Namaqua National Park guide: everything you need to know

By Roxanne Reid
Think carpets of spring flowers, giant rock formations, star-filled night skies and the pounding of the Atlantic Ocean. This is the Namaqua National Park south-west of Springbok in South Africa’s Northern Cape. Here’s a guide to everything you need to know. 

​Namaqua National Park is part of the semi-desert Succulent Karoo biome, which is the richest bulb flora of any arid region in the world. This is what the park was established to conserve, first as the Skilpad Wildflower Reserve in 1988, which was later incorporated into the park when it was founded in 2002. The coastal section between the Groen and Spoeg rivers was added as part of the park in 2008.

The extraordinary plant life is just one aspect of this special patch of nature. If you explore both sections of the park, you’ll find mammals and birds, rocks and tidal pools, caves and shifting white dunes, rolling hills and mountain passes, fossilised termite mounds and areas of large rounded boulders.

Dawn in the Skilpad section

Getting there
Namaqua National Park is about 500km north of Cape Town. To get to the main Skilpad office, take the N7 and turn off to Kamieskroon. Turn left at the hotel (instead of right to the town) and follow the gravel road that passes underneath the N7. Continue west for 21km to get to the park.

To get to the Groenrivier Gate in the coastal section, take the N7 north from Cape Town and turn off to Garies. Pass through the town and turn west toward Groenrivier. Follow the gravel road for about 73km to the park’s entrance. The office is about 500m beyond the gate.

Getting around
Namaqua National Park is a place where the 4x4 is king. The Groenrivier coastal section is soft sand and the gravel road that connects it to the Skilpad section is a 4x4 trail. But that doesn’t mean if you have a 2x4 sedan that you can’t visit the park. The Skilpad section further north-east is accessible by sedan – just drive slowly on the gravel road from Kamieskroon. There’s a short circular trail in this section that’s doable in a sedan too, so everyone can see the wild flowers in spring. Speed limit in the park is 50km/h, but often the condition of the road will mean you need to drive more slowly. Don’t forget to carry spare wheels and tools.

Skilpad cottage

Best time to visit
Namaqualand and the Namaqua National Park are in South Africa’s winter rainfall area, with most rain falling between June and August. Winter temperatures range from 7 to 19 degrees Celsius, while summers are hot and dry with temperatures that can get up to the low 40s. Spring is both the prettiest and the busiest season given the displays of wild flowers, but autumn can also be enjoyable and is a lot quieter. Autumn and winter see frequent mist but that usually clears by mid-morning. When a cold front is on its way in winter, the north-westerly wind is super cold and will cut right through you. In summer there are frequent south or south-easterly winds – a factor to consider when planning your coastal camping.

Facilities in the park

• Be self-sufficient because there’s no shop, restaurant or fuel in either section of the park. The nearest fuel to the Skilpad section is in Kamieskroon 21km away. The nearest fuel to the remote Groenrivier section is in Garies 73km away.
• Take your own firewood (and drinking/washing water if you’re camping at Groenrivier).

Things to do at Namaqua National Park

1. See the spring flowers 

Wild flowers in spring

You have to see Namaqualand flowers at least once in your life. And Namaqua National Park is the perfect place to see spectacular carpets of wild flowers in spring. Namaqualand has more than 3000 plant species, at least half of them endemic to the area. Think bittergousblom, geelkatstert, Livingstone daisy, spider lily, vygie, Cape rain daisy and more. When there have been good rains at the right time, the spring flowers paint the veld in bright colours from orange and yellow to white, pink and blue, especially in August and September. You’ll get the best effect on bright sunny days when all the flowers open fully. There’s a short circular drive in the Skilpad section of the park that’s suitable for all vehicles, including sedans.

As a side note, spring isn’t the only time to see flowering plants. In autumn, for instance, you obviously won’t get carpets of spring flowers, but keep your eyes open to spot some beauties like pink March lilies and succulents.

2. Don’t miss the quiver trees ​

Quiver (kokerboom) trees

Almost everyone is bedazzled by the spring wild flower displays (see point 1) and gives little thought to Namaqualand’s other plants, but look out too for the amazing quiver tree, or kokerboom (Aloe dichotoma). This large succulent bursts into yellow flower in winter. Its fibrous branches came in handy for San hunters who hollowed them out to use as quivers to hold their arrows. Large trunks or branches were used in the old days as coffins and fridges to keep food from spoiling. You can find some of these trees along the Skilpad section of the Caracal 4x4 Eco-Route (see point 4).

