By Roxanne Reid
Barrydale lies in a fertile valley between the Langeberg mountains and the Karoo. Once a sleepy little town, today it’s well worth staying over for a couple of days to ease into the slower pace of life here and then to experience some of the many things to do in Barrydale on Route 62 in the Karoo.
Barrydale lies in a fertile valley between the Langeberg mountains and the Karoo. Once a sleepy little town, today it’s well worth staying over for a couple of days to ease into the slower pace of life here and then to experience some of the many things to do in Barrydale on Route 62 in the Karoo.
1. Eat out
Barrydale has nearly 20 restaurants and coffee shops – a huge number for such a small village. Don’t wait until you’re driving out of Barrydale towards Ladismith to discover a fabulous restaurant called Clarke of the Karoo.
Barrydale has nearly 20 restaurants and coffee shops – a huge number for such a small village. Don’t wait until you’re driving out of Barrydale towards Ladismith to discover a fabulous restaurant called Clarke of the Karoo.
Clarke of the Karoo is one of the first places you should find in Barrydale, so you can return for a second meal
You'll find Clarke of the Karoo right on the edge of the village at the Mud Gallery and it's well worth a visit. It’s owned and run by Mike Clarke, who used to run Suikerbossie in Hout Bay, Cape Town, for many years. You can eat indoors or in the fresh air of the courtyard at the back. It offers good old Karoo dishes like bobotie and Karoo lamb curry, Mediterranean-inspired choices, as well as burgers and wraps.
The quality was superb. We had a roasted veggie roti with drizzle of yoghurt and basil pesto and a side salad, and a gourmet bacon-and-blue-cheese burger. Both were freshly prepared, delicious and well presented. A table of three foreigners near us ordered liver pâté with melba toast for starters and calamari as a main, and they were soon smacking their lips and raving about the food.
A completely different experience that’s as much about the vibe and décor is the relatively new Diesel & Crème vintage diner on the other side of town.
The quality was superb. We had a roasted veggie roti with drizzle of yoghurt and basil pesto and a side salad, and a gourmet bacon-and-blue-cheese burger. Both were freshly prepared, delicious and well presented. A table of three foreigners near us ordered liver pâté with melba toast for starters and calamari as a main, and they were soon smacking their lips and raving about the food.
A completely different experience that’s as much about the vibe and décor is the relatively new Diesel & Crème vintage diner on the other side of town.
Diesel & Creme, for extraordinary milkshakes and out-of-the-ordinary decor
There are wooden tables, blackboard menus and old tin signs advertising anything from Pepsi and Castle to Lucky Strike, Nugget and Castrol motor oil. The best things here are milkshakes like Morning Glory (shot of espresso), Vintage Villain (with bits of chocolate brownie) and Lady in Red (with bits of red velvet cake). They’re served in a Consol jar with a piece of plastic tubing as a straw. The diner also does breakfast, lunch, gorgeously decadent cakes and man-sized waffles I’ve heard people rave about.
We were already full after lunch one day when we decided to follow the signs pointing to the Blue Cow ‘on the Barrydale Waterfront’ simply because the sign was so intriguing.
We were already full after lunch one day when we decided to follow the signs pointing to the Blue Cow ‘on the Barrydale Waterfront’ simply because the sign was so intriguing.
At the Blue Cow you can feed the fish, have a meal or just chill with a plate of apple or lemon pie
It turned out to have a view over a dam, as we suspected it might. We sat on the shaded deck, while others were at picnic tables on the grass under some trees. We noticed fish in the dam and the waitress gave us a piece of bread to feed them. They clustered and muscled each other out the way to grab at it – great entertainment for the kids. The decaf cappuccino was disappointing, but the lemon meringue pie was excellent. They also have toasted sarmies, salads and other light meals.
Also recommended by lovers of Barrydale are the deli/tapas at Joubert-Tradauw Winery and the thin-based pizzas at Jam Tarts.
2. Stay at the Barrydale Karoo Hotel
Also recommended by lovers of Barrydale are the deli/tapas at Joubert-Tradauw Winery and the thin-based pizzas at Jam Tarts.
