-collection.com/accommodation/palmwag-campsite

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    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
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