Craggy mountains, knobbly old oak trees, curving Cape Dutch gables, endless rows of vineyards and orchards, and maybe a peaceful little farm dam. These are the things you’ll be daydreaming about after a trip to Tulbagh. Just an easy 90-minute drive from Cape Town, this charming little town in the Cape Winelands is all about rich history and stunning views, with loads to explore.
Tulbagh is tucked away in a valley, surrounded by the Obiqua range to the west, the Winterhoek peaks (snow-dusted in winter) to the north, and the Witzenberg mountains to the east. The town has been around since the early 1700s and is the fourth oldest in South Africa; only Cape Town, Stellenbosch, and Swellendam are older. If you’re into old buildings and charming streets, you’ll love Church Street, which is packed with more heritage buildings – from Cape Dutch to Edwardian and Victorian – than other street in the country.
But don’t go thinking Tulbagh’s stuck in the past. Whether you want to sip wine and craft beer, hike through nature, or chase an adrenaline rush, there’s lots to do here. Or you can simply chill out and soak up the country vibe. Life moves slowly here, with wide-screen views, quiet moments, and a kind of beauty that seeps into your soul.
Quick tip: Pop into Tulbagh Tourism’s info centre at 38 Van der Stel Street to kick off your time in the area. Grab a map, get the lowdown on local attractions from the well-informed staff, and plan the rest of your adventure from there.
1. Visit the museums
2. Explore Church Street
At the end of the street furthest away from the Oude Kerk (see point 1) stands a kitchen garden inspired by Babylonstoren in the Franschhoek Valley. It’s laid out as a formal garden that grows fruit, veg and herbs to supply local restaurants and residents, while some products are donated to soup kitchens. Members of the local community are employed to tend the garden. It’s open to visitors, so wander around to admire the layout and produce, or ask about placing an order to be collected before you leave Tulbagh.
Hot tip: Find the path behind Ballotina at 43 Church Street and walk to the lookout hut on Galgeheuwel (Gallow’s Hill) for a view out over Church Street and Tulbagh and a chance to see some flowers in spring. You can get a better idea of the layout of the kitchen garden from up here too.
3. Visit Tulbagh wine farms for tasting
With around a dozen wine estates in this part of the Cape Winelands, you’re spoilt for choice. The price for tastings varies fairly widely from R50 to about R150, but this is sometimes swept away if you buy a few bottles afterwards
At Lemberg, you’ll be greeted by rows of white roses if you visit in October/November. The modern tasting room offers a chance to savour wines named after the estate’s bulldogs, like Lady, Spencer and Louis. Lemberg also produces wine from the Hungarian hárslevelü cultivar, so unusual and sought-after that there was none left for tasting when we visited.
Krone (Twee Jonge Gezellen) – home to the first underground cellar in Africa – is the place to go if you love your Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) wines. You get to taste a few of them, from sweeter Night Nectar types to rosé and brut, including the classic Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut made from chardonnay and pinot noir. If you choose to taste some of the older vintages, you’ll find them more honeyed but shy on the bubbles, just the way I like them. Book ahead.
Theuniskraal is a family-owned winery that will celebrate its centenary in 2028. The tasting room staff is knowledgeable and friendly, giving you insight into the farm’s history as well as the wines it produces. They make both whites and reds, which you can try paired with a cheese or charcuterie platter if you like. Don’t miss tasting these two out-of-the-ordinary wines: Cape Riesling – a cultivar not every estate still uses but is one of the first wines I remember drinking in my twenties; and Bouquet Blanc, made from gewürztraminer, with its floral flavours and spicy aroma, and a smidge of muscat. All the wines are delightfully affordable.
Montpellier wine estate is a must if only to appreciate its gorgeous little chapel in the vineyards (see the intro pic). For wine tasting, sit under a tree in the garden or follow the signs along peach-pip paths through the poplar forest to the Glass House with French doors on three sides. Choose a bubbly tasting or try a trio of their still wines. You can order a cheese platter or pizza to soak up some of the wine. In winter, tastings are in the cosy Bouval restaurant building with its giant fireplace.
Other wine farms in the Tulbagh area include Blue Crane Vineyards, De Kleine Wijn, Oude Compagnies Post (home of Swanepoel Wines), Oudekloof, and Tulbagh Winery.
