By Roxanne Reid
Imagine a place of wide skies and open spaces, of solitude and tranquillity surrounded by nature. This is precisely what you’ll find at the Kliphuis at Sneeuberg Nature Reserve near Nieu Bethesda. It’s like a refreshing Karoo tonic, a reminder of the simple joys of following the rhythms of nature.
Imagine a place of wide skies and open spaces, of solitude and tranquillity surrounded by nature. This is precisely what you’ll find at the Kliphuis at Sneeuberg Nature Reserve near Nieu Bethesda. It’s like a refreshing Karoo tonic, a reminder of the simple joys of following the rhythms of nature.
Anyone who knows me knows about my not-so-secret love affair with the Karoo, that wide open, haunting space in the warm heart of South Africa. Is it the rocky koppies, the extremes of heat and cold, the winter palette of khaki and grey, enlivened by green in summer, the impossibly blue skies? Or is it the ancient fossils, the hardy but colourful plants, the characteristic architecture, the friendly people?
Here in the serene 15 000ha Sneeuberg Nature Reserve, about 35km from Nieu Betheda in the Great Karoo, the Sneeuberg and Renosterberg mountains surround you and the mountain air is refreshing. Revel in the stars at night, the changing light at dawn and dusk, the wide views and the unruffled tranquillity. It’s an idyllic place to get away from all your Big City cares to be enveloped by nature and stilled by the natural rhythms of each day.
Here in the serene 15 000ha Sneeuberg Nature Reserve, about 35km from Nieu Betheda in the Great Karoo, the Sneeuberg and Renosterberg mountains surround you and the mountain air is refreshing. Revel in the stars at night, the changing light at dawn and dusk, the wide views and the unruffled tranquillity. It’s an idyllic place to get away from all your Big City cares to be enveloped by nature and stilled by the natural rhythms of each day.
An isolated stone house, perfect for a peaceful few days away from everything
Up here in the mountains, the air is cooler than in the lower-lying areas like Graaff-Reinet, making Sneeuberg a perfect place to escape the heat during summer. We stayed during winter and found it super cold at night and early morning, but warm enough to relax in the sun during the middle of the day. According to reserve manager Richard Slater, temperatures here are some eight or nine degrees cooler than in Graaff-Reinet.
This Karoo nature reserve is the passion project of the late Charlotte Daneel and her partner Derk Blaisse, who bought the first farms that make up the reserve in 2004. Charlotte had loved the area since she visited as a child. Today, it comprises 15 000 hectares, all of it once farmland, but now left to regenerate.
In 2012 Sneeuberg Nature Reserve and four of its neighbours created the 26 000ha Compassberg Protected Environment. The first of its kind in the Eastern Cape, it has the support of the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency’s Stewardship Programme and aims to stand as a bulwark against development, mining and drilling for gas or oil.
The Kliphuis
When we visited Sneeuberg we stayed in the Kliphuis, which was a stone ruin back in 2004. Charlotte rebuilt and added to it so that by 2007 she had created a wonderful eight-sleeper space.
This Karoo nature reserve is the passion project of the late Charlotte Daneel and her partner Derk Blaisse, who bought the first farms that make up the reserve in 2004. Charlotte had loved the area since she visited as a child. Today, it comprises 15 000 hectares, all of it once farmland, but now left to regenerate.
In 2012 Sneeuberg Nature Reserve and four of its neighbours created the 26 000ha Compassberg Protected Environment. The first of its kind in the Eastern Cape, it has the support of the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency’s Stewardship Programme and aims to stand as a bulwark against development, mining and drilling for gas or oil.
The Kliphuis
When we visited Sneeuberg we stayed in the Kliphuis, which was a stone ruin back in 2004. Charlotte rebuilt and added to it so that by 2007 she had created a wonderful eight-sleeper space.
The wide stoep with views of Karoo veld and mountains
Standing alone on the veld at least four or five kilometres from another human being, it’s a place where you can feel Karoo magic in your marrow, a place to get away with friends and family for a private retreat that will leave you refreshed and ready to tackle the routine of your daily life again.
From where you leave the tar road for a gravel track, it’s about 33km to the Kliphuis, passing springbok and blue cranes along the way, and perhaps some sheep on neighbouring farms. The track is fairly slow-going in places, but you won’t mind because you’re here for the Karoo scenery. It does mean that you need to spend a minimum of two nights to really get the benefit of the off-the-beaten-track setting.
As an interior decorator, Charlotte’s touch breathed life into all the accommodation’s interiors, surrounded by Karoo landscapes. The Kliphuis has two bedrooms en suite, while a third double bedroom and a twin bedroom share a third bathroom.
