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Warning: Lesotho's disappointments

21/2/2012

36 Comments

 
Thaba Bosiu cultural village, LesothoThaba Bosiu cultural village
By Roxanne Reid
​Don’t get me wrong. I love Lesotho and I love its friendly people, I love its climate and its stunning peaks and valleys. I love everything about it except for the disappointment of unfulfilled potential.

Take Thaba Bosiu, the single most important historical sight in Lesotho. About 20 kilometres east of Maseru, it may just look like a mountain with a flat top but it was the fortress on which Moshoeshoe first founded the Basotho Nation. It’s the burial ground of Lesotho’s kings. It’s a Unesco World Heritage Site. And it’s smack dab next to Qiloane, that cone-shaped mountain with a funny little knobble on top, rumoured to have been the inspiration for the Basotho hat.

You can walk with a guide to the top of the mountain to see the royal graves and some fortifications, but if you’re planning to visit the much-vaunted new cultural centre (if, like us, you had made a special detour to do so) you will be disappointed. Yes, the cultural village has a restaurant, an amphitheatre, a museum, a traditional village and attractive chalets where you can stay. But none of it is open to visitors yet.

Guidebooks on Lesotho talk about it all being ‘about to open at the time of writing’. In books published in 2009, this must have been some time in 2008 or ve-e-ry early in 2009. But it was still not open by our visit in late December 2011. And no one could tell us when it would be, except to say they ‘were hoping’ it would be ‘soon’.

I wonder how many potential visitors have been lost over the past two or three years as a result of this tardiness. Visitors who might have paid for lunch in the restaurant, a book or craft item in the museum shop, a night or two’s accommodation in the chalets. Visitors who, like us, would have been happy to add to Lesotho’s tourism revenue if given half a chance. 

[Update: we visited again in November 2018 and found the cultural village open. You can read about it in my post Why to visit Thaba Bosiu Cultural Village in Lesotho.]
Bokong nature Reserve, Lesotho
Bokong visitor centre with a view
You’ll find another example of unfulfilled potential in the form of the Bokong Nature Reserve at the top of the steep-and-spectacular Mafika Lisiu pass. 

At 3 000 metres, Bokong is the highest nature reserve in Africa that you can get to by car. It’s on the way to the Katse Dam, one of Lesotho’s tourist highlights. It includes wetlands, grasslands and afro-alpine flowers. It’s home to the rare Drakenberg rockjumper and the endangered bearded vulture. It’s excellent hiking or pony-trekking country; you can even do a three-day 40-kilometre trail across the ‘roof of Africa’ into Ts’ehlanyane National Park further north.

All this means visitors to Lesotho may want to make use of Bokong’s facilities.

And therein lies the problem.
Bokong nature Reserve, Lesotho
Unfinished chalets at Bokong
Bokong’s visitor centre perches dramatically on the edge of a 100-metre cliff overlooking the Lepaqoa valley and waterfall, a great place to stop to see displays about the reserve’s fauna, flora, geology, whatever. A great place to have tea and cake or a light lunch with one of the best views in a country riddled with grand views.

We were happy to pay R10 per person entrance fee until we saw that there was nothing much there but some rather sad-looking efforts at taxidermy and a sprinkling of sun-faded info boards, dwarfed in the large space available, telling us that the reserve has creatures like Smith’s red rock rabbit, ice rat and black eagle.

We tried to order milkshakes or cold drinks from the kiosk but they only had tea or coffee (not even a biscuit) and looked reluctant to go to the effort of making it.

So, essentially, we paid R10 each for a great view and a clean toilet. What a lost opportunity to get us – and other visitors – to part with holiday cash and inject it into Lesotho’s economy.

But it’s behind the visitor centre where you’ll find the saddest lost opportunity. A row of beautiful chalets perches on the hillside overlooking the reserve, the river valley and the waterfall, which freezes into a column of ice in winter. But they aren’t about to open any time soon because money to finish them has dried up. Apparently, they’re gorgeous inside, with granite tops and plush carpets, but the rain has got in and ruined carpets and curtains. Some of the front windows were boarded up.

I feel mean-spirited criticising a country I love so much, so I’d really like to hear from anyone who can confirm that the Thaba Bosiu cultural village and the Bokong chalets have at last been opened.

Anyone?

[Note that a reader has confirmed that the Bokong chalets were open when he stayed there in May 2016 (see comments below).]

