By Roxanne Reid
We had stayed at Selinda Camp, Linyanti, before but now it had been re-imagined and rebuilt so it was like visiting a completely different camp. It lies in a remote wilderness on the Selinda Reserve, surrounded by big game and imbued with the authentic spirit of Africa. Here’s why to include it on your Botswana safari.
We had stayed at Selinda Camp, Linyanti, before but now it had been re-imagined and rebuilt so it was like visiting a completely different camp. It lies in a remote wilderness on the Selinda Reserve, surrounded by big game and imbued with the authentic spirit of Africa. Here’s why to include it on your Botswana safari.
We arrived from the sandy airstrip by boat along the Selinda Spillway, enjoying an abundance of water lilies, jacanas, fish-eagles and pygmy geese along the way, not to mention some hippos blinking at us from the surface of the water and an elephant feeding on soft reeds at the edge.
As we moored at the jetty, staff gathered on the steps of the main area and burst into song to welcome us. It’s hard not to feel elated by music, so our visit kicked off on a high note.
As we moored at the jetty, staff gathered on the steps of the main area and burst into song to welcome us. It’s hard not to feel elated by music, so our visit kicked off on a high note.
Your first view of Selinda Camp as you arrive by boat
Main area
The new Selinda Camp is gorgeous. Still on the same footprint as the old camp, it stands on a small island on the northern side of the Zibadiaja lagoon. It's surrounded by large feverberry trees and looks out over a big flood plain in the 130 000-hectare Selinda Reserve.
The new Selinda Camp is gorgeous. Still on the same footprint as the old camp, it stands on a small island on the northern side of the Zibadiaja lagoon. It's surrounded by large feverberry trees and looks out over a big flood plain in the 130 000-hectare Selinda Reserve.
Classic safari spaces
In the main lounge and dining area, there are leather couches in conversation pods, a fire pit area for cosy evenings, and a lower deck facing the water channel with a blue and cream colour scheme that echoes the surrounding water and sky. A paint-decorated mokoro here and there, carved Zanzibar doors, chests, tables and giant wooden pillars are collected under a high thatched roof. The lack of walls and doors makes it all feel like a natural extension of the environment. Long, irregular ‘eyelashes’ of thatching grass soften the lines of the roof and make it look at one with the surrounding grass and reeds.
This sunken deck makes a perfect spot for afternoon tea
The camp has a classic safari feel, but there are high-tech touches too, like an electronically controlled insect screen in the dining area, a climate-controlled wine cellar, an interactive show kitchen and some of the hottest new solar battery technology behind the scenes.
If you’re keen on sustainability – and you should be – you’ll be pleased to know that like all Great Plains Conservation camps across Botswana, Kenya and Zimbabwe, solar energy isn’t where care for the planet stops at Selinda. There’s also no single-use plastic, you get a refillable metal water bottle, and if the camp was dismantled tomorrow there’d be no trace of it within a few months.
If you’re keen on sustainability – and you should be – you’ll be pleased to know that like all Great Plains Conservation camps across Botswana, Kenya and Zimbabwe, solar energy isn’t where care for the planet stops at Selinda. There’s also no single-use plastic, you get a refillable metal water bottle, and if the camp was dismantled tomorrow there’d be no trace of it within a few months.
Selina Camp looks out over the Selinda Spillway
The suite
Selinda now has just three roomy tented suites (and a completely separate four-person villa that has its own staff and game drive vehicle). There’s a high thatched roof over the tent to keep it cool, a large wood-floored bedroom and dressing area with thick rugs, and a bathroom that includes a shower and freestanding copper bath with a view.
Selinda now has just three roomy tented suites (and a completely separate four-person villa that has its own staff and game drive vehicle). There’s a high thatched roof over the tent to keep it cool, a large wood-floored bedroom and dressing area with thick rugs, and a bathroom that includes a shower and freestanding copper bath with a view.
