By Roxanne Reid
People who live in Swellendam know just how much there is to do in the area, but those who think of it as a two-hour drive from Cape Town on their way to the Garden Route need a little encouragement to stop and explore. Here are 20 things to do in Swellendam; spend three days here and you’ll barely touch the surface.
People who live in Swellendam know just how much there is to do in the area, but those who think of it as a two-hour drive from Cape Town on their way to the Garden Route need a little encouragement to stop and explore. Here are 20 things to do in Swellendam; spend three days here and you’ll barely touch the surface.
Swellendam lies between the Langeberg Mountains and the Breede River about 200km east of Cape Town. The third oldest town in South Africa, it was declared the Western Cape’s Town of the Year 2020 by local TV programme Kwêla in March 2020. This is due in part to the friendliness of the locals and the attractiveness of the town, but also because of the diversity of things to do in the area. Here’s my pick of some of them.
1. Visit a museum
1. Visit a museum
A visit to the museum precinct on Swellengrebel street is a must for anyone who visits the ‘republic of Swellendam’. The Drostdy itself dates back to 1747 though it was enlarged in 1813. Because it was both home and office of the Landdrost, it’s quite a formal place. Just down the road is Mayville, built in the mid 1850s but furnished in Victorian style.
Over the road is the Old Gaol and Ambagswerf (trades yard). Two of the cells off the courtyard have been opened to the public, and the Ambagswerf around a water-mill exhibits tools used in the past by craftsmen like wainwrights, blacksmiths, coppersmiths and tanners.
Read my post about why to visit these museums
2. See one of the prettiest churches in the Cape
Over the road is the Old Gaol and Ambagswerf (trades yard). Two of the cells off the courtyard have been opened to the public, and the Ambagswerf around a water-mill exhibits tools used in the past by craftsmen like wainwrights, blacksmiths, coppersmiths and tanners.
Read my post about why to visit these museums
2. See one of the prettiest churches in the Cape
Don’t miss seeing the unusually lavish 1911 Dutch Reformed church with its eclectic baroque gables and gothic windows. You’ll find it on Voortrek Street and if you visit on a Sunday morning for service, you’ll be able to see inside as well.
While you’re here, you’re very close to another gorgeous old building worth taking a short walk to see. Facing the church, look to your right and at the top of the road is Schoone Oordt. Built in Georgian style in 1853, it was Victorianised in the late 19th century. Today, it’s a beautiful guest house.
3. Bike around town
Swellendam is small and quiet enough to be a pleasurable place to ride a bike. Bring yours with you and visit some of the major attractions at your leisure, from museums to art and photo galleries, restaurants and the beautiful Dutch Reformed church.
4. Go for a hike in Marloth Nature Reserve
While you’re here, you’re very close to another gorgeous old building worth taking a short walk to see. Facing the church, look to your right and at the top of the road is Schoone Oordt. Built in Georgian style in 1853, it was Victorianised in the late 19th century. Today, it’s a beautiful guest house.
3. Bike around town
Swellendam is small and quiet enough to be a pleasurable place to ride a bike. Bring yours with you and visit some of the major attractions at your leisure, from museums to art and photo galleries, restaurants and the beautiful Dutch Reformed church.
4. Go for a hike in Marloth Nature Reserve
Plants and hiking are the major focus at Cape Nature’s Marloth Nature Reserve, with a colourful display of mountain fynbos in spring. Go for a short day walk to the waterfall or strike out to the higher peaks for a more strenuous hike of up to 16km and some steep zig-zag sections. If you’re seriously fit, take on the peaks of Tienuurkop (1195m) and Twaalfuurkop (1450m). You can also explore the reserve by mountain bike or on horseback (see point 12). For more info, visit the reserve office or contact Cape Nature.
5. Visit the Bontebok National Park
5. Visit the Bontebok National Park
Bontebok National Park is SANParks’ smallest park in South Africa. It doesn’t have the lions and elephants of Kruger, but you might see bontebok, red hartebeest, grey rhebok, steenbok and Cape mountain zebra on a game drive. There are short walks alongside the Breede River, a 9km mountain bike trail to Skilpad dam, and swimming and fishing in the river at Die Stroom (pictured above), where there’s also a picnic/braai site and lots of space for the kids to play. Find out about more things to do in Bontebok National Park.
6. Go shopping
6. Go shopping
If you love shopping, you’ll find plenty of shops in Swellendam where you can browse and buy, from boutiques and antiques to country flowers or a nursery. Visit Under the Oaks market on Saturday mornings from 9:00 till 13:00 to stock up on fresh fruit and veg, home-baked breads and cakes, plants and more. And if you’re a cheese lover, don’t miss the Keurbomen cheese shop about 3km from town on the R60.
For beautiful handmade soaps, creams and lotions pop in at the Rain shop at 274 Voortrek Street. Wild-harvested organic African oils like Kalahari melon, baobab and marula form the backbone of the products, giving them a natural, earthy scent. The shop is a feast for the eyes as well as the nose. Almost every product is moulded, woven, carved, poured, wrapped, filled and labelled by hand in an effort to provide employment that lifts people out of poverty. Fair Trade, Beauty without Cruelty and Reduce, Reuse and Recycle principles underpin everything, but you won’t care; you’ll just want to buy a piece of it to take home with you.
