Birding safari at Zambezi Mubala Lodge, Zambezi (Caprivi)

​By Roxanne Reid
There are many beautiful lodges in Namibia, but Zambezi Mubala Lodge in the Zambezi region (Caprivi) is one I’ll always remember for being something different. With views of the Zambezi River everywhere you look, it’s reminiscent of lodges further downstream at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and Zambia, with sunsets, boat cruises, fishing and a birding safari to keep you happy.

---

​Say the word Namibia to most people and they conjure pictures of deserts and dead trees, of wide open arid landscapes with mauve mountains in the distance. For sure, this is a part of Namibia, but you haven’t experienced all the country has to offer if you don’t venture further north-east into the Zambezi region (what used to be called Caprivi). Here the landscape is totally different, a mosaic of rivers and flood plains, of water birds and water lilies.

All cabins have a river view

To get to Zambezi Mubala Lodge 40km east of Katimo Mulilo in the far north-east of the Zambezi region, drive to Zambezi Mubala Camp, then load your kit into a boat for a 15-20 minute boat ride downstream to the lodge. Programme your GPS to find Zambezi Mubala Camp, not the lodge, because there’s no through-road to the lodge for guests.

A boat trip along the Zambezi River is always a treat, a chance to see wildlife and enjoy expansive views from the water. This ferry ride goes a bit too fast to really spot any birds properly, but there’s plenty time for that later.

Reception and shop

​The lodge
If you love to wrap yourself up in nature and enjoy bird-watching or fishing you’ll be in heaven at Zambezi Mubala Lodge, part of The Gondwana Collection. It’s tucked under tall Natal mahogany, jackalberry, common cluster fig and marula trees on the edge of the river, offering a glut of river views. 

The open-air dining room

The main reception area has a curio shop with a collection of safari hats, bags, scarves and jewellery. Nearby a restaurant is built on a deck under a tall tree, with wicker chairs for a relaxed ambience. The open-air restaurant, bar and pool are all arranged in a line along the riverfront.

Relax in the lounge and bar area that looks out over the river

Your cabin
You get to your cabin by a raised boardwalk under a canopy of trees. ‘Mubala’ is the local Silozi word for colour, and when you see your cabin you’ll realise how appropriate it is. The soft blues and aquamarine tones inside reflect the colours of the water and sky, the bright greens outside echo the surrounding riverine vegetation.

Room with a view

​The architecture and decor are modern, and there are round windows like portholes on the side as if you’re on a boat on the Zambezi. Floor-to-ceiling windows and doors in front give an unobstructed view of the river that dominates the landscape.

Blond wood floors accentuate the feeling of airiness and space, there’s a large bed with mosquito net canopy, armchairs for relaxing, an aircon to deal with hot summer days, an enormous shower and a small kitchenette with fridge, kettle and basin at the back. A wood-and-glass-bead curtain in soft blues and greens hangs in the long window in the dressing area.

Spend time on the deck off your cabin at sunrise and sunset

In front is a private deck with chairs so you can make the most of the river panorama, spotting water birds and hippos from the moment you wake in the morning.

When we stayed at Zambezi Mubala, a small group of Belgians arrived at 19:00 in the evening and were gone by 7:30 the next morning. I don’t know if they’d had a snafu of some kind, but I can’t imagine they got the full benefit of staying here. To do that, you should stay at least two nights so you can participate in one or two activities as well have time to relax and be present in the moment. Only then can you appreciate the privilege of spending time in one of the most beautiful natural areas in Africa.

Birding safari on the river
If you only have time for one activity at Zambezi Mubala Lodge, make it a foray onto the Zambezi River to see how many of the area’s 450 birds you can spot. We went out for just three hours and racked up 50 or more different species, something that might take you the whole day in the more arid parts of the country.

There are lots of birds, like this heron, along the river

​If you’re keen on photography, it can be both rewarding and frustrating. Great when your pilot cuts the engine and floats up to a bird perched on a stick on the bank and it stays there to pose for the camera; maddening when it flies off just before you get ready to click the shutter.

See white-fronted bee-eaters line up in formation outside their holes in the river banks, watch flocks of around 15 water thick-knees strut up and down on a sandbank on the river’s edge then fly off in unison as the boat approaches. Keep your eyes peeled for clawless otters; our pilot Harrison Sikumba pointed out eight of them swimming towards us, but they ducked out of sight before we could get a photo. I’ve never seen more than two at any one time, so it was a thrilling moment nonetheless.

Pilot and bird guide Harrison Sikumba

The whole of the Namibian side of the river is a conservancy area, with Zambia on the other bank. Harrison pointed out a raised platform on the Namibian side where visitors can watch carmine bee-eaters in the spring and summer months. ‘The river level is low at the moment but when it rises and floods the bee-eaters’ holes in the bank, they just go onto the flood plain and make their holes there like rats,’ he explained.

Green-backed heron

​It’s hard to get a sense of the difference between the river levels in winter of a drought year, and summer after good rainfall. But Harrison put it into perspective. ‘When the river is high those reeds in the middle,’ he said, pointing to an island of reeds about that were 3-4m tall, ‘are underwater and the boats drive over them.’

A water monitor dropped from a branch into the water with a plop. A big croc on the sandbank moved with amazing speed and a huge splash into the water. An enormous pod of hippos repeated the manoeuvre in reverse, rushing out of the water – weird behaviour because they usually feel safer in the water. Harrison explained that the water was too shallow for them to dive and submerge completely, which is what they prefer.

