What I love about CapeNature reserves is how they balance looking after nature with letting people actually experience it. Conservation is the top priority (as it should be), but they understand that ecotourism is a brilliant way to get people excited about nature – and also help fund the work that keeps these places protected. Here are some of my favourite spots, stretching from the rugged Cederberg all the way to the wild beauty of Kogelberg and beyond.
There are 26 CapeNature reserves dotted across the Western Cape, South Africa. I’ve listed my faves in a flow from the West Coast to the Overberg and Garden Route, and then the Karoo. Just to be clear: this isn’t a ranking. The first reserve is not ‘better’ than the second or the last. Each one has its own vibe and charm, and they’re all well worth a visit or revisit.
In the first sentence of each entry below, I’ve included a link to the reserve’s website so that you can simply click through for more details about the accommodation and how to book. If the ‘things to do’ sections whet your appetite, those links are the place to get more info about the activities each reserve offers.
Cederberg Wilderness Area
Where to find it
The reserve’s headquarters are at Algeria, about 220km north of Cape Town along the N7. From here it’s some 60km to the Kliphuis campsite on the Pakhuis Pass. The nearest towns are Clanwilliam and Citrusdal.
Cederberg accommodation
There are gorgeous two-bedroom cottages at Algeria, with full kitchen for self-catering, lovely views, and stoeps for braaing and relaxing. This is among my favourite CapeNature accommodation. Other cottages not far away sleep from four to eight people. There are well-appointed campsites at Algeria (although these are currently closed for a complete upgrade following flooding in 2023 and 2024) and also camping at Kliphuis on the Pakhuis Pass on the way to Wupperthal. (There’s also a host of private accommodation in the area, from luxury lodges to budget self-catering and camping.)
- Try world-class bouldering and rock climbing at Rocklands, not far from the Kliphuis campsite, or at Truitjieskraal near Kromrivier.
- Knock yourself out with numerous hiking choices in the area, from day trails to multi-day trails.
- On your hikes, look out for wildlife like grey rhebok, eland, klipspringer, duiker, baboon, and dassie. Caracal, porcupine, honeybadger, aardvark, Cape clawless otter, and leopards also live here but you’re less likely to see them.
- The Cederberg is part of the Cape floral region, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so enjoy the fynbos. Think snow proteas and red disas, or vygies, daisies and other annual flowering plants in spring.
- Bring your birding binos. Species you may spot include Verreaux’s eagle, jackal buzzard, Diederik and Klaas’s cuckoo, freckled nightjar, Cape bunting, fairy flycatcher, Cape rockjumper, mountain wheatear, and orange-breasted sunbird.
- Ride one of the laid-out trails on your mountain bike. There are two CapeNature trails near Algeria, as well as five at Cederberg Park, Kromrivier.
- Enjoy a heritage donkey cart adventure (taking in a visit to Heuningvlei or Wupperthal Moravian mission village), or a multi-night, heritage slackpacking trail with a guide from the local community.
- Admire a night sky full of stars without interference from city lights and pollution. (There’s even a small private observatory that’s open on Saturday evenings except at full moon.)
Read more about the Algeria Cottages, Cederberg
15 things to do in the Cederberg
Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve
Where to find it
You get to Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve via Algeria in the Cederberg (see above) where you need to get a permit. Algeria is about 220km north of Cape Town along the N7, and from there it’s another 35-40km along the Uitkyk Pass to Matjiesrivier.
Accommodation
There’s no CapeNature accommodation in this reserve, but it’s part of the Cederberg Wilderness Area so staying at Algeria (see above) makes a lot of sense.
- Hiking is one of the main reasons people come to the greater Cederberg Wilderness Area, for instance the trail to Lot’s Wife and Window Rocks at Dwarsrivier not far from Stadsaal Caves. There are also walks at Truitjieskraal nearby.
- Another drawcard at Matjiesrivier is bouldering or rock climbing at Truitjieskraal. The Mountain Club of South Africa has developed multiple routes in this area, with expressive names like Can Can Alley, Dragon’s Lair, Alzheimer’s Gulley, and Punks in the Cederberg.