Looking across the bed to the Zanzibar door that leads to the deck
Outside, a generous private deck with pool and sofa makes a cool place to relax. There’s an exercise bike for those who want to work off some of the superb food and hours of sitting in a game drive vehicle. Intricate Zanzibar doors, each of them unique, stand at the entrance to the main tent and the bathroom. For hot days, the tent’s aircon and fan are welcome, and there’s a well-stocked mini bar and tea station too.
Double copper basins in the bathroom
The ultimate luxury - a deep copper bath with a view
If you’re keen on photography but limited by the amount of equipment you can bring on a small plane from Maun or Kasane, you’ll be pleased to know that each unit comes with its own pro Canon 5D Mark IV camera for you to use during your visit. It has two prime lenses – a 24-105mm and a 100-400mm – and 1.4 converter.
Afternoon game drive
Our first game drive was our favourite kind, just the guide and the two of us – our safari mates not having arrived yet. It’s not that we’re unsociable, just that a game drive is a hard place to make everyone happy. We love stopping for birds, which annoys some lion-or-nothing types. I don’t particularly enjoy chatting on a game drive, unless it’s with the guide and it’s about the area and its wildlife. And we don’t mind staying out for five or six hours and stopping to watch ‘minor’ animals going about their business if the light is particularly good for photography. All of this is hard to do if your level of interest doesn’t align with that of others in the game vehicle.
Afternoon game drive
Our first game drive was our favourite kind, just the guide and the two of us – our safari mates not having arrived yet. It’s not that we’re unsociable, just that a game drive is a hard place to make everyone happy. We love stopping for birds, which annoys some lion-or-nothing types. I don’t particularly enjoy chatting on a game drive, unless it’s with the guide and it’s about the area and its wildlife. And we don’t mind staying out for five or six hours and stopping to watch ‘minor’ animals going about their business if the light is particularly good for photography. All of this is hard to do if your level of interest doesn’t align with that of others in the game vehicle.
Roan antelope
We spotted roans in the late afternoon sunlight, a group of Selinda’s healthy population of giraffes, and elephants munching on a rain tree, some small calves in tow.
We stopped for a G&T and to savour the pink and blue layered sky, a palm tree reflected in the water of the channel. Because we were talking quietly, we could hear the doublebanded sandgrouse calling as they flew overhead; we could enjoy a herd of elephants that came to drink just 20 metres from us, treating us as part of the natural scenery. These are some of Africa’s most magical moments.
We stopped for a G&T and to savour the pink and blue layered sky, a palm tree reflected in the water of the channel. Because we were talking quietly, we could hear the doublebanded sandgrouse calling as they flew overhead; we could enjoy a herd of elephants that came to drink just 20 metres from us, treating us as part of the natural scenery. These are some of Africa’s most magical moments.
Guide Rueben Mojoo preparing sundowners
A perfect sundowner view spot
After dark, we expected to return to camp for dinner, but nature had other plans; we found a pride of ten lions on the move through the bush. Although it was pitch dark, we followed them for a while, keeping track with the spotlight with its red filter that’s less intrusive, less disruptive for the animals. The lions, including some medium-sized cubs, didn’t seem to mind.
Morning game drives
A baboon in a palm tree with a pink sky at dawn, roan antelope in the long yellow grass, a fish-eagle calling from a tree, the smell of wild sage as you brush past with the vehicle – this is the stuff safaris are made of.
A clutch of ostriches posed like models on bone dry grass – right in the centre of what guide Rueben Mojoo said was the Linyanti Swamp. ‘This time last year, all that was full of water,’ he said, giving a graphic idea of the severity of the drought in southern Africa this year. That said, the Linyanti still has plenty of water, just a lot less than usual.
Next to another water channel, we discovered a duo of two-year-old lionesses defending a buffalo kill from hooded vultures that landed in the grass not far away. One lioness just kept a beady eye, but the other gave chase. The vultures took clumsily to the air but soon settled again, anxious not to miss out on a free meal.
