18 things to do in Tulbagh in the Cape Winelands

By Roxanne Reid
Jagged mountains and gnarled old oaks, the curve of a Cape Dutch gable, long rows of vineyards or fruit trees, a farm dam – these are the memories you’ll bring home from Tulbagh. In the Cape Winelands just a 90-minute drive from Cape Town, it’s a place to discover history and magnificent scenery, to explore things to do in Tulbagh.

​Tulbagh lies in a bowl surrounded by the Witzenberg mountains to the east, Winterhoek mountains to the north – often snow-capped in winter – and the Obiqua mountains to the west. The town dates back to the early 1700s and is the fourth oldest in South Africa after Cape Town, Stellenbosch and Swellendam. Small wonder, then, that there are so many old buildings to admire. In fact, Church Street today has more Cape Dutch, Edwardian and Victorian provincial heritage sites than any other street in the country.

But it would be a mistake to think Tulbagh is all about the past – there’s a host of things to do in the area for wine and beer fans, nature lovers, even adrenalin junkies. Or you can just kick back and enjoy the peace and quiet of the countryside.

1. Explore Church Street 

Walk up and down Church Street to look at beautiful buildings that were restored after a massive earthquake in 1969 that measured 6.3 on the Richter scale and killed 12 people, most of them children. Each building has a plaque in front telling what it used to be, how badly it was damaged and how it was restored. Every house in this street has been proclaimed a national monument – the biggest ever restoration project in South Africa. Thanks to the earthquake, it’s now both a tourist attraction and a fine example of cultural heritage.

2. Visit a museum 

Tulbagh's Earthquake Museum and tourism info office

​Tulbagh’s Church Street is rich in museums – four of them. At number 4 you’ll find the Earthquake Museum, where for a small fee you can buy a ticket that gets you entry to all four museums. This one documents the events of 1969 and paints a picture of the restoration of Church Street. A separate room tells the stories of three settlements that disappeared completely after the earthquake, the houses either demolished or their occupants moved.

​Quick tip: Tulbagh Tourism’s info centre is in the same building so it makes a good place to start. Pick up a map of the town and surrounding area and attractions. 

The Oude Kerk became a museum in 1925

The Oude Kerk should be your second stop on the museum trail. It’s one of the last surviving cruciform churches in South Africa and was built in 1743 by the Dutch East India Company. The gable and ring-wall were added in 1795. Once another church was built, it fell into disuse but reopened as a museum in 1925.

Victorian Period House and Christo Coetzee Art Gallery

At 14 Church Street is a Victorian Period House that depicts the lifestyle of the rural middle-class family at this time, with its dark drapes and overstuffed chairs. The back rooms also house the Christo Coetzee Art Gallery, showing off this South African artist’s varied styles over the years.

The kitchen at the Pioneer House Museum

22 Church Street, built in 1803, was originally a postmaster’s house and is now the Pioneer House Museum. There’s a red-walled period kitchen with open hearth, a simple room with rietdak ceiling, a more formal voorkamer with wooden ceiling, and an eclectic collection of old kitchen implements, furniture and china.

3. Visit Tulbagh wine farms for tasting ​

Wine tasting at Saronsberg Cellar

With some 15 wine estates in this part of the Cape Winelands, you’re spoilt for choice. Most offer tastings of five to six wines for a fee of around R50 to R100, but this is sometimes swept away if you buy a few bottles afterwards.

Saronsberg has some impressive sculptures in the gardens. Enjoy your tasting outside overlooking a dam or inside in the double-volume tasting room. Take your wine and wander the art gallery upstairs or sit in a ghost chair at the long tables downstairs. We had our most informed tasting of nine wines here. You’ll find some French cultivars like viognier, rousanne, petit verdot and mourvedre, as well as the classic sauvignon blanc and shiraz. Using Tulbagh’s famous earthquake as inspiration they’ve named a white blend Earth in Motion and a red blend Seismic.

