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Olifantsrus Camp in Etosha National Park

10/2/2016

39 Comments

 
Olifantsrus Campsite, Etosha National Park, Namibia
By Roxanne Reid
Olifantsrus Camp in Etosha National Park in Namibia is the park’s newest campsite and it’s a wonderfully different experience. For the first time in Etosha’s history it’s a dedicated campsite, with not a chalet to be seen. And it’s in the western section that was previously closed to ordinary tourists.

​Coming from Kamanjab in Kunene, we entered Etosha National Park (see my guide to everything you need to know about Etosha here) through Galton Gate, from where it was about 60km to Olifantsrus Campsite. Game along this drive wasn’t plentiful, but we did see giraffe, zebra, impala, springbok, kudu and warthog.
Olifantsrus Camp is one of the best campsites in Namibia
Olifantsrus is Etosha's first camp exclusively for campers and camping
We discovered by far the best Etosha camping and definitely among the best campsites in Namibia. The communal showers and kitchen area were modern and clean, and there was a small kiosk where you could buy cold drinks, tea/coffee, breakfast and light meals like toasted sarmies. For campsite rates, see Namibia Wildlife Resorts​ (NWR). NWR are also the people to help you with your bookings.

The friendly and helpful Hange Penandino gave us a warm welcome and came around to our campsite a bit later to check that we were happy with everything. This was a special touch not all that common in our Etosha experience, where staff can sometimes be quite offhand. (On a return trip in June 2018, Hange and Elias Petru were still there and just as helpful as ever.)
Olifantsrus Etosha National Park
Olifantsrus staff Elias Petru (left) and Hange Penandino
​For me there were two very special things about Olifantsrus Camp, Etosha. First was that feeling of being closer to nature, surrounded as we were by the bush in this intimate little camp where many of the sites looked straight out into the wilderness. At night the sight of campfires burning through the darkness was oddly soothing too. 
Olifantsrus, Etosha camping, Etosha National Park camping, Namibia
Camp close to the fence and waterhole for some of the best sightings in the area
​Double-storey hide
The second special thing about Olifantsrus was its magnificent dual-level hide jutting out over a manmade waterhole. A lot of the money to establish the camp seems to have come from the ‘American people’ through the Millennium Challenge Fund, and the hide is a well-designed gem resulting from this relationship. 
The hide, Olifantsrus Camp, Etosha National Park
Olifantsrus's fabulous double-storey hide at the waterhole
​The first time we visited, the downstairs section was closed until they could replace the glass with rhino/elephant-proof glass with a reflective surface so the wildlife wouldn’t be able to see the people inside. I couldn't wait to go back to sit at ground level with the waterhole all around me and the animals just a whisper away. [Update June 2018: As promised, we returned to Olifantsrus for a longer stay and found that the lower level of the hide had been opened.]
View from the hide, Olifantsrus Camp, Etosha National Park
Zebras from the top level of the hide; note the angle from above
​In the top level of the hide there’s seating for 24 or more people, depending on whether you sit two to an opened hatch or three of you squish in together with your kids. I watched some zebras, a lone gemsbok drinking and two springbok rams battling to prove who was stronger. Hange told me there’s often elephant, rhino, lion and hyena as well. 
Interior of the upper level of the hide, Olifantsrus Camp, Etosha National Park
The top level of the hide with its hatches open; the bottom level is glassed
​Elephant’s rest info centre
Olifantsrus has a small info centre with information about Etosha’s elephants, their status, family ties and conflicts with people. It also tells the story of the culling of more than 500 elephants here in the 1980s. 

Apparently the first aerial survey in Etosha in 1967 counted about 500 elephants in the dry season. By 1973 the number had risen to 1300 and by 1983 there were 3000. One reason for this was reproduction, but elephants had also immigrated here to get away from poaching in northwestern Namibia during the South African military operations there. 
Elephant centre, Olifantsrus Camp, Etosha National Park, camping Namibia
Olifantsrus's elephant info centre, with elephant skulls in the foreground
​After the severe drought between 1980 and 1983 when grass in Etosha died off, park managers were worried about desertification, the threat to biodiversity and the survival of other species like black rhino. So they decided to follow the example of Kruger National Park in South Africa and cull elephants. Of course, this sort of thing isn’t done anymore – Africa is losing quite enough elephants to poachers, thank you very much – but at the time it seemed like a good idea.