Morning game drives
A baboon in a palm tree with a pink sky at dawn, roan antelope in the long yellow grass, a fish-eagle calling from a tree, the smell of wild sage as you brush past with the vehicle – this is the stuff safaris are made of.
A clutch of ostriches posed like models on bone dry grass – right in the centre of what guide Rueben Mojoo said was the Linyanti Swamp. ‘This time last year, all that was full of water,’ he said, giving a graphic idea of the severity of the drought in southern Africa this year. That said, the Linyanti still has plenty of water, just a lot less than usual.
Next to another water channel, we discovered a duo of two-year-old lionesses defending a buffalo kill from hooded vultures that landed in the grass not far away. One lioness just kept a beady eye, but the other gave chase. The vultures took clumsily to the air but soon settled again, anxious not to miss out on a free meal.
Lioness with buffalo kill
The lions had evidently eaten well and there was just a rib cage and head left. So they took it in turns to claim the carcass, worrying at the tough skin. We were so close we could hear the snap of tendons, the crunch of bone and the sound of tongues lapping water from the marshy area a few metres away.
Best of all was the moment these youngsters started chasing each other and play fighting. Crouch, chase and attack; leap, wrestle and run away. The cycle repeated on a loop for 15-20 minutes before they plopped down in the reeds for a rest.
Another highlight was a breeding herd of about 20 elephants drinking at a patch of water. After a while some of them began snatching up trunkfuls of sand to throw over their wet bodies to form a protective coating.
Best of all was the moment these youngsters started chasing each other and play fighting. Crouch, chase and attack; leap, wrestle and run away. The cycle repeated on a loop for 15-20 minutes before they plopped down in the reeds for a rest.
Another highlight was a breeding herd of about 20 elephants drinking at a patch of water. After a while some of them began snatching up trunkfuls of sand to throw over their wet bodies to form a protective coating.
Elephants with calves provide lots of entertainment
Known as the Linyanti Swamp or Linyanti Marsh, this is an area of water channels where you shouldn’t be surprised to see water birds like African jacanas and African fish-eagles, wattled cranes, saddlebill storks and African skimmers. We even saw a flock of pelicans flying in formation overhead.
On our second morning, we found a herd of 15 sable antelope, including tiny calves and an impressive dominant bull testing one of the female’s urine to see if she was ready for mating. There are hormones in her urine that tell him everything he needs to know. Apparently the news was negative because he moved on. ‘A male sable holds a territory and all females in that territory belong to him,’ Rueben explained. ‘With an impala, it’s different. The male has a harem and he owns the females, no matter where they are.’
On our second morning, we found a herd of 15 sable antelope, including tiny calves and an impressive dominant bull testing one of the female’s urine to see if she was ready for mating. There are hormones in her urine that tell him everything he needs to know. Apparently the news was negative because he moved on. ‘A male sable holds a territory and all females in that territory belong to him,’ Rueben explained. ‘With an impala, it’s different. The male has a harem and he owns the females, no matter where they are.’
Sable antelope: the lighter brown female and darker male with his scimitar-shaped horns behind her
We watched a leopard walk through the bushes in search of a shady place to rest for the day. ‘There are more than 90 species the leopard preys on,’ said Rueben. ‘It can be as small as a mouse or as big as a kudu. Here in the Linyanti and near the Selinda Spillway their prey is largely impala, warthog and guinea fowl.’
The leopard found a shady spot and we watched her snooze, always alert, her eyebrows and whiskers twitching, the occasional half-open eye to keep watch, a quick paw chasing away bees. After about 40 minutes we had to leave her to get to the airstrip in time to catch our small plane back to Maun.
The leopard found a shady spot and we watched her snooze, always alert, her eyebrows and whiskers twitching, the occasional half-open eye to keep watch, a quick paw chasing away bees. After about 40 minutes we had to leave her to get to the airstrip in time to catch our small plane back to Maun.
