20 things to do in Arniston / Waenhuiskrans

By Roxanne Reid
A turquoise-blue ocean and white sand dunes, whitewashed cottages and brightly painted fishing boats, a coastline scattered with shipwrecks, and a sleepy little village with two names. If all this sounds intriguing, hop in your car and drive 2.5-hours from Cape Town to find Arniston/Waenhuiskrans – perfect for whale-spotting, cave exploring, fishing, snorkelling, hiking, and gorging on seafood.

​This little village in the Cape Overberg was originally called Waenhuiskrans, but after a British transport ship called the Arniston wrecked there in 1815, that name muscled its way in too (see point 1). Somehow both names stuck, and now it’s the only town in South Africa with two official names. 

See the colourful old boats in the harbour at Arniston

Whichever name you use, you’ll find a tight-knit village of fishermen’s cottages and holiday homes overlooking the ocean, all faintly reminiscent of Greece in the quality of the light, the chilled mood, and the white buildings. Even the changing colour of the sea will get you scrabbling to remember descriptive words like aquamarine, azure and cerulean.

Whether you’re in the mood to chill, people-watch, or actually get moving, there’s plenty to do around here.

1. Hike to the wreck of the Arniston

Marine debris on the beach near the shipwreck site

Since the wreck of the Arniston gave this village one of its names, a walk along the beach to see the wreck site is a no-brainer. Great sea views along the way too. From the harbour, it’s about a 3km walk northeast along the beach. So what’s the story? In May 1815, the Arniston was sailing back to England from Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) when it struck a reef in a severe storm, and all but six of the 378 passengers and crew died. The following year, a small monument was erected at the site but it took a bashing from wind-blown sand and was removed in 1905. You can now see it – and learn more about this and other wrecks that pepper this coastline – at Bredasdorp’s Shipwreck Museum (see point 17). A new monument built in the same style has marked the site since 2010.

The main wreck lies underwater roughly 900m offshore and was declared South Africa’s first underwater historical monument in 1982. Over time, fragments of the wooden hull have washed up or become exposed on the beach nearby.

2. Explore the Waenhuiskrans cave

Explore the Waenhuiskrans Cave at low tide

Don’t miss a walk across the rocks at low tide to see the Waenhuiskrans cave – a huge, cathedral-like limestone cavern – in the Waenhuiskrans Nature Reserve. Follow the signs that point to ‘Grot’ (cave) from the end of Roman Beach and along the dunes. It’s about a 1.5km walk from the end of Roman Beach, enjoying views over dune and ocean. The last couple of hundred metres over rocks are uneven and slippery so wear shoes you don’t mind getting wet and that will grip like a mountain goat.

Legend says the name Waenhuiskrans (which means wagon house cliff) arose because the cave is big enough for an ox wagon and a team of 16 oxen to turn around in. Not that it would be possible for them to get down there in the first place, but you get the idea. Keep an eye out so you don’t get trapped by the incoming tide.

Top tip: Plan your visit for low tide as the entrance is completely covered at high tide. The best time to visit is within two hours before or after low tide. Check tide tables carefully, for instance on Windguru. If you’re staying at the Arniston Spa Hotel (see point 15), your turndown service each evening includes tide tables for the following day.

3. See Stone Age fish traps and shell middens 

Late Stone Age fish traps in the Waenhuiskrans Nature Reserve

If you wander along the coast inside the Waenhuiskrans Nature Reserve just before the Baken (see point 4) at low tide, you’ll spot ancient fish traps dating all the way back to the Late Stone Age. They’re essentially rocky tide pools and lie about 4km from the harbour. To find them, just keep going past the turnoff to the Waenhuiskrans cave from Roman Beach.

The whole idea behind the traps was pretty clever: fish would swim in at high tide then get stuck in the pools when the water level dropped. I’m told that locals still use them now and then, though I’ve never actually seen that myself. You’ll also find shell middens tucked into the dunes nearby – piles of shells and bones left behind by the strandlopers who lived along this coastline way back in the Late Stone Age.

4. Find De Baken in the nature reserve

De Baken at Struispunt, Arniston

While you’re in the reserve, look out for the Struispunt Beacon, or Baken, which was built around 1900. It’s a fairly ugly grey stone obelisk but has an important purpose: to warn sailors of a reef of submerged rocks that stretch some 4km out to sea and have claimed more than a dozen ships.

Top tip: Combine a walk to the Baken with your hike to the Waenshuiskrans Cave (see point 2) and the ancient fish traps (see point 3) as they’re all in easy walking distance of each other inside the Waenhuiskrans Nature Reserve.