7. Visit a pottery
For beautiful handmade soaps, creams and lotions pop in at the Rain shop at 274 Voortrek Street. Wild-harvested organic African oils like Kalahari melon, baobab and marula form the backbone of the products, giving them a natural, earthy scent. The shop is a feast for the eyes as well as the nose. Almost every product is moulded, woven, carved, poured, wrapped, filled and labelled by hand in an effort to provide employment that lifts people out of poverty. Fair Trade, Beauty without Cruelty and Reduce, Reuse and Recycle principles underpin everything, but you won’t care; you’ll just want to buy a piece of it to take home with you.
7. Visit a pottery
Swellendam has a vibrant art community, with a number of galleries. Don’t miss the Bukkenburg Pottery Studio of David Schlapobersky and Felicity Potter where you might find David at the wheel working on anything from a small bowl to an enormous jar for storing unwooded wine.
Show a genuine interest and he’s happy to chat and show you around, giving you a new appreciation for pottery as art, especially when he explains that it takes 18 hours to get the kiln to the required 1320oC. ‘Then we have to wait another two days for the kiln to cool down so we can see whether the work’s been successful or not,’ he says. Nerves of steel.
It’s a 100% home industry David’s been working at for 47 years, first in Joburg and from 1996 in Swellendam. He does everything himself, even mixing his own clay and making glazes, some of them in the old-fashioned Japanese way, from ash. Felicity does all the beautiful brush work.
8. Learn something new
Sign on for a course with the Swellendam Winter School and learn a new skill. Courses are grouped under categories, making it easier to find the ones you’re interested in: creative arts and design, nature and heritage, food and wine, home crafts and design, mind and body, and yoga retreats. The Winter School runs from May to August and courses may be one, two or five days in length. Think bread making, soap making, mind development, bird identification, organic gardening, hand printing and more. It’s a great chance to stay over in charming Swellendam accommodation and learn more about the town and its residents at the same time as stretching your brain.
9. Taste honey and see live bees
Show a genuine interest and he’s happy to chat and show you around, giving you a new appreciation for pottery as art, especially when he explains that it takes 18 hours to get the kiln to the required 1320oC. ‘Then we have to wait another two days for the kiln to cool down so we can see whether the work’s been successful or not,’ he says. Nerves of steel.
It’s a 100% home industry David’s been working at for 47 years, first in Joburg and from 1996 in Swellendam. He does everything himself, even mixing his own clay and making glazes, some of them in the old-fashioned Japanese way, from ash. Felicity does all the beautiful brush work.
8. Learn something new
Sign on for a course with the Swellendam Winter School and learn a new skill. Courses are grouped under categories, making it easier to find the ones you’re interested in: creative arts and design, nature and heritage, food and wine, home crafts and design, mind and body, and yoga retreats. The Winter School runs from May to August and courses may be one, two or five days in length. Think bread making, soap making, mind development, bird identification, organic gardening, hand printing and more. It’s a great chance to stay over in charming Swellendam accommodation and learn more about the town and its residents at the same time as stretching your brain.
9. Taste honey and see live bees
Pop into the bee and honey shop in Swellengrebel Street to watch live bees through glass and learn how they make honey in the comb. Best of all, you can taste around ten honey variants – from blue gum and strandveld to orange blossom and fynbos – before you decide on a favourite to buy. Good quality and flavour at less than supermarket prices. There are some honey-based toiletries too.
10. Visit a berry farm
There are two Swellendam berry farms where you can pick your own blackberries, youngberries and blueberries in season (November to January). At The Berry Farm you can also walk in a berry maze or enchanted forest, swim or canoe on the river, or enjoy a tractor ride. At Wildebraam Berry Estate you can also sample homemade products like liqueurs, jams and syrups even if you visit out of season. I’d recommend phoning ahead since personal attention may be lacking if they have a big group booking.
11. Take the kids to see the fairies
10. Visit a berry farm
There are two Swellendam berry farms where you can pick your own blackberries, youngberries and blueberries in season (November to January). At The Berry Farm you can also walk in a berry maze or enchanted forest, swim or canoe on the river, or enjoy a tractor ride. At Wildebraam Berry Estate you can also sample homemade products like liqueurs, jams and syrups even if you visit out of season. I’d recommend phoning ahead since personal attention may be lacking if they have a big group booking.
11. Take the kids to see the fairies
If you have small children, take them to the Sulina Faerie Sanctuary in Buitekant Street to wander around mushroom rings and wishing wells in search of fairies. In reality the garden of potter and ceramicist Minky and Ian Sulin, it’s the sort of place I’d have loved when I was four or five, food for an overactive imagination.
12. Go horse riding in the mountains
If you love horses and nature, what better way to spend a few hours than by combining the two on an outride. Two Feathers Horse Trails offers rides through forests, across rivers and along the foothills of the Langeberg mountains in the Marloth Nature Reserve (see point 4). There are rides suitable for both beginners and experienced riders, but you must book at least a day ahead.