- See well-preserved San rock art, including a rare and unusual depiction of elephants. This rock art is very well preserved; please don’t touch it so it can remain that way. You need a permit and the code for the locked gate; get these at the CapeNature office in Algeria, the Sanddrif office at Dwarsrivier, or at Cederberg Park, Kromrivier.
- Visit the amazing sandstone formations of the Stadsaal Caves. It’s nature’s masterpiece, a giant playground of layered rocks – sandstone and shale – that’s been shaped and carved by wind and water for millions of years. (Find out more about these in the link below.) You need a permit to visit the caves; get it at the CapeNature office in Algeria, the Sanddrif office at Dwarsrivier, or at Cederberg Park, Kromrivier.
Read more about Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve
Rocherpan Nature Reserve
Where to find it
Drive north from Cape Town to Velddrif 150km away on the R27; Rocherpan is another 25km north of Velddrif.
Rocherpan accommodation
Book a two-sleeper or four-sleeper eco-cabin (sleeps six if you use the daybeds too) with solar showers and waterless eco-toilets. There’s a built-in braai on the stoep, which is a super place to enjoy both the start and end of the day. The cabins come with a fully equipped kitchen for self-catering and there’s an inside fireplace for cold winter nights. Bring your own food, drinking water, and charcoal or eco-logs.
- Bring your bike and go mountain biking along the jeep tracks in the reserve.
- Hike along the beach or vlei walking trails (3-4 hours each).
- Spend time in one of three hides to spy on the birds, from water birds and waders to bush birds and even sea birds.
- Go whale-watching. The best time for this in the marine reserve and along the coast is from June to November. You can also spot dolphins from the beach all year round.
- Visit in spring (August/September) to enjoy a mosaic of colourful wildflowers.
- Cool off on a hot summer’s day with a dip in the swimming pool near the eco-cabins. Tempting as it may be, it’s best to avoid swimming in the ocean because of strong currents here.
- Pack a picnic to enjoy at one of two picnic/braai areas in the reserve.
- If you have an angling permit, go rod and line fishing along the shoreline.
Read more about Rocherpan Nature Reserve
Kogelberg Nature Reserve
Where to find it
Kogelberg is about 110km south east of Cape Town, via the N2 and R44. The nearest town is Kleinmond in the Overberg.
Kogelberg accommodation
Enjoy the lovely four-sleeper self-catering Oudebosch eco-cabins, each with sitting and dining areas and a fully equipped kitchen, as well as a built-in braai on the deck. They have two bedrooms and two bathrooms, one en suite. Or try the Mbali Collection two-sleeper or six-sleeper cabins, also with fully equipped kitchens and braais, and there’s an indoor fireplace too.
- Perhaps the number one thing people come to the Kogelberg to do is hiking. Hike a couple of the day trails or the two-day Highlands Trail.
- Go white-water kayaking on the Palmiet River in winter or tubing in summer.
- Enjoy a 22km mountain biking trail along a jeep track.
- Go birding to see fynbos species like sugarbirds and sunbirds, or take a drive to Stony Point penguin colony about 30 minutes west along the R44 to see these critically endangered birds.
- Enjoy whale-watching along the coastal section, especially from June to November.
- In summer, you’ll appreciate the chance to swim at designated sites along the Palmiet River. There’s also an eco-pool at the Oudebosch cabins and another at the Mbali Collection.
- Don’t miss a visit to the Rooisand Nature Reserve about 12km east along the R44 for a chance to see wild horses and lots of birds.
Read more about Kogelberg Nature Reserve
21 things to do in Kleinmond in the Cape Overberg
Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve
Where to find it
Grootvadersbosch in the Overberg region of the Western Cape is about 260km east of Cape Town. Approaching from the west, you’ll go via Swellendam, Buffeljags and Suurbraak. The reserve is about 23km north-east of Suurbraak along the R322. If you approach from the east, it’s about 20km along the R322 north-west of Heidelberg. The last stretch from either direction is gravel.