5. Do some whale-watching
Southern right whales come to the ocean around Arniston each year from June to November, though the best months for whale-watching are July to October, when you might see them breaching, lobtailing, or spyhopping. These are also the best months to see calves as the whales come from Antarctica to Southern African waters to breed. Other whales that occur in the area include humpbacks and Bryde’s whales. You may also spot common and bottle-nose dolphins alongside the whales.

Top tip: Sightings are best from the dunes, beaches, and viewpoints overlooking the Arniston shipwreck site, or the coastal path to De Baken/Struispunt in the Waenhuiskrans Nature Reserve.

6. Go walkabout in Kassiesbaai

The old fishing village of Kassiesbaai is a national heritage site

If you love buildings with personality, you’ll delight in Kassiesbaai – a historic fishing village tucked into the sand dunes above the little harbour at Arniston. Kassiesbaai dates back to the 1800s and is now a national heritage site. It’s full of whitewashed, thatched cottages, many still owned by descendants of the original families. Fortunately, they managed to fight off forced removals during the apartheid years. Wander the streets, chat to the locals, snap photos, soak up the sea views, and get inspiration for your art. If you time it right, you might spot fishermen heading in or out of the harbour in their colourful wooden boats.

7. Have lunch in Kassiesbaai

Enjoy fish and chips in an old Kassiesbaai cottage that overlooks the beach

Wanna scoff fish and chips right next to the beach? Pop in to Willeen’s restaurant in one of the old cottages at Kassiesbaai. Get sea views from rustic shaded tables outside or venture inside, where there’s a busy clutter of knick-knacks for sale. On the menu you’ll usually find calamari and chips, fish and chips, burger and chips, perhaps even a curry. We had a generous portion of yellowtail and chips that was very tasty. Run by Willeen and her son, the place started as a shop in 2003 and began serving food in 2007. For reservations, phone Willeen de Villiers on 083 7290651.

There are two other places to eat in Kassiesbaai, although the sea view makes Willeen’s my favourite. At Wanda’s Waenhuis in Steenbras Avenue, you’ll find anything from seafood (the best choice because this is a fishing village after all), to steaks and pasta. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but there’s definitely a vibe on busy days. For reservations, phone Wanda Europa on 078 3576672.

Mien’s Tea Garden in Dorp Street is something of a misnomer, being a lot more than just a tea garden. Yes, you can order freshly baked scones, but you can also get breakfast, toasties, burgers and salads, or go big and try the linefish or calamari. Phone the charming Wilmien Marthinus to make a booking on 063 3284740. Go ahead and support a local in this historic village.

8. Watch fishing boats at the harbour

Traditional wooden fishing boats at Arniston

Although the scale of fishing operations here has decreased sharply in recent decades because of depleted stocks, stricter fishing quotas, and a forced shift to tourism for extra income, if you’re lucky, you can still watch fishermen in their traditional wooden boats launch or return to harbour with their catch. Fewer than 100 people nowadays make a sustainable living from fishing alone, but the locals still identify as fisherfolk. The boats mostly go out during the week when the sea is calm and there’s little wind, launching in the early morning and returning in the late afternoon, when they sell the fresh catch to restaurants, residents and visitors. The catch may include yellowtail, red roman, red stumpnose, snoek, or hake. At weekends, the brightly coloured fishing boats usually stay docked at the harbour.

9. Go fishing
Fishing has been the backbone of Arniston for more than a century so join the fun. Bait and tie your hook, cast a line from the rocks or the beach and enjoy wide views of the ocean, the taste of salt on your lips. You might catch something like kob, steenbras, red roman, or galjoen.

Some of the best shore-fishing spots include the slipway and harbour wall, the rocks at Roman Beach, The Point behind Kassiesbaai, and the Waenhuiskrans Cave area rocks (at low tide only). There’s also good angling at De Mond Nature Reserve 23km west of Arniston (see point 18).

Top tip: You need a Recreational Marine Fishing Permit, which you can get online from the Department of Forestry, Fishing & the Environment (you'll need to register) or in person from any post office; Struibaai or Bredasdorp are the nearest post offices to Arniston. Be warned that there are fat fines for fishing without a permit.

10. Find an old fisherman’s cottage

One of the oldest cottages in Arniston / Waenhuiskrans

See history still standing at the fisherman’s cottage at 15 Pratt Street in Arniston. It’s said to be one of the earliest in the village. Although I haven’t been able to discover the date when it was built, it apparently predates Kassiesbaai (see point 6). It has thick whitewashed walls, a low thatched roof, small shuttered windows and a door that tall people would struggle to get through without taking a bow.