​Between 1983 and 1985, 525 elephants were culled and their bodies brought by low-bed truck to Olifantsrus (which means ‘elephant’s rest’). At the campsite today you can still see the huge steel structures that were used to hoist the animals for butchering. They and a few sun-dried skulls stand as a haunting reminder of the area’s past. 
Olifantsrus Campsite, Etosha camping, Namibia
The scaffolding of the field abattoir used during the elephant culls of the 1980s
Although the info centre is at pains to point out that entire family units were dispatched rapidly to minimise trauma for surrounding elephants, that the meat was used to feed Namibians, and that scientific data was collected from the culled animals, it’s still a troubling part of history that may be hard for sensitive souls to come to terms with.

Waterholes worth exploring
After just one night at Olifantsrus on our first visit – far too short, so don’t make the same rookie mistake we did! – we continued our journey towards Okaukuejo further east. Along the way we saw some big herds of springbok and a herd of 20 elephant moving parallel to the road. At Ozonjuitji m’Bari waterhole on the edge of the Charl Marais Dam there was an ample gathering of game that included elephant, giraffe, springbok, zebra, gemsbok and wildebeest.

[Update: On our return trip in mid 2018, we explored some of the waterholes to the west of Olifantsrus and saw tons of zebras at a seasonal pan, elephants with calves at Jakkalswater (plus zebra, gemsbok, giraffe and ostrich), and zebra, giraffe, springbok, bateleur and white-backed vulture at Okawao.]

It’s also worth taking a detour to Okondeka on your way to Okaukuejo. Since it’s the only waterhole north of Okaukuejo that has water in the dry season, there’s usually lots of giraffe and plains game here. We’ve also seen lions more than once on different visits. In the rainy season when the pan is full of water, you may even see a shimmer of flamingo pink.

If you’re a keen camper and you love wildlife and wilderness, I can highly recommend adding at least two or three nights at Olifantsrus to your next trip to Etosha National Park. I know we will. 

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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
Experience camping in the western section of Etosha National Park by staying at Olifantsrus Camp, Etosha, Namibia #travel #Namibia #camping #OlifantsrusCampsite #campingNamibia #Etoshacamping #bestcampsitesinNamibia
Experience camping in the western section of Etosha National Park by staying at Olifantsrus Camp, Etosha, Namibia #travel #Namibia #camping #OlifantsrusCampsite #campingNamibia #Etoshacamping #bestcampsitesinNamibia
39 Comments
Albert Kruis
11/2/2016 05:10:47 pm

Thanks. I did not know it existed. Sounds great. Will book.

Reply
Roxanne
11/2/2016 08:30:18 pm

You're welcome, Albert. Hope you have a fabulous time!

Reply
John Saunders
11/2/2016 05:13:59 pm

It sounds like a must. Thanks goodness for foreign investment. I do not thinks Namibian Parks could afford something like this. One up for campers!

Reply
Roxanne
11/2/2016 08:29:38 pm

True, John, investment like this is very special. It's a fab place and we'll definitely go back.

Reply
Emily
11/2/2016 05:14:59 pm

Do they have power points for the camps sites?

Reply
Roxanne
11/2/2016 08:28:09 pm

Most of the sites do have power points, Emily, but not all of them. You need to specify when you book.

Reply
Attie Bouwer
12/2/2016 03:32:44 am

Are there any predaators in the park if yes which and plus minus how many?

Reply
Roxanne
12/2/2016 09:29:24 am

There are masses of predators in Etosha, Attie, including lion, leopard, cheetah and spotted hyena. As for their numbers I couldn't really say. I just know we never go there without seeing all of those I've mentioned.

