Roxanne Reid - Africa Addict
  • Home
  • Book author
    • Travels in the Kalahari >
      • Photo gallery: Travels in the Kalahari
      • Book reviews: Travels in the Kalahari
    • A Walk in the Park >
      • Photo gallery: A Walk in the Park
      • Book reviews: A Walk in the Park
    • The Essential Guide to Self-Editing >
      • Book reviews: Essential Guide to Self-Editing
    • Betrayed
    • Book reviews online
  • Editing & proofreading
  • In the media
    • Travel features
    • Health features
    • Online media
  • Blog
  • Testimonials
  • Links
  • Contact

Why Namibia's Ai-Ais Resort didn't rock my socks

1/2/2017

8 Comments

 
Ai-Ais Resort, Fish River Canyon, Namibia
By Roxanne Reid
The first time we went to Namibia’s Ai-Ais resort in the Fish River Canyon in the 1990s, campers were packed in so tight you couldn’t have found space for a toothpick. I hadn’t been back for more than 20 years but I discovered that it still didn’t rock my socks. Here’s why.

​From the time we turned off the main road on to the C10 until we arrived at Namibia Wildlife Resorts’ Ai-Ais camp 73km later, we didn’t pass a single vehicle. A post-apocalyptic movie set surrounded us, dark rocky koppies, barren plains of sand, shale and stones, with little sign of how any life form could survive out there. All was eerily still as the midday sun scalded the air and made it hard to breathe.
Ai-Ais Resort, Fish River Canyon, Namibia
​Then Ai-Ais appeared like a settlement from different planet, its grass, palms, acacias and fever trees forming splashes of green against the burnt rocks. The ghostly solitude we’d felt on the approach road was gone and the place was hopping with campers and cyclists who’d just completed a mountain biking event and were looking grubby but smug.
Ai-Ais Resort, Fish River Canyon, Namibia
When I signed in for our overnight stop I noticed that many people were booked in for two weeks so the resort with its indoor and outdoor pools and its spa complex is obviously very popular with southern Namibians. Ai-Ais means ‘burning water’ – a nod to the sulphurous hot springs here, discovered in the mid 19th century by a Nama herder while searching for lost sheep.
Ai-Ais Resort, Fish River Canyon, Namibia
​We found an unoccupied spot on the far side of the campsite, overlooking the riverbed at the southern end of the Fish River Canyon. Without cover it was as hot as molten lead. Baboons roamed the campsite looking for trouble, but keeping our food hidden away was an easy way to keep them at bay.

​Far worse were the people pumping out loud music five stands away from ours, selfishly spewing their choices over the rest of us. 
Ai-Ais Resort, Fish River Canyon, Namibia
The sun disappeared behind a koppie shortly before 16:00, giving the rocks a soft rose tinge that stripped away their forbidding aspect. The air cooled slightly and we watched the full moon rise over a koppie to the east as we sipped a cold beer.
Ai-Ais Resort, Fish River Canyon, Namibia
I’m not sure how many campsites there are at Ai-Ais, but it’s a lot. And when it’s busy – which seems to be all the time, judging by my two experiences over 20 years! – the smoke from everyone’s braais creates a pall that hangs heavy in the hot air. That night I fell asleep with a small fan blasting to cool me, ear plugs keeping out the thud of loud music and a burning sensation in my throat from the smoke pollution.
Ai-Ais Resort, Fish River Canyon, Namibia
But I’m pleased I went back, if only to confirm that it’s one of my least favourite campsites in Namibia. Unless you’re here because you’ve hiked the Fish River Canyon, to plunge into the hot springs or laze at the outdoor pool – when you’ll probably love it – you may as well not bother.
Ai-Ais Resort, Fish River Canyon, Namibia
For us the best thing was a really cold beer from the bar. That’s something Namibians definitely understand – the importance of a cold beer.

So what campsites do I like, then? Well, these three: NamibRand, Little Hunter's Rest in the Namtib Biosphere and Klein Aus Vista's Desert Horse campsite. What's your favourite campsite in southern Namibia? Share it in the comments below.

Like the post? Pin this image!
Ai-Ais campsite, Fish River Canyon, Namibia #camping #Namibia #travel
​Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
8 Comments
Wayne
1/2/2017 08:48:43 pm

I agree. It's an busy. Too many people crammed into a small space. We were pleased to leave to quieter and more desserted campsites.

Reply
Roxanne
1/2/2017 08:53:30 pm

Actually, Wayne, I think it's quite a big space but way too crowded for someone like me who loves restful, peaceful wilderness places.