Grootvadersbosch accommodation
We love the self-catering cabins at Grootvadersbosch, with both an outdoor braai and indoor braai in the ‘kuierkamer’. Each cabin sleeps four or five people and has a view of either the valley or the forest. The two-bedroom Scolopia is a renovated old cottage on the edge of the indigenous forest. Situated near reception, it has an indoor fireplace and a decked, indoor braai. Or try one of the five furnished glamping tents on their own decks near the campsite. Each has a fully equipped kitchen, a firepit on the deck, and a view out over the valley. Budget travellers will enjoy the decked camping sites for pop-up tents, with lights, electrical and USB points, braai pit and grid, a bench, table and seating. A separate campsite opposite has bigger sites for campervans, caravans, and trailers.
- Probably the most popular activities in this forest are walking along day trails, or overnight hiking. Try the 10km Bushbuck Trail or the 15km Grysbok Circle.
- Bring your mountain bike and cycle the 6km trail in the reserve, or get a separate permit for one of the mtb trails on the Conservancy next door.
- There are some 200 species of birds at Grootvadersbosch; see if you can find crowned and booted eagles, the rare striped flufftail, narina trogon, sunbirds, and sugarbirds. Two bird hides along trails in the forest are great places to wait patiently while you listen to the soothing sounds of the forest.
- Cool off in summer in the pool near the self-catering cottages, or take a 3-5km hike to swim in the Duivenhoks River.
Read more about Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve
De Hoop Nature Reserve
Where to find it
De Hoop is in the Overberg, about 230km south-east of Cape Town via the N2 to Caledon, then the R316. The reserve lies on the coastal strip between Bredasdorp, Malgas and Witsand in the southern Cape.
De Hoop accommodation
Most accommodation in the reserve is run privately by the De Hoop Collection. It offers everything from camping and rustic self-catering rondavels with shared ablutions at the campsite, to luxury chalets, suites, and private houses. The Fig Tree restaurant has a lovely view out over the vlei. If you have deep pockets, try Natural Selection’s luxury concession with amazing views at Lekkerwater.
- There are some super day hikes here, from walks along the white sandy beaches at low tide to 6km and 10km hikes around Potberg Mountain.
- De Hoop is also famous for its Whale Trail, a five-night 55km hiking adventure from Potberg to Koppie Alleen; you overnight (bring your own bedding) in comfy cottages run by CapeNature. Phone CapeNature on 087-0878250 for Whale Trail bookings and permits.
- Multi-day hiking experiences with the De Hoop Collection are the slackpacking 3-night De Hoop Trail– Vlei to Whales and the 4-night De Hoop Camino coastal hike, both fully catered and with luxury accommodation.
- Enjoy the reserve’s natural beauty on one of a number of mountain bike trails. These vary from fairly easy to quite taxing so make sure beforehand what you’re signing up for.
- Bring your binos to find some of the 260 bird species in the reserve. De Hoop vlei is a magnet for water birds, you can find black oystercatchers along the coast, and the only remaining Western Cape breeding colony of the rare Cape vulture at Potberg. Don’t miss the Vulture Experience – a guided drive and about a one-hour walk to the vulture deck to watch vultures swoop and soar above you while your guide tells you lots of interesting info about these birds.
- On your drives around the reserve, look out for some of the 86 mammal species that live here, like Cape mountain zebra, bontebok, eland, and grey rhebok.
- Don’t miss a guided marine trail to learn about the creatures of the rock pools, from anemones and urchins to chitons and limpets. It’s one of the best guided walks we’ve done, loved by both adults and kids.
- De Hoop’s clear rock pools are also a great place for swimming and snorkelling.
- The high dunes at Koppie Alleen give an excellent vantage point for whale-watching; De Hoop is a breeding ground for the southern right whale between June and November. You can also watch dolphins and seals all year round.