11. Explore the dunes 

Explore the white dunes at Arniston

Explore the creamy white dunes around Arniston. Climb to the top of a high dune to get wonderful views out to sea, then dune-surf down. Remember that for environmental reasons you’re no longer allowed to drive your 4x4 vehicle or quad bike along the dunes. The sand dunes above Roman beach are a popular spot for for dune-boarding and exploring.

Photo tip: If you’re a keen photographer, avoid midday when the light off the white dunes can be blinding. Early morning or late afternoon golden hour can produce superb photos when the dunes turn soft shades of pink and peach.

12. Go snorkelling
Bring your goggles and snorkel and spend a fascinating hour or two exploring the rocky pools near Roman Beach or at Waenhuiskrans Cave at low tide. You can expect to find colourful sea creatures like anemones, urchins, starfish, and small octopus. It’s great fun for the whole family.

13. Go to the beach

Swimmers, surfers and kite-surfers all love Roman Beach

Pack your hat and sunscreen for a day on the beach. Roman Beach in the Waenhuiskrans Nature Reserve is by far the most popular hangout on hot summer days in Arniston, a place for early morning beach walks, lazing under a beach umbrella, building sand castles, swimming, body boarding and surfing. The warm Agulhas current makes for pleasant water temperatures. There’s another beach in front of the hotel, but it’s quite small except at low tide.

14. Enjoy fresh seafood

Enjoy a surfeit of fresh seafood when you visit Arniston

If you love fresh seafood, you’re spoilt for choice with five restaurants in Arniston all serving fish. For a truly ‘local’ experience, don’t miss a meal at one of Kassiesbaai’s restaurants housed in old fishermen’s cottages (see point 7).

The Arniston Spa Hotel also has two restaurants – the dining room and the Bistro. For the trendiest spot, choose a table under an umbrella on the open-air deck of the Bistro with views of the sea and harbour, the sound of breakers in your ears. It’s extremely popular for lunch, especially on weekends, so I suggest you book ahead if you want a good spot. That said, in our experience the food is better in the dining room, which also has a sea view. Enjoy well-prepared seafood like sole, yellowtail, silverfish, calamari, mussels, or even sushi. For those who don’t eat seafood, there are tasty meat and pasta options.​

15. Stay over in Arniston accommodation

The Arniston Spa Hotel overlooks the beach, ocean and fishing harbour

​Arniston has the kind of allure that brings you back time and again, so it’s no surprise that we’ve visited numerous times. There are lots of self-catering apartments and B&Bs – with or without a sea view – as well as chalets and campsites at Arniston Resort. But over many years our all-time favourite Arniston accommodation has remained the Arniston Spa Hotel.

Just a stone’s throw from the beach, it was originally built in 1933 and has had a varied past. From a place where rowdy types came to knock back the booze in the early days, it turned all prim and proper after World War II – a place where single women were discouraged and unmarried couples got the cold shoulder. There was a major makeover in the 1980s, and again in the early 2000s, when it became the family-friendly place it is today. It’s part of the Cape Country Routes collection of privately owned hotels.

There are rooms facing the garden courtyard and pool, but I prefer those that give a widescreen view out to sea. There’s always something interesting to watch – fishing boats going out or coming back in the early morning, sunrises and sunsets splashing across the sky, people fossicking in the rock pools along the beach or going for a walk to explore the village.

Pick of the bunch at the Arniston Hotel are the rooms with a view out to sea

Sit on the balcony overlooking the waves with a cup of coffee in the early morning or a glass of wine in the evening, watch the lights twinkle on as the sky goes dark. Use your binos to look for whales or get lost in a good book. Enjoy a substantial breakfast spread, cool off with a swim in the hotel pool, or lounge under a shade umbrella with a cocktail. I’ve always found the hotel a perfect place to relax after we’ve been out exploring the village and the wider area.

Hot tip: Keep your eye on the hotel’s website and social media for some great-value specials they run in the winter months.

16. Enjoy a spa massage
Want to feel pampered and stress free? Treat yourself to a massage or treatment at the Gingko Spa at the hotel. They have a hydrotherapy bath, Turkish steam room and saunas, and offer everything from manicures and pedicures to massages, facials and body treatments.