Things to love about Lesotho
How to fall in love with Lesotho
The secret of Basotho blankets
Caves, cannibals and kids in Lesotho
12 things everyone should know about Katse Dam
The truth about Katse Lodge

Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
36 Comments
peter nikon
1/4/2012 03:29:25 am

I thoroughly agree with you. When my wife and I visited the area we had the same dissappointing experience

Reply
Roxanne
1/4/2012 03:46:36 am

I'm sorry to hear that, Peter. I've been hoping to hear from someone that these places have been opened since my visit...

Reply
Roelof
15/5/2012 06:07:48 am

We usually go out there during July / Aug for Ice climbing, and was hoping the chalets by now will have been finished, terrible to hear that since they started in early 2009, nothing has happened.....

Reply
Roxanne
15/5/2012 08:02:02 am

Remember that I was there just before New Year, so that's just over four months ago. I'd be thrilled to hear from someone if they have been finished and opened, or even if work has restarted...

Reply
Mapaballo
12/10/2013 07:23:11 am

My husband and I both worked on the project (I left early 2008), and it is really disappointing that this beautiful place has still not been opened. We were actually hoping to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary there since it has sentimental value to us, but it seems there's no chance of that happening!!! Sad indeed...

Reply
Roxanne link
12/10/2013 08:15:28 am

I can understand your disappointment, Mapaballo. My visit - detailed in this blog post - was in December 2011 so perhaps by now it is open? It might be worth phoning to find out - and then reporting back here if you manage to visit!

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Lebo
12/2/2014 04:55:38 am

Still not open. I was there on the 1st of January 2014.

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Roxanne link
12/2/2014 05:31:22 am

Thanks for the update, Lebo. It's so sad - they have such a gorgeous position.

Reply
Alice
6/8/2014 04:13:10 am

It is now operational...

Reply
Roxanne link
12/8/2014 07:49:29 am

Thanks for the update, Alice. Do you mean the cultural village at Thaba Bosiu or the chalets at Bokong?

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tracey
25/8/2014 03:45:37 pm

Checkout Computicket. There's a wine and crafts festival being held there this weekend,30 Aug (Thaba Bosiu cultural village) There are tickets that include accomodation. Perhaps get a group of friends together, book tickets and come see for yourself! Over 20 wine farms present - worth it! Its an attempt to get people to know about the village and to finally and hopefully get it fully operational.

Liako
13/11/2014 08:37:26 am

Thaba Bosiu cultural vill...its now open

Reply
Roxanne link
15/11/2014 01:55:26 am

Thanks for the heads up, Liako. That's great news.

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Theunis
24/3/2015 10:34:08 am

Can anybody confirm if the chalets at Bokong are ready for accommodation?

Reply
Roxanne link
25/3/2015 02:43:19 am

Theunis, I've put your question out to some of my Twitter contacts in Lesotho and will let you know if they come up with a concrete answer.

Reply
Lerato
1/6/2015 04:05:48 am

This country is a GEM!!! There are chalets in Mohale as well that till today have not been in operation.
Lesotho has the potential to cover its GDP tremendously by tourism alone but the red tape and politics are hindering its growth potential.

Reply
Roxanne
3/6/2015 08:44:33 am

Indeed, Lerato, it just breaks my heart.

Reply
Di link
14/7/2015 02:02:48 am

sad, but true. Beautifully written. Please come and visit Malealea Lodge, The Trading Post at Roma & Ramabanta, Semonkong Lodge on the central and south western side of Lesotho. Unspoilt, welcoming and natural.

Reply
Roxanne link
14/7/2015 03:27:05 am

Di, we've stayed at Semonkong Lodge and loved it, specially hearing about Basotho blankets and watching the blanketed locals go by on their ponies and donkeys. We stopped at the Trading Post in Roma for tea. Gorgeous places. Malealea is definitely on our list for next time.

Reply
Lineo
15/7/2015 07:59:36 am

I was at the cultural village on the 6/July/2015. The tour of the village was wonderful, it is unfortunate that it is not yet opened for the people to use for events such as weddings and other things. Yes the restaurant is opened. Preparations are underway to have it fully functional - I hope it happens fast - it is such a beautiful place to sleep-over and get married.