Reply
Tilly
23/4/2017 02:00:14 am

Hi Roxanne. Really enjoyed your blog on Etosha camping at Olifantsrus. Which specific campsite number would you recommend? We are about to finalize our Etosha reservations for Oct and Nov. Many thanks. Any other quiet and peaceful campsites in the other 3 camps? Not stopping at Dolomite. Cheers. Tilly

Reply
Roxanne
23/4/2017 08:52:56 am

Thanks, Tilly. There may be others who have managed to book a specific site ahead of time but we have never got that right; they always tell us you can't book a specific site. That said, Olifantsrus is no problem as most sites are along the fence, though it helps to have a very long lead if you want power to your site.
All the sites at Okaukuejo are equal in that they have no shade in the dry season and are a bit squished, though those from 29, 30 and up are a little more peaceful and may have a spot of shade in Oct/Nov (but have the disadvantage of being a bit further from the waterhole).
Halali campsite is usually quite empty so you get to pick a decent site anyway; we like one not far from the road that leads to the waterhole so we can walk there often (tho not the one right on the corner, which gets dust from everyone screeching up there in their cars to see the sunset).
At Namutoni, just avoid the sites on the far left as you enter because those are usually used by Overlanders and can get noisy. Apart from that, the campsite is small that almost anywhere is as good as anywhere else.
Hope you have a super time.

Reply
Katie
11/8/2017 01:07:32 pm

Hi, how long do you need to drive form Etosha to Windhoek. Is it possible in 1 day? Thanks and lovely photos!!

Reply
Roxanne
11/8/2017 03:24:23 pm

If you're driving from Anderson Gate near Okaukuejo Camp at Etosha, Katie, it's about 500km to Windhoek, so certainly possible in a day, especially given that the B1 between Etosha and Windhoek is a good, straight road. However, if you're staying at Olifantsrus camp, you would either need to travel 150km through the park (speed limit 50km/h) to Anderson Gate, or go out at Galton Gate (about 60km from Olifanstrus) and then via Kamanjab on the C40 to Outjo before you hit the B1. This will take longer because the C roads are not as good as the B1. Either way, it would make a long day's travel from Olifantsrus. Hope that helps.

Reply
Jessca
15/9/2017 08:19:44 pm

Hi Roxanne, next year I will travel to Namibia with my husband and daughter (8 years old then). Your blog is really helpful. Thanks for that! I was wondering how many nights Etosha you would recommend. We would like to stay at Olifantrus for two nights. Are the other campsites just as nice and how many nights do you recommend there? We love to watch wildlife!
Thank you! Kind regards, Jessica

Reply
Roxanne
16/9/2017 08:06:38 am

Ah Jessica, it depends how long you have and can afford. Minimum two nights at each, as they all have good waterholes in the area, except Olifantsrus which only has the M'bari one that's any good. My perfect trip would be two nights Olifantsrus, then three at each of the others. Okaukuejo isn't a very nice campsite but the game at the waterhole at the camp is brilliant, also at Nebrowni nearby. Halali is the nicest campsite and also has a superb waterhole right at the camp for Africa for viewing even when the camp gates are closed. Namutoni campsite is Ok but there are lots of good drives and waterholes there. Keep watching the blog, I have a post about the best Etosha waterholes coming up in about a month's time.

Reply
Jessica
17/9/2017 09:22:13 am

Thanks for reponding so quickly! I will keep an eye on your blog!
We've got three weeks in Namibia and would like to stay for six nights in Etosha. It will be hard to make a plan about how many nights at what campside, so I'll hope your blog will help ;)

Laurie Moult
29/1/2018 10:30:38 am

Hi Roxanne
We are planning a weeks camping trip from Windhoek to Etosha in March and are disappointed with reports of the condition of park camping sites. Olifantsrus sounds like it is fabulous but the others have had such poor reviews of late. What would you recommend - we would prefer to be in the park rather than drive in daily, but for basic amenities this might be necessary - or not??
Would appreciate your advice
Thanks
Laurie