Read more about De Hoop Nature Reserve
Goukamma Nature Reserve
Where to find it
About 480km east of Cape Town along the N2, between the Garden Route towns of Sedgefield and Knysna, you’ll see the right turn to Buffalo Bay. The entrance to Goukamma is on your right about 8km down this road.
Goukamma accommodation
There are two- to six-sleeper cottages overlooking the Goukamma River, four- to six-sleeper log cabins that hunker down on the edge of indigenous forest at Buffalo Valley, and the four-sleeper Mvubu Bush Camp – an elevated, wood-and-thatch cottage in a milkwood forest on the edge of Groenvlei.
- If you enjoy nature and walking you’re spoilt for choice at Goukamma, with a number of hiking trails from around 5km to 25km long. Choose from beach walks, dune walks through coastal fynbos, or walks through indigenous forest. An added bit of fun for some of the walks is the chance to use a little boat ferry: pull yourself along using the ropes slung across the river to get to the other side.
- Take your binos on your walks to catch up on some bird watching. Look for sombre greenbul and Knysna turaco in the forest, and the rare African black oystercatcher along the coast. You might also spot African fish-eagle, African spoonbill, sunbirds, kingfishers, and woodpeckers.
- From July to November, this is a good place for whale-watching, while you can spot bottle-nosed and humpback dolphins all year round.
- Explore the rock pools at low tide to find marine creatures like anemones and sea urchins.
- Hire a canoe and explore the river while keeping an eye out for wildlife and birds. Get canoes and life-jackets from the main reception office.
- Try rod and line angling from the shore at Groenvlei – you can get a permit from the reserve office.
Read more about Goukamma Nature Reserve
Swartberg Nature Reserve
Where to find it
Gamkaskloof is just off the Swartberg Pass 40km north of Oudtshoorn in the Little Karoo or about 55km south of Prince Albert. The last 37km down into the valley along Elands Pass is very steep gravel with about 200 bends, some of them hairpins. This last section alone will take you two-and-a-half to three hours, so don’t skimp on time.
Gamkaskloof accommodation
Restored old houses from the days before a road was built to access the settlement serve as self-catering accommodation in Gamkaskloof. Sleeping from two to eight people, they’re atmospheric, redolent of the old days and simpler times. There’s also a campsite with solar lights but no power points; bring your own supplies and torches.
- If you love hiking, you’ll be in your element here, with day trails and a two-day trail, as well as the challenging four-day Swartberg Trail.
- For a slackpacking option, try the six-day Donkey Trail, where donkeys transport your packs. It’s 70km of walking with some steep gradients so you need to be fairly fit.
- Mountain biking is only allowed at certain times of year so get permission first.
- Birders can look for species like martial and Verreaux’s eagle, Cape sugarbird, kingfishers, Pririt batis, Karoo thrush, green-backed cameroptera, southern tchagra, and others.
- Drive the 25.6km out-and-back Swartberg 4x4 Trail by booking in advance with CapeNature (minimum two 4x4 vehicles, maximum four vehicles).
- Indulge in some stargazing far from city lights and pollution.
- It’s worth exploring the little info centre at Ouplaas (at the Gamkaskloof reception office) when you book in to find out about the hardy people who used to live here.
Read more about Swartberg Nature Reserve
21 things to do in Prince Albert, Karoo
Gamkaberg Nature Reserve
Where to find it
Gamkaberg Nature Reserve is halfway between Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn off the R62 (about 400km east of Cape Town). The directions on Google Maps are wrong; rather use these GPS co-ordinates to find the entrance to the reserve: 33º 40’ 17.51” S, 21º 53’ 18.37” E.
Gamkaberg accommodation
There are four self-catering eco-lodges in the Gamkaberg, sleeping from two to eight in safari-style tents with communal kitchens and ablutions (except the two-sleeper Xami eco-lodge, which has its own kitchen and ablutions). If you’d rather go more rustic, there’s a remote camp at Ou Kraal with eight beds in four simple huts, reached via a 90min 4x4 trail or a six-hour hike. The best budget option is to sleep in your own tent pitched at the campsite near the main office and info centre.
