By Roxanne Reid
What's the best thing about Sesriem Campsite at Sossusvlei in Namibia? The extra time you get to spend with the dunes at dawn and dusk when you stay inside the gates into the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Here's why we returned to experience Sesriem Campsite and Sossusvlei the slow travel way.
What's the best thing about Sesriem Campsite at Sossusvlei in Namibia? The extra time you get to spend with the dunes at dawn and dusk when you stay inside the gates into the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Here's why we returned to experience Sesriem Campsite and Sossusvlei the slow travel way.
If you enjoy slow travel, not rushing like a lunatic, this is an important distinction: the internal gate at Namibian Wildlife Resorts’ Sesriem Campsite opens 30 minutes or so before the external gate, which only opens at sunrise. Given that there’s always a queue at the external gate, you may lose 50-60 minutes. By contrast, staying at Sesriem Campsite buys you enough time to get to the dunes and Sossusvlei before sunrise. It also allows you to stay out longer at dusk.
Sesriem Campsite
The first shock was how much Sesriem Campsite had grown since we last stayed there. The low stone walls defining the campsites were still there, but there were now more sites – not all of them under shady camel thorn trees. There was a swimming pool and the tiny reception area had been replaced by a huge barn-like structure under thatch that served as reception, shop, bar and restaurant. Ragged-looking youngsters were taking refuge there from the heat at their Overlander camp nearby, glued to their cell phones and looking haunted from lack of sleep. We enjoyed a very nice Sesriem burger, chips and salad.
The first shock was how much Sesriem Campsite had grown since we last stayed there. The low stone walls defining the campsites were still there, but there were now more sites – not all of them under shady camel thorn trees. There was a swimming pool and the tiny reception area had been replaced by a huge barn-like structure under thatch that served as reception, shop, bar and restaurant. Ragged-looking youngsters were taking refuge there from the heat at their Overlander camp nearby, glued to their cell phones and looking haunted from lack of sleep. We enjoyed a very nice Sesriem burger, chips and salad.
Sesriem campsite, photo by mp3ief
Our campsite itself was less nice, searingly hot and dry, a wasteland of sand that burrowed into everything when a breeze blew or a vehicle drove past. Part of the stone wall around our site was broken, a tap nearby had been wrecked and the rubbish bins were overflowing. When I went for a shower later, the whole bathroom was under about two inches of water. Whether the problem was blocked shower drains or toilets I wasn’t sure, but it made having a shower like walking on a tightrope and thoroughly unpleasant.
The dunes
But let’s focus on the good Sossusvlei stuff instead. Our drive to Dune 45 in the late afternoon light was special. Most visitors had already left to get out the external gate by sunset. We had the place virtually to ourselves in peace and tranquility, all the frenzy of the morning’s activities a distant memory. Even the drive back to camp was beautiful in the soft light after sunset. We could watch stars begin to freckle the sky and listen to a black-backed jackal yowling in the distance.
This is how to experience Sossusvlei, in solitude, serenity and staggering beauty – the slow travel way.
The dunes
But let’s focus on the good Sossusvlei stuff instead. Our drive to Dune 45 in the late afternoon light was special. Most visitors had already left to get out the external gate by sunset. We had the place virtually to ourselves in peace and tranquility, all the frenzy of the morning’s activities a distant memory. Even the drive back to camp was beautiful in the soft light after sunset. We could watch stars begin to freckle the sky and listen to a black-backed jackal yowling in the distance.
This is how to experience Sossusvlei, in solitude, serenity and staggering beauty – the slow travel way.
The next morning we woke in the dark and set off from Sesriem Campsite towards Sossusvlei as soon as the internal gate opened, still in the dark. We drove slowly, watching gradual pink fingers of dawn creep into the sky.
Some madmen overtook us at speed, heading for Dune 45. We stopped to watch them rushing like loons to park, put on jackets (it was 8 degrees Celsius) and start the climb up the dune so they could get to the top in time to watch the sunrise. It seemed to be a compulsive mission but I’m not sure why; they missed the changing colours of pink and lavender and yellow as the sun prepared to rise. Frankly, once the sun popped up above the horizon the best part was over.
Some madmen overtook us at speed, heading for Dune 45. We stopped to watch them rushing like loons to park, put on jackets (it was 8 degrees Celsius) and start the climb up the dune so they could get to the top in time to watch the sunrise. It seemed to be a compulsive mission but I’m not sure why; they missed the changing colours of pink and lavender and yellow as the sun prepared to rise. Frankly, once the sun popped up above the horizon the best part was over.
Two couples were so harried they started up the dune at a jog. They got about half way up the first part of the dune – less than quarter way to the top! – then plonked down in the sand to face the rising sun, already out of energy.
A few minutes later they came down and stood in the cold car park to make coffee over a gas stove, continuing to blow on their hands and wrap their arms around their bodies to get warm. This is manic behaviour that comes of trying to squeeze too many sights into too short a time.
We’re fans of slow travel instead, with time and peace to immerse ourselves in the feel of a place rather than just rushing to tick off a list of highlights. So we moved on and chose a dune at random, one with some dead camel thorns in the foreground that would make for interesting photos, but away from the busy Dune 45 or the Dead Vlei parking lot. (From this parking lot you can drive 2km to Dead Vlei if you have a 4x4 and experience in thick sand, walk it if you don’t, or catch the 4x4 shuttle at a price.)
And we had our dune to ourselves – peace, silence, solitude. Just the way we like it.
And we had our dune to ourselves – peace, silence, solitude. Just the way we like it.
Dead Vlei
This was the advantage of being at Sossusvlei more than a day – we’d had our adrenalin-fuelled climb up Big Daddy dune and visit to Dead Vlei the day before. And it had been wonderful, don’t get me wrong. But now we could shift down a gear and experience the dunes in a slower, timeless way that was somehow more fitting in a desert considered to be the oldest in the world.
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