Reply
Roxanne
29/1/2018 02:37:37 pm

Hi Laurie, Olifantsrus is fabulous but the game around there isn't wonderful. Okaukuejo campsite can be a nightmare because it's often crowded but it's still worth a night or two to spend time at the waterhole at night. My favourite camp for camping is Halali; it's not usually as busy as the rest and also has a fabulous waterhole where you can spend time at night. Namutoni camp is small and the ablutions get a bit crowded when there's a big overlander trip in camp, but it's still nice to spend a night or two to see the fort. You will get basic amenities in all the Etosha camps, but when they're crowded they can take strain (I heard of ablution flooding at Okaukuejo over the Dec/Jan holidays, for instance). But we've been to Etosha about 30 times (last time in 2016) and never found it unbearable when you weigh it up against the joy of being inside the park. The in-camp waterholes at Okaukuejo and Halalai are magnificent (and there's also one at Namutoni). Hope this answers your question?

Reply
Laurie Moult
29/1/2018 04:16:57 pm

Thanks Roxanne
I appreciate your opinion and will let you know what we find!

Mattia
26/2/2018 01:28:48 pm

Dear Roxanne,

I have just discovered this blog and the very useful inf on this page. Congratulations!

I am organizing a self-driven tour in Namibia for September/October.

We have planned to spend 4 nights in Etosha park. We are coming from Damarland and will then continue to the East up to Caprivi strip.

I would need your kind advise for the lodging to enjoy the most of Etosha:

I have the choice between doing 1 night in Olifantrus and 1 in Halali vs. 1 nigth in Eotsha Village and 1 in Okaukuejo. I have booking offers for both options so I can really pick the best one.

First option is camping, the second is lodges.

I have couple of concerns with the first option and Olifantrus…is the road to get there from Damarland much longer? How long is from there till central Etosha? And, as I have read that beside the waterhole at the camping there are not too many animals around, is such trip worth the tour in the drying season?

Oppositely I am tempted to stay in Olifantrus by the fact that the area seems to be the less tourist one. And the most “real”. So maybe the one offering them ost unique experience...

Could you please give me your kind advise? What would be the best option to enjoy Etosha in that period?

For your info we will then stay 2 nights in Onguma camping and goal is to spend time in Etosha also from the East.

Thanks in advance for your answer.

Reply
Roxanne
26/2/2018 01:44:09 pm

Hi Mattia, Olifantsrus is nicer camping than anywhere else inside Etosha but there are fewer animals in that part of the park, so you need to decide which is more important to you. From Olifantsrus to Okaukuejo is about 160km, Okaukuejo to Namatoni/Onguma is about 150km, but bear in mind that speed limit is 50km/h so it's a long trip.

Reply
Mattia
26/2/2018 02:33:44 pm

Hi Roxanne,

Thanks a lot for your extreme rapidly answer. Really appreciated.

You confirmed my feelings that it may be a long drive...so I think we will select the other option, take the time to rest a little bit and enjoy more "confort" in a lodge and finally skip that side of the park. We will in fact be driving many kilometers the days before and will then have a longer road up to the North-East.

Best regards,

Mattia

Hennie Hugo
28/7/2018 01:29:06 pm

Hello Roxanne

Thanks for such an informative website and blog. It is really very good.

We are planning a trip to Victoria Falls and then back to Cape Town through Namibia.

Just read about Olifantsrus campsite.

Could you perhaps recommend a route from Ondangwa to Olifantsrus. I see that you mention the Galton gate.

Is that perhaps an option?

Thank you very much and keep up the good work!

