Chobe River Camp in Zambezi region, Namibia: things to do

By Roxanne Reid
We were enjoying sundowners in the flood plain of the Chobe River, with a huge herd of elephants drinking on the other side of the river. Although we were in Namibia, they were in Botswana’s Chobe National Park. It was a timeless moment to hold in our hearts forever. Discover Chobe River Camp in Zambezi region, Namibia, and things to do there.

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The Chobe River forms a boundary between Botswana’s Chobe National Park and Namibia’s Zambezi region (formerly known as the Caprivi). The area is renowned for its superb elephant and buffalo sightings, as well as other big game. Our game drive in an open vehicle from Chobe River Camp had crossed the flood plain and hugged the river, where we saw zebras, giraffes, a big group of impalas, and a few waterbuck with their white-circled bums.

​A croc sunned itself next to the river and oxpeckers stabbed for food on cows. The Namibian side is communal land rather than national park and the locals use the flood plain to graze their cattle, which seem to mix happily with the wildlife.

Malachite kingfisher

We spotted water monitors, from small to huge, each sunning itself on the riverbank. A hippo snuffled on the surface of the water. An African fish-eagle settled on the ground next to the river, another swooped for a fish but missed. There were squacco herons, goliath herons, open-bill storks and a jewel-coloured malachite kingfisher.

I was admiring some baobab trees in Botswana when we saw about 400 buffalo coming down to the river to drink in a straggly line of dust. A trio of kudu joined in further downstream. It was late May and the river was fairly narrow so all sightings on the Botswana side were quite close. Once the hoped-for rains come again in August to January, the river broadens and the flood plains fill.

Water monitor

​As the sun started to sink, guide Mathias Ndana had stopped for drinks, as one does on a wildlife safari. That’s how we experienced that magical moment with the elephants. First, five elephants joined us just across the river. We watched them with excitement for about ten minutes. Then more arrived in a swirl of dust, appearing one by one from over the ridge until there were 50 elephants just 20m from us across the channel and more of them upstream. A small calf had a full immersion swim, little trunk held high like a snorkel. The more grown-up calves just drank and stomped about in the water.

We were so enthralled with the magic of the elephants that the sun sank almost unnoticed below the horizon.

A small group of about 70 elephants we watched while we had sundowners

Chobe River Camp
Although Chobe River Camp stretches out along the Chobe River just 4km from the Ngoma border post into Botswana, it’s officially in Namibia’s north-eastern Zambezi region, which is a wonderful watery world of rivers that include the Kavango, Kwando, Chobe and Zambezi. It's a refreshing change from Namibia’s desert areas further west and south.

Chobe River Camp from the air (photo: The Gondwana Collection)

In my mind, it’s the closest thing to the Okavango Delta here in Namibia – a land of water birds and water lilies, of men who fish from a traditional mokoro (dug-out canoe), which here in Namibia is called a mikolo, of crimson sunrises and sunsets, of unspoilt wildness. It’s the only place in Namibia where you’re likely to see signs warning of hippos and crocs.
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The main area
To welcome you at the entrance to the camp are two almost life-size welded metal hippos. The main area – constructed of mopani poles and canvas – consists of a double-volume reception area, lounge and bar, as well as a dining room where we enjoyed fresh fruit, delicious omelettes and lemon poppy seed muffins for breakfast. 

The main reception, dining, lounge and bar area

The breakfast area very early in the morning

All of the main reception areas overlook the river so we found it best to keep our binos with us at all times so as not to miss any wildlife sightings.

There’s a sheltered pool area with loungers and a view of the river, a shaded deck that juts out over the river, and a bush lapa that is the setting for dinners romantically lit by firelight and paraffin lamps, with blankets thrown over the back of your safari chairs in case you get chilly. ​

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The bar and lounge is a good hangout before supper. Note the chairs on the left overlooking the river

The tents
The Meru-style tented rooms are set on stilts with a small veranda outside. Inside is a bedroom with the untraditional colour scheme of lime green and purple, with a dressing area and bathroom behind. An evaporative air cooler cools things down when it’s hot in the middle of the day – even on the cusp of winter when we visited. There’s a small desk and tea station in one corner and an open wardrobe in another. Mosquito nets around the beds will be welcome in summer.

The tent with its vibrant colour scheme

Tents at sunrise

​By far my favourite spot was the tent’s small stoep with its safari chairs and view of the sweep of the Chobe River. The water level was low when we visited, with a huge ‘island’ in the middle between two narrow channels, one on the Namibian side, the other on the Botswana side. During the rainy season when the river overflows onto the flood plain, the whole area will look very different. 

Wooden stairs lead to the stoep and entrance to each tent

After a night in which the tent creaked and flapped in a sudden wind, we woke to the trumpeting of elephants and calls of zebra and spotted hyena. Warmly dressed, we sat on the stoep and listened to the early morning call of coucals, an African fish-eagle and some baboons. We watched the sun rise red through the acacia trees and reflect on water rippling in the breeze. After breakfast we watched local fishermen poling a mikolo past our tent. 