Reply
Chris Stephen
3/2/2017 08:23:05 am

I still can't understand why Owners of camp sites and lodges for that matter, all around the country still tolerate, and do nothing about inconsiderate people with their loud music and other unacceptable behaviour.

Reply
Roxanne
3/2/2017 08:26:49 am

We're on the same wavelength, Chris!

Reply
Meg link
20/12/2017 03:42:26 pm

Great review! Heading up in June so was keen to get a recent review, thanks for sharing!

Reply
Roxanne
20/12/2017 09:09:36 pm

You're welcome, Meg. Always happy to help with my perspective, but that doesn't mean you might not go and find it blissfully quiet, lol. Nothing wrong with the campsites and ablutions, just far too busy for me when we were there.

Reply
Debbie Fordham
5/6/2023 07:06:57 pm

Thanks Roxanne. As far as I can tell there are only two other nearby alternatives, namely Hobas and Canyon Roadhouse. Which would you recommend?

Roxanne
6/6/2023 02:59:40 pm

Hi Debbie, I love Canyon Roadhouse - super experience and atmosphere all round. See more here https://www.roxannereid.co.za/blog/fun-at-the-old-canyon-roadhouse-namibia The campsite is small so no crowds of other people. I've not camped at Hobas myself, but when we went there it did look better than Ai-Ais. I hope that helps!

Reply

Your comment will be posted after it is approved.


Leave a Reply.

    Get email links to the latest posts

    Buy my books
    Travels in the Kalahari, amazon.com e-book
    E-book 2012​

    A Walk in the Park, amazon.com e-book
    2nd ed e-book 2015
    The Essential Guide to Self-Editing, amazon.com e-book
    E-book 2017

    About 

    I'm an independent travel writer and book editor with a passion for Africa - anything from African travel, people, safari and wildlife to adventure, heritage, road-tripping and slow travel.
    My travel buddy and husband Keith is the primary photographer for this blog.
    We're happiest in the middle of nowhere, meeting the locals, trying something new, or simply watching the grass grow.
    Use this website to discover new places to go, revisit places you've loved, or take a virtual tour of destinations you only dream about.

    Categories

    All
    Baviaanskloof
    Books
    Botswana
    Camping
    Cape Town
    Chobe
    Conservation
    Drc
    Eastern Cape
    Etosha Namibia
    Food
    Free State
    Garden Route
    Gauteng
    Issues
    Kalahari
    Karoo
    Kenya
    Kruger National Park
    Kwazulu Natal
    Lesotho
    Limpopo
    Linyanti
    Madagascar
    Malawi
    Mozambique
    Mpumalanga
    Namaqualand
    Namibia
    Nature Parks
    Northern Cape
    Okavango
    Overberg
    People
    Photography
    Richtersveld
    Tanzania
    West Coast
    Western Cape
    Wild Creatures
    Zambia
    Zimbabwe

    Archives

    March 2025
    February 2025
    January 2025
    November 2024
    October 2024
    September 2024
    August 2024
    July 2024
    June 2024
    May 2024
    April 2024
    March 2024
    February 2024
    January 2024
    November 2023
    October 2023
    September 2023
    August 2023
    July 2023
    June 2023
    May 2023
    April 2023
    March 2023
    February 2023
    January 2023
    November 2022
    October 2022
    September 2022
    August 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    May 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    November 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    June 2013
    May 2013
    April 2013
    March 2013
    February 2013
    January 2013
    December 2012
    November 2012
    October 2012
    September 2012
    August 2012
    July 2012
    June 2012
    May 2012
    April 2012
    March 2012
    February 2012
    January 2012
    December 2011
    November 2011
    October 2011
    September 2011
    August 2011
    July 2011
    June 2011
    May 2011
    April 2011
    March 2011
    February 2011
    January 2011
    December 2010
    November 2010
    October 2010
    September 2010
    August 2010
    July 2010
    June 2010
    May 2010
    April 2010
    March 2010
    January 2010
    November 2009


Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without written permission from roxannereid.co.za

Privacy Policy, GDPR and POPIA compliance
​* We promise that we take data safety seriously and use your private data only to offer a personalised experience
* If you subscribed to our newsletter, you will receive our newsletters. You can always unsubscribe by following the link in email or by emailing us
* If you gave us your name, it will only be used to personalise the newsletters
* We have never sold, we are not selling, and we will not sell any of your personal data provided to us
* The blog uses cookies to track activity. It is anonymous except for telling us your location and what you did on our blog
​
Photos from berniedup, Lucy_Hill