Hippos along the Zambezi River

​But the focus was always birds and more birds – from African skimmer, goliath heron and green-backed heron to grey-headed gull, coppery-tailed coucal, a red-billed spurfowl with two fluffy chicks strutting on the shoreline, and an African fish-eagle posing in a tree.

African fish-eagle

And then the most amazing sight. Dozens of carmine bee-eaters flew across the river or settled briefly on the reeds before taking flight again. They flitted very quickly so getting a clear photo was difficult, but it was amazing to see them in May. Usually they arrive in spring and summer, when this part of the Zambezi hosts one of the largest colonies of them in Africa. These stragglers had decided to brave the winter and not migrate, and we were thrilled to see them. Between August and December, they nest in holes on the banks of the Zambezi and fill the air with their bright pink plumage. 

We saw carmine bee-eaters in May, when they shouldn't be here till August/September

Yellow-billed storks on what looked like a white Cape Town beach, open-bill storks, white-faced ducks whistling through the air as they flew low over the water, lots of African jacanas trotting on lily pads with their over-sized toes, even pied, malachite and woodland kingfishers – it was a celebration of birds wherever we looked. Lesser striped swallows darted across the boat beneath the sunroof, as if we were part of nature or didn’t matter.

It was an exhilarating boat cruise, with binos, cameras and our necks working overtime. If birding is your thing, don’t miss time on the water here.

Zambezi Mubala Lodge staff (from left): Mary Kawana, Bronah Mubita, Agnes Sukani, Betty Matengu and Brenda Sibungo

Other things to do at Zambezi Mubala Lodge
Apart from a birding safari on the river (see above), which is our pick of the activities for anyone interesting in birding and photography, there’s lots more to do.

Enjoy a nature walk
Go on a nature walk on the conservancy and let your guide interpret small tracks and signs, tell you about insects, trees, birds and animals you come across. You can also go to see the bird colonies in the river banks.

Don’t miss a sunset/sundowner boat cruise

One of the boats you can go out on along the river

Sunsets on the Zambezi are pretty special and one of the best ways to enjoy them in their full glory is to go on a sundowner cruise on the river. Enjoy drinks and snacks on the boat as you watch a Technicolor sunset unfold over the river.

Go tiger fishing
The Zambezi is renowned as one of the best places to go sport fishing for the mighty tiger fish. You can get a licence and all the tackle you need at the lodge, then spend a few hours of fun pitting your skills against the tigers.

Join a full-day excursion to Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls

From Zambezi Mubala you are about 200km away from the famous Victoria Falls UNESCO World Heritage Site, so it makes sense to include them during your visit. Ask at reception about the long but fun-filled day. The Main Falls is the highest, widest sheet of continually falling water in the world, but there are others worth seeing too. Enjoy a walk to see them and the surrounding natural rainforest with its 400 species of animals. Plan ahead if you want to do the 111m bungy jump from the old railway bridge. (Make sure to take your passport and visa if you need one for Botswana and/or Zimbabwe.)

Go on an excursion to Chobe
Chobe River Camp is only about 75km away from the Ngoma border post into Botswana and the Chobe National Park, so it makes an ideal full-day game drive. Ask about this at reception, or do it as a self-drive option. Some animals you might see in this western part of Chobe are big buffalo and elephant herds, zebra, giraffe and sable antelope. You might even see lion, leopard or spotted hyena, and you’ll certainly be treated to the sight of some of Chobe’s big baobab trees. (Just make sure you take your passport and have a visa if you need one for Botswana.)

Swim in the pool

Pool with a view

Take a dip in the swimming pool to cool off in the middle of the day, or relax on one of the loungers with a book and a cold drink. There’s a great view out over the river and you may hear the call of an African fish-eagle.

Spend time relaxing next to the river
Spend an hour or two in chairs on the deck near the bar. Order a Zambezi colada (pina colada with a twist) and read a book or keep watch for birds like black-collared barbet, Heuglin’s robin, swamp boubou and some of the multitude of birds that live here. You may even spot a water monitor lumbering past.

Sit around the fire pit before dinner
In between the main bar and restaurant decks is a fire pit where you can feel the river sand between your toes and gaze into the dancing flames of a camp fire in the evenings. It’s a chance to meet some of your fellow guests and perhaps even swap stories. If they rave about a particular activity you haven’t done yet, there may still be time to make it happen.

Enjoy a meal on the deck

Dining room with a sunset view

Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner on the wide deck, which is built around poisonwood albizia and jackalberry trees. We found it best to take a pair of binos with us, because there was always some wildlife to see if you stayed alert. Enjoying meals under cover but in the open and close to nature is one of the great pleasures of visiting the Zambezi.

Walk along the boardwalk

Get to your cabin along a boardwalk lined with trees

Boardwalks extend both left and right from the main area, leading to cabins that all face the river. Walk the full length of the boardwalk to see wonderful big trees – some of them helpfully identified for you – and termite mounds that are 2.5 to 3m tall. See what other little creatures you can find, like birds, tree squirrels and vervet monkeys. Don’t be surprised if a green marula fruit hits the boardwalk with a loud bang.

Relax on your private deck
Sit on the private deck of your cabin to enjoy the view out over the river as the heat seeps out of the day and the sun starts the daub the sky with blobs of pink and orange. Or park there in the early morning with a mug of coffee to watch the sunrise and listen to the dawn chorus.

​Like it? Pin this image!

You may also enjoy
Namushasha River Villa: one of Namibia’s superb Zambezi lodges
Chobe river Camp in Zambezi region, Namibia: things to do there
River highlights of north-eastern Namibia

Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za