2. Stay at the Barrydale Karoo Hotel
Explore the appealingly quirky Barrydale Karoo Hotel and you'll find inviting spaces and lots of objects d'art
From the outside the Barrydale Karoo Hotel looks a little faded, but step inside and the quirkiness of bright walls from lime green to oxblood red, the idiosyncratic collection of paintings and objects d’art start to work their magic. A banana yellow art couch here, a bling gold cabinet there, accents of red and purple. Each room is individually decorated, elegant or funky, a bit off the wall. For more about the hotel and why it’s worth a visit, see my blog Barrydale Karoo Hotel: look beyond the surface.
3. Get arty and crafty
If you enjoy browsing and buying arts and crafts, you’ll love mooching around Barrydale. Visit Barrydale Hand Weavers, a skills and job creation project, to marvel at the hand-woven rugs, tableware and fabrics and maybe even watch the looms in action.
Drop in at the Magpie Art Collective to see functional art like light shades and lamp shades, often using recycled materials. If you buy one, you’ll be in good company; two of their chandeliers hang in the White House in the USA.
3. Get arty and crafty
If you enjoy browsing and buying arts and crafts, you’ll love mooching around Barrydale. Visit Barrydale Hand Weavers, a skills and job creation project, to marvel at the hand-woven rugs, tableware and fabrics and maybe even watch the looms in action.
Drop in at the Magpie Art Collective to see functional art like light shades and lamp shades, often using recycled materials. If you buy one, you’ll be in good company; two of their chandeliers hang in the White House in the USA.
Turning 'junk' into art - this Magpie Collective bird-light is in the Barrydale Karoo Hotel
At Karoo be Volk you’ll find an eclectic mix of local arts, crafts and collectibles, and it’s worth stopping just to fully appreciate their sign. Hardy’s Memories has a selection of art and crafts from all over Africa.
The Karoo be Volk sign is cheeky; stop and raid the shop for something to take home
4. Wander the streets with your camera
Drive, cycle or walk up and down the streets to look at the church, old houses and new houses, pretty gardens and neglected gardens. Take note of the drystone walls around some properties, a fence decorated with a rattle of enamel plates and mugs, a wall of different-coloured glass bottles that catch the sunlight. At first light and late in the afternoon, when the shadows are long and the light soft, there are many Barrydale scenes begging to be photographed.
Drive, cycle or walk up and down the streets to look at the church, old houses and new houses, pretty gardens and neglected gardens. Take note of the drystone walls around some properties, a fence decorated with a rattle of enamel plates and mugs, a wall of different-coloured glass bottles that catch the sunlight. At first light and late in the afternoon, when the shadows are long and the light soft, there are many Barrydale scenes begging to be photographed.
Barrydale has lots of buildings and fences worth photographing
5. Take a day drive on Tradouw Pass to Suurbraak
Tradouw Pass, completed in 1873, was built by Thomas Bain (who also built the Swartberg Pass near Prince Albert) and you can still see lots of the old stonework. Stop along the way to discover waterfalls and caves and get great views over the Tradouw River and the pass itself. Five kilometres beyond the pass is the tiny village of Suurbraak, which is one of the oldest mission stations in the country. Old buildings around the village square have been restored, and you’ll see a long ribbon of small houses along the sides of the road, which runs parallel to the river.
Tradouw Pass, completed in 1873, was built by Thomas Bain (who also built the Swartberg Pass near Prince Albert) and you can still see lots of the old stonework. Stop along the way to discover waterfalls and caves and get great views over the Tradouw River and the pass itself. Five kilometres beyond the pass is the tiny village of Suurbraak, which is one of the oldest mission stations in the country. Old buildings around the village square have been restored, and you’ll see a long ribbon of small houses along the sides of the road, which runs parallel to the river.
A drive along the scenic Tradouw Pass will take you to the little village of Suurbraak
There’s lots more to do in Barrydale and I’ve only touched the surface, highlighting things that we did on our most recent visit. If you have more time, walk the Labyrinth in search of inner peace, go hiking in the mountains or horse riding, visit the Warmwaterberg Spa, and do some wine tasting at the Barrydale Cellar or Joubert-Tradauw Winery.
You might even want to check out the ads in the estate agent’s window and dream of dropping out of the fast lane to live here yourself.
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You might even want to check out the ads in the estate agent’s window and dream of dropping out of the fast lane to live here yourself.
Like it? Pin this image!
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