From where you leave the tar road for a gravel track, it’s about 33km to the Kliphuis, passing springbok and blue cranes along the way, and perhaps some sheep on neighbouring farms. The track is fairly slow-going in places, but you won’t mind because you’re here for the Karoo scenery. It does mean that you need to spend a minimum of two nights to really get the benefit of the off-the-beaten-track setting.
As an interior decorator, Charlotte’s touch breathed life into all the accommodation’s interiors, surrounded by Karoo landscapes. The Kliphuis has two bedrooms en suite, while a third double bedroom and a twin bedroom share a third bathroom.
Main bedroom with closed fireplace behind the bed
Main bedroom
Since we visited during a cold snap in winter, we were pleased that there were electric blankets in all bedrooms and fireplaces in the lounge, dining room and main bedroom where we slept as warm as toast. Our bedroom also had a large table that we used as a desk, a kist, a wooden rocking chair and doors leading directly outside to the stoep.
The main en suite bathroom
The second bedroom
The lounge is a comfy space with big sofas in neutral shades, with red cushions and blankets for when it’s chilly and you want to sit on the verandah to enjoy the layered landscape. A large open fireplace and coffee table packed with books about the Karoo and nature mean that the lounge will be your favourite place to relax in winter.
Sitting area with open fireplace and lots of books
There’s an eight-seater round table in the open-plan dining area and two kitchens. One is a food prep space next to the dining area and has a gas stove, gas oven and microwave. The other is a large scullery area with sink, dishwasher, washing machine, tumble drier, fridge and wood burning Dover stove for warmth or hot water.
Kitchen prep area with the other kitchen through the door on the left and the dining table to the right
Karoo style with all the modern conveniences
Doors lead from the living area to a wide stoep where you can park yourself in a large wicker chair to contemplate the Karoo space around you, or at a long table with red-cushioned benches. Cactuses with carmine pink spines and large lanterns you can burn candles in serve as decoration. In the yard, there’s a fire pit where you can make a braai and sit around in safari chairs watching the flames. There’s also a closed Weber braai on the porch for windy nights.
Somewhere to enjoy your coffee in the early morning sunlight
The ambience is pure Karoo, with stone walls (hence the name Kliphuis, which translates as ‘stone house’) and stone or cement floors with kelims and rugs. It’s perfect for people who enjoy solitude and silence. Bring red wine in winter, play board games with family and friends around the fire, sit outside to catch the sun. You can go walking or mountain biking along the farm tracks, see Bushman paintings in a rock overhang.
But for me this place is more about being with people whose company and conversation you want space to enjoy, people you just want to chill with for a few days. Change gears and enjoy the seclusion, space and starlit skies. You might even get a visit from a couple of springbok or some of the Nguni cows that wander the veld here.
But for me this place is more about being with people whose company and conversation you want space to enjoy, people you just want to chill with for a few days. Change gears and enjoy the seclusion, space and starlit skies. You might even get a visit from a couple of springbok or some of the Nguni cows that wander the veld here.
Romantic candles on the stoep for an old-fashioned Karoo atmosphere
Bring your supplies and cook for yourselves in the well-equipped kitchens, or be as lazy as we were and order ready-made food to be delivered from the kitchen at Gordonville a few kilometres away. Think butternut soup, Karoo roasted chicken and veggies, venison bobotie or lasagna, all easy enough to reheat in the oven when you’re ready to eat. Dessert options include that Karoo special, malva pudding, as well as crème brûlée. Everything we had while we were there was delicious and portions were super generous.
The large table in one of the kitchens
Although there’s no cell phone reception at Sneeuberg – and the ideal is to disconnect and regenerate your batteries – there is wifi so you can stay connected with friends and family through Whatsapp. It’s also useful for contacting the helpful managers Richard and Daron Slater at Zuurfontein on the reserve with any requests or problems you may have during your stay.
The Kliphuis yard in the early morning sunlight
Other accommodation
Other places to stay on the Sneeuberg Nature Reserve are the six-sleeper Karoo cottage with its gorgeous open dining room/kitchen and old Oregon pine fireplace, and The Poplars, a twelve-sleeper house that you can hire separately or together with the Karoo Cottage for bigger get-togethers as they stand opposite each other. There are also suites in the elegant double-storey Gordonville Manor with its pool house, and a four-sleeper Gordonville cottage in its grounds. Explore Sneeuberg’s various accommodation options here.