3. Explore the wild coastal section of the park
If you have a 4x4, explore the Groen-Spoeg River coastal section of the park in the south-west. This was declared a Marine Protected Area in 2019. See one of the few unspoilt sections of Namaqualand Coastal Duneveld and enjoy swathes of colourful vygies. You can rough camp here – there are no facilities except enviro-loos. The Spoeg River estuary in the north of this section is a good spot for birds, especially waders. Nearby are the Spoeg River Caves where a shell midden dates back to 100CE (100AD). It shows that the early hunter-gatherers here lived on limpets, mussels, crayfish, stranded seals and plants gathered in the veld. There’s also evidence of the oldest domesticated sheep in South Africa.

4. Drive the Caracal 4x4 Eco-Route ​

Caracal 4x4 Eco-Route

You’ll definitely get the most out of your visit to the park if you come in a 4x4 vehicle, making all its roads available to you. Prime among these is the eco-route that takes you from Skilpad Rest Camp into the mountains and all the way down to the Groenrivier coastal section. Depending on which tracks you choose, it’s a 176-200km route so it’s a good idea to arrange to sleep at Luiperdskloof Cottage or camp at one of the Groenrivier campsites (see accommodation section below), or even to arrange accommodation in Hondeklip Bay (see point 12). Trying to do the whole trail and still get back to Skilpad in a day will rob you of the chance to enjoy the trail at a leisurely pace.

Enjoy gravel mountain passes, grass plains, white dunefields and a spectacular coastline along the way. Remember to stop to admire the views. Provided you do the trail in the dry season (October to May), it’s not a technical challenge although you will encounter steep sections and dongas in the north and soft sand in the coastal section. In the wet season, it’s best for two vehicles to travel together and not to cross strongly flowing streams. Get an info book from reception at Skilpad to help you navigate the trail and uncover snippets about the landscape you pass through. Book the trail directly with the park on tel (027) 672-1948.
Read more about the Caracal 4x4 Eco-Route

5. Enjoy a walking trail
There are two short walking trails that start near the Skilpad office, which is where you can get a map. The 5km circular Skilpad Walking Trail is especially beautiful in flower season (August and September) and gives you a chance to see the flowers up close. Do resist the urge to walk off the path and into the flowers for photos!

The 3km Korhaan Walking Trail ambles through some bushy areas to give you a chance to see a wider variety of plants.

A third trail, the Heaviside Hiking Trail, starts about 15km north of the Groenrivier office in the coastal section of the park. It takes you over dunes, along a rocky section of coastline and along the beach. This is a trail for those who want a chance to see humpback whales, Heavyside’s dolphins and birds like black oystercatchers. You can also explore the tidal pools at low tide. The trail is 6km one way. You can either double your distance by returning to the starting point, or arrange for someone to pick you up at the boardwalk where it ends.

6. Spot the mammals

African wild cat

Mammals like caracal, African wild cat, leopard and aardwolf make their home in the park, though on your drives and walks you’re more likely to see species like springbok, steenbok, red hartebeest, gemsbok and perhaps even meerkat. Along the coastal section keep a lookout for Cape fur seals, southern right whales and Heaviside’s dolphins.

7. Go birdwatching
If you’re a keen birder, look out during your walks and drives for species like Ludwig’s bustard, Verreaux’s and martial eagle, as well as cinnamon-breasted warbler, long-billed lark, Karoo lark and Cape bunting. In the Groen-Spoeg coastal section you should see lots of waders, Cape cormorants and black oystercatchers.

8. Meet Namaqualand’s special small creatures 

Angulate tortoise

Namaqualand is by no means all about big animals. Look out for little cuties like the barking gecko, the Namaqua flat lizard and the Namaqua chameleon. This is the fastest chameleon in the world, moving at speeds of up to 3km/h. Its hunting tongue is pretty fast too; according to a study at Brown University, if it was a car it would be able to accelerate from 0 to 100km/h in 1/100th of a second! You also find the angulate tortoise, the small geometric tortoise and the Namaqua speckled padloper in the park. The latter is the world’s smallest tortoise – an adult is only about as long as your finger.

9. Bring your mountain bike
Although the coastal section (see point 3 above) is too sandy to ride a mountain bike, there are plenty of tracks you can use in the Skilpad section if you remember to pack your bike. There are no formal mtb trails, but you’re welcome to use any roads or tracks open to the public for getting out into the fresh air and giving your legs a workout.

10. Meet the people ​

Woman with a Namaqua bonnet

Visit some of the communities surrounding the park like Leliefontein, Rooifontein, Soebatsfontein and Spoegrivier to meet the locals. They can trace their long history back to the KhoiSan hunter-gatherers who came to the area some 2000 years ago. You might even spot a traditional round matjieshuis (mat house) here or a frilly Namaqua bonnet there.

