By Roxanne Reid
Your first sight of the Namushasha River Villa – a floating oasis moored on a channel on the Kwando River in the Zambezi (Caprivi) region of Namibia – will have you gaping in wonder. You’ll be chuffed to stay on this romantic craft surrounded by water channels and water lilies next to a national park. It's one of Namibia’s superb Zambezi lodges.
Your first sight of the Namushasha River Villa – a floating oasis moored on a channel on the Kwando River in the Zambezi (Caprivi) region of Namibia – will have you gaping in wonder. You’ll be chuffed to stay on this romantic craft surrounded by water channels and water lilies next to a national park. It's one of Namibia’s superb Zambezi lodges.
Formerly known as Caprivi, Zambezi Namibia is a captivating area of rivers in the north-eastern part of the country that provides a contrast with the deserts further south and west.
We arrived at the Namushasha River Villa by boat from the jetty at Namushasha River Lodge in the heat of the afternoon. Even in the harsh light it was a beauty.
We arrived at the Namushasha River Villa by boat from the jetty at Namushasha River Lodge in the heat of the afternoon. Even in the harsh light it was a beauty.
The living room with kitchen and bar area behind
Downstairs, a living area consisting of lounge, dining table, bar and kitchen. The kitchen was well stocked with meats, salads, cheeses, bread, fruit and snacks. There were eggs, bacon, cereals, fruit and yoghurt for breakfast, even an ice machine, coffee machine and French press. Sliding glass doors led to a deck with two braais (gas and wood).
Namushasha River Villa is a paradise for nature lovers
My favourite - somewhere to put your safari bag that's not the floor!
Upstairs, a bedroom with its own sliding glass doors and deck that gave wraparound views, and a bathroom with views of the natural environment, even from the loo.
View of the upper deck and river from the bedroom
Even the bathroom at the back has views of the surrounding reeds and wildlife
It was bliss to be tucked into the reeds and surrounded by the peaceful river, with 270-degree views from the floor-to-ceiling glass on three sides. All this glass did make the River Villa hot in the afternoon, but there was an aircon in the bedroom, a fan in the lounge and water misters on the lower deck to cope with that. And I sure wasn’t complaining about the magnificence of uninterrupted views.
Huge sliding doors between the living area and lower deck make you feel immersed in nature
What a joy to relax anywhere on the boat and be able to see water lilies from my window, watch floating crocodiles and curious hippos flick their ears and peer just above the waterline. There were binos for keeping tabs on birds like white-fronted bee-eaters, African jacanas and fish-eagles, or antelope like red lechwe grazing in the Bwabwata National Park on the other side of the river.
From our perch on the River Villa in the late afternoon, we saw these elephants crossing the water
Once the golden hour approached and the sun began to set, the ambience became infused with enchantment as the clouds turned candyfloss pink. Just after the sun disappeared below the horizon, a small herd of elephants with two tiny calves quietly splashed across the water channel upstream. It was a moment to savour, to breathe in deeply and be gratefully conscious of how immersed in nature we were.
By then we had the braai going and were sipping a gin and tonic from the bar. We had a choice of gin, brandy, whisky, vodka, cognac, beers and quality wines. With kebabs and steaks already marinated and ready for the braai, salads for sides, and fruit, cheese and chocolate for dessert, this was one of the easiest braais we’d ever enjoyed.
By then we had the braai going and were sipping a gin and tonic from the bar. We had a choice of gin, brandy, whisky, vodka, cognac, beers and quality wines. With kebabs and steaks already marinated and ready for the braai, salads for sides, and fruit, cheese and chocolate for dessert, this was one of the easiest braais we’d ever enjoyed.
The lower deck at sunset
As it got dark, we could just make out the lights of the main lodge twinkling behind us in the distance so we didn’t feel entirely cut off. We had a two-way radio to call the lodge with any problems we might have, but problems seemed far away from here, where we had the world to ourselves.
African jacana and water lilies
Once night fell, the air was alive with the honking and snuffling of hippos, and we could use the spotlight to illuminate anything interesting. Although it was full moon, the sky was covered in bright stars so I can only imagine how much more impressive the night skies must be on nights of little or no moon.