At Lemberg, you’ll be greeted by rows of white roses if you visit in October/November. The modern tasting room offers a chance to savour wines named after the estate’s dogs, like Lady, Spencer and Louis. Lemberg also produces wine from the Hungarian harslevelu cultivar, so unusual and sought-after that there was none left for tasting when we visited.

Krone (Twee Jonge Gezellen) is the place to go if you love your Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) wines. You get to taste a few of them, from sweeter Night Nectar types to rosé and brut, including the classic Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut made from chardonnay and pinot noir. If you choose to taste some of the older vintages, you’ll find them more honeyed but shy on the bubbles, just the way I like them.

Montpellier wine estate is a must if only to appreciate its gorgeous little chapel in the vineyards (see the intro pic). The tasting room used to be in the historical old Cape Dutch gabled house, or you could sit under a tree in the garden. Now, you’re greeted by the sound of music and invited to follow it along peach-pip paths through the forest to a barn with French doors on three sides. This is the new tasting centre, with some outdoor and indoor tables. On our mid-week visit, I was disappointed to find the informative staff of our previous visit replaced by someone who just poured and told us the cultivar before walking away. You can order a cheese platter or pizza to soak up some of the wine.

Other Tulbagh wine farms include Theuniskraal, Manley, Tulbagh Winery, Oudekloof, Oude Compagnies Post, Waverley Hills and Digger’s Home.

4. Wine by Bike 

Wine by Bike (photo: Vindoux Guest Farm & Spa)

Vindoux Guest Farm lies very close to the wine estates of Saronsberg and Krone, and not too far away from Montpellier and Oakhurst Olives. Hire a bike at Vindoux for a slower Wine by Bike way to explore the area’s estates and farm tracks. Choose half day or full day, and your fee includes helmets and water. Special wine carriers on the bikes help you transport your purchases. You can even venture further afield and explore Church Street (see point 1 above) by bike. You don’t have to be staying at Vindoux but you do need to book ahead.

5. Enjoy a craft beer tasting

If craft beer is more your speed than wine, head out to the Obiqua Cafe at Duikersdrift for a tasting of six beers from Buchanan’s Brewery. The Winter Ale is what brewery owner Rod Buchanan calls a ‘Christmas beer’, with spicy tones of cinnamon, cloves and ginger. My Sweetie is a malty, medium-bodied Belgian-style beer with alcohol content of just 3% (the others are all 5%). Bit of an odd name for a beer? Well, Rod originally called it Miss Molly after his Labrador but faced copyright pushback so he changed it to the other name he used to call the dog.

​Slow Boat is a German style Rauchbier with a smoked bacon flavour, the only one we didn’t like but I assume it’s an acquired taste. Bruno (named after another Labrador) is a medium-bodied Belgian-style pale ale, while the fruity, hoppy Amandla Ale is South African through and through, no imported ingredients. Then there’s Sons of Stout, a sweetish and creamy milk stout with chocolate and coffee tones. We also sneaked a taste of Rod’s latest experiment called Klippies, which reflects the flavours of brandy and coke. Just roll up to taste, but book ahead if you want a beer and chocolate pairing or a beer and savouries pairing. You can stay afterwards for lunch or dinner at Obiqua Cafe (see point 12).

6. Do an olive oil tasting 

Oakhurst Olives lies at the end of a cul de sac just outside Tulbagh. Here the granite and sandstone soils and summer sunshine make for happy olive trees. The crop is hand-harvested from March to June and you can enjoy a tutored tasting in the gorgeous double-volume tasting room.

You’ll taste plump kalamata olives with no preservatives, colourants or other additives, and delicious olive marmelade – with or without chilli. There are also two cold-pressed extra virgin olive oils included in your tasting – delicate and intense. Oakhurst uses up to ten different varieties like leccino, frantoio and carotina in the oil blend for complexity. The delicate oil is very buttery but with a peppery bite in the back of the throat. The intense oil is stronger flavoured and also peppery on aftertaste.