Kind regards
Hennie

Reply
Roxanne
28/7/2018 02:19:35 pm

Thanks for your compliment, Hennie. Well, if you were coming from Ondangwa and Oshakati, then you'd need to cut south on the C25 towards Kamanjab, which would bring you right past the turnoff to Galton Gate (about 70 or 80km before Kamanjab). I've not travelled that route myself, though, preferring to go from Vic Falls via Rundu and then down the B15 to join with the road to Etosha's Von Lindequist Gate in the east near Namutoni. But that's because I can never get enough of Etosha. If you only wanted to visit Olifantsrus, not the other camps (or were in Ondangwa for some other reason), then the Ondangwa route would make sense. Have a fabulous trip!

Reply
Barbara
17/10/2018 04:31:07 pm

Dear Roxanne,

thank you so much for all the information and details you put in your site, that helps a lot when trying to get a feeling for upcoming travels :-)

We will go to Namibia in three weeks and just got news for new avails at Etosha, so what do think about these camping options for four nights between Damaraland (Doro Nawas) and Divundu:

A) Ethosha Village - Okaukuejo - Halali - Namutoni (currently booked)

B) Olifantrus - Okaukuejo - Halali - Namutoni

Etosha Village is fully paid anyway, so should we book Olifantrus as well and leave the options open depending on the morning in Doro Nawas? What do you think...

Best
Barbara

Reply
Roxanne
22/10/2018 09:00:22 am

The only one of these I've never stayed at, Barbara, is Etosha Village. But if possible I'd definitely try to add Olifantsrus to your itinerary. Minimum two nights to get the most from it. I'm assuming you're camping because of course there are no chalets at Olifantsrus. Etosha Village will give you access to the waterholes around Okaukuejo anyway, so perhaps one night at Okaukuejo is enough, just so you can enjoy the waterhole during the times when the camp gates are closed. Good chance of seeing elephant and black "unicorns" after dark. Have a fab trip, whatever you decide.

Reply
Roxanne
22/10/2018 09:15:47 am

If you only have four nights, perhaps Olifantsrus is a bit far out of your way. Maybe keep it for a longer Etosha trip another time? I want everyone to stay there to experience its wonderful hide, but it's not always practical when days to experience Etosha are limited.

Xavi
13/3/2019 01:11:11 am

Hi Roxanne. 1st of all congralutaions for your blog. I were reading some of your posts for planning my future visit to Etosha next June. I liked so much your "12 ot the best waterholes"!

I will stay 9 nights at Etosha. My first scope is to see animals, so I decided to stay as much nights as possible (9 of my 16 nights in Namibia). Thanks to this post, I decided to add 1 night in Olifantrus. Firstly I was thiking on 2 nights, but due to te animals density finally I gave this night to Okaukuejo. Do you think could be ok?

My route of nights is: 2 Namutomi (entry by Von Lind. G) 3 Halali, 1 Okaukuejo, 1 Olifantrus, 2 Okaukuejo (exit by Anderson G.). Any comments, good route? I make Okaukuejo-Olifantrus and return to Okaukuejo as I want to exit by Anderson Gate.

Another question is, night temperatures in June could be freezing as I read, specially when sleeping in a Hilux roof tent. I think it will be hard!

You say that you can request a Olifantrus campsite with power when booking, but I didn's see the option when booking by NWR web. What is the way? Is it possible to request by email ?

As you say, isn't possible to request for a specific campsite in Etosha camps. There 's no way to contact camps and request? I made this in Kruger.... Is there any web / link to check the campsites maps of each camp?

Many thanks in advance!!

Xavi

Reply
Roxanne
13/3/2019 03:55:45 pm

Glad the blog posts have been helpful. Your itinerary sounds good, Xavi. When we book we usually phone the booking office (the Cape Town office is particularly helpful) and you get to say you want a site with power at that point. I've never booked on the web, so I can't comment on that.

As for pre-booking a specific site, I've never managed to get that right with NWR. If you get to the camp fairly early and you really don't like the allocated spot, there is a chance to change if you complain (we did that once at Okaukuejo). But if you arrive after most other campers are already on their sites it's impossible to change. Halali isn't as busy so there's plenty to choose from.

Wishing you a wonderful trip. Yes, June is cold at night in a tent but perfectly survivable with a decent sleeping bag . The days can be hot.

