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Where to stay in the Richtersveld

24/7/2013

37 Comments

 
Richtersveld Transfrontier Park
By Roxanne Reid
The route via Alexander Bay to Sendelingsdrif gate is certainly the quickest way to get to the South African side of the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, but it’s not very attractive (thanks to diamond mining operations that have scarred the landscape). Luckily, there’s a more scenic alternative. And you can stay over too.

If you take the R382 west from Steinkopf (about 60km north of Springbok on the N7), you’ll pass a couple of turnoffs to your right. They lead to the small settlements of Eksteenfontein, Lekkersing and Kuboes in the Richtersveld Community Conservancy.

I think the road via Eksteenfontein to Kuboes is the more scenic route, but it’s quite rough beyond Eksteenfontein so it’s best for 4x4s or at least vehicles with high clearance. The more westerly turnoff via Lekkersing to Kuboes is suitable for normal sedans (though of course a sedan isn’t going to get you beyond Sendelingsdrif inside the park itself, so you probably won’t be visiting this remote outpost in one anyway).
Eksteenfontein, Richtersveld Community Conservancy
Eksteenfontein
Each of the three towns offers simple accommodation for travellers. If you plan it right, you might even be able to watch a few sets of the local Namastap dancing. 
Eksteenfontein info centre, Richtersveld
Eksteenfontein's pint-sized info centre
The helpful info centre in River Street, Eksteenfontein, can help you find and book accommodation at the Rooiberg Guesthouse 15km from the town or the community-run Kom Rus ’n Bietjie opposite the info centre. We had a very enjoyable stay a few years ago at the Villa Rosa Guesthouse.
Where to stay, Eksteenfontein, Richtersveld Community Conservancy
Villa Rosa Guesthouse
At Lekkersing, a tiny stone quarrying town, you can camp or stay in small chalets at Koerdap. 

​
At Kuboes, which has a pretty 19th-century church, you can try the Mountain Valley Guesthouse (previously called the Plantasie) which comprises four self-catering chalets on the edge of town. Remember to ask them to turn on the geyser or you’ll be showering in cold water.

For info and bookings at Eksteenfontein, Lekkersing and Kuboes, tel 027-7128036, email [email protected]. 
Where to stay, Kuboes, Richtersveld Community Conservancy
Mountain Valley, Kuboes
Accommodation inside the park
Sendelingsdrif
 has 10 chalets in the style of an old mining camp and makes a good kick-off point into the park. The campsite here (6 sites) used to be soulless, so I preferred to stay in the chalets or do the extra 9km to the beautiful Potjiespram campsite (18 sites). But a return visit in July 2016 showed the Sendelingsdrift campsite had been cleaned and tidied up - a vast improvement. There’s also now a nature garden and herbarium next to the campsite, serving the triple purpose of being pretty, teaching visitors the names of some plants they might find in the park, and creating an important gene-pool of the Richtersveld’s important plants.
Potjiespram campsite used to be along the river until the 2011 flood changed the course of the river. A return visit in June 2018 showed that the sites have been cleared of debris and overgrowth, creating lovely shady enclaves in the bush that are still a pleasure to camp at although the river isn't as close as it used to be. 

Sendelingsdrif chalets are well-appointed (aircon, kitchen with microwave, fridge and double hotplate, etc) and a braai patio overlooks the Orange River. On our visit in 2013 we were lucky it was a weekend so there was little noise from the mining camp nearby. If you visited during the week when the mining village next door swung into life, you used to hear truck engines and the irritating beep-beep of them backing up. But the mine closed in 2015 and has not been reopened, so this is no longer a problem for visitors.
Sendelingsdrif, Richtersveld
Sendelingsdrif
Even if you’re just passing through to your first night at Potjiespram, stop at the little restaurant overlooking the river at Sendelingsdrif. We enjoyed a really good toasted chicken sandwich and chips while we rubber-necked down at the pont, which was chugging 4x4s two by two like Noah’s Ark across the river between the Namibian and South African parts of the transfrontier park. We also bought some delicious freshly baked banana cupcakes from the shop for the journey. [Update, July 2016: sadly, this restaurant is now closed, probably because it couldn't make a living once the mine closed.]
Potjiespram, Richtersveld
Potjiespram
Other options include 12 campsites at De Hoop, 12 at Richtersberg, both along the river and with ablutions (cold showers). There are also 8 campsites at Kokerboomkloof, which is set inland among beautiful rocks just perfect for photographing when the light is soft. There’s no water here (dry toilets only), so bring your own.
De Hoop, Richtersveld
De Hoop
Richtersveld also has two wilderness camps, Tatasberg on the river and Gannakouriep inland. Each has four simple 2-bed chalets with hot-water ablutions, solar-powered lights and gas fridge/cooker.
Tatasberg, Richtersveld
Tatasberg chalet
Tatasberg, Richtersveld
The view at Tatasberg
A word of warning: the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park is not an area for amateurs, dabblers or wimps. It’s rough wilderness country with steep rocky passes and deep sand. You may average just 15-20km/h. But more about that in another post, when I’ll also tell you why it’s definitely, absolutely and utterly worth the effort.