7. Explore the art route 

Art in the Christo Coetzee Art Gallery

If you’re a lover of fine art, you’ll be happy to know there’s a number of art galleries and artists in and around Tulbagh. Treat yourself to some visual stimulation by visiting the Christo Coetzee Art Gallery inside the Victorian Period House at 14 Church Street (see point 2), or take in the sculpture and paintings at Saronsberg wine estate (see point 3). You can also make an appointment to visit the area’s artists in their studios, where they sculpt, paint or do printmaking. For more information, drop in at the helpful information centre at 4 Church Street.

8. Discover local products at a one-stop shop

Made in Tulbagh opened in July 2019 to showcase the talents and abundance of the Tulbagh Valley. This one-stop shop in Van der Stel Street is the place to visit for some Tulbagh magic to take home with you. You’ll find an intriguing collection of soaps, lotions and other skin products, jewellery, basketware, wooden toys, pottery, leatherwork, crocheted items, photos, cushions and colourful kids’ dresses. There are products to delight food lovers too, from wines, olive products and chocolates to honey and beeswax wraps. Don’t forget to sample a slice of MIT owner Gail Schulschenk’s freshly baked pecan pie.

9. Go hiking and mountain biking

Hiking at Murludi (photo: Tulbagh Tourism)

Pull on your hiking boots and explore the mountains around Tulbagh to enjoy scenic views and mountain fynbos. Two popular walks are the Waterfall Trail (15-20 min) to a waterfall and pool, and the Murludi Trails, with a 4km River Route and a 10km Elsbos Route. Murludi is also worth visiting in high summer to see the hydrangea garden. There’s a small fee for permits for these trails; get your permit and map at Tulbagh Tourism at 4 Church Street. If you’d prefer an overnight hike that takes you to a cave, gives views over Voelvlei dam and sees you sleeping in a converted double-decker bus, then consider the Silwerfontein Hiking Trail.

Mountain bikers will be excited to learn that the Cape Epic in October 2021 included the Tulbagh area so a lot of work went into the routes in the vicinity. All you need to do is pay R60 per person per day via Snapscan at Tulbagh Tourism’s office at 4 Church Street, then use the Trailforks app to get more specific info about the routes.

10. Go horse-riding 

Horse riding (photo: Tulbagh Tourism)

Saddle up and go horse-riding in the foothills of the Winterhoek and Witzenberg mountains, through orchards and vineyards on a working farm. Both novices and experienced riders are welcome, just book ahead with Tulbagh Horse Trails.

11. Indulge in a relaxing spa treatment 

Photo: Vindoux Guest Farm & Spa

Sore muscles after your bike ride or hike? Stressed from working too hard? Book a spa treatment at Vindoux Guest Farm & Spa, from a 30 min de-stress back massage to a one-hour full body deep tissue massage, from facials to hand and foot treatments. Bookings essential, closed Tuesdays.

12. Eat out at some Tulbagh restaurants

Readers Restaurant in Church Street

If you’re like me, you’ll want to experience some Tulbagh restaurants while you’re in the area.

The old building that houses Readers Restaurant in Church Street dates back to the late 1700s and used to be the sick comforter’s house (he read the bible to sick people – hence the name). Readers has been going for around a quarter century but the menu has been revamped since it appeared on Bertus Basson’s In die Sop programme on KykNet. If you’re a cat lover, you’ll still recognise owner and chef Carol Collins’ obsession with them in the artworks in the bathroom nook. We had tender asparagus with hollandaise as a starter then fall-off-the-bone slow-roasted springbok shank with a rich sauce and garlic mash as a lip-smacking main.

​Although you may be tempted by malva pudding, don’t miss the trio of homemade ice cream which is an experience rather than just a dessert. Carol was there the night we visited and she refused to tell us beforehand what the flavours of the day were; she wanted us to taste and try to work them out. We found unusual and adventurous touches like balsamic vinegar (which tasted like honey), toasted sesame, even pickled ginger with a hint of wasabi. They were so yummy we polished them off in no time.