Just a note for those of you who are committed to camping for whatever reason, Chobe River Camp also has a small campsite along the river’s edge. Campers are welcome to use facilities like the pool and restaurant.

Chobe River Camp in Namibia lies along the Chobe River, facing Chobe National Park in Botswana

Things to do at Chobe River Camp
1. Go on a Chobe National Park safari
Chobe River Camp is just 4km away from the Ngoma border into Botswana and the Chobe National Park, so it makes an ideal half- or full-day safari. Ask about this at reception, or do it as a self-drive. Some of the animals you can expect to see in this western part of Chobe include big elephant and buffalo herds, giraffe, zebra, sable and other antelope. You may be lucky to see spotted hyena, lion or leopard, and you’ll certainly meet a few of the unusual big baobab trees. (Just make sure you take your passport and have a visa if you need one for Botswana.)

2. Take a day trip to Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

If you’ve always wanted to see the Victoria Falls – and why wouldn’t you? – this is a perfect opportunity. The Victoria Falls UNESCO World Heritage Site is only 150km away. Ask about this trip at reception for a chance to explore the Falls and surrounding natural rainforest on foot. The area is home to some 400 species of mammals and birds. The Main Falls is the highest, widest sheet of continually falling water in the world. If you plan ahead, you may even have time to spike your adrenalin by doing the 111m bungy jump into the river gorge from a railway bridge built in 1905. (Make sure you take your passport and have a visa if you need one for Botswana and/or Zimbabwe.)

3. Enjoy a nature drive on the Namibian side of the Chobe River

Burchell's zebras on the flood plain

You can also climb into an open 4x4 safari vehicle to go on a guided nature drive in the conservancy on the Namibian side of the Chobe River, as we did. Although the first 20 minutes or so are through flood plain and tall grass, past communal villages, once you get near to the river you’re likely to see most of the same animals as on the Botswana side of the famous Chobe National Park. Think giraffe, zebra, buffalo, elephant, waterbuck, hippo, croc, or even spotted hyena and lion.

4. Hop on a Chobe River cruise
A Chobe River cruise in a motor boat boat is a chance to get a different perspective of the surrounding wildlife from what you get on a game drive. See elephant, buffalo, hippo, crocodile and other big game along the river edges and revel in the birdlife of the area, with African fish-eagle, African jacana, bee-eaters, kingfishers and more. Choose between an early morning cruise or a sundowner cruise to get beautiful views of the sun setting over the river.

5. Go fishing

Gone fishing

Fishing along the Chobe River isn’t of the big-game tiger-fishing type that you find on the Zambezi River not far away, but if you love the feel of a fishing rod in your hand and the serenity of being on a boat on the river, go catch-and-release fishing for river pike.

6. Enjoy a guided canoe trip
Depending on water levels and the presence/absence of hippo in the area at the time when you visit, go with a guide on a canoe trail along the river. Discover a diversity of birdlife and enjoy the gentle rhythm of your oars dipping into the water. The silence of the canoes allows you to get close to birds for great photo opportunities, perhaps even to elephants or buffalos along the shoreline.

7. Go bird-watching

The white-browed coucal is just one of numerous birds you can spot in the area

Spend time walking around the camp’s grounds or along the river and you should see birds like herons, bee-eaters, jacana, coucal, fish-eagle, red-billed buffalo weaver, arrow-marked babbler, and more. And don’t forget to keep your eye on the reeds along the edge of the river; you may even catch sight of an otter or two.

8. Join a guide for a bush walk
If you enjoy walking and getting acquainted with nature at close range, do a guided walking safari when you can learn about the animals, birds and plants of the area, as well as some of the conservation and community issues. Feel the warmth of the sun, smell the dust and hear the trumpeting of elephants or the call of the African fish-eagle.

9. Cool off in the camp’s swimming pool

Loungers at the pool have a view of the river, just out of frame on the right

Enjoy a swim in the pool to cool down on a hot summer’s day, or simply relax on a lounger with a book. Here along the Chobe River, even winter days can be hot although it cools down at night. Keep scanning the river to see if you spot any interesting wildlife.

10. Enjoy dinner in the lapa

Soft lighting for dinner in the lapa

Enjoy your evening meal in the lapa, where a fire is lit in a brazier for warmth on cooler nights or simply for atmosphere on warm, sultry evenings. Paraffin lamps add a touch of romance. Pick a table and order a drink from your waiter, then serve yourself from a yummy buffet of starters, mains (there’s always local venison among the choices) and desserts.

11. Spend time on the viewing deck

The viewing deck is a great place to relax or to spot wildlife

Sit on the viewing deck in front of the breakfast and reception area. It juts out over the water to give you a wonderful panorama up and down the river. Keep your binos near at hand for some mammal or bird spotting. Or simply order a cold drink or cup of tea and enjoy the view.

12. Relax on the deck of your tent
Early morning is an ideal time to sit in a safari chair on the stoep of your tent overlooking the Chobe River to watch the world come to life. Make a mug of coffee and have the world to yourself as you watch sunrise paint the sky in a kaleidoscope of colours, hear birds begin to chirp, perhaps even the roar of a lion. It’s a glorious way to begin a day of immersion in nature.

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