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Where to stay in the Richtersveld #SouthAfrica #travel
Where to stay in the Richtersveld #SouthAfrica #travel
More about the Richtersveld 

Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
37 Comments
John Kriel
6/8/2013 09:00:15 am

Enjoyed reading your comments.
The place has developed since we were there!

Reply
Roxanne link
6/8/2013 09:56:57 am

Thanks John. Yes, we were last there in 2004 and there are lots of changes since then. Luckily the scenery is unchanged.

Reply
Mike
28/1/2015 04:17:02 am

Can anyone tell me if one can travel by normal car (i.e. not 4x4) from Alexander Bay to Sendelingsdrif? I did it in a VW Golf in the 80's but ma not sure if the road has improved or deteriorated since then? Second question is if anyone knows of camp sites between A Bay and Sendelingsdrif?

Reply
Roxanne link
29/1/2015 09:09:26 am

Hi Mike, last time I did the Alexander Bay to Sendelingsdrif route was late 2013 and it would have been fine then for a normal sedan, though a few patches were badly corrugated. Not sure what it would be like after heavy rains though. I know of no campsites between Alex Bay and Sendelingdrif, but perhaps Alex Bay tourist info can help. www.alexanderbay.co.za

Reply
Mike
30/1/2015 02:23:01 am

Thanks for your quick reply. I'll definitely phone Alex Bay before going up. There seems to be camp sites at Brandkaros between Alex Bay and Sendelingsdrif. I must say that a I "Google-earthed" the route between Alex Bay and Sendelingdrif and am not easily shocked, but was quite taken aback at what mining has done to the environment. Just like CDM and what they did and did not do (rehabilitation) at Oranjemund. Lost my appetite for visiting. The last time I went to sendelingsdrif the mine there (and people) had been abandoned by the owner, a senior PFP personality. It was quite eerie walking through the clubhouse etc. Thanks again (we now thinking of going to Richtersveld Wilderness Camp near Noordoewer!

Roxanne link
30/1/2015 06:30:21 am

I agree that it's sad to see the effect of the diamond mine on the area, Mike. I highlighted this in another blog http://ow.ly/IcRJS . It's an uneasy cohabitation of mining and wilderness area. But once you get deep into the wilderness area (away from Sendelingsdrif) it really is magnificent. If you have friends with a 4x4, try to twist their arm to take you there; you won't be sorry.

Reply
Deon Mostert
22/5/2015 04:05:10 am

Hi all
I'm trying to contact someone at Lekkersing or Koerdap but all the numbers above 'does not exist'? I'm interested to contact Sintie or Sara Cloete re. accommodation in August. Can someone assist?

Reply
Roxanne
22/5/2015 04:53:58 am

Hi Deon, the lines often don't work there and some of these numbers from a few years back may have changed. My advice is to google Lekkersing Tourism or Richtersveld Tourism in the hope of finding an email address.I'm travelling at present on a really slow connection so I can't offer to google for you. (But thanks for the heads up that the numbers above aren't working!)

Reply
cuan
17/8/2015 11:41:53 am

Hi -I ve never been to the Richtersveld ,but would like to know if one is allowed to camp outside of the designated campsites -so in other words just in the wilderness?

Reply
Roxanne
19/8/2015 11:54:55 am

No you may not, Cuan, or at least not that I know of.

Reply
Wendy Pieterse
6/5/2016 12:17:00 pm

Reply
Roxanne
3/2/2017 03:50:43 pm

We planning on travelling from Vioolsdrift via Esteensfonrein, Kuboes to Sendelingsdrif and want to spend one night camping before we entering the Park at Sendeingsdrif, were can we find place to camp.
All the number I found on the internet does not exist.