Bacon and egg at Kole en Deeg

​Perhaps the best surprise was our breakfast at Kole en Deeg, which opened in Van der Stel Street in August 2020. From the name (which means Coals and Dough) we thought we’d be eating roosterkoek with cheese or jam. Far from it. First, our flat whites were amazingly good. And I loved my choice of soft poached eggs, feta and avocado on seed loaf, with basil pesto and fresh rocket. It was so scrumptious it made me rethink my opinion that breakfast is the most boring meal of the day.

​Hubby loved his more traditional toasted roosterkoek with streaky bacon, creamy scrambled eggs and gruyere topped with crispy caramelised onions, and roasted baby tomatoes on the side. Presentation and flavours were top-notch. If we lived closer to Tulbagh, we’d be at Kole en Deeg at least once a week. When we complimented owner Etienne Abrahams, it was no surprise to hear him talking about what a believer he is in quality, consistency and service. 

The Olive Terrace Bistro at the Tulbagh Boutique Heritage Hotel

The Olive Terrace Bistro at the Tulbagh Boutique Heritage Hotel on Van der Stel Street is a very popular venue so you might need to book ahead on the weekend. The prize seats are definitely on the pretty terrace, but you can sit inside if the weather doesn’t co-operate. A total revamp a few years back has made the inside much lighter, brighter and more attractive. Think curries, oxtail, steaks, burgers, pasta and pizza. There are a few vegetarian and vegan options too.

Paddagang offers South African dishes like bobotie, waterblommetjie bredie and milk tart, as well as steaks and burgers. Sadly the wine and beer tasting centres that used to be drawcards here have both closed as a result of the pandemic. Paddagang used to be popular with international tourists looking for local flavour, but when we visited just before the UK took South Africa off its red list for post-pandemic travel, it was deserted and looked a bit sad. (We didn’t eat there this time so I can’t comment on the food.)

Obiqua Café at Duikersdrift

​If fireplaces in winter or outdoor seating with mountain views in summer appeal to you, you’ll enjoy a visit to Obiqua Café at Duikersdrift. We’d driven out mainly for a craft beer tasting (see point 5) but liked the relaxed vibe and stayed for wood-fired pizzas. When my gigantic vegan pizza with artichokes, olives and peppadews arrived I thought I’d barely be able to manage half of it. But it was so thin-based and yummy that I managed all but two pieces, which hubby happily scoffed in addition to his meat-focused pizza. Obiqua also does tacos, burgers, steaks, ribs, salads and pasta. Two log fireplaces were roaring their welcome on a chilly evening and the place was humming, even on a mid-week night. (Duikersdrift also offers farm accommodation.)

Farm Deli and Foolish Things at Kloofzicht Country Estate

Another place worth a stop is the Farm Deli and Foolish Things at Kloofzicht Country Estate. At ground level are the deli and gift shop stuffed with interesting bric-a-brac. Go downstairs into the old wine cellar to discover the restaurant and coffee shop with their mismatched chairs and tables that all merge to form an artful whole. Sit in the cool inside, or outside under a tree where you can listen to the birds as you look out over the farm dam and small jetty. If country tranquillity is what you crave, this is the place for you. The blackboard menu of the day might include gourmet open sandwiches, salads, gourmet burgers, and a dessert and/or cake of the day. (The estate also offers farm accommodation.)

13. Ride on a tractor 

Tractor ride up Oudekloof Pass (photo: Tulbagh Tourism)

Go on a scenic tractor ride up the historic Oudekloof Pass to enjoy the mountains and views out over Tulbagh. The trip at Oudekloof Wine Estate takes about two hours and includes a picnic at the top. You’ll learn a bit about the history of the area too, and imagine what it must have been like for the Voortrekkers and their ox wagons when they came through here. Book ahead.