We slept peacefully, wrapped in our cocoon of nature, and woke at dawn to a grubby red layer on the horizon. Gradually, it pinkened and a huge crimson sun climbed low into the sky, shakily reflected on the water ripples. Lesser striped swallows flitted to the railing of the upper deck. We listened to geese and watched a pied kingfisher hover and plunge to the water in search of fish. A fish-eagle called out to its mate from its perch on a tree – the perfect African morning wake-up call.
We slept peacefully, wrapped in our cocoon of nature, and woke at dawn to a grubby red layer on the horizon. Gradually, it pinkened and a huge crimson sun climbed low into the sky, shakily reflected on the water ripples. Lesser striped swallows flitted to the railing of the upper deck. We listened to geese and watched a pied kingfisher hover and plunge to the water in search of fish. A fish-eagle called out to its mate from its perch on a tree – the perfect African morning wake-up call.
View from the upstairs deck
Game drive into Bwabwata National Park
That afternoon, we went for a guided game drive into Bwabwata National Park. It’s a massive park, more than 6200 square kilometres, bordering with Botswana in the south and Angola in the north. Among an attractive mix of trees like Zambezi teak, camel thorn, jackalberry, sausage tree and knobthorn acacia, you can hope to see animals like elephant, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, rare antelope like roan, tsessebe and sable, as well as red lechwe, sitatunga and common reedbuck. If you’re lucky, you might see predators like lion, leopard or spotted hyena.
Our game drive started with a short boat trip to get to the open game drive vehicles parked on the Bwabwata side of the water channel. Just minutes after we set out, there were roan antelope running across the track ahead. It was a fleeting sighting because these animals are very shy. As if they know their populations are decreasing and they need to protect themselves, they just melted into the bush.
That afternoon, we went for a guided game drive into Bwabwata National Park. It’s a massive park, more than 6200 square kilometres, bordering with Botswana in the south and Angola in the north. Among an attractive mix of trees like Zambezi teak, camel thorn, jackalberry, sausage tree and knobthorn acacia, you can hope to see animals like elephant, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, rare antelope like roan, tsessebe and sable, as well as red lechwe, sitatunga and common reedbuck. If you’re lucky, you might see predators like lion, leopard or spotted hyena.
Our game drive started with a short boat trip to get to the open game drive vehicles parked on the Bwabwata side of the water channel. Just minutes after we set out, there were roan antelope running across the track ahead. It was a fleeting sighting because these animals are very shy. As if they know their populations are decreasing and they need to protect themselves, they just melted into the bush.
Burchell's or plains zebra
When we spotted a mixed group of impalas, kudu and warthog, a young German couple in our vehicle – on their very first safari – got over-excited, cameras clicking crazily as guide Aldrin explained that impalas can extend their pregnancy by one to three months if there’s a drought. Luckily for the impalas, the Namibian drought (which hit Etosha National Park really badly in 2019) didn’t seem so bad here further north-east; there was still plenty of rain water in natural depressions and lots of grass for grazers.
We enjoyed a feast of birds like hamerkop, pied kingfisher, little and swallow-tailed bee-eaters at one of the waterholes, and found a big herd of buffalo resting in the shade on what was a sweltering afternoon.
We enjoyed a feast of birds like hamerkop, pied kingfisher, little and swallow-tailed bee-eaters at one of the waterholes, and found a big herd of buffalo resting in the shade on what was a sweltering afternoon.
Little bee-eater
And then at last a herd of elephants. As the vehicle approached, zebras nearby got spooked into a short stampede, kicking up dust and making elephant calves run to their mothers where they were snuffling and digging for salt in a dry pan.
It was the first of many elephant sightings, but Horseshoe Bend was the highlight. Three different herds came and went – probably about 150 individuals in all – while we sipped gin and tonics under a jackalberry tree. One of the little ones entertained itself with fun on the ‘beach’ next to the river, collapsing its legs and rolling in the sand, then struggling back to its feet, walking two steps and going through the whole collapse-roll-struggle rigmarole again, on a continuous loop.
It was the first of many elephant sightings, but Horseshoe Bend was the highlight. Three different herds came and went – probably about 150 individuals in all – while we sipped gin and tonics under a jackalberry tree. One of the little ones entertained itself with fun on the ‘beach’ next to the river, collapsing its legs and rolling in the sand, then struggling back to its feet, walking two steps and going through the whole collapse-roll-struggle rigmarole again, on a continuous loop.