Pro tip: Once you decide which wineries you want to visit, always check on their website what their tasting days and hours are, or phone first, so that you don’t make the trip only to find they’re closed. Many are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, for instance.
4. Join a Tulbagh Wine Walk
5. Wine by Bike
Vindoux Guest Farm lies very close to the wine estates of Saronsberg and Krone, and not too far away from Montpellier and Oakhurst Olives. Hire a bike at Vindoux for a Wine by Bike way to explore the area’s estates and farm tracks. Choose half day or full day, and your fee includes helmets and water. Special wine carriers on the bikes help you transport your purchases. You can even venture further afield and explore Church Street (see point 2 above) by bike. You don’t have to be staying at Vindoux but you do need to book ahead.
Bonus tip: We haven’t tried it yet, but there’s also gin tasting at Vindoux.
6. Enjoy a craft beer tasting
Slow Boat is a German style Rauchbier with a smoked bacon flavour, the only one we didn’t like but I assume it’s an acquired taste. Bruno (named after another Labrador) is a medium-bodied Belgian-style pale ale, while the fruity, hoppy Amandla Ale is South African through and through, no imported ingredients. Then there’s Sons of Stout, a sweetish and creamy milk stout with chocolate and coffee tones. Or try Tulbagh Lager (my favourite) and Waveren Pilsener. The seasonal Winter Ale is what Rod calls a ‘Christmas beer’, with spicy tones of cinnamon, cloves and ginger.
You can try these brews at the tasting room behind The Taste of Manley from Wednesday to Sunday, but do phone first to check if the estate is open and not hosting a function.
7. Taste olives and olive oil
You’ll taste plump kalamata olives with no preservatives, colourants or other additives, and delicious olive marmelade – with or without chilli. Two cold-pressed extra virgin olive oils are included in your tasting – delicate and intense. For complexity, Oakhurst uses up to ten different varieties like leccino, frantoio and carotina in the oil blends. The delicate oil is very buttery but with a peppery bite in the back of the throat. The intense oil is stronger flavoured and also peppery on aftertaste.
8. Explore the art route
Saronsberg wine estate (see point 3) has a great collection of sculptures and paintings, and Rijk’s Country House also has a contemporary art gallery. You can make an appointment to visit the area’s artists in their studios, where they sculpt, paint, do ceramics or printmaking. For more information, pop in at the helpful information centre at 38 Van Der Stel Street.
If you’re up for a longer drive, the Creative Hub about 20km away near Wolseley is a place to see wonderful metal and scrapture sculptures, mosaics and other art forms. There’s a café and deli too.
9. Go horse-riding
10. Go hiking and mountain biking
If you’d prefer an overnight hike that takes you to a cave, gives views over Voelvlei dam and sees you sleeping in a converted double-decker bus, then consider the Silwerfontein Hiking Trail. And for a multi-day hike that exposes you to some cultural spots and wine farms in Tulbagh, join The Tulbagh Wine Walk (see point 4).
If you’re in Tulbagh on a Saturday, get up early and do the 5km parkrun at Duikersdrift at 8:00. Good for your health and some socal interaction too.
Mountain bikers will be excited to know that the Cape Epic in 2021 and 2024 included the Tulbagh area so a lot of work went into the routes in the vicinity. See the Tulbagh Mountain Bike Club’s website for more info about some of these, ranging from 18km to 35km and taking in a number of wine farms in the area. You might even spot some zebra and springbok in the Welbedacht Nature Reserve. The MTB club maintains some 70km of track for you to enjoy alongside streams, vineyards, and orchards. If you’ve brought your bike, all you need to do is pay for a day permit via Snapscan here, then use the Trailforks app on your phone to get more specific info about the routes you want to ride.
11. Eat at Tulbagh restaurants
If you’re like me, you’ll definitely want to experience some Tulbagh restaurants while you’re in the area. I’ve included a link to each of their websites below so you can check in advance what days they’re open and what their hours are. Note that many restaurants in Tulbagh are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Readers Restaurant
We had tender asparagus with hollandaise as a starter then fall-off-the-bone slow-roasted springbok shank with a rich sauce and garlic mash as a lip-smacking main. Other menu choices include pork chops, steak and a burger. Although you may be tempted by malva pudding, don’t miss the trio of homemade ice cream which is an experience rather than just a dessert. The night we visited, we had unusual and adventurous touches like balsamic vinegar (which tasted like honey), toasted sesame, and pickled ginger with a hint of wasabi – all yummy.