14. Stay over at Tulbagh accommodation

Early morning mist at Morgansvlei Country Estate

​It would be a huge mistake to rush your visit to Tulbagh; as you can see, there’s plenty to do and see in the area. Rather stay over for a couple of nights and savour the experience of slow travel. Whether you’re looking for a boutique hotel, B&B, self-catering cottage, farm-stay experience or even camping, Tulbagh Tourism’s multiple listings have you covered in all price ranges from budget to luxury. Stay in a restored building in historic Church Street, in town or in the country, and make the most of a few days away from the hurly-burly of the city.

Our room at Morgansvlei Country Estate

​On our most recent visit, we stayed at Morgansvlei Country Estate. Primarily a wedding venue, especially over the weekends, it also makes for a pleasant country stay during the week. Our room had a small kitchenette and an open fireplace, as well as a semi-private stoep with a Weber braai. We didn’t braai, but did enjoy sitting there in the late afternoon to sip wine and look out over the dam to the far mountains. 

The rooms at Morgansvlei Country Estate all look out over the farm dam

The accommodation is in old Cape Dutch buildings that surround the dam on two sides. When we were there in September 2021, the estate had just been taken over by new owners and we could already see some of the improvements they’d been making to the buildings and the grounds.

Further afield

15. Zipline the cobwebs away 

Photo: Tulbagh Tourism

Just 20 minutes away from Tulbagh along the R46 is Ceres, where you’ll find Ceres Zip Slide Adventures. Kit up with a special harness, helmet and gloves and get an adrenalin rush on eight slides from 100 to 290m long among the rock formations of the Schurweberg. Total distance is 1.4km. Great fun for the whole family (ages 3 and older) but small children will need to do tandem slides. Book ahead.

16. See an Anglo Boer War blockhouse

On the R43 near Wolseley you can see a well-preserved Anglo Boer War blockhouse guarding the railway line and bridge over a river. Back in 1899-1902, the British Army depended for supplies and troops on the railway line from Cape Town to the Boer Republics in the north, so the Boers began to attack railway lines and bridges. The Brits countered by building blockhouses like this. There were water tanks on the ground floor, living quarters housing up to 20 men on the first floor, and a lookout post on the top floor. Not a single bridge protected by a blockhouse was blown up.

17. Visit Bosjes chapel and gardens 

Take a detour past Bosjes Wine Estate in the Breede Valley, between Wolseley and Ceres, to see a wedding chapel inspired by a bird in flight. As unusual as it is beautiful, it opened in March 2017. Take a walk around the indigenous gardens, through the sculptural water fountain and stop for tea/coffee and cake in the tea garden nearby.

18. Drive Bain’s Kloof Pass 

If you’re travelling from Cape Town/Paarl/ Wellington to or from Tulbagh, don’t miss driving over the historic Bain’s Kloof Pass. Built by the masterful Andrew Geddes Bain from 1849-1853, this 18km engineering masterpiece on the R301 is now a national monument. As the official ‘gateway to the north’, Bain’s Kloof Pass would have seen many ox wagons and horse-drawn carts back in the 19th century. Today, it’s a snaking tarred pass through indigenous vegetation to a height of 594m, with the river running like a ribbon at the bottom of the deep kloof.

Best time to visit Tulbagh
The climate is warm and temperate with summer highs topping out in the mid 30s. Winter lows can reach 5 or 6 degrees Celsius at night but the days are warmish at 14-17 degrees even in mid-winter. Annual rainfall is around 580mm and more of it falls in winter than summer. The wettest months are June and July, with November to March the driest months. Snow may fall on the high mountain peaks in winter.

Tulbagh is a year-round destination; it just depends what you’re looking for. If you love sunny skies and hot days, summer would be the time to visit. But if you want to enjoy hot chocolate or red wine around a log fire, with the chance to play in the snow nearby, then winter will appeal to your romantic side. April has an autumn feel with the vineyards turning red and gold, while September is a spring time of new growth and blossoming fruit trees.

Where to find it
Tulbagh lies about 125km (90min) north-east of Cape Town via the N7 and R46.

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