Elephants at Horshoe Bend, Bwabwata National Park
On our way back to the boat we saw more buffaloes, wildebeest, over a dozen hippos on a bend of the river as the sunlight softened. Best of all was a large herd of mature sable antelope with lot of fawn-coloured young ones who didn’t yet have a glimmer of horn.
Soon Aldrin pulled up short, leaning out the side of the car. He saw fresh leopard tracks, he said. We reversed, drove in a small circle into the bush, but came up empty handed. I wondered if he’d made it up for a thrill at the end of the drive when attention was flagging after the excitement of elephants and buffaloes and sables.
Soon Aldrin pulled up short, leaning out the side of the car. He saw fresh leopard tracks, he said. We reversed, drove in a small circle into the bush, but came up empty handed. I wondered if he’d made it up for a thrill at the end of the drive when attention was flagging after the excitement of elephants and buffaloes and sables.
Sable antelope
Then he spotted lion tracks. Again, I wondered if it was a ploy but I was in the middle seat and couldn’t lean out to see for myself. Again we circled into the bush and back to the track. Then 500m ahead there they were, two big males. The German first-timers went nuts and had to be gently shushed.
Two lions just before dark ended the game drive on a high
We followed the lions for a while, revelling in being so close to such majestic Big Cats. Sadly, it was getting dark and we had to be out of the national park and back at camp, but what a way to end a game drive.
Things to do at Namushasha River Villa
Join a guided game drive
Don’t miss a Namibia safari into Bwabwata National Park. The Namushasha River Villa package includes either a guided game drive or a boat cruise for two (see below). But since you get transported to the River Villa by boat anyway, if you only have time for one activity my choice would definitely be a game drive, for a chance to see elephants at Horseshoe Bend, antelope like roan and sable, and maybe even lions. You can read more about our experience above.
Things to do at Namushasha River Villa
Join a guided game drive
Don’t miss a Namibia safari into Bwabwata National Park. The Namushasha River Villa package includes either a guided game drive or a boat cruise for two (see below). But since you get transported to the River Villa by boat anyway, if you only have time for one activity my choice would definitely be a game drive, for a chance to see elephants at Horseshoe Bend, antelope like roan and sable, and maybe even lions. You can read more about our experience above.
Elephants with small calves are endlessly entertaining
Enjoy a boat cruise
If you’re staying at the Namushasha River Villa, you’ll get a short boat ride there from Namushasha River Lodge when you arrive. But if you really love being on the water, you can also hop onto one of the river boats for an early morning or late afternoon boat cruise to explore the river channels, find animals like hippo and crocodile, waterbuck and lechwe. The area is rich in birdlife too, and you’ll almost certainly see species like bee-eaters, kingfishers, jacana and fish-eagle, perhaps even wattled crane or African skimmer.
Watch the sunrise and sunset
Sunrises and sunsets in Namibia’s Zambezi region are spectacular, so wake early to see the dawn colours unfurl in the sky. The Namushasha River Villa is perfectly situated to enjoy the sunset from either the upper or lower decks. Set yourself up with a glass of something cold, watch birds fly in silhouette against the setting sun, breathe deeply and enjoy the spectacular swirls of changing light and colour.
If you’re staying at the Namushasha River Villa, you’ll get a short boat ride there from Namushasha River Lodge when you arrive. But if you really love being on the water, you can also hop onto one of the river boats for an early morning or late afternoon boat cruise to explore the river channels, find animals like hippo and crocodile, waterbuck and lechwe. The area is rich in birdlife too, and you’ll almost certainly see species like bee-eaters, kingfishers, jacana and fish-eagle, perhaps even wattled crane or African skimmer.
Watch the sunrise and sunset
Sunrises and sunsets in Namibia’s Zambezi region are spectacular, so wake early to see the dawn colours unfurl in the sky. The Namushasha River Villa is perfectly situated to enjoy the sunset from either the upper or lower decks. Set yourself up with a glass of something cold, watch birds fly in silhouette against the setting sun, breathe deeply and enjoy the spectacular swirls of changing light and colour.
Don't miss the sunrises and sunsets from the Namushasha River Villa
See wildlife around the River Villa
Namushasha River Villa is an ideal place to sit still and soak up your surroundings. Anchored among the reeds on the fringes of the water, it will provide you with many opportunities to enjoy water lilies and bird life. Given that you look out across the water channel onto the Bwabwata National Park, you may even see big game like elephant and antelope on the other side as you enjoy your mug of coffee upstairs, or your braai and beer on the lower deck.