Leopard resting in the shade
But Selinda had one more treat in store for us – a lioness with a warthog kill stashed under a bush and four cubs with her in a clearing. At four to five months old they hadn’t yet grown into their massive paws. They were cute and curious, watching us with as much interest as we watched them, then biting mom’s tail, wrestling and falling over each other.
Lion cub posing for the camera
Things to do at Selinda, Linyanti
1. Don’t miss the game drives
If you’ve come to Selinda and don’t want to go out on a game drive, there’s something wrong with you. Wildlife in the area is abundant, with everything from elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, wild dog and hyena to giraffe, zebra and antelope like sable, roan and red lechwe. Your guide has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the wildlife and environment and will be only too happy to share them with you. (For more about our game drives at Selinda, see the section above.)
2. Go on a night drive
A night drive will greatly improve your chances of seeing nocturnal/crepuscular species like hyena, lion, leopard, honey badger, bat-eared fox, African wild cat, aardvark and porcupine, as well as owls. Head out in the game drive vehicle with your guide after an early supper. He’ll use his knowledge and spotlight to find something you’re unlikely to see during the day. You’ll return to camp ready to turn in and sleep like a log.
3. Take a boat trip on the Selinda Spillway
1. Don’t miss the game drives
If you’ve come to Selinda and don’t want to go out on a game drive, there’s something wrong with you. Wildlife in the area is abundant, with everything from elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, wild dog and hyena to giraffe, zebra and antelope like sable, roan and red lechwe. Your guide has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the wildlife and environment and will be only too happy to share them with you. (For more about our game drives at Selinda, see the section above.)
2. Go on a night drive
A night drive will greatly improve your chances of seeing nocturnal/crepuscular species like hyena, lion, leopard, honey badger, bat-eared fox, African wild cat, aardvark and porcupine, as well as owls. Head out in the game drive vehicle with your guide after an early supper. He’ll use his knowledge and spotlight to find something you’re unlikely to see during the day. You’ll return to camp ready to turn in and sleep like a log.
3. Take a boat trip on the Selinda Spillway
African fish-eagle
If you can, don’t miss a putter up the water channels at Selinda for a different perspective from what you get on a game drive. From the water, you’ll likely see hippos, perhaps elephant and maybe even buffalo drinking, as well as antelope like red lechwe. Bird life along the water is prolific, with a good chance of spotting jacana, kingfishers, fish-eagle and other water birds. The water lilies bobbing on the surface are also beautiful. (The availability of boating obviously depends on water levels at Selinda at the time when you visit.)
4. Do a guided bush walk
If you like getting close to nature, seeing tracks and signs and small creatures, learning about plants and their uses as food and medicine, you’ll enjoy a bush walk with your guide. Slather on the sunscreen, take a good hat and your binos and experience the bush with all five of your senses. If the wind is right, you may even get close to big animals like elephants on foot.
5. Take a dip in the private pool on your deck
4. Do a guided bush walk
If you like getting close to nature, seeing tracks and signs and small creatures, learning about plants and their uses as food and medicine, you’ll enjoy a bush walk with your guide. Slather on the sunscreen, take a good hat and your binos and experience the bush with all five of your senses. If the wind is right, you may even get close to big animals like elephants on foot.
5. Take a dip in the private pool on your deck
The private pool on your deck
If you get back from your game drive hot and dusty, enjoy a dip in the private pool on the deck of your suite, with an unhindered view of the surrounding bush. Or go skinny dipping in the purple-lit pool on a sticky summer’s evening; just keep the deck lights on for safety.
6. Immerse yourself in nature at camp
Take time out and sit quietly on your deck or on one of the comfy couches in the main area to listen to hippos honking and baboons barking, the call of rebilled spurfowl, arrow-marked babblers and fish-eagles. We saw a barred owl in camp, and there are more than 200 bird species in the area. Giraffe came to welcome us when we arrived and on our last morning, with a pink sunrise in the background, ten elephants with two tiny calves walked in front of our tent towards the water channel. If being immersed in nature appeals to you, the unfenced Selinda Camp will provide you with soul food. After dark, don’t walk alone without your guide to keep a lookout for wildlife on the paths.