13. Sample some Swellendam restaurants
12. Go horse riding in the mountains
If you love horses and nature, what better way to spend a few hours than by combining the two on an outride. Two Feathers Horse Trails offers rides through forests, across rivers and along the foothills of the Langeberg mountains in the Marloth Nature Reserve (see point 4). There are rides suitable for both beginners and experienced riders, but you must book at least a day ahead.
13. Sample some Swellendam restaurants
There are more than 35 Swellendam restaurants and I’d be surprised if you couldn’t find the very thing you feel like eating at one of them. Pizza, burgers and toasties – check; fine dining in elegant surroundings – check; traditional South African fare like bobotie and malva pudding – check. There’s even a fine dining Italian restaurant.
Find out about some of my favourite Swellendam restaurants
14. Go on a river cruise
Go on a river cruise on the Buffelsjag River about 12km east of Swellendam. You don’t have to be staying at Umshanti to enjoy a cruise on the double-decker river boat but you do need to book ahead. Other activities on the property include hiking, canoeing, tandem microlight rides, cycling and swimming.
15. Do a township tour
Find out about some of my favourite Swellendam restaurants
14. Go on a river cruise
Go on a river cruise on the Buffelsjag River about 12km east of Swellendam. You don’t have to be staying at Umshanti to enjoy a cruise on the double-decker river boat but you do need to book ahead. Other activities on the property include hiking, canoeing, tandem microlight rides, cycling and swimming.
15. Do a township tour
Meisie Bokwana of Ubuhle Besintu teaches local children in Railton about Xhosa culture and keeps them off the streets. If you join a township tour they’ll welcome you with enthusiastic song and dance before Meisie takes you on a walkabout to visit a shebeen and a sangoma. You can arrange to sample some traditional Xhosa cooking such as Inyama yenkomo or umngqusho too. The tour takes about two and a half hours and is a really insightful and fun outing for all ages. Phone Meisie on tel 084-7751269.
Find out more about my experience of this township tour
16. Stay over for a few nights
As you can see, there’s more than enough to do in Swellendam to occupy a few days, so it makes sense to book a stay at Swellendam accommodation. Choose from 5-star fully catered luxury, B&Bs, self-catering units and even budget-friendly camping. Check out booking.com to see what’s available for your dates and in your price range.
Further afield
17. Visit Suurbraak
Find out more about my experience of this township tour
16. Stay over for a few nights
As you can see, there’s more than enough to do in Swellendam to occupy a few days, so it makes sense to book a stay at Swellendam accommodation. Choose from 5-star fully catered luxury, B&Bs, self-catering units and even budget-friendly camping. Check out booking.com to see what’s available for your dates and in your price range.
Further afield
17. Visit Suurbraak
Just past Buffeljagsrivier east of Swellendam you’ll find the turnoff to the little settlement of Suurbraak 28km away. Known as !Xairu to its Khoi-heritage residents, this is one of the oldest mission stations in the country. Old buildings around the village square have been restored, and there’s a ribbon of photogenic small houses along the road.
18. Visit DJ Contemporary Art Gallery
While you're in Suurbraak, don’t miss popping in at Donovan Julius Contemporary Art Gallery to meet the friendly artist and see his vibrant artworks – or buy one of them. Find a bold world of colour created by self-taught artist Donovan, whose mission through his art classes is to inspire local kids to ‘dare to dream’.
19. Drive the Tradouw Pass
18. Visit DJ Contemporary Art Gallery
While you're in Suurbraak, don’t miss popping in at Donovan Julius Contemporary Art Gallery to meet the friendly artist and see his vibrant artworks – or buy one of them. Find a bold world of colour created by self-taught artist Donovan, whose mission through his art classes is to inspire local kids to ‘dare to dream’.
19. Drive the Tradouw Pass
The Tradouw Pass starts 5km north of Suurbraak (see point 18) and connects the settlement with the Karoo town of Barrydale. Thomas Bain (who also built the Swartberg Pass near Prince Albert) completed the pass in 1873. Stop along the way to admire the old stonework, discover waterfalls and caves and get great views over the Tradouw River and the pass itself. For more on what to look out for on your drive, see my post Suurbraak at the foot of the Tradouw Pass.
20. Slurp a milkshake in Barrydale
20. Slurp a milkshake in Barrydale
Visit Diesel & Crème vintage diner in Barrydale for its vibe and décor. Admire the old tin signs advertising Castle beer, Pepsi, Lucky Strike or Castrol motor oil as you enjoy one of their signature milkshakes. My favourites are the Morning Glory (shot of espresso) and Vintage Villain (with bits of chocolate brownie), but there are lots of others to choose from.
Barrydale is a small town with a big personality so allow time to explore some of the shops or just wander the streets with your camera.
Find out more about things to do in Barrydale
You may also enjoy
Where to eat in Swellendam restaurants
Agulhas National Park: everything you need to know
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Barrydale is a small town with a big personality so allow time to explore some of the shops or just wander the streets with your camera.
Find out more about things to do in Barrydale
You may also enjoy
Where to eat in Swellendam restaurants
Agulhas National Park: everything you need to know
Like it? Pin this image!
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