Kole en Deeg
Hubby loved his toasted roosterkoek with streaky bacon, creamy scrambled eggs and sautéed baby tomatoes topped with crispy caramelised onions. Presentation and flavours were top-notch. If we lived closer to Tulbagh, we’d be at Kole en Deeg once a week. When we complimented Etienne, it was no surprise to hear him talking about what a believer he is in quality, consistency and service.
PS They also do lunch, so think burgers, quiche, wraps and toasties. Open daily.
Olive Terrace Bistro
Daphne’s Bistro
My husband had a smash burger that was undercooked for the medium rare he’d requested, and his chips were a bit oily. He hates making waves so wouldn’t send the burger back for a little more cooking, which I’m sure they’d have been happy to do, but left the raw parts uneaten. I lucked out on my choice, loving my tagliatelle Amatriciana, the tomato-based sauce delicious without being too sharp, the garlic and pork cheek adding some depth. I’d definitely go back for the atmosphere and the pasta.
Chef & Co
Looking back, we made some mistakes. We booked for an early supper on a Monday night and found that he wasn’t there, although he did make an appearance a bit later. There was also some confusion with our first choice of a fish dish – the price hadn’t been loaded onto the computer system yet. Since prices are on the high side, we didn’t want to go into something blindly.
So we chose again, this time fillet with red wine and thyme jus. We had to pay for vegetables or chips separately. The fillet was tender and cooked perfectly to order but oversalted and the wine jus gelatinous. We were disappointed. In hindsight, we should have ordered the burgers which were on a two-for-one special that night; another couple who were also eating an early supper seemed to really enjoy them. Open daily.
Farm Deli and Foolish Things
12. Enjoy a relaxing spa treatment
Stressed from working too hard? Sore muscles after your bike ride or hike? Book a spa treatment at Vindoux Guest Farm & Spa (closed Tuesdays, bookings essential) or Trident Health Centre at the Tulbagh Hotel. Try a de-stress back massage or a full body deep-tissue massage and leave floating on air, or treat yourself to a facial treatment or mani-pedi.
13. Ride a tractor up the Oudekloof Pass
14. Stay over at Tulbagh accommodation
Stay in a restored historic building in Church Street, in town or on a wine estate in the countryside, and make the most of a few days away from the hurly-burly of the city. Although Tulbagh Tourism’s website doesn’t list any campsites, there are a few for people looking for a budget stay; just search on Google.
Read more about other places we’ve stayed in Tulbagh, like another farmstay and a treehouse.
Further afield
15. Zipline the cobwebs away
16. See an Anglo Boer War blockhouse
17. Visit Bosjes chapel and gardens
18. Drive Bain’s Kloof Pass
If you’re travelling from Cape Town/Paarl/Wellington to or from Tulbagh, don’t miss driving over the historic Bain’s Kloof Pass. Built by the masterful Andrew Geddes Bain from 1849-1853, this 18km engineering masterpiece on the R301 is now a national monument. As the official ‘gateway to the north’, Bain’s Kloof Pass would have seen many ox wagons and horse-drawn carts back in the 19th century. Today, it’s a snaking tarred pass through indigenous vegetation to a height of 594m, with the river running like a ribbon at the bottom of the deep kloof. The road is in good condition after being extensively renovated and reopened in 2022.
The Tulbagh climate is warm and temperate with summer highs topping out in the mid 30s. Winter lows can reach 5 or 6 degrees Celsius at night but the days are warmish at 14-17 degrees even in mid-winter. Annual rainfall is around 580mm and more of it falls in winter than summer. The wettest months are June and July, with November to March the driest months. Snow may fall on the high mountain peaks in winter.
Tulbagh is a year-round destination; it just depends what you’re looking for. If you love sunny skies and hot days, summer would be the time to visit. But if you want to enjoy hot chocolate or red wine around a log fire, then winter will appeal to your romantic side. April has that autumn feel with the vineyards turning red and gold, while September is a spring time of new growth and blossoming fruit trees – and my personal favourite month to visit.
Where to find it
Tulbagh lies about 125km (90min) north-east of Cape Town via the N7 and R46.
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