7. Eat restaurant quality meals
6. Immerse yourself in nature at camp
Take time out and sit quietly on your deck or on one of the comfy couches in the main area to listen to hippos honking and baboons barking, the call of rebilled spurfowl, arrow-marked babblers and fish-eagles. We saw a barred owl in camp, and there are more than 200 bird species in the area. Giraffe came to welcome us when we arrived and on our last morning, with a pink sunrise in the background, ten elephants with two tiny calves walked in front of our tent towards the water channel. If being immersed in nature appeals to you, the unfenced Selinda Camp will provide you with soul food. After dark, don’t walk alone without your guide to keep a lookout for wildlife on the paths.
7. Eat restaurant quality meals
Table set for dinner by candlelight
Selinda serves up quality, upmarket food that you might expect to find in a top Cape Town or Franschhoek restaurant rather than in the middle of the bundu. In fact, executive chef Tiaan van Greunen’s menus are inspired by his background in well known restaurants. A four-course menu might include lamb spring rolls, deep fried gnocchi and luscious salmon, with butternut cheesecake and cinnamon macaron for dessert. Breakfast and lunch spreads are fresh, colourful and delicious, with an eye to presentation as well as taste. If you still have a tiny corner of space, there’s high tea before your game drive and snacks with your sundowners too.
A brand new interactive show kitchen at Selinda means you can explore behind the scenes to see how its superb food is created, or join a demo and tasting experience in the bar area.
A brand new interactive show kitchen at Selinda means you can explore behind the scenes to see how its superb food is created, or join a demo and tasting experience in the bar area.
Chefs Matshidiso Ngoreng, Siyakhepi Moemedi and Luvinda Mubita
8. Treat yourself at the spa
Selinda Camp now has a spa and wellness centre where therapist Oteng Mimi Macha offers massages, facials, manicures, pedicures and holistic signature treatments that engage all five senses. If you’re feeling stressed or need to relax and unwind after a long game drive, you’re going to love this addition to the Selinda experience.
9. Visit the wine cellar
Selinda Camp now has a spa and wellness centre where therapist Oteng Mimi Macha offers massages, facials, manicures, pedicures and holistic signature treatments that engage all five senses. If you’re feeling stressed or need to relax and unwind after a long game drive, you’re going to love this addition to the Selinda experience.
9. Visit the wine cellar
Wine cellar
If you’re a wine aficionado or even just a wine lover, ask to visit Selinda’s beautiful wine cellar. Breathe in the aroma, feel the cool, and feast your eyes on the excellent collection of quality wines. Choose something special to accompany your dinner. Although meals in the main dining area are usually communal (just six to eight people), if you prefer you can ask for a private dinner in the wine cellar, or even on the deck of your suite.
10. Dream up your own activity
The staff at Selinda are there to make you happy, so if you dream up an activity – within reason, obviously – they will try to make it happen. Want to go tracking? They’ll make it happen. Enjoy a back massage on the deck of your suite? Try some catch-and-release fishing? Have drinks on the jetty at sunset? As long as it’s safe, if you dream it they’ll make it come true.
10. Dream up your own activity
The staff at Selinda are there to make you happy, so if you dream up an activity – within reason, obviously – they will try to make it happen. Want to go tracking? They’ll make it happen. Enjoy a back massage on the deck of your suite? Try some catch-and-release fishing? Have drinks on the jetty at sunset? As long as it’s safe, if you dream it they’ll make it come true.
Friendly staff (from left): Catherine Makosha, Oteng Mimi Macha, Mbaita Machira and Clara Mapini
Note: We were guests of Selinda Camp for two nights, but I had free rein to write what I chose. We paid for all travel costs.
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
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