For those who want to combine their stay at Sneeuberg with a couple of nights in Graaff-Reinet, there’s an eight-sleeper sister property in town called the Langhuis.
Other places to stay on the Sneeuberg Nature Reserve are the six-sleeper Karoo cottage with its gorgeous open dining room/kitchen and old Oregon pine fireplace, and The Poplars, a twelve-sleeper house that you can hire separately or together with the Karoo Cottage for bigger get-togethers as they stand opposite each other. There are also suites in the elegant double-storey Gordonville Manor with its pool house, and a four-sleeper Gordonville cottage in its grounds. Explore Sneeuberg’s various accommodation options here.
For those who want to combine their stay at Sneeuberg with a couple of nights in Graaff-Reinet, there’s an eight-sleeper sister property in town called the Langhuis.
Open-plan kitchen and dining area with an open hearth in the Karoo Cottage
Gordonville Manor, built in the 1920s
Things to do at Sneeuberg Nature Reserve
Although for me the allure of Sneeuberg is the open space, big skies and tranquility to do nothing but sit back in nature and relax, there are also some more energetic things to do if you’re up for that. Here are 10 things to do on the reserve.
1. Hiking
Given that there are no large predators on the reserve, it’s safe to walk wherever you like to enjoy the views and the Karoo vegetation, perhaps to share the space with some peaceful Nguni cows, zebra or antelope. If you’re seriously fit, you might want to tackle climbing the Compassberg on a nearby farm. This is the Eastern Cape’s highest free-standing peak (2502m). Note that it’s on private land so first call Brenda or Alf James on 087-1504922 for permission and directions. It’s a moderate to difficult hike that starts at their farmhouse and takes you to the summit for wraparound views of the Great Karoo. The round-trip hike should take 6-8 hours, depending on your fitness level.
2. 4x4 trails
Take to some of the 200km of mountain trails in your 4x4 to explore the koppies, enjoy the views of mountains and valleys, and spot some of the local wildlife (see point 4).
3. Mountain biking
Bring your mountain bike with you for an even more close-to-nature experience of the great outdoors. If you’re fit and energetic, you might consider cycling the 35km to Nieu-Bethesda for lunch; just remember that you need to reserve enough energy to cycle the 35km back to Sneeuberg afterwards.
4. Game viewing
Although for me the allure of Sneeuberg is the open space, big skies and tranquility to do nothing but sit back in nature and relax, there are also some more energetic things to do if you’re up for that. Here are 10 things to do on the reserve.
1. Hiking
Given that there are no large predators on the reserve, it’s safe to walk wherever you like to enjoy the views and the Karoo vegetation, perhaps to share the space with some peaceful Nguni cows, zebra or antelope. If you’re seriously fit, you might want to tackle climbing the Compassberg on a nearby farm. This is the Eastern Cape’s highest free-standing peak (2502m). Note that it’s on private land so first call Brenda or Alf James on 087-1504922 for permission and directions. It’s a moderate to difficult hike that starts at their farmhouse and takes you to the summit for wraparound views of the Great Karoo. The round-trip hike should take 6-8 hours, depending on your fitness level.
2. 4x4 trails
Take to some of the 200km of mountain trails in your 4x4 to explore the koppies, enjoy the views of mountains and valleys, and spot some of the local wildlife (see point 4).
3. Mountain biking
Bring your mountain bike with you for an even more close-to-nature experience of the great outdoors. If you’re fit and energetic, you might consider cycling the 35km to Nieu-Bethesda for lunch; just remember that you need to reserve enough energy to cycle the 35km back to Sneeuberg afterwards.
4. Game viewing
A game drive is a chance to enjoy the Karoo landscapes too
On your walks, drives or mountain biking rides around the nature reserve you may see wildlife like springbok, kudu, zebra, black wildebeest, steenbok, eland, mountain rhebok or baboon. Creatures that get out and about at dusk or night-time include bat-eared fox, African wild cat and porcupine.
5. Birding
Some 110 bird species have been recorded at Sneeuberg Nature Reserve. Definitely the most exciting of these is the blue crane, which is South Africa’s national bird and designated ‘vulnerable’ on the International Union for the Conservation of Nature’s Red Data list. You can hear them calling as they fly overhead or watch them showing off by throwing things in the air and jumping to impress the females in mating season. Other birds you might spot include larks, spurfowl, guineafowl, secretary bird and – if you’re lucky – Verreaux’s eagle.