Reply
Roxanne
3/2/2017 04:01:32 pm

Roxanne, some of the phone lines in the area are dodgy so the best bet would either be to use the email for Namaqua Tourism I gave above (which was correct when I updated it three months ago), to look up the tel number for Namaqua Tourism on Google, or simply to rock up if you don't mind not having a confirmed booking.

Reply
Blanche
3/4/2018 05:03:51 pm

Hi we want to go to the richtersveld for the first time . We have a Toyota 4x4 . I would love some advice on which is the best part of the area .... The national park or the heritage site? We don't have time to do both and will be going onto Namibia afterwards. Also the best route in ? Between going into Namibia and back in through sendlingsdrif or west from STeinkopfand up to lekker sing and onto to Kuboes. Are these last two places really worth a visit and not to be missed? Thanks so much anyone out there who sees this

Reply
Roxanne
3/4/2018 07:51:01 pm

It depends on what your main interests are, Blanche. Kuboes and Lekkersing and Eksteenfontein are best for people who enjoy cultural heritage (especially if you participate in some Nama dancing), but the transfrontier park itself if more about nature and wilderness. Sendelingsdrift itself is not the prettiest part of the Richtersveld, so I'd advise spending at least a day or two at De Hoop or Tatasberg, because the drive there is so beautiful.

Reply
Nico link
13/11/2018 02:57:36 pm

Hi Roxanne, Is there only one way into the park and one way out?

Reply
Roxanne
3/12/2018 10:19:54 am

No, Nico. The main entrances/exits are at Sendelingsdrif (two of them, one from/to Alexander Bay side and one over the pont from/to Namibia and the Ai-Ais section of the park). There's also an entrance gate at Helskloof about 25km or so north of Kuboes.

Reply
Tirzha
9/12/2018 01:18:46 pm

Ek is opsoek na die nuutste inligting van beste pad vanaf Alexanderbaai met Gaste huise na Helmeringshouse via sendelingsdrift kan iemand hier help asb dankie

Reply
Roxanne
9/12/2018 07:32:06 pm

As far as I know, Tirzha, from Alexander Bay to Sendelingsdrift and then over the pont to Rosh Pinah, and then via Aus to Helmeringshaus is very doable. We last did the Rosh Pinah/Aus road in mid 2018 and there were no problems.

Reply
Dirk
11/7/2020 07:53:09 pm

Hi Roxanne. Thanks for this informative post. Shouldn't R385 read "R382"?

Reply
Roxanne
11/7/2020 07:59:41 pm

You're quite right, Dirk; thanks for picking that up. I've corrected it now.

Reply
Lourens Kotze
8/8/2020 06:12:52 pm

Hi Roxanne, we have a booking for the Richtersveld National Park during the first half of September 2020. We will be travel via Port Nolloth, Alexander Bay and will check-in at Sendelingsdrif Camp.
We are booked to spend the last two nights at Ganakouriep Wilderness Camp.
Two questions:
1) Do we, en-route to Sendelingsdrif, pass through the RNP entry gate near Helskloof Pass without driving through the Park?
2) Leaving Ganakouriep Wilderness Camp, can we exit the Park via the Helskloof and the Park gate nearby (below)?
The reason why we wish to do so, is that we wish to drive to Vioolsdrift via Kuboes, Eksteensfontein, and the 4x4 route via 'the other Helskloof' Pass.
Thanks

Reply
Roxanne
21/8/2020 08:00:22 pm

Lourens, from Alexander Bay the quickest entry gate is Sendelingsdrift itself, not Hels Gate. Leaving Gannakouriep you can I think in theory leave by Helskloof Gate though I haven't done it myself. But if I were you I would check directly with the park first. Depending on the road conditions (e.g. there has been a lot of rain recently), that route might be closed. You can get the relevant contact details on their website here: https://www.sanparks.org/parks/richtersveld/tourism/general.php#contact

Reply
John Knowles
17/8/2020 06:35:02 pm

Could someone kindly tell me where is the nearest guest house/BB which would do an evening meal, to the north entrance at Sendelingsdrif? Thanking you in anticipation. I am not a camper!!!

John Knowles

Reply
Roxanne
21/8/2020 07:45:03 pm

I really don't know, John. The nearest would probably be Alexander Bay but that's a huge distance away along a really bad road. Why not stay in the chalets at Sendelingsdrift and just bring a picnic or home-cooked meal with you to heat in the microwave. You don't have to camp!

Reply
DJ VENTER
5/10/2020 11:05:21 am

Please let me know where can I buy your book?