- Go nuts here with single and two-pitch, trad rock climbing routes.
- Tackle a day hike (with choices from 0.7km to 14.5km) through Succulent Karoo and Subtropical Thicket, or book a two-day hiking trail at Tierkloof.
- Look out along your hikes and drives for Cape mountain zebra or antelope like eland, kudu, and red hartebeest.
- Birders should look for raptors like martial and Verreaux’s eagle, as well as bustards, korhaans, kingfishers, and a busy-ness of larks.
- If you love plants, you’ll find this a botanist’s paradise. Look, for instance, for the Kanna plant that the San and Khoi used to smoke, sniff or chew for its mind-altering properties. Look for bababoudtjies, perdetande, gansmis, and boesmanskers – all Afrikaans names that describe them so perfectly.
- Drive the out-and-back Zebra Crossing 4x4 trail to access the plateau where most of the herd animals like zebra and eland occur. It also allows you to admire the landscapes and special plants, with sweeping views of the Little Karoo. It’s a moderately difficult route and should take about three hours.
- Enjoy a picnic under a thatch lapa, or swim in the pools when you stay at the eco-lodges.
Read more about Gamkaberg Nature Reserve
Anysberg Nature Reserve
Where to find it
Anysberg is between Ladismith, Laingsburg, Touwsrivier and Montagu in the Karoo. It’s around 250km north-east of Cape Town along the N1 and a gravel road, and 75km south-west of the Karoo town of Laingsburg.
Anysberg accommodation
There’s a range of self-catering accommodation, from camping (no power points) with shared ablutions and kitchen, to charming old-fashioned two- to six-sleeper cottages. Two of the cottages (Seps and Leguaan) share ablutions, others have their own bathrooms.
- Drive the 21km Tapfontein circular 4x4 route in your high clearance 4x4 or, if you’re energetic, ride it on your mountain bike.
- Bring your own mountain bike and ride one of the marked jeep-track trails. Choose from an easy 7.5km trail, a moderate 22.5km circular route through rugged terrain, or the 49km trail for experienced riders.
- Hike a day trail like the 4.4km Landsekloof trail to a waterfall and back.
- On your hikes, look out for some of the reserve’s plants like succulents, and proteas at higher altitudes.
- On your drives or hikes, you may also spot wildlife like Cape mountain zebra, steenbok, duiker, gemsbok, red hartebeest, eland, and black-backed jackal. Brown hyena, caracal, leopard and the critically endangered riverine rabbit also live here but are seldom seen.
- Birders will enjoy seeing species like martial eagle, Verreaux’s eagle, Cape rockjumper, and southern black korhaan.
- Cool off with a swim in the pool at Vrede (where the cottages and campsite are).
- Enjoy some stargazing in the clear, dry Karoo air.
Read more about Anysberg Nature Reserve
Need to know
Here are some tips when planning your stay at any of these reserves.
- Remember that you’re not allowed to bring firewood into any CapeNature reserves. This is to try to prevent the effect that the destructive polyphagous shot-hole borer beetle has on trees. You can bring your own charcoal or eco-logs. Only some of the reserves sell firewood, eco-logs and charcoal, so check before your visit.
- CapeNature often offers low-season (winter) rates at a substantial discount on their normal rates so when June, July and August roll around, keep your eye on their website and newsletters, or check their booking site.
- For CapeNature reservations, phone 087-0878250, email [email protected], or register and book online.
- If you have a Wild Card, your entrance to CapeNature reserves is free for a year. See here for how to get one and what it costs. Just make sure you select the right ‘cluster’ – either CapeNature cluster for access to CapeNature’s 26 reserves in the Western Cape only, or All Parks cluster for access to 80+ parks and reserves across the country and Eswatini.
- Note that senior citizens (over 60) get a 30% discount on all CapeNature bookings. Once you’ve registered with your ID and other details, it should be applied automatically even if you book online, but just check to be sure before you pay.
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