Paternoster accommodation: where to stay on the West Coast

By Roxanne Reid
White sandy beaches, blue seas, fishing boats and seafood – these are just a few of many things that make Paternoster a popular getaway. Whether you’re looking for camping, budget self-catering or a luxury five-star lodge, there’s something for you in this guide to Paternoster accommodation: where to stay on the West Coast.

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It’s almost absurd how many Paternoster accommodation choices there are - lodges, B&Bs or self-catering cottages. Leigh Longden, general manager of the five-star boutique hotel, Abalone House, told us there are 4 hotels, 18 guesthouses, 152 self-catering establishments and 14 restaurants in Paternoster, which is on the West Coast Way’s Foodie Route. So pardon me, but if you can’t find somewhere cool to stay you just aren’t trying very hard.

Compared to 30 years ago when there wasn’t much more than a hotel and a sprinkling of old fishermen’s houses, it’s hard to believe the growth that’s happened here. Hard to believe the prices too; browsing the windows of estate agents revealed an average of around R3 to R5 million if you want to buy your own house, with a few coming in at an astonishing R9 million. 

Here’s how you can get a piece of Paternoster heaven, even for just a few days.
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Abalone House Boutique Hotel

If you’re looking for quality in luxuriously comfy surroundings, look no further than the five-star boutique hotel, Abalone House. Inside you’ll find a tapestry of rich colours and interesting spaces, each of which is small enough to feel intimate without being claustrophobic. I entertained myself for a long time just nosing around and admiring the paintings, sculpture and objects d’art.

​There’s a central courtyard fringed by wicker chairs with bright orange cushions. A wooden walkway cuts it in two and provides access to the library, while ground-level rooms also lead off the courtyard.

​We went up some narrow stairs to get to our steep-eaved room where we had a view of the sea from a tiny patio and the bathroom smelt of lemon verbena. Some of the suites have their own sea-facing private decks and I saw an inviting Jacuzzi on the upstairs deck. It doesn’t feel like a hotel, more like someone’s elegant house that has grown organically into a maze of lovely spaces on two levels.

For extra treats, there’s a spa using African inspired therapies and ingredients like Kalahari melon and marula. At the in-house Reuben’s restaurant we enjoyed dinner on a wooden deck overlooking the sea – a delicious lamb shank and malva pudding with granadilla sorbet for a piquant kick. Breakfasts at Reuben’s are a feast of fresh fruit and feather-light pastries for those who don’t do the whole hot breakfast thing – or those who like to make breakfast a multi-course banquet.
 
Paternoster Lodge

The four-star Paternoster Lodge looks out over the long white beach and the sea beyond. It’s a small lodge with just seven rooms, each of them a spacious white-and-cream area with tiled floors and perhaps a trio of framed abalone shells as artwork. I particularly enjoyed our large corner bath, which begged to be wallowed in. A bottle of champagne and some flowers floating on the water would have made it perfect.

Although the lodge’s Skatkis restaurant lacks character in terms of decor, we’ve enjoyed good food there, from fish and chips and butternut soup to mushroom-and-peppadew omelettes at breakfast. Its best feature is the verandah where you can watch the moonlight creeping over the ocean in the evening (no wonder this is a popular venue for wedding receptions) or little boats putting out to sea in search of fish in the morning.

How to find your Paternoster accommodation

Afristay, Travelground and SafariNow are good places to start looking for where to stay in Paternoster. You’ll find listings for full service lodges like Abalone House and Paternoster Lodge, as well as self-catering rentals and B&Bs. Enter your dates, select your ‘must haves’ like pool, gym or dishwasher and sit back while the website sorts through the available options. Read reviews from people who have stayed there to guide your final choice. Then simply book directly on the site, easy peasy (or contact the host directly for more info).

You can also find inspiration at Stay in Paternoster, whether you want somewhere for a couple in Bekbaai, a family in the Voorstrand, or a crowd of friends at Mosselbank. Select according to the price you want to pay, from shoestring and budget to luxury and ‘all the bells and whistles’.​

Cape Columbine reserve
Sea Shack

Not far from the entrance to the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve just outside Paternoster, you’ll find the Sea Shack. There are ten little wooden cabins with only enough room for a double bed or two singles. It’s off the grid but the cabins share communal eco-loos and gas showers, and there are solar lights and a communal cooking/bar area. 

Stumble out of bed and on to the beach or watch the sunset over the ocean. I’d love to book all 10 cabins for family and friends. I’m less sure that I’d enjoy sharing it with strangers – but you may be more sociable than me!

Lighthouse chalet

Stay in an old light-keeper’s cottage next to the Cape Columbine lighthouse inside the reserve. Once the reserve gates close in the afternoon you’ll have the place to yourslves. Reservations, tel 021-4492400, email lighthouse.tourism@transnet.net

Tieties Bay campsites

If you can stop yourself giggling every time you hear the name of this campsite (Tieties are boobs), and you don’t mind basic camping, this is the place for you. There are about 60 sites for tents or caravans. More ablutions have been built, but there are still not enough for the hordes who descend here in the December/January holidays. Sites near the ablutions are popular, but if you’re prepared to walk far you could choose a secluded spot further away. There are no power points at the sites, but the views out to sea make this a beautiful spot when the wind isn’t blowing sand into your tent. Reservations, tel 022-7522718, email Ronnie.Martins@sbm.gov.za.

And of course, there’s a boatload of things to do in Paternoster, including long walks on the beach, kayaking, whale-watching, a visit to the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve and lighthouse, and the delight of sampling a few of the 14 Paternoster restaurants.

Note: I was a guest of Abalone House and Paternoster Lodge for one night each, but had free rein to write what I liked. I paid for all travel costs.

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