By Roxanne Reid
The route via Alexander Bay to Sendelingsdrif gate is certainly the quickest way to get to the South African side of the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, but it’s not very attractive (thanks to diamond mining operations that have scarred the landscape). Luckily, there’s a more scenic alternative. And you can stay over too.
The route via Alexander Bay to Sendelingsdrif gate is certainly the quickest way to get to the South African side of the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, but it’s not very attractive (thanks to diamond mining operations that have scarred the landscape). Luckily, there’s a more scenic alternative. And you can stay over too.
If you take the R382 west from Steinkopf (about 60km north of Springbok on the N7), you’ll pass a couple of turnoffs to your right. They lead to the small settlements of Eksteenfontein, Lekkersing and Kuboes in the Richtersveld Community Conservancy.
I think the road via Eksteenfontein to Kuboes is the more scenic route, but it’s quite rough beyond Eksteenfontein so it’s best for 4x4s or at least vehicles with high clearance. The more westerly turnoff via Lekkersing to Kuboes is suitable for normal sedans (though of course a sedan isn’t going to get you beyond Sendelingsdrif inside the park itself, so you probably won’t be visiting this remote outpost in one anyway).
I think the road via Eksteenfontein to Kuboes is the more scenic route, but it’s quite rough beyond Eksteenfontein so it’s best for 4x4s or at least vehicles with high clearance. The more westerly turnoff via Lekkersing to Kuboes is suitable for normal sedans (though of course a sedan isn’t going to get you beyond Sendelingsdrif inside the park itself, so you probably won’t be visiting this remote outpost in one anyway).
Eksteenfontein
Each of the three towns offers simple accommodation for travellers. If you plan it right, you might even be able to watch a few sets of the local Namastap dancing.
Eksteenfontein's pint-sized info centre
The helpful info centre in River Street, Eksteenfontein, can help you find and book accommodation at the Rooiberg Guesthouse 15km from the town or the community-run Kom Rus ’n Bietjie opposite the info centre. We had a very enjoyable stay a few years ago at the Villa Rosa Guesthouse.
Villa Rosa Guesthouse
At Lekkersing, a tiny stone quarrying town, you can camp or stay in small chalets at Koerdap.
At Kuboes, which has a pretty 19th-century church, you can try the Mountain Valley Guesthouse (previously called the Plantasie) which comprises four self-catering chalets on the edge of town. Remember to ask them to turn on the geyser or you’ll be showering in cold water.
For info and bookings at Eksteenfontein, Lekkersing and Kuboes, tel 027-7128036, email [email protected].
At Kuboes, which has a pretty 19th-century church, you can try the Mountain Valley Guesthouse (previously called the Plantasie) which comprises four self-catering chalets on the edge of town. Remember to ask them to turn on the geyser or you’ll be showering in cold water.
For info and bookings at Eksteenfontein, Lekkersing and Kuboes, tel 027-7128036, email [email protected].
Mountain Valley, Kuboes
Accommodation inside the park
Sendelingsdrif has 10 chalets in the style of an old mining camp and makes a good kick-off point into the park. The campsite here (6 sites) used to be soulless, so I preferred to stay in the chalets or do the extra 9km to the beautiful Potjiespram campsite (18 sites). But a return visit in July 2016 showed the Sendelingsdrift campsite had been cleaned and tidied up - a vast improvement. There’s also now a nature garden and herbarium next to the campsite, serving the triple purpose of being pretty, teaching visitors the names of some plants they might find in the park, and creating an important gene-pool of the Richtersveld’s important plants.
Potjiespram campsite used to be along the river until the 2011 flood changed the course of the river. A return visit in June 2018 showed that the sites have been cleared of debris and overgrowth, creating lovely shady enclaves in the bush that are still a pleasure to camp at although the river isn't as close as it used to be.
Sendelingsdrif chalets are well-appointed (aircon, kitchen with microwave, fridge and double hotplate, etc) and a braai patio overlooks the Orange River. On our visit in 2013 we were lucky it was a weekend so there was little noise from the mining camp nearby. If you visited during the week when the mining village next door swung into life, you used to hear truck engines and the irritating beep-beep of them backing up. But the mine closed in 2015 and has not been reopened, so this is no longer a problem for visitors.
Sendelingsdrif has 10 chalets in the style of an old mining camp and makes a good kick-off point into the park. The campsite here (6 sites) used to be soulless, so I preferred to stay in the chalets or do the extra 9km to the beautiful Potjiespram campsite (18 sites). But a return visit in July 2016 showed the Sendelingsdrift campsite had been cleaned and tidied up - a vast improvement. There’s also now a nature garden and herbarium next to the campsite, serving the triple purpose of being pretty, teaching visitors the names of some plants they might find in the park, and creating an important gene-pool of the Richtersveld’s important plants.
Potjiespram campsite used to be along the river until the 2011 flood changed the course of the river. A return visit in June 2018 showed that the sites have been cleared of debris and overgrowth, creating lovely shady enclaves in the bush that are still a pleasure to camp at although the river isn't as close as it used to be.
Sendelingsdrif chalets are well-appointed (aircon, kitchen with microwave, fridge and double hotplate, etc) and a braai patio overlooks the Orange River. On our visit in 2013 we were lucky it was a weekend so there was little noise from the mining camp nearby. If you visited during the week when the mining village next door swung into life, you used to hear truck engines and the irritating beep-beep of them backing up. But the mine closed in 2015 and has not been reopened, so this is no longer a problem for visitors.
Sendelingsdrif
Even if you’re just passing through to your first night at Potjiespram, stop at the little restaurant overlooking the river at Sendelingsdrif. We enjoyed a really good toasted chicken sandwich and chips while we rubber-necked down at the pont, which was chugging 4x4s two by two like Noah’s Ark across the river between the Namibian and South African parts of the transfrontier park. We also bought some delicious freshly baked banana cupcakes from the shop for the journey. [Update, July 2016: sadly, this restaurant is now closed, probably because it couldn't make a living once the mine closed.]
Potjiespram
Other options include 12 campsites at De Hoop, 12 at Richtersberg, both along the river and with ablutions (cold showers). There are also 8 campsites at Kokerboomkloof, which is set inland among beautiful rocks just perfect for photographing when the light is soft. There’s no water here (dry toilets only), so bring your own.
De Hoop
Richtersveld also has two wilderness camps, Tatasberg on the river and Gannakouriep inland. Each has four simple 2-bed chalets with hot-water ablutions, solar-powered lights and gas fridge/cooker.
Tatasberg chalet
The view at Tatasberg
A word of warning: the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park is not an area for amateurs, dabblers or wimps. It’s rough wilderness country with steep rocky passes and deep sand. You may average just 15-20km/h. But more about that in another post, when I’ll also tell you why it’s definitely, absolutely and utterly worth the effort.
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