Reply
Roxanne
6/10/2020 07:36:00 pm

A Walk in the Park is now only available as an ebook from Amazon - see https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017ZZ56SI

Reply
Patrick Mooney link
23/2/2021 01:21:52 pm

Hi Roxanne, loved your article. My wife and I planning a trip to Richtersveld from Durban in April . Very long drive ....any ideas on nice halfway stopover and accomodation on arrival prior to actually entering park to explore and cape , thanks ?

Reply
Roxanne
23/2/2021 04:12:31 pm

Thanks, Patrick. Hard to know because we don't travel that route coming from Cape Town. I can recommend Mokala National Park just outside Kimberley, which is about halfway, but it wouldn't be worth it for a single night. (See https://www.roxannereid.co.za/blog/15-things-to-do-at-mokala-national-park)
A one-night stopover might be Oranjerus near Upington, really nice campsite with rooms as well, but that's more like 1200km (see https://www.roxannereid.co.za/blog/oranjerus-stop-over-at-keimoes-in-the-green-kalahari)
If you needed to stop outside the park, have a look at Port Nolloth.
Hope that helps.

Reply
Graham Wren link
22/4/2021 07:31:34 am

Hi Roxanne, we’re planning a trip from KZN to the West Coast and your articles have been so informative thank you. We have a 2x4 SUV & trailer and are planning 2 nights camping in Richtersveld. Please assist in 3 areas. It appears that Potjiespram is a better choice than Sendelingsdrif, even though you say the latter has improved - would it be your 1st choice? Secondly, is Potjiespram accessible without 4x4, diff lock and with a trailer? Lastly, am I correct in saying that no other campsites are accessible with our vehicle above. Thanks a mil in advance

Reply
Roxanne
22/4/2021 08:26:52 am

To be honest, Graham, I don't think you'll get the best out of the Richtersveld without a 4x4. You can go to Sendelingsdrift (which now has a much nicer campsite than it used to), but even Potjiespram would be a challenge with your vehicle and a trailer as there are some deep sand patches on the way. The road to the entry gate is very bad with corrugations so ensure you have lots of time to go slowly or you'll rip your tyres. If you like, you can contact the hospitality and services manager to confirm what I've said about accessing Porjiespram, email [email protected], tel 078 572 1047.

Reply
Roxanne
22/4/2021 09:15:18 am

Oh, and I wouldn't try to access any of the other camps without a 4x4, Graham. Although the locals who are very experienced could maybe swing it in a 2x4 without a trailer, it's not worth pushing it in this hot and arid environment and getting stuck where no one comes by to help and there's no cellphone signal to call for help either.

Alison Duncan
4/7/2021 04:59:31 pm

Hi Roxanne how many days would you suggest to spend in the Richtersveld? We are thinking of 3 days but don't know if that will be enough

Reply
Roxanne
4/7/2021 05:09:41 pm

How long is a piece of string? It depends, Alison, on what you're looking for. If you want to spend time in the community areas like Khubus and Eksteenfontein, that would be at least 2 days right there. Inside the park, it depends if you like to move camp every day or stay in one place for 2-3 days. My personal best trip inside the park would be overnighting at Sendelingsdrift (because it's a long way to get there - there's both camping and chalets), then spending at least two days at De Hoop or Richtersberg (camping) or Tatasberg or Gannakouriep (chalets) and then another 2 days at Kokerboomkloof (camping) before heading back to Sendelingsdrift. Chances are you're coming a long way and you may never come back, so I'd say 5 days. But 3 days is certainly better than nothing.
A couple of MUSTS are Akkedis Pass and Domrogh Pass - see https://www.roxannereid.co.za/blog/tatasberg-camp-richtersveld-de-clutter-your-mind.

Reply
Alison Duncan
4/7/2021 05:23:19 pm

Awesome. Thank you so much

Victor Taute
8/11/2022 05:02:04 pm

Good day Roxanne, Thank you for your publications about various places to which I have traveled, it is educational, interesting and of great help! We plan to go to the Richtersveld Transfrontier Park and as part of our planned tour will be en route from Springbok to Gannakouriep. Is there access to the Park at Helskloof Gate and do you by chance know the distance from Springbok to Helskloof Gate?

Reply
Roxanne Reid
11/11/2022 07:13:01 pm

There is access via Helskloof Gate, Victor, but you still need to go via Sendelingsdrift for the formal check in process. According to Google the distance from Springbok is 244km but I'm not sure that's correct. There's a Sanparks - AI-Ais Richtersveld group on Facebook where the park manager is always helpful. Why not search for it and ask to join?

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