6. San rock paintings
5. Birding
Some 110 bird species have been recorded at Sneeuberg Nature Reserve. Definitely the most exciting of these is the blue crane, which is South Africa’s national bird and designated ‘vulnerable’ on the International Union for the Conservation of Nature’s Red Data list. You can hear them calling as they fly overhead or watch them showing off by throwing things in the air and jumping to impress the females in mating season. Other birds you might spot include larks, spurfowl, guineafowl, secretary bird and – if you’re lucky – Verreaux’s eagle.
6. San rock paintings
San painting in a rock overhang
In a kloof a few kilometres from the Kliphuis are some San rock paintings. You can walk there from Kliphuis, but probably won’t find them unless you’re with a local who knows exactly where they are. From the other accommodation on the reserve, it would also be best to ask someone to take you in the reserve’s vehicle.
We went with Bongani Nombewu, seeing springbok, blesbok and black wildebeest along the way, as well as a herd of Nguni cattle with their beautiful colours and coats. Among the paintings, there’s what looks like an ochre eland, another red buck and some dots and stripes that may be fingers or have some other meaning that eludes me. Although the overhang must have protected the artwork from rain and wind over the centuries, they’re sadly quite faded and some bits are flaking off from the rock.
Nearby is a small river where you can enjoy a picnic. Plan ahead if you want Gordonville’s kitchen to prepare it for you, or put together your own impromptu picnic instead.
7. Sunsets and sunrises
Rise early to brew a cup of coffee and get ready to enjoy the sunrise over the koppies in front of the Kliphuis. See the sky turn pale peach before a hot yellow sun rises from behind mountains. Listen to call of red-eyed doves or Namaqua sandgrouse as they fly overhead. At sunset, grab a glass of wine and sit on the stoep to watch as the colours on the horizon intensify and then leach from a darkening sky.
8. Star gazing
Spend some time around the fire pit in the yard (wrap up warmly in winter) and take a moment to look up to appreciate the stars and constellations of the Karoo night sky. Here the air is clean and dry, with little light pollution to rob the skies of their magnificence.
9. Further afield – day trip to Nieu Bethesda
We went with Bongani Nombewu, seeing springbok, blesbok and black wildebeest along the way, as well as a herd of Nguni cattle with their beautiful colours and coats. Among the paintings, there’s what looks like an ochre eland, another red buck and some dots and stripes that may be fingers or have some other meaning that eludes me. Although the overhang must have protected the artwork from rain and wind over the centuries, they’re sadly quite faded and some bits are flaking off from the rock.
Nearby is a small river where you can enjoy a picnic. Plan ahead if you want Gordonville’s kitchen to prepare it for you, or put together your own impromptu picnic instead.
7. Sunsets and sunrises
Rise early to brew a cup of coffee and get ready to enjoy the sunrise over the koppies in front of the Kliphuis. See the sky turn pale peach before a hot yellow sun rises from behind mountains. Listen to call of red-eyed doves or Namaqua sandgrouse as they fly overhead. At sunset, grab a glass of wine and sit on the stoep to watch as the colours on the horizon intensify and then leach from a darkening sky.
8. Star gazing
Spend some time around the fire pit in the yard (wrap up warmly in winter) and take a moment to look up to appreciate the stars and constellations of the Karoo night sky. Here the air is clean and dry, with little light pollution to rob the skies of their magnificence.
9. Further afield – day trip to Nieu Bethesda
The Camel Yard at the Owl House in Nieu Bethesda
The Karoo village of Nieu Bethesda is about 35km away and makes a fabulous day trip. Don’t miss visiting Helen Martin’s Owl House and Camel Yard, a great example of outsider art that is both strange and darkly compelling. For other things to do in the village, see my post 17 things to do in Nieu Bethesda in the Karoo.
10. Further afield – day trip to Graaff-Reinet
If you love historic old buildings or nature, a visit to Graaff-Reinet is a must. Graaff-Reinet is about 80km away on the N9 and makes a great stop before or after your visit to Sneeuberg. See the famous Victorian Gothic church, the sheer volume of national monuments, visit the Valley of Desolation in the Camdeboo National Park that surrounds the town. For more info about things to do here, see my post 12 things to do in Graaff-Reinet.
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10. Further afield – day trip to Graaff-Reinet
If you love historic old buildings or nature, a visit to Graaff-Reinet is a must. Graaff-Reinet is about 80km away on the N9 and makes a great stop before or after your visit to Sneeuberg. See the famous Victorian Gothic church, the sheer volume of national monuments, visit the Valley of Desolation in the Camdeboo National Park that surrounds the town. For more info about things to do here, see my post 12 things to do in Graaff-Reinet.
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