Go fishing
Keen to catch catfish, tilapia or tigerfish? Then join a guided fishing trip that starts from Namushasha River Lodge and lets you spend a few hours on the water doing what you enjoy. You can get a fishing licence at the lodge too.
Visit the Namushasha Heritage Centre
Don’t miss a visit to the Namushasha Heritage Centre that celebrates the cultural diversity of the eastern Zambezi region, especially local people like the Mashi, Hambukushu, Balozi and Mafwe. Take a walk from Namushasha River Lodge through the lush campsite and along a riverside trail. If another group is already there you might hear drumming and singing as you approach. You’ll find a buzzing little place set out under a giant baobab, where you can learn about traditional skills and crafts like tool making, wood carving, basketry, hear about some of the plants they use for food and medicine, and watch a lively display of singing and dancing.
Namushasha River Villa is an ideal place to sit still and soak up your surroundings. Anchored among the reeds on the fringes of the water, it will provide you with many opportunities to enjoy water lilies and bird life. Given that you look out across the water channel onto the Bwabwata National Park, you may even see big game like elephant and antelope on the other side as you enjoy your mug of coffee upstairs, or your braai and beer on the lower deck.
Go fishing
Keen to catch catfish, tilapia or tigerfish? Then join a guided fishing trip that starts from Namushasha River Lodge and lets you spend a few hours on the water doing what you enjoy. You can get a fishing licence at the lodge too.
Visit the Namushasha Heritage Centre
Don’t miss a visit to the Namushasha Heritage Centre that celebrates the cultural diversity of the eastern Zambezi region, especially local people like the Mashi, Hambukushu, Balozi and Mafwe. Take a walk from Namushasha River Lodge through the lush campsite and along a riverside trail. If another group is already there you might hear drumming and singing as you approach. You’ll find a buzzing little place set out under a giant baobab, where you can learn about traditional skills and crafts like tool making, wood carving, basketry, hear about some of the plants they use for food and medicine, and watch a lively display of singing and dancing.
Learn about local culture and traditions at the Namushasha Heritage Centre
How to experience this for yourself
The Namushasha River Villa is part of the Gondwana Collection’s exclusive Secret Collection, and it has to be said that for this level of sophistication and exclusivity (with all food, drinks and a game drive or boat cruise thrown in for good measure), this experience doesn’t come cheap. But if you’re celebrating a special occasion and looking for a romantic treat-for-two that you’ll never forget (think marriage proposal or special anniversary), there’s good news.
If you’d like to get a fat discount, get yourself a Gondwana Card. Pay R200/N$200 for a card that’s valid for five years and Namibians get a whopping 50% off their accommodation bill, while visitors from SADC countries get a hearty 40% off. In addition, there’s 25% off all activities and meals (although your meals on the Namushasha River Villa and one activity are already included in your accommodation package). These discounts also apply to the Gondwana Collection’s nearly 40 properties around Namibia, almost all of which are priced much lower than this premium experience. How’s that for a deal?
Note: We were guests of Namushasha River Villa for one night, but I had free rein to write what I chose. We paid for all travel costs.
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The Namushasha River Villa is part of the Gondwana Collection’s exclusive Secret Collection, and it has to be said that for this level of sophistication and exclusivity (with all food, drinks and a game drive or boat cruise thrown in for good measure), this experience doesn’t come cheap. But if you’re celebrating a special occasion and looking for a romantic treat-for-two that you’ll never forget (think marriage proposal or special anniversary), there’s good news.
If you’d like to get a fat discount, get yourself a Gondwana Card. Pay R200/N$200 for a card that’s valid for five years and Namibians get a whopping 50% off their accommodation bill, while visitors from SADC countries get a hearty 40% off. In addition, there’s 25% off all activities and meals (although your meals on the Namushasha River Villa and one activity are already included in your accommodation package). These discounts also apply to the Gondwana Collection’s nearly 40 properties around Namibia, almost all of which are priced much lower than this premium experience. How’s that for a deal?
Note: We were guests of Namushasha River Villa for one night, but I had free rein to write what I chose. We paid for all travel costs.
Like it? Pin this image!
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
Game drive in Bwabwata National Park, Namibia
Lodges in Namibia: Zambezi Mubala Lodge, Zambezi (Caprivi)
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Copyright © Roxanne Reid - No words or photographs on this site may be used without permission from roxannereid.co.za