Reply
Roxanne link
15/7/2015 09:42:29 am

Thanks for this update, Lineo, I'm glad to hear the village and restaurant are open. I;m sure once it's open for events/weddings it will start to pay for its own upkeep.

Reply
Tlali Nchai
15/7/2015 09:19:28 am

The problem with Bokong like Mohale is that once they were handed over to the Ministry of Tourism, Environment and Culture, they have since been in a worst state of disrepair. The same goes for the route leading to Katse from Hlotse in the Leribe district, it is now delapidated and in a dire need for repairs. Such are thing here in lesotho

Reply
Roxanne link
15/7/2015 09:43:52 am

Such a shame, Tlali. There's so much potential in beautiful Lesotho but obviously it needs everyone to work together.

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Tlali Nchai
16/7/2015 01:12:23 am

Indeed Roxanne, people must work together to right these wrongs. It seems as if the receiving government Ministries still expect the Project to take care of some of the developments the Project came up with, a worst strain of the dependency syndrome.

Michael
26/5/2016 02:12:28 pm

Hi Roxanne, I also came accross this thread searching for the place. We went a few months ago, but there was no electricity in the chalets. They now have electricity, but it seems the houses have nothing inside other than a few mattresses on the floors. They need to have bed bases still from what I can understand, so it is understandable why they only ask for R500 a night for the entire 3 bedroom place. By the way, I went inside when there was no electricity, and it is GORGEOUS!!

Reply
Roxanne
27/5/2016 10:50:16 am

Thanks for the update, Michael. I assume you're talking about the chalets at Bokong? I keep wishing to hear everything is sorted and they're operating at full throttle; Lesotho needs the tourism revenue.

Reply
Anton
24/4/2017 01:34:05 pm

I stayed over at Bokong during May 2016.

It was great!

Reply
Roxanne
24/4/2017 04:18:22 pm

Thanks for letting us know, Anton. I'm so glad to hear that it has been finished and opened for business.

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Rethabile
25/4/2018 06:08:33 pm

The Thaba Bosiu Cultural Village is now open. And fully operational I might add,so sorry about your dissapointments though. They have awesome lunches and their rondavels are accomodating for self catering as well

Reply
Roxanne
27/4/2018 10:26:41 am

Great to hear that, Rethabile. It certainly looked like it was going to be impressive.

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Atang
21/10/2020 12:36:24 pm

Have anyone been been to Bokong recently (2020)? Is it operational and what are the rates, i am planning for a retreat in December where i can spend sometime by myself but it seems like Bokong doesnt have a website. It looks like such a wonderful place.

Reply
Roxanne Reid
21/10/2020 01:14:38 pm

It's a super setting and I did heard it was now open with fairly reasonable rates but I don't know what it's like or how to book if they dont have a website. Perhaps try Googling Lesotho tourism - called Visit Lesotho - to see if they can help.

Reply
Tsepo Khoboko
20/9/2021 03:51:18 pm

Thanks for the wonderful feedback, whats dissapointing is that all these beautiful facilities now fall under the ministry of tourism and no initiative taken to improve them, disappointing

Reply
Roxanne Reid
20/9/2021 06:03:29 pm

I have to sat that we visited Thaba Bosiu more recently and loved it. See https://www.roxannereid.co.za/blog/why-to-visit-thaba-bosiu-cultural-village-in-lesotho

Reply
Refiloe
19/8/2023 05:31:46 pm

Good day everyone, I am saddened to learn of the lost opportunity to explore our beautiful country. I would like to thank you Roxanne for being optimistic about our country and replying in your thread. My name is Refiloe Mokuoane and I am happy to let you know that as of September 2023 the company I work for "Mahlakapese Holdings" has partnered with the government of Lesotho to Manage, Renovate and operate Bokong Lodge which will also be called Mahlakapese Mountain Retreat. The renovation will take 6-8 months and we surly promise you an experience like nothing before. Do keep my email once open we will surely be glad to give you a complementary night on us for such a great display of love for Lesotho. And to everyone who has been disappointed, we promise to give you a unique experience. We are working very hard as the private sector to see to it that Lesotho becomes the best preferred home for everyone. We assure you that Lesotho will not be a destination but a home to all

Reply
Roxanne Reid
22/8/2023 12:56:51 pm

Such great news! We'll definitely put it on our to-do list for a return trip to Lesotho. Some great views and hikes in the area too.

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    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
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