Further afield

17. Visit the Shipwreck Museum

The Shipwreck Museum is a must if you're interested in the wrecks that dot the coastline

As you pass through Bredasdorp (23km away) on your way to Arniston, pop into the small Shipwreck Museum in Independent Street to winkle out the story of the wreck of the Arniston and some of the other famous shipwrecks of the area. The Arniston was on its way from Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) to England when gale force winds destroyed its sails and it broke up on the sharp rocks of the Arniston reef. Only six of 378 people on board survived. Two weeks after the wreck, a farmer was looking for lost sheep when he stumbled on the survivors, surrounded by rotting corpses washed up on the beach.

You can also learn about the earliest wreck along this stretch of coast, the Zoetendal in 1673, and see bits and bobs recovered from wrecks like the Schoenenberg (1772), Birkenhead (1852), Queen of the Thames (1871), and the more modern Oriental Pioneer (1974).

Read more about the Shipwreck Museum

18. Visit the De Mond Nature Reserve

The boardwalk at De Mond follows the river towards the mouth and the sea

You’ll find De Mond Nature Reserve at the mouth of the Heuningnes River some 23km south-west of Arniston. The estuary is extremely popular with people who love to fish for grunter, garrick/leervis and stumpnose, and to swim. Perhaps my favourite thing to do here is to walk along the boardwalk in search of water birds and waders like three-banded plover, Kittlitz plover, great white egret, Damara tern and African black oystercatcher.

The 954ha of protected land and ocean is a biodiversity Eden with small mammals like badger, caracal and porcupine, and more than 200 bird species. The estuary is recognised as a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance. Go mountain biking or hiking along the circular 7km Sterna Trail, or walk the De Mond to Arniston trail to take in dune fields, coastal fynbos, salt marshes and beautiful stretches of white beach.

19. Visit De Hoop Nature Reserve

Cape Mountain zebras are just one of many animals to see at De Hoop

It’s about a 70km drive east of Arniston to the De Hoop Nature Reserve, well worth a day visit, or even better, a stopover on your way to or from Arniston (see accommodation options here). Highlights include 1500 plant species of the Cape Floral Kingdom, the vlei which is a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance, and excellent land-based whale-watching from June to November. Go mountain biking or hiking, take a game drive see mammals like Cape mountain zebra, eland and bontebok and birds like flamingo. Don’t miss the Origins of Early Southern Sapiens Behaviour Exhibition (book ahead). My all-time favourite activity is the guided marine walk along the beach at low tide to discover sea creatures in the rocky pools.

More things to do at De Hoop Nature Reserve

20. Explore other small towns in the area

Cape Agulhas lighthouse

Here are some small towns or villages worth visiting on your way to or from Arniston.

• L’Agulhas – southernmost tip of the continent of Africa with its lighthouse, and the Agulhas National Park (about 45km away)
• Elim – see Why to visit the Moravian village of Elim (about 60km away)

• Stanford – see Things to do in Stanford (about 90km away)
• Gansbaai and the Danger Point lighthouse – see Things to do in Gansbaai (about 100km away)
• Hermanus – see Things to do in Hermanus (about 115km away)

Best time to visit Arniston
Arniston really doesn’t have a bad season – the beaches and rugged coastline are gorgeous all year – so choosing when to visit really depends on what you’re hoping to get from your trip. If you’re here for whales, know that southern right whales hang out in the shallow bays to calve and nurse mainly from July to October, with September often being the sweet spot. You might see them as early as May/June and as late as November.

If you’re chasing warm weather and beach time, visit in the summer months of December to February. Expect hot, sunny days of around 23–25 degrees Celsius, calm seas for swimming, and very little rain. The Agulhas Current keeps the water relatively warm too. Note, though, that this is peak season, so if you hate crowds, you may want to rethink your timing. Also, you’ll definitely need to book your accommodation far ahead (and you’ll pay peak rates).

For sunny weather without the crowds, try October/November or March/April. You’ll still get pleasant temperatures of about 20–23 degrees, but fewer people, and maybe even a bonus late whale sighting in October or November. Note, however, that October and November can be rather windy.

The winter months of June to August are cooler at around 11-15 degrees during the day, lower in the early morning and at night. Given that the Western Cape is a winter rainfall area, these months are wetter too, with the trade-off being that the area is quiet, accommodation is cheaper, and your timing is right if seeing whales is more important to you than lazing on the beach. May and June are generally the least windy months.

Overall, my favourite time here is probably September for the reliable whale sightings, comfy spring temperatures of around 18–22 degrees, not much wind, colourful fynbos in bloom, and none of the high-summer mayhem.

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