11. Visit Hondeklip Bay
If you drive the Caracal 4x4 Eco-Route (see point 4 above) it’s worth taking a detour to the settlement of Hondeklip Bay, especially if you’re a keen fisherman or you enjoy eating fresh fish and shellfish. The town serves mainly a fishing and diamond-mining community. See the lighthouse and visit the wreck of the Aristea which ran aground south of town in 1945. The Aristea was a fishing trawler that was converted to a minesweeper during World War II. It came to an undignified end on the rocks here because apparently the captain was too drunk to handle it properly in rough seas. The Spoeg River caves (see point 3 above) are about 18km south of Hondeklip Bay.

12. Walk the Namaqua Camino ​

Namaqua Camino walkers passing the Spoegrivier Caves - Photo: Namaqua Camino

Love walking? Want to challenge yourself to find your inner reserves of endurance? If you’re fighting fit, then sign on for the 10-day 260km slack-pack walk that is the Namaqua Camino. This circular walk starts and ends at Hondeklip Bay (see point 11) and will take you through some changing landscapes, from arid plains to the unspoilt Atlantic coastline of the Namaqua National Park. Distances covered each day vary from 21 to 30km. You carry a light day pack and everything else is taken to the next camp for you. The facilities at the overnight camps are basic but you get bucket toilets, hot showers with rationed water, and three meals a day.

Namaqua National Park accommodation

Skilpad Rest Camp ​

The sun porch of the Skilpad cottages

Skilpad rest camp has just four chalets, and they’re among my favourites of all accommodation in the SANParks’ portfolio across the country – perfect for really switching off and relaxing. Each sleeps two people in the bedroom while a sleeper couch in the living room is best for two children or one adult. A separate dining area on the full-width porch also has wicker easy chairs and windows that fold back to give you uninterrupted views of the surrounding veld. There’s a fireplace in the living room, which warms the open-plan living/kitchen area in winter. An aircon in the bedroom and ceiling fan in the living area provide cooling relief in summer. A well equipped kitchen has everything you need for self-catering, including fridge-freezer, four-plate stove with oven, and a microwave. Each unit has a small outside braai area. Two of the cottages are fairly close to each other, perfect for two couples or families travelling together.
See photos of the Skilpad chalets

Luiperdskloof Guest Cottage
Luiperdskloof cottage makes a rustic stop for visitors driving the Caracal 4x4 Eco-Route (see point 4 above). The cottage has three bedrooms and one bathroom. There’s a fireplace in the lounge and a braai area outside. There’s no electricity, but a gas oven and gas fridge-freezer in the kitchen, and paraffin lamps and candles for light. Bring your own firewood, and expect spotty cellphone reception. Check in at the Skilpad reception office by at least 14:00 because the cottage is a two- to three-hour drive from there. [Update February 2021: Sadly, this cottage has been closed for the forseeable future.]

Namaqua Flower Camps ​

Namaqua Flower Beach Camp - Photo: www.flowercamps.co.za

Two luxury tented camps, Namaqua Flower Skilpad Camp and Namaqua Flower Beach Camp, open only during the peak of flower season in August and September. The Flower camp is in the Skilpad section of the park, and the Beach camp in the Groenrivier coastal section. You don’t need a 4x4 to access either camp. These are fully catered camps (no self-catering). Paraffin lamps provide a romantic atmosphere and there are generator-driven lights and charging points for your camera batteries. It’s still helpful to bring a head torch if you have one. Sleep in glamping luxury – proper beds with cotton sheets and warm duvets. Each tent has its own shower and loo; donkey boilers are lit for hot-water showers early in the morning and late afternoon. Toilets are chemical porta-loos or enviro-loos.

Namaqua National Park beach camping ​

Beach campsites in the Groenrivier section of the park

In the coastal section of the park between the Groen and Spoeg rivers, you can find some of the best rustic beach camping in the country. There are some 46 camp sites in nine clusters, taking in the park’s entire coastline from north to south. You need to bring everything you need with you, from firewood to water for drinking and washing. There are no showers and only some of the sites have enviro-loos. Although there are some low rock-wall wind breaks, a sturdy windshield of some description is useful for when the coastal winds pick up (which is often). Since there’s no cell phone reception, it’s a perfect chance to cut loose and enjoy being away from it all. Book in at the Groenrivier Gate and drive to your site along rough roads with some sections of soft sand. You can get to Delwerskamp, which is the campsite closest to the Groenrivier Gate (about 1km), and Groen River (about 3km from the gate) in a normal car. For the rest of the sites further north, don’t try to come without a 4x4. Lower your tyre pressure to avoid getting stuck in soft sand.
Find maps of the camp layouts

Need to know
SANParks Central Reservations (for rates and bookings)
Tel (012) 428-9111
Email: [email protected]
www.sanparks.org

Namaqua National Park direct
Tel (027) 672-1948
Email: [email protected]

You may also enjoy
12 reasons to visit Namaqua National Park
Anatolian dogs conserve wildlife in Namaqualand
Best South African holiday destinations and places to visit 

Like it? Pin this image!

Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za