Reply
Xavi
14/3/2019 01:18:19 am

Thanks Roxanne.

Ok, as I booked via web, I should contact them if I want any specific site. I will try with reservations@nwr.com.na.

Our Hilux will have a duvet provided, but we will take an additional sleeping bag from home.

Thanks for the information!

Ben
4/12/2019 04:55:49 am

Hi, I'll be travelling to Namibia next year end-April to early-May. I only got 4 days/3 nights at Etosha Park. I will be heading there from Windhoek and thereafter, leave the park to Spitzkoppe. Initially I wanted to do 1 night at Halali and 2 nights at Okaukuejo, but unfortunately Okaukuejo does not have vacancy on the last night, now I was thinking 2 nights at Okaukuejo and 1 night at Olifantsrus. What do you think of this arrangement? Also, the reason I wanted Okaukuejo on the last night initially because it was the nearest to Spitzkoppe campsite.

Reply
Roxanne
4/12/2019 07:33:35 am

Hey Ben, Olifantsrus would put you even further away from Spitzkoppe. If that's your biggest concern, why not spend your last night at Etosha Safari Camp, which is about 10km south of Okakuejo? See more about it here: https://www.roxannereid.co.za/blog/etosha-safari-camps-energetic-township-vibe It's a much nicer campsite than Okaukuejo, though of course it doesn't have that wonderful waterhole.

Reply
Ben
4/12/2019 07:47:06 am

Wow, you reply really fast! Anyway, I checked that from Olifantsrus is maybe additionalan hour drive from Okaukuejo to Spitzkoppe. I'm willing to do that. But generally what do you think about spending 2 nights at Okaukuejo and 1 night at Olifantsrus? Or it would be better to do 1 night at Halali, 1 night at Okaukuejo and 1 night at Olifantsrus or 1 night at Okaukuejo and 2 nights at Olifantsrus?

Thanks!!

Roxanne
7/12/2019 06:40:59 am

I think you're being very optimistic about the time it will take you from Olifantsrus to Spitzkoppe. Olifantsrus to Galton Gate is about 60km (speed limit in the park 50kph) and then there's still the road to Kamanjab, etc. Or if you go back via Okaukuejo it's about 75km (90min) through the park before you can get onto the B1. Remember that gravel roads in Namibia are slow. I love Halali, which has an excellent in-camp waterhole, so I wouldn't miss that. Check our my guide to Etosha for more here: https://www.roxannereid.co.za/blog/etosha-national-park-the-ultimate-guide

Eva link
21/3/2020 10:25:48 am

Fantastic review; camping is something I have only started to do in recent years and have been enjoying it very much. Namibia is one of my absolute bucket list destinations, haven't had the chance to get there yet and I hope to be able to do that in the future. Would definitely consider staying at Olifantsrus!

Reply
Roxanne
21/3/2020 01:43:30 pm

Ah, Eva, don't put off a visit to Namibia for too long. It's awesome. And camping here in Etosha is the most wonderful experience, given that some of the other camps that have chalets as well are big and very busy in the June to August high season.

Reply
Caroline link
21/3/2020 10:28:32 am

Namibia has been on my list of places to go for ages. Hopefully I will get a change to go next year and to include this place! Thanks for sharing.

Reply
Roxanne
21/3/2020 01:41:12 pm

Namibia won't disappoint you, Caroline. It's one of my top favourite countries to visit, so diverse and beautiful.

Reply
Michel Rademaker
25/6/2020 12:17:09 pm

Hi Roxanne,

Just 2 simple questions about the hide:

I understand there is glass between you and the animals on the downstairs section, is this a problem with photography or not? And is there also glass on the upstairs section?

Thanks in advance.

Michel Rademaker

Reply
Roxanne
25/6/2020 01:56:33 pm

Michel, the glass downstairs isn't ideal for professional photography but fine for observation and for memory photos. There's no glass upstairs, jut shutters you open so there's nothing between you and the wildlife.

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