We’re perched on the rocks of a small hill that provides an amphitheatre view of the Moringa waterhole at Etosha National Park's Halali camp. It’s our chance to grab a last few remnants of warmth from the rocks before the sun sets and the show begins.
There’s the constant bickering of a pair of drongos not wanting to share their tree perch or the insects they’re catching in the glare of the floodlight. And then there’s the first liquid call of a doublebanded sandgrouse, weep weep wieuw. Then another. Soon the air is alive with them, swooping down to the water for a sundowner before taking off again in a staggered chorus, first one small group then another.
‘Renoster!’ shouts an overexcited voice and a quivering finger points stage left. A few foreigners behind us shush her, but they probably don’t understand what she’s saying. Sure enough, a big black rhino lumbers into view to take centre stage under the floodlights. A clutch of impala make way for him and he drinks, sipping first here and then there until he’s happy with the particular cocktail mix.
For about ten minutes, there’s a hush as we have the privilege of watching this strange prehistoric beast in his natural habitat. Then, as silently as he arrived, he’